Su:m37 Water-full Time Leap Water Gel Cream
A moisturizer with 153 ingredients, including exfoliants and ceramides.
Overview
What it is
General moisturizer with 153 ingredients that contains ceramides and exfoliants
Cool Features
It is reef safe
Suited For
It has ingredients that are good for anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, scar healing, dark spots and better texture
Free From
It doesn't contain any parabens or sulfates
Fun facts
Su:m37 is from South Korea. This product is used in 3 routines created by our community.
We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.
What's inside
Ingredients List
Water
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialDimethicone
EmollientLactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingSaccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate
HumectantSaccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantLactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningMonascus/Rice Ferment
AntioxidantLactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Water Hyacinth Ferment
Skin ProtectingLactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract
AntioxidantSaccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Unshiu Peel Extract
MaskingCitrus Junos Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMalus Domestica Fruit Extract
AntioxidantMusa Sapientum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCarica Papaya Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDiospyros Kaki Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Persica Fruit Extract
AbrasiveFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantChaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract
AntioxidantEriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract
Skin ConditioningRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentLycium Chinense Fruit Extract
AntioxidantPhaseolus Angularis Seed Extract
AntioxidantPanicum Miliaceum Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningBrassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMorus Bombycis Leaf Extract
SmoothingPerilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
MaskingIpomoea Batatas Extract
Skin ConditioningUndaria Pinnatifida Extract
Skin ConditioningRaphanus Sativus Root Extract
AstringentBrassica Rapa Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningNelumbo Nucifera Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAllium Cepa Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingSesamum Indicum Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningGinkgo Biloba Nut Extract
Skin ConditioningActinidia Polygama Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningGrifola Frondosa Fruiting Body Extract
EmollientPrunus Salicina Fruit Extract
AntioxidantAkebia Quinata Extract
Skin ConditioningCrataegus Cuneata Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Princeps Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSasa Veitchii Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningGlechoma Hederacea Extract
Skin ConditioningAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingEquisetum Arvense Extract
AstringentCassia Tora Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningTaraxacum Officinale Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCarthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningAllium Sativum Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingBeta Vulgaris Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCurcuma Longa Root Extract
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningLentinus Edodes Extract
Skin ConditioningPlantago Major Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCichorium Intybus Root Extract
MaskingPlatycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract
AntioxidantMentha Piperita Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract
AstringentLippia Citriodora Leaf Extract
AstringentRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialOcimum Basilicum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMelissa Officinalis Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSalvia Officinalis Leaf Extract
CleansingThymus Vulgaris Leaf Extract
Skin ProtectingRehmannia Chinensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningLonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningAcer Palmatum Leaf Extract
AntioxidantGeranium Robertianum Extract
AstringentSchizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningTrichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract
Skin ProtectingAnemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCucumis Sativus Extract
Skin ConditioningSpinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCodonopsis Lanceolata Extract
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingAcorus Calamus Root Extract
PerfumingCamellia Japonica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Fruit Extract
AstringentSaussurea Involucrata Extract
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Water
MaskingYeast Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningInonotus Obliquus Extract
Skin ConditioningTricholoma Matsutake Extract
Skin ConditioningCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPinus Sylvestris Leaf Oil
MaskingKluyveromyces Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningTrifolium Pratense Flower Extract
AstringentLactobacillus/Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningBambusa Arundinacea Juice
AbrasiveWine
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
AntioxidantCitrus Limon Peel Extract
EmollientSolanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract
AntioxidantMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientMalachite Extract
AntioxidantCamellia Oleifera Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningTriethylhexanoin
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingPEG-100 Stearate
Dimethiconol
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingPEG-150
HumectantHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTrisodium EDTA
Tromethamine
BufferingPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingJuniperus Virginiana Oil
MaskingCoriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil
MaskingSantalum Album Oil
MaskingLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantifolia Fruit Oil
MaskingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingWater, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Alcohol Denat., Dimethicone, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Squalane, C14-22 Alcohols, Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate, Panthenol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Butylene Glycol, Lactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment Filtrate, Monascus/Rice Ferment, Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate, Saccharomyces/Xylinum/Black Tea Ferment, Lactobacillus/Water Hyacinth Ferment, Lactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment, Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Citrus Junos Fruit Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Extract, Musa Sapientum Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Diospyros Kaki Fruit Extract, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract, Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Phaseolus Angularis Seed Extract, Panicum Miliaceum Seed Extract, Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Morus Bombycis Leaf Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Ipomoea Batatas Extract, Undaria Pinnatifida Extract, Raphanus Sativus Root Extract, Brassica Rapa Leaf Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Root Extract, Allium Cepa Bulb Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract, Actinidia Polygama Fruit Extract, Grifola Frondosa Fruiting Body Extract, Prunus Salicina Fruit Extract, Akebia Quinata Extract, Crataegus Cuneata Fruit Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Artemisia Princeps Leaf Extract, Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract, Glechoma Hederacea Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Cassia Tora Seed Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Leaf Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Allium Sativum Bulb Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Lentinus Edodes Extract, Plantago Major Seed Extract, Cichorium Intybus Root Extract, Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract, Mentha Piperita Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract, Lippia Citriodora Leaf Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Leaf Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Acer Palmatum Leaf Extract, Geranium Robertianum Extract, Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Cucumis Sativus Extract, Spinacia Oleracea Leaf Extract, Codonopsis Lanceolata Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Acorus Calamus Root Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Saussurea Involucrata Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Yeast Ferment Extract, Inonotus Obliquus Extract, Tricholoma Matsutake Extract, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Oil, Kluyveromyces Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Lactobacillus/Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Ferment Filtrate, Bambusa Arundinacea Juice, Wine, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Citrus Limon Peel Extract, Solanum Lycopersicum Fruit Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Malachite Extract, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Arachidyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Dimethiconol, Polysorbate 60, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-150, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Trisodium EDTA, Tromethamine, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Coriandrum Sativum Fruit Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia Fruit Oil, Limonene, Linalool, Citronellol, Geraniol, Citral, Benzyl Salicylate
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Explained
Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the โgoodโ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinCyclopentasiloxane, or D5, is a silicone used to improve texture of products and trap moisture.
D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.
It is also an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.
Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneAlcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeThis ingredient is created by fermenting soybean extract with the bacteria, lactobacillus.
Some studies have shown it to have antioxidant properties. One study found this ingredient to have stronger properties than non-fermented soybean extract.
Another study found in increase of isoflavones, amino acids, and peptides in fermented soy milk.
Learn more about Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment ExtractThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientโs final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.ย
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesย
Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, itโs technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term โoil-freeโ isnโt regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneC14-22 Alcohols is made up of synthetic fatty alcohols. More specifically, these fatty alcohols contain 14 to 22 carbons in the alkyl chain.
Its main purpose is to stabilize products. As an emulsifier, it helps prevent waters and oils from separating.
Due to this ingredient having a similar composition to cetearyl alcohol, this ingredient may not be malassezia folliculitis safe. However, the risk is low and has been only shown by a single study, so SkinSort does not currently flag C14-22 Alcohols as a fungal acne trigger.
Learn more about C14-22 AlcoholsWe don't have a description for Saccharomyces/Barley Seed Ferment Filtrate yet.
Saccharomyces/Potato Extract Ferment Filtrate isn't fungal acne safe.
Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolHydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobuteneButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is exactly what it sounds like: pear juice fermented with the Lactobacillus bacteria (the bacteria is filtered out of the final product).
The main thing that comes out of this process is lactic acid, an AHA.
Lactic acid is one of the more well-studied AHAs in skincare:
Fermentation also adds some bonus phenolic compounds with antioxidant activity.
