Hyaluronic Acid
Explained
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
- High-molecular weight HA molecules are too large to penetrate skin so they sit on top of the skin like a soft, water-holding film that hydrates and calms.
- Smaller HA molecules (around 20-300 kDA) can slip past the skin's outer layer and hydrate the deeper levels. They can also help skin cells repair and renew here.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
- Sodium Hyaluronate (slightly smaller in size)
- Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid (lower molecular weight HA)
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