Numbuzin No.9 NAD+ Retinol Volumetox Eye Cream VS AHC Beauty Firming

Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
Emollient, helping to soften skin
Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a peptide composed of amino acids arginine and tyrosine.

This peptide is considered a neurotransmitter peptide, meaning it has pain-relieving and relaxing properties. It has the ability to calm skin irritation from external factors such as chemical stinging or heat.

Neurotransmitter peptides are also often called "botox in a bottle". This is because these peptides have the ability to relax the muscles.

Though relaxing the muscles can prevent expression lines (as we have seen in botox), the studies do not show these peptides to be a botox replacement. The effects of this muscle relaxation is also short-term, as opposed to longer-term results from botox.

Learn more about Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, commonly known as Argireline or Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, is a popular peptide in skincare. It’s often referred to as a “Botox-like” ingredient because it helps reduce muscle movement.

By relaxing these micro-movements, Argireline may help minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. That said, it’s not as powerful as Botox, and research on its long-term effectiveness is still limited.

Beyond smoothing, Argireline may also support collagen production. Collagen is the protein that helps keep your skin firm, bouncy, and well-hydrated by strengthening the skin barrier.

So while Argireline isn’t a miracle fix, it can be a helpful addition to a routine focused on both prevention and skin health.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is a synthetic peptide also commonly known as SNAP-8. It is a lab-made peptide often marketed as a gentler, topical alternative to Botox.

It works by mimicking part of a protein involved in muscle contractions, which may help relax facial tension and reduce the appearance of fine lines (mostly around the eyes and forehead).

It’s considered a “next-gen” version of Argireline (Acetyl Hexapeptide-8), an older peptide with more research behind it that also supports collagen production.

SNAP-8 showed slightly better results than Argireline in one small manufacturer-funded study, but there’s limited independent research. Plus, most tests use concentrations higher than what’s typically found in skincare products.

This ingredient might offer a subtle smoothing effect but it won't don’t deliver the dramatic results of actual Botox injections.

Think of it more like a supporting actor in your skincare lineup.

Learn more about Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Skin Conditioning

This peptide is more commonly known as Thymulen 4 BG.

It is derived from a youth hormone called thymopoietin. Thymopoietin helps regulate the immune system and decreases naturally with age.

According to the manufacturer, this peptide boosts the skin's immune defenses and regenerates the outer layers of skin.

Learn more about Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Skin Protecting

This biometic peptide is designed to support hair growth.

According to a manufacturer, it stimulates hair growth by:

The manufacturer has found combining this ingredient with red clover extract (Capixyl) boosted benefits. Not only does it enforce the scalp's extracellular matrix, it also inhibits the enzyme that creates DHT, a hormone that leads to hair loss.

While this ingredient is promising, more research is still needed to confirm its full effectiveness.

Learn more about Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9 is a signal peptide. Signal peptides tell your skin to create collagen or start tissue repair.

This peptide plays a role in key skin components such as collagen, lumican, and glycosaminoglycans (GAGs). Lumican is used in collagen organization and regulation, while GAGs are a component that holds water in our skin.

The manufacturer claims this ingredient is effective at firming the skin and enhancing skin hydration.

Learn more about Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.

Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.

In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.

Learn more about Adenosine

Butylene Glycol

Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is an effective skin hydrator and emollient.

Emollients help soothe and soften your skin. It does this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated. Emollients may be effective at treating dry or itchy skin.

Shea butter is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals, or molecules that may harm the body. It is also full of fatty acids including stearic acid and linoleic acid. These acids help replenish the skin and keep skin moisturized.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

Shea butter may not be fungal acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is an emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.

It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.

Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Ceramide NP

Skin Conditioning

Ceramide NP is a type of ceramide.

Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin.

Ceramides are an important building block for our skin barrier. A stronger barrier helps the skin look more firm and hydrated. By bolstering the skin ceramides act as a barrier against irritating ingredients. This can help with inflammation as well.

If you would like to eat ceramides, sweet potatoes contain a small amount.

Read more about other common types of ceramides here:
Ceramide AP
Ceramide EOP

Learn more about Ceramide NP

Cetyl Alcohol

Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.

The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

Learn more about Cetyl Alcohol

Cholesterol

Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Cholesterol is a class of organic molecules called lipids. It helps hydrate your skin and is essential to having a healthy skin barrier.

Our skin naturally contains cholesterol in the outermost layer. Besides cholesterol, it also contains ceramides and fatty acids. Cholesterol makes up about 1/4 of your skin's outer layer and barrier. Your skin barrier is responsible for keeping allergens and microbes out. Having a healthy skin barrier is also responsible for keeping your skin firm and plump.

Our bodies use cholestrol to create vitamin D, steroid hormones, and more.