The only catch with this ingredient is that it is difficult to tell how much lactic acid is in any given product. Ferment filtrates don't come with standardized acid concentration like a 5% lactic acid serum would; this just means the actual exfoliating effect will vary depending on the formula's overall percentage and pH.
Remember that AHAs make your skin more sun-sensitive, so be sure to wear sunscreen.
Learn more about Lactobacillus/Pear Juice Ferment FiltrateMonascus/Rice Ferment is an antioxidant.
We don't have a description for Lactobacillus/Panax Ginseng Root Extract Ferment Filtrate yet.
This combination of bacteria + black tea + fermentation = kombucha.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps boost radiance, smoothness, and thickens skin.
You can read about the skin benefits of the individual parts here:
Saccharomyces
Black tea
We don't have a description for Lactobacillus/Water Hyacinth Ferment yet.
We don't have a description for Lactobacillus/Rye Flour Ferment yet.
Lactobacillus/Wasabia Japonica Root Ferment Extract is an antioxidant.
Saccharomyces/Grape Ferment Extract isn't fungal acne safe.
This ingredient comes from the peel of the satsuma mandarin fruit native to Japan.
Unlike other citrus ingredients, this one is not known to cause photosensitivity. This is because the citrus ingredients that cause sensitivity are high in furanocoumarins. When exposed to UV, furocoumarins bind to and destabilize your DNA, speeding up the rate of sunburn.
Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract is unique in that the peel contains very low levels of furanocoumarins and tested products with this ingredient confirmed no detectable furanocoumarins.
The peel is rich in antioxidants and lab studies show it can help brighten skin by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production.
One study on the fermented version of this ingredient found it could help reduce UVA-induced collagen breakdown. Though it is worth noting that while results are promising, robust human clinical trials are still needed.
This ingredient naturally contains limonene and other aromatic compounds that make it a perfuming ingredient.
The official COSING database only lists this ingredient as having "Perfuming" properties at this time. The brightening, antioxidant, and skin conditioning benefits that brands market come from the research literature and from how formulators choose to use the ingredient.
Learn more about Citrus Unshiu Peel ExtractCitrus Junos Fruit Extract comes from the Citrus Junos tree, or the Yuzu plant.
Yuzu has many skin benefits. It contains antioxidants and a variety of Vitamins. The vitamins found in yuzu include: Vitamin C, Vitamin A, Vitamin B6, and Vitamin B5.
Vitamins C and A also provide plenty of skin benefits such as boosting collagen production and helping to reduce the signs of aging.
For those with allergies, Yuzu does contain limonene and linalool. Both these compounds may cause skin sensitivity. If you have concerns, we recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about Citrus Junos Fruit ExtractThis ingredient comes from apples. It has antioxidant, moisturizing, and skin soothing benefits.
This ingredient is also known as banana fruit extract. It has moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
Bananas are nutrient rich in vitamins A, B, C, E, and minerals like magnesium.
Early studies suggest it may also help reduce hyperpigmentation by interrupting certain skin processes but more research is needed.
Learn more about Musa Sapientum Fruit ExtractCarica Papaya Fruit Extract comes from the papaya fruit. Papayas were first domesticated in Mexico and Central America.
This fruit extract contains papain and chymopapain, two types of enzymes. These enzyme have exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties. One study shows papain may help reduce scarring.
Papaya is also a rich source of antioxidants. Antioxidants protect your skin against damage from free-radical molecules. This may help protect against signs of aging. One antioxidant present in papayas is lycopene.
Papaya also contains Vitamin A, also known as retinol.
While papaya is used as an ingredient to help lighten skin, research is limited on this.
The seeds of papaya have been found to have anti-fungal activity.
Learn more about Carica Papaya Fruit ExtractDiospyros Kaki Fruit Extract comes from the persimmon, a fruit native to India, China, and Korea. It is rich in antioxidants and contains skin nourishing vitamins.
