AHC Beauty Firming Ten Revolution Real Eye Cream For Face Versus Goodal Green Tangerine Vita C Dark Circle Eye Cream
This anti-aging eye moisturizer is formulated around Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract and Bifida Ferment Lysate to soften the look of wrinkles and hydrate skin.
This brightening eye moisturizer is formulated around Niacinamide and Arbutin to fade the look of dark spots and brighten dull-looking skin.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract
Skin Protecting
Glycerin
Humectant
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin Conditioning
Hydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
Smoothing
Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Emulsifying
Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Betaine
Humectant
Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Ficus Carica Fruit Extract
Humectant
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin Conditioning
Oryza Sativa Extract
Absorbent
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Emollient
Collagen Extract
Skin Conditioning
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Humectant
Acmella Oleracea Extract
Skin ProtectingGossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningSolanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
Antioxidant
Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract
EmollientLepidium Meyenii Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSalicornia Herbacea Extract
Skin ConditioningCinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract
Antimicrobial
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
Antioxidant
Pancratium Maritimum Extract
BleachingNymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningTriticum Aestivum Peptide
Skin Conditioning
Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Cocos Nucifera Oil
Masking
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Emollient
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Soluble Collagen
Humectant
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Masking
Oryza Sativa Germ Oil
Emollient
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Methylpropanediol
SolventPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin Conditioning
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning
Polyacrylate-13
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingBehenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin Conditioning
Vinyldimethicone
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
AntimicrobialHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientAllantoin
Skin Conditioning
Glycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingPanthenol
Skin Conditioning
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin Conditioning
Raffinose
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
Emollient
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Disodium EDTA
Micrococcus Lysate
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Lecithin
Emollient
Propanediol
Solvent
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Polyquaternium-51
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Laurate
CleansingInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingLauric Acid
Cleansing
Cyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingHuman Tooth Pulp Stem Cell Conditioned Media
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
Emollient
Collagen Water
Humectant
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Biosaccharide Gum-1
Humectant
Xylitylglucoside
Humectant
Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Humectant
Anhydroxylitol
Humectant
Xylitol
Humectant
Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen
Cleansing
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Glycolipids
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Laurate
Emulsifying
Glucose
Humectant
Sodium Palmitoyl Proline
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Glycine
CleansingPotassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen
Skin Conditioning
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Hexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingSqualane
Emollient
Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingHydrolyzed Lupine Protein
Skin ConditioningCollagen
Moisturising
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate
Skin ProtectingTetrahydropiperine
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid Polypeptide
Antioxidant
Collagen Amino Acids
Moisturising
Mannitol
Humectant
Lactic Acid
Buffering
Sarcosine
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin Conditioning
Saccharide Hydrolysate
HumectantHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningCetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin Conditioning
Rutin
Antioxidant
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientLactobacillus Ferment
Skin Conditioning
Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
Humectant
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin Conditioning
Alanine
Masking
Arginine
Masking
Asparagine
MaskingAspartic Acid
Masking
Citrulline
Skin ConditioningCysteine
Antioxidant
Glutamic Acid
Humectant
Glutamine
Skin ConditioningGlycine
Buffering
Histidine
Humectant
Isoleucine
Skin ConditioningLeucine
Skin ConditioningLysine
Skin ConditioningMethionine
Skin ConditioningOrnithine
Skin ConditioningPhenylalanine
Masking
Proline
Skin Conditioning
Serine
Masking
Taurine
BufferingThreonine
Tryptophan
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingValine
MaskingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17
Skin Conditioning
Capryloyl Dipeptide-17
Emollient
Acetyl Glutamine
Skin ConditioningHeptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12
Skin Conditioning
Dipotassium Phosphate
BufferingHyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Potassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningPantothenic Acid
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Humectant
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant
Gluconolactone
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
Emollient
Glycine Soja Peptide
Skin Conditioning
Saccharomyces Polypeptides
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol
HumectantStearic Acid
Cleansing
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Humectant
Atelocollagen
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Capryloyl Sh-Nonapeptide-6
Skin Conditioning
R-Bovine Polypeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Avena Sativa Peptide
Skin Conditioning
Glycine Max Polypeptide
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Humectant
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Skin Conditioning
Calcium Gluconate
HumectantDipeptide-2
Skin Conditioning
Copper Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin Protecting
Acetyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Nonapeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5
Humectant
Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Hexapeptide-2
Bleaching
Hexapeptide-9
Skin Conditioning
Tripeptide-2
Skin Conditioning
Dipeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Pentapeptide-3
Skin Conditioning
Tripeptide-3
Skin Conditioning
Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl
Skin Conditioning
Dipeptide-4
Skin Conditioning
Oligopeptide-6
Skin Conditioning
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning
Biotin
AntiseborrhoeicAscorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Riboflavin
Cosmetic ColorantThiamine Hcl
MaskingFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningPyridoxine
Skin ConditioningMenadione
MaskingMyristic Acid
Cleansing
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Polypeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Polypeptide-3
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Polypeptide-4
Antioxidant
Sh-Polypeptide-9
Skin Conditioning
Sh-Polypeptide-11
Sh-Polypeptide-14
Skin Protecting
Sh-Polypeptide-16
Skin Protecting
Sh-Polypeptide-22
Skin Conditioning
Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 80
Emulsifying
Hydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Parfum
Masking
Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Water, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Pentaerythrityl Stearate/Caprate/Caprylate/Adipate, Cetyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Betaine, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lycium Chinense Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Collagen Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Acmella Oleracea Extract, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Persea Gratissima Fruit Extract, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Salicornia Herbacea Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Pancratium Maritimum Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Triticum Aestivum Peptide, Phaseolus Lunatus Seed Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Soluble Collagen, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Oryza Sativa Germ Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Methylpropanediol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylate-13, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Behenyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Vinyldimethicone, Butylene Glycol, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Allantoin, Glycosyl Trehalose, Panthenol, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Xanthan Gum, Adenosine, Raffinose, Cholesterol, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Disodium EDTA, Micrococcus Lysate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Lecithin, Propanediol, Ceramide NP, Polyquaternium-51, Sodium Laurate, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Lauric Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Tromethamine, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Human Tooth Pulp Stem Cell Conditioned Media, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Collagen Water, Tocopheryl Acetate, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Xylitylglucoside, Schizosaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Glycolipids, Sorbitan Laurate, Glucose, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Capryloyl Glycine, Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Maltodextrin, Hexylene Glycol, Squalane, Ascorbyl Propyl Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Collagen, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, Tetrahydropiperine, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Collagen Amino Acids, Mannitol, Lactic Acid, Sarcosine, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Rutin, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Alanine, Arginine, Asparagine, Aspartic Acid, Citrulline, Cysteine, Glutamic Acid, Glutamine, Glycine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Ornithine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Serine, Taurine, Threonine, Tryptophan, Tyrosine, Valine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, 3-Ascorbyl Carbonyl Dipeptide-17, Capryloyl Dipeptide-17, Acetyl Glutamine, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Dipotassium Phosphate, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Pantothenic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Gluconolactone, Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate, Palmitic Acid, Glycine Soja Peptide, Saccharomyces Polypeptides, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Atelocollagen, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Capryloyl Sh-Nonapeptide-6, R-Bovine Polypeptide-1, Avena Sativa Peptide, Glycine Max Polypeptide, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Calcium Gluconate, Dipeptide-2, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Acetyl Tripeptide-1, Nonapeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-2, Hexapeptide-9, Tripeptide-2, Dipeptide-1, Pentapeptide-3, Tripeptide-3, Alanine/Histidine/Lysine Polypeptide Copper Hcl, Dipeptide-4, Oligopeptide-6, Retinyl Palmitate, Biotin, Ascorbic Acid, Riboflavin, Thiamine Hcl, Folic Acid, Pyridoxine, Menadione, Myristic Acid, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-7, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Sh-Polypeptide-4, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Sh-Polypeptide-14, Sh-Polypeptide-16, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Polysorbate 80, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Parfum
Citrus Tangerina Extract
TonicButylene Glycol
Humectant
Glycerin
Humectant
Propanediol
Solvent
Water
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
Emollient
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Arbutin
Antioxidant
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientVinyldimethicone
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide
Antioxidant
Chlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCurcuma Longa Root Extract
Antioxidant
Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCorallina Officinalis Extract
Skin Conditioning
Diglycerin
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride
EmollientMethyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
Emollient
Glucose
Humectant
Dimethiconol
Emollient
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
Antioxidant
Tromethamine
BufferingFructooligosaccharides
Humectant
Fructose
Humectant
Glucosyl Hesperidin
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantAllantoin
Skin Conditioning
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Humectant
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Disodium EDTA
Citrus Tangerina Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Propanediol, Water, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Pentylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Arbutin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Diisostearyl Malate, Vinyldimethicone, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Corallina Officinalis Extract, Diglycerin, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Glucose, Dimethiconol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Tromethamine, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructose, Glucosyl Hesperidin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Allantoin, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Tocopherol, Disodium EDTA
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.
Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:
In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.
The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.
A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.
Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).
Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.
Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic AcidAdenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineAllantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.
Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.
Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.
It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.
Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.
This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.
Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.
Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.
Learn more about AllantoinAscorbic Acid Polypeptide is a stable form of vitamin C that offers the same benefits with less irritation.
Read about the benefits of ascorbic acid here.
Fun fact: Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide has a similar structure to the vitamin C found in fruits.
Learn more about Ascorbic Acid PolypeptideButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Learn more about GlucoseGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydroxyacetophenone is a small phenolic molecule that earns its place in a formulas as an antioxidant and preservative booster.
As a phenol, it is able to neutralize free radicals to protect both the product and the skin from oxidative stress.
Though it can't kill microbes on its own, it works as a good supporting agent when combined with other preservatives like Phenoxyethanol or 1,2-Hexanediol.
This ingredient naturally occurs as piceol in Norwegian spruce needles (~0.4-1.1% dry weight and in cloudberries). Though the cosmetic-grade material is synthesized for purity and consistency.
You'll usually see it used at low levels and suppliers recommend up to 1% added to a water phase.
Safety testing was done at concentrations like 0.05% in SPF products and 0.5% in a Human Repeated Insult Patch Test. The safety evidence is assuring; this ingredient is safe for cosmetics in current use and also holds safety status as a food flavoring as well.
An honest caveat: the "soothing" and "anti-inflammatory" claims come mostly from supplier marketing rather than published clinical trials. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review's own literature search found no useful efficacy studies on this ingredient.
So the antioxidant and preservative-boosting roles are the well supported ones while the calming benefit is plausible but thinly evidenced.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated, low-irritation multitasker that quietly helps a formula stay fresh and stable.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolTromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Learn more about TromethamineVinyldimethicone is a type of silicone.
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