Learn more about Cholesterol

Citrulline

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Citrulline yet.

Cocos Nucifera Oil

Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

Cocos Nucifera Oil is obtained from the kernels of the coconut fruit. In other words, this is coconut oil.

Coconut Oil is rich in fatty acids with lauric acid making up the majority of these. It also contains linoleic acid. Due to this high fatty acid content, coconut oil helps trap moisture and soften skin.

Despite being antibacterial, coconut oil may not be great for acne-prone skin. It is comedogenic and may clog pores. This ingredient may not be safe for malassezia or fungal acne.

Note: Coconut Oil should not replace your sunscreen for UV protection. Studies show it only blocks about 20% of UV.

This oil is non-volatile and has a light scent.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Cocos Nucifera Oil

Copper Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning

Copper Tripeptide-1 (GHK-Cu) is a skin repairing ingredient known for its ability to boost collagen, improve firmness, and support skin regeneration.

It is a complex made up of a naturally occurring peptide (glycine-histidine-lysine) and copper, an essential trace element.

While studying wound healing, researchers noticed GHK-Cu stimulated hair follicle enlargement and growth by keeping hair in its active growth phase longer. This has made it a promising ingredient for hair regrowth treatments.

Some people have reported increased facial hair. While GHK-Cu can make your hair follicles bigger, it usually doesn’t turn soft, barely-visible facial hairs into thick, dark ones.

Anecdotal reports suggest that overusing copper peptides might lead to premature aging due to excess free copper or enzyme imbalances. This claim isn’t backed by large-scale studies.

Unfortunately, there are limited human studies for this ingredient. While early results are promising, many studies are either small, in-vitro, or not rigorously controlled.

For example, there is a 1998 study that explored the effects of copper tripeptide, vitamin C, tretinoin, and melatonin on skin repair and collagen synthesis.

After one month, increased procollagen production was seen in 7 out of 10 participants using copper tripeptide (more than those using vitamin C, melatonin, or tretinoin.

While the study was exploratory, it offers early evidence that copper tripeptide may support collagen production. Larger, well-designed trials are still needed to confirm its potential and understand individual responses.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Copper Tripeptide-1

Cyclohexasiloxane

Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.

Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.

As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.

Learn more about Cyclohexasiloxane

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is a silicone used to improve the texture of products and absorb oil. It does not get absorbed into the skin.

Like other silicones, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer helps condition the skin by creating a barrier. In this sense, it can act as an emollient and trap moisture in.

This ingredient is a type of elastomer.

Learn more about Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Skin Conditioning

This small molecule peptide has similar benefits to Argireline, the "botox" peptide.

According to the manufacturer, this peptide mimics snake venom to freeze muscles. This prevents muscle movement and contractions to prohibit the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.

While this seems promising, research is lacking in proving this ingredient to be as effective as botox.

Learn more about Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate

Dipeptide-2

Skin Conditioning

Dipeptide-2 is a peptide. It can help to reduce the effects of aging.

Dipeptide-4

Skin Conditioning

Dipeptide-4 is a peptide.

Disodium EDTA

Disodium EDTA plays a role in making products more stable by aiding other preservatives.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it neutralizes metal ions that may be found in a product.

Disodium EDTA is a salt of edetic acid and is found to be safe in cosmetic ingredients.

Learn more about Disodium EDTA

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin (we can't pronounce this either) is commonly used as a preservative and skin softener. It is derived from glyceryl.

You might see Ethylhexylglycerin often paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol. Ethylhexylglycerin has been found to increase the effectiveness of these other preservatives.

Glycerin

Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

A study from 2016 found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.

As a humectant, it helps the skin stay hydrated by pulling moisture to your skin. The low molecular weight of glycerin allows it to pull moisture into the deeper layers of your skin.

Hydrated skin improves your skin barrier; Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.

Glycerin has also been found to have antimicrobial and antiviral properties. Due to these properties, glycerin is often used in wound and burn treatments.

In cosmetics, glycerin is usually derived from plants such as soybean or palm. However, it can also be sourced from animals, such as tallow or animal fat.

This ingredient is organic, colorless, odorless, and non-toxic.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin

Hexapeptide-9

Skin Conditioning

Hexapeptide-9 is a peptide.

Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning

Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in healthy skin. It is a humectant, meaning it draws moisture to your skin.

This ingredient helps hydrate, soothe, and protect the skin.

What makes hyaluronic acid so hydrating? It has the capacity to bind or hold large amounts of water.

Fun fact: It is already naturally found in our bodies, such as the fluids of our eyes and our joints.

Studies find this ingredient to have anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties. This can help speed up wound-healing.

Hyaluronic acid can be irritating if the molecule has a low-molecular weight, or if the molecules are small.