The antioxidant properties of persimmon come from tannins, flavonoids, carotenoids, and some of its vitamin content. Antioxidants may help with anti-aging.
Vitamins A and C also have plenty of skin benefits as well.
Learn more about Diospyros Kaki Fruit ExtractCitrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract comes from the watermelon. Watermelon has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Watermelons are rich in antioxidants such as Vitamin A, Vitamin C and lycopene. It also contains sugars and amino acids, such as arginine and glutathione.
Lycopene is a potent antioxidant. Besides helping to protect your skin against free-radical molecules, it also helps soothe the skin. Lycopene gives watermelon the distinct red color.
Learn more about Citrullus Lanatus Fruit ExtractPrunus Persica Fruit Extract comes from peaches.
Peaches are rich in antioxidants, such as Vitamins C, E and A. Antioxidants help reduce the signs of aging. These vitamins also have plenty of skin benefits on their own (for instance, Vitamin C, E helps with skin brightening).
Peach extract is also an abrasive. Abrasives are an agent used to wear away the surface of skin. They are used to help polish or exfoliate skin.
Emerging research shows Peach extract may help protect UV-B induced skin damage. However, further research is needed.
Learn more about Prunus Persica Fruit ExtractFicus Carica Fruit Extract comes from the fruit known as the fig. Figs are rich in antioxidants and helps hydrate the skin.
Figs also contain fatty acids and Vitamins A, B1, and B2.
As a humectant, figs are able to draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Learn more about Ficus Carica Fruit ExtractChaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract is an antioxidant.
This ingredient comes from the leaves of the evergreen tea, Eriobotrya japonica (loquat). It has skin conditioning and protecting properties.
The leaves of this tree are rich in antioxidants that help soothe and protect the skin from oxidative stress.
Some studies suggest this ingredient may inhibit pigment production in the skin to help even out skin tone.
Learn more about Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf ExtractWe don't have a description for Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract yet.
Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract comes from a type of goji berry plant.
Goji berries contain polysaccharides, carotenoids and flavonoids. These give it antioxidant properties that protect your skin from free-radical molecules.
Polysaccharides help hydrate the top layer of skin due to its ability to mimic natural carbohydrates.
Learn more about Lycium Chinense Fruit ExtractPhaseolus Angularis Seed Extract is an antioxidant.
We don't have a description for Panicum Miliaceum Seed Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract yet.
This ingredient is also known as cabbage leaf extract (the same cabbage you eat). It has skin conditioning properties and is packed with flavonoids, phenolic compounds, Vitamin C, and glucosinolates.
A study from 2018 found that topically applied cabbage extract reduced swelling and redness in a mouse model of contact dermatitis. Animal studies have also shown it can support wound healing by boosting collagen production and encouraging new cell growth in damaged skin.
Another study from 2025 found that cabbage leaf extract strong tyrosinase inhibition comparable to vitamin C.
Overall, this is a great supportive ingredient. Be sure to patch test if you have a known allergy to plants in the Brassicaceae family (broccoli, kale, cauliflower).
Learn more about Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf ExtractWe don't have a description for Morus Bombycis Leaf Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Ipomoea Batatas Extract yet.
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract comes from a kelp native to the northern Pacific Ocean. It is more commonly known as "wakame".
This kelp contains fatty acids, sodium, calcium, iodine, thiamine, and niacin. Studies show a polysaccharide known as fucoidan exhibits strong antioxidant activities. Fucoidan can be found in the cell walls of many species of brown seaweed.
Wakame prefers cold and temperate oceans. It is used in Japanese and Korean cuisine (yummy!).
Learn more about Undaria Pinnatifida ExtractWe don't have a description for Raphanus Sativus Root Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Brassica Rapa Leaf Extract yet.
Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract comes from the root commonly known as carrot (the orange kind we eat!).
This extract contains beta-carotene, a pigment responsible for giving plants the orange color. Beta-carotene is a potent antioxidant. Antioxidants may help reduce the signs of aging.
Beta-carotene is the reason we turn orange if we eat too many carrots.
It should be noted coming into contact with the leaves of wild carrots can cause skin irritation. The sap causes phytophotodermatitis, or sensitivity exposed to sunlight.
This ingredient is created using the edible parts of the carrot.
Learn more about Daucus Carota Sativa Root ExtractThis plant-derived ingredient comes from the root of the lotus plant and has skin conditioning properties.
Lotus root contains a mix of polyphenols, flavonoids, alkaloids, and polysaccharides. These compounds can help neutralize free radicals and regulate inflammatory signaling in skin cells.
Red onion extract? This ingredient not only benefits our diet but also offers numerous benefits for the skin.
Like many other plant extracts, red onion is loaded with antioxidants and nutrients. The red color of the onion comes from its high anthocyanin content - and anthocyanin is a potent antioxidant.
Besides being rich in antioxidants, red onions also contain sulfur, sugars, Vitamin C, and biotin.
A study from 2018 found onion extract to be just as effective as healing surgical scars as traditional silicone gel.
Another study from 2008 showed using this ingredient helped reduce surgical scar texture, redness, and overall appearance in 60 patients.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient can help with the following:
Another manufacturer from Spain claims onion extract can inhibit the release of allergy hormones and prostaglandin, or lipids found near tissue damage and infection spots.
This ingredient is water-soluble.
Learn more about Allium Cepa Bulb ExtractGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractSesamum Indicum Seed Extract can be good for oily skin.
Ginkgo Biloba Nut Extract comes from the fruit (nuts) of the Ginkgo Biloba tree. This tree is native to China.
These nuts contain potassium, Vitamin C, calcium, phosphorous, and other minerals.
We don't have a description for Actinidia Polygama Fruit Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Grifola Frondosa Fruiting Body Extract yet.
Prunus Salicina Fruit Extract is an antioxidant.
We don't have a description for Akebia Quinata Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Crataegus Cuneata Fruit Extract yet.
Houttuynia Cordata Extract is more commonly known as Heart Leaf, Fish Mint, or Chameleon plant.
The components found in Heart Leaf give it antioxidant, hydrating, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Heart Leaf is rich in flavonoids such as quercetin, apigenin, and more. It also contains polysaccharides, the most common type of carbs in food.
Flavonoids have been shown to be effective antioxidants. They help neutralize free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are unstable molecules that may damage our skin cells and DNA. The flavonoids in Heart Leaf also help soothe the skin.
Polysaccharides are naturally found in our skin. They play a role in hydrating and repairing the top layer of skin. The polysaccharides in Heart Leaf help moisturize our skin.
Studies show decanoyl acetaldehyde, a component of Heart Leaf oil, is effective at killing bacteria.
The name 'Fish Mint' comes from the herb's natural fishy smell. Is is native to southeast Asia and used throughout the continent for traditional cooking and medicine.
Learn more about Houttuynia Cordata ExtractThis leaf extract comes from the Asian mugwort. It has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.
Fun fact: This flower is part of the sunflower family.
We don't have a description for Sasa Veitchii Leaf Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Glechoma Hederacea Extract yet.
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract is from the Roman Chamomile flower. It helps soothe the skin and contains antioxidants.
This botanical extract is also known as horsetail extract. It mainly acts as an emollient, skin soother, and astringent.
A study from 2023 found compounds in Equisetum Arvense showed significant anti-inflammatory effects in irritated keratinocytes (the main cell in your outermost layer of skin).
Another study using a cream with horsetail and soybean extract found 80% of participants showed at least a 26% improvement in forehead wrinkles after 8 weeks.
Animal research has shown topical Equisetum Arvense stimulated skin and tissue growth in mice.
The research so far is encouraging, but still in its early days. But it's a lovely supporting ingredient and can be a welcome addition to any routine.