One study found low-molecular weight hyaluronic acid to be pro-inflammatory, meaning some people may experience irritation. This is because our bodies use hyaluronic acid in the wound-healing process to signal to our bodies, via irritation, that something needs healing.

The same study found high-molecular weight hyaluronic acid to be anti-inflammatory.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Hyaluronic Acid

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is created from the hydrogenation of lecithin (a group of phospholipids). Hydrogenation is a chemical reaction between hydrogen and another element.

This ingredient is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps soften skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a form of hyaluronic acid. It is created by the hydrolysis of hyaluronic acid with a high molecular weight. Once created, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid has a low molecular weight.

Low molecular weight HA has been shown to hydrate and increase elasticity of the skin. Increasing elasticity is also associated with reduction of wrinkle depth.

One study found topical low molecular weight hyaluronic acid may be considered for the treatment of rosacea in the adult population. However, we always recommend speaking with a professional about your skin concerns.

Hyaluronic acids are a humectant. This means they draw moisture from the air. Hyaluronic acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.

Read more about other common forms of hyaluronic acid:

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Hydroxyacetophenone

Antioxidant

Hydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.

This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing.

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Emollient

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil is the fixed oil obtained from Macadamia nut.

Macadamia seed oil is rich in fatty acids, including oleic acid (45-75%), palmitoleic acid (7-33%), and palmitic acid (6-12%). They also contain various B vitamins, iron, and magnesium.

Palmitoleic acid has been shown to help soothe inflammation and promote wound healing. It is also naturally found in the fat of our skin.

Macadamia seed oil may not be malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne, safe.

Learn more about Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Methylpropanediol

Solvent

Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.

As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.

Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.

Learn more about Methylpropanediol

Niacinamide

Smoothing

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Learn more about Niacinamide

Nonapeptide-1

Skin Conditioning

Nonapeptide-1 is created from amino acids including arginine and lysine.

It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.

Emerging studies show Nonapeptide-1 to help with reducing pigmentation and brightening the skin. It has shown to prevent the activation of tyrosinase, an enzyme in the skin that begins the process of melanin creation. Melanin is responsible for giving skin a tan or dark spots.

Learn more about Nonapeptide-1

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 is a synthetic peptide made with glycine, histidine, lysine, and palmitic acid.

The sequence of this peptide matches that of elastin, a key protein that plays a role in how firm our skin is.

Due to its palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Skin Conditioning

You might know this ingredients as Matrixyl, a famous peptide.

Peptides are building blocks for protein. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 consists of five amino acids. These amino acids include: 2 lysines, 2 threonines, and serine

This ingredients tells our body to create more collagen. Collagen is a protein that makes connective tissue. Boosting collagen production leads to a healthier skin barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier means having firm and hydrated skin.

Thus, Matrixyl may help improve the look of wrinkles.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 (formerly Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is a lab-made peptide with anti-inflammatory and skin-repairing benefits. It's made up of four amino acids (glycine, glutamine, proline, and arginine) and palmitic acid (which helps it penetrate skin more effectively).

This ingredient helps reduce inflammation by limiting the production of interleukin-6 (IL-6), a chemical that triggers inflammatory responses, particularly after UV exposure.

Less inflammation = slower collagen breakdown and a longer-lasting, youthful appearance.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 also stimulates collagen production and supports a healthier skin barrier.

Over time, this can improve skin firmness, hydration, and reduce the appearance of fine lines. It’s commonly paired with Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex for enhanced anti-aging effects.

This ingredient has been shown to be effective and safe in cosmetic use and you'll typically find it in small amounts (less than 0.01%).

Due to its palmitic acid base, it may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is also known as pal-GHK. It is made up of 3 amino acids and palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.

This peptide is as a signal peptide, meaning it tells the skin to produce more collagen. Collagen is the key protein that helps form the skin's structure and keep it plump, firm, and hydrated.

By boosting collagen production, this ingredient supports a stronger skin barrier and helps reduce the appearance of wrinkles.

You'll most likely see this ingredient paired with Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 in the well-known Matrixyl 3000 complex. While results from in-house testing should be viewed cautiously, this peptide duo is among the most studied and widely used in modern skincare.

Due to its palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be safe for Malassezia folliculitis.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Skin Conditioning

This synthetic peptide is created from lysine, valine, and palmitic acid.

According to the manufacturer, in-vitro studies show tissue growth and collagen synthesis. Another in-vivo study found 60 volunteers saw a significant reduction in wrinkles after 84 days.

Due to its palmitic acid base, this peptide may not be fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5

Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate yet.

Polyacrylate-13

Polyacrylate-13 is a type of acrylate polymer. Acrylate polymers are commonly used as adhesives in cosmetics.