Learn more about Equisetum Arvense ExtractWe don't have a description for Cassia Tora Seed Extract yet.
This ingredient is also known as Dandelion leaf extract.
Studies show the leaf, stem, and roots of this plant are rich in antioxidants such as caffeic acid and polysaccharides, which act as humectants to help hydrate the skin.
This ingredient comes from the safflower plant. It has skin conditioning properties and offers antioxidant support.
Most research for this ingredient is preclinical, meaning its done on cell cultures or animal models. These studies suggest compounds found in safflower can reduce oxidative markers and inflammatory gene expression under stress conditions.
A few studies show topical products containing safflower extracts might improve elasticity, hydration, and wrinkle appearance. However, replication and formulation-specific details are needed to confirm these effects broadly.
People with Asteraceae allergies (marigold, chamomile) may react to safflower extracts. Be sure to patch test.
Learn more about Carthamus Tinctorius Flower ExtractThis ingredient is also known as garlic extract.
Zingiber Officinale is more commonly known as ginger.
Ginger root has antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial properties.
The antioxidant properties help protect your body from free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. As a result, ginger may help slow down signs of aging such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.
Studies show ginger inhibits the enzyme that breaks down collagen. It also helps with:
This ingredient has no negative side-effects and is safe to use unless one has a specific allergy to it.
Ginger originates from Southeast Asia but has spread throughout the world. It is now a common spice used in many cultures.
Learn more about Zingiber Officinale Root ExtractBeta Vulgaris Root Extract comes from the beet root plant. Beet Root has high Vitamin C content.
Beet roots also contain antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.
Beet root has many benefits when eaten. More research is needed on applying beetroot in skincare.
Beet Root is used to add pink/red color.
Learn more about Beta Vulgaris Root ExtractCurcuma Longa Root Extract is from the spice, turmeric. Besides being a healthy and delicious spice, turmeric also has plenty of skincare benefits. It has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-microbial properties.
Turmeric contains curcumin, an antioxidant. Antioxidants help neutralize unstable free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules may damage your skin's cells and DNA. Curcumin may help with anti-aging.
Curcumin also has anti-inflammatory properties and can help soothe skin and reduce irritation. On top of that, curcumin has been shown to help prevent hyperpigmentation from sun damage.
The anti-microbial property of turmeric can make it effective in treating acne. This property has also been shown to help regulate the production of sebum.
Learn more about Curcuma Longa Root ExtractHelianthus Annuus Seed Extract comes from sunflower seeds.
Sunflower seeds are rich in vitamin E. Studies show sunflowers contain antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.
The fatty acids found in sunflower seeds include (from highest amount to least): linoleic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.
These fatty acids hydrate your skin. Emollients create a film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed ExtractWe don't have a description for Lentinus Edodes Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Plantago Major Seed Extract yet.
This ingredient is also known as chicory root extract.
Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract is an antioxidant.
Mentha Piperita Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract is a fragrance.
We don't have a description for Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Leaf Extract yet.
This ingredient is also called lemon verbena leaf extract. It is a known EU allergen.
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract comes from rosemary. Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean.
While Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil can be volatile due to its fragrant properties, the fragrance components are usually removed in the leaf extract.
Rosemary Leaf Extract contains many antioxidants such as rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid. Rosemarinic acid, a compound found in rosemary leaf, has been found to help soothe skin conditions such as eczema and acne.
Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf ExtractBasil leaf is rich in vitamin C.
Lemon balm is a mint-family herb with skin conditioning properties. It contains components such as rosmarinic acid, caffeic acid, geraniol, citronellal, and ursolic acid.
Sage leaf extract is a culinary and medicinal herb with antibacterial, antioxidant, and soothing properties.
This ingredient is made up of 75-90% ursolic acid, a potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory compound.
We don't have a description for Thymus Vulgaris Leaf Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract yet.
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract comes from the honeysuckle flower.