Polyacrylate-13 creates a film to protect the skin. It is also used to thicken and stabilize a product. It works by making water a gel-like consistency. This gel consistency helps suspend particles.

Polyacrylate-13 is a copolymer of acrylic acid, acrylamide, sodium acrylate, sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate monomers

Learn more about Polyacrylate-13

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Skin Conditioning

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier. It helps gather dirt, oil, and other pollutants to be rinsed away. As an emulsifier, it helps prevent ingredients from separating, such as oil and water.

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Emulsifying

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.

Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.

As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.

Learn more about Potassium Cetyl Phosphate

Propanediol

Solvent

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Learn more about Propanediol

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Skin Conditioning

sh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

Studies find EGF help with:

In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.

According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:

There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Learn more about Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

This peptide has similar properties to Sh-Oligopeptide-1.

In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.

There is also controversy surrounding EGF. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.

Learn more about Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Skin Conditioning

Sh-Polypeptide-1 is a signal peptide that tells our cells to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-11

Sh-Polypeptide-11 is a signal protein that tells our skin to create more fibroblast cells. Fibroblasts maintain skin structure and plays a role in wound healing.

It is important to note this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sh-Polypeptide-16

Skin Protecting

Sh-Polypeptide-16 is a peptide.

Sh-Polypeptide-22

Skin Conditioning

Peptides are amino acids naturally found in your skin. These amino acids make up many proteins your skin uses. Collagen is made up of peptides. Collagen is responsible for keeping your skin plump and youthful.

As you age, your body naturally produces less collagen. Since peptides are the building blocks of collagen, it may have anti-aging effects.

Sh-Polypeptide-3

Skin Conditioning

Sh-Polypeptide-3 is a peptide.

Sh-Polypeptide-9

Skin Conditioning

Sh-Polypeptide-9 is a signal peptide that tells our body to create more blood vessels.

It is important to note, this ingredient is mitogenic and not mutagenic. Meaning it will stimulate cell multiplication, and will not cause cancer.

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid's salt form. It is commonly derived from the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

Like hyaluronic acid, it is great at holding water and acts as a humectant. This makes it a great skin hydrating ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate is naturally occurring in our bodies and is mostly found in eye fluid and joints.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate

Sorbitan Isostearate

Emulsifying

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer and cleaning agent. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, Sorbitan Isostearate prevents oils and water from separating.

Due to its isostearic acid base, it may not be safe for Malassezia or fungal acne.

Learn more about Sorbitan Isostearate

Stearic Acid

Cleansing, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid. It is an emollient, emulsifier, and texture enhancer.

As an emollient, stearic acid helps soften skin. It aids the skin's protective barrier by preventing water loss. It also provides a gentle cleansing effect without stripping away natural oils.

Stearic acid may also be used to enhance the texture of products. It can add volume and stabilize ingredients such as water and oil. This can help water and oil ingredients from separating.

Sources of stearic acid include animal or vegetable fats/oils such as coconut or shea. It can be naturally found in butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, vegetable fats, and animal tallow.

This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Stearic Acid

Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Tripeptide-1, also known as GHK), is a small, three-amino-acid peptide made up of glycine, histidine, and lysine.

This ingredient is a signal peptide and tell your skin to start producing fresh collagen, elastin, and other key structural proteins. This helps maintain firmness and reduces the look of fine-lines/wrinkles.

GHK is also unique because is also acts as a carrier peptide. It binds to and transports copper ions (forming the complex GHK-Cu). This form has been studied for decades and is known to stimulate wound healing, boost antioxidant defenses, and promote collagen/elastin synthesis.

In-vitro studies show both GHK and GHK-CU increase fibroblast activity that enhances the production of collagen, elastin, fibronectin, and other extracellular matrix components.

Both of these compounds also help balance enzymes that control collagen breakdown.

Human studies (in-vivo) using GHK-Cu creams have reported visible improvements to skin density, elasticity, and wrinkle depth after several weeks of use.

A small clinical study also found topical collagen tripeptide improved wrinkle appearance and skin elasticity in women after four weeks.

While these results are promising, most research is based on GHK-Cu or its derivatives rather than Tripeptide-1 alone (Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a famous derivative of GHK). However, the consensus still supports GHK as a potent skin-signaling molecule that can encourage regeneration and maintain youthful looking skin.

Fun fact: GHK is a naturally occurring fragment of type 1 collagen that can be found in human plasma, saliva, and urine.

Learn more about Tripeptide-1

Tromethamine

Buffering, Masking

Tromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.

As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.

Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.

1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-

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Vinyldimethicone

Vinyldimethicone is a type of silicone.

Water

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water