Honeysuckles have skin protecting, anti-viral, and anti-inflammatory properties. It contains many antioxidants, such as luteolin, caffeic acid, loniflavone, and chlorogenic acids.
This honeysuckle is native to East Asia and used in traditional Chinese medicine to treat fever and inflammation.
Learn more about Lonicera Japonica Flower ExtractAcer Palmatum Leaf Extract is an antioxidant.
We don't have a description for Geranium Robertianum Extract yet.
We don't have a description for Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract yet.
This extract comes from Purslane, a succulent. It has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and hydrating properties.
Purslane is very nutritious. It contains omega-3 fatty acids, NMFs, many vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. The vitamins found in purslane include: Vitamin C, Vitamin A, and Vitamin E.
Fun fact: Purslane is a succulent with an extensive habitat. It is used in traditional Korean medicine to treat irritated skin.
Nowadays, purslane is becoming a superfood due to its highly nutritious content.
Learn more about Portulaca Oleracea ExtractWe don't have a description for Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract yet.
This ingredient is more commonly known as Zhi Mu root. You might see this ingredient listed under 'Volufiline' products.
That's because 'Volufiline' is comprised of this ingredient and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene.
Zhi Mu root is rich in sarsasapogenin. This compound has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
It is commonly used in East Asian medicine.
Learn more about Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root ExtractCucumis Sativus Extract comes from the cucumber. Cucumbers have anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties.
Cucumbers are mostly made up of water (95%), and the other 5% is composed of: vitamin C, caffeic acid, fatty acids, amino acids, and other minerals.
Codonopsis Lanceolata Extract is an antioxidant.
Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
Centella is rich in antioxidants and amino acids, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside.
Studies show the compounds in centella help with:
The combination of all these properties makes centella effective at soothing, hydrating, and protecting the skin.
Other great components of centella include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractAcorus Calamus Root Extract is a fragrance.
Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract comes from the leaves of the Camellia japonica plant. This plant is native to East Asia.
The leaves of Camellia Japonica have been found to have anti-inflammatory compounds. These include squalene, lupeol, and vitamin E.
This extract is created by using 50% 1,3-Butylene glycol.
Learn more about Camellia Japonica Leaf ExtractWe don't have a description for Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Ferment Extract yet.
Lavandula Angustifolia Extract comes from the lavender flower. It's also known as English Lavender and is famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.
This ingredient anti-inflammatory properties due to its prostanoids and histamine content. Lavender also contains flavonoids and phenolic acids (such as ferulic acid), potent antioxidants.
Lavender extract may have a scent. It contains linalool, a known allergen. However, lavender extract contains less linalool than lavender essential oil.
Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia ExtractRosa Canina Fruit Extract is from Rosehip. Rosehips are a fruit from a wild rose bush native to Eurasia and Africa.
Rosehip contains Vitamin C, Vitamin E, fatty acids and linolenic acids that hydrate skin. Having hydrated skin helps reduce the appearance of fine-lines and wrinkles.
Vitamins C and E are potent antioxidants and may help with anti-aging. The fatty acids are emollients that help soften and hydrate your skin.
Another potent vitamin found in rosehip is Vitamin A, or retinol. Retinol encourages collagen production in the skin.
Rosehip extract may help with brightening the skin. Several components, such as beta-carotene, are able to reduce pigmentation caused by sun damage.
Learn more about Rosa Canina Fruit ExtractThis ingredient is also known as snow lotus. It has humectant, or skin hydrating, properties.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water is also known as green tea hydrosol. It is the water leftover from steeping or steam-distilling tea.
It's mostly in cosmetics to lend a light tea scent and gentle refreshing feel (tonic) rather than acting as an active.
Unlike the extract, this ingredient only carries trace amounts of catechins, amino acids, and caffeine that makes tea leaf extract famous.
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf WaterWe don't have a description for Yeast Ferment Extract yet.
This ingredient is also known as the chaga mushroom. It is a fungus that grows on birch trees.
We don't have a description for Tricholoma Matsutake Extract yet.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Pinus Sylvestris Leaf Oil is an oil.
We don't have a description for Kluyveromyces Extract yet.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic with skin soothing properties. Postbiotics are inactive molecules produced by probiotic bacteria that provide skin benefits.
This ingredient comes from the secretion of the bacteria, Lactobacillus.
Studies show this ingredient can help calm redness and may help treat the signs of photoaging; however, the evidence is inconclusive and further studies are needed.
Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.
Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.
Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.
Learn more about Lactobacillus Ferment LysateThis extract comes from the flower more commonly known as red clover.
We don't have a description for Lactobacillus/Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Ferment Filtrate yet.
Bambusa Arundinacea Juice is an exfoliant.
We don't have a description for Wine yet.
This one is the fancy name for pomegranate enzyme. It is created by fermenting pomegranate (Punica Granatum) with Lactobacillus bacteria.
The fermentation step breaks down the fruit's bound polyphenols into smaller, more skin-available forms. Most notably, Punicalagin gets converted into Ellagic Acid.
What you end up with is a water-loving ingredient packed with plant antioxidants and a gentle skin-dissolving enzyme that works in two ways:
1) it fights daily damage from things like pollution and UV
2) it lightly loosens dead skin cells on the surface for a smoother, brighter look.
The antioxidant side is the better studied half. Pomegranate's natural compounds help neutralize unstable molecules that damage skin cells and lab studies on skin cells show they can also help calm inflammation.
Exfoliation from this ingredient is soft; it gently loosens dead skin cells on the surface. Even manufacturers admit it's not as strong as AHAs like glycolic acid.
A 2022 human trial on a fermented pomegranate serum reported improvements in moisture, brightness, elasticity, spots, and collagen density after 4-8 weeks.
This ingredient is recommended to be used at 1-3% by suppliers. Since the Lactobacillus is a fermenting organism rather than live culture in a final product, there's no known fungal acne concern.
Just be sure to patch test or avoid if you have known pomegranate allergies.
Learn more about Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment ExtractCitrus Limon Peel Extract is created from the peel of a lemon. Lemon peels contain Vitamin C. Lemon peels also exhibit antibacterial, antioxidant, and antifungal properties.
This ingredient is also known as tomato fruit extract. It comes from ripe tomatoes and is rich in antioxidants.
According to a manufacturer, the antioxidants of this ingredients help sooth irritation and redness while protecting skin from free radical damage.
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil is the fixed oil obtained from Macadamia nut native to Australia. Due to its similarity with our skin's natural oils, macadamia oil absorbs easily without feeling greasy.
Macadamia seed oil is rich in fatty acids, including oleic acid (45-75%), palmitoleic acid (7-33%), and palmitic acid (6-12%). They also contain various B vitamins, iron, and magnesium.
Palmitoleic acid helps calm inflammation and supports wound healing while oleic acid helps hydrate the skin.
Due to the high amounts of palmitic and oleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. These are fatty acids that Malassezia yeast can feed on (C11-C24 chain length). If you're prone to fungal acne, this one's probably not for you.
You'll also see this ingredient listed as: Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil . This is the same ingredient; M. ternifolia is an older INCI naming convention for the edible macadamia nut, while M. integrifolia is the species actually cultivated for oil production. Both names refer to the same oil.
Learn more about Macadamia Ternifolia Seed OilThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.
It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.
Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.
Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.
Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.
Learn more about CholesterolMalachite extract is created by grinding down the malachite stone.
More than half of the mineral is made up of copper, which plays a role in skin formation and regeneration processes.
Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil comes from a green tea plant native to China. It is closely related to Camellia sinensis. Both plants have very similar properties. This plant also has similar properties to olive oil.
This ingredient is rich in oleic acid. This makes it an effective moisturizer. By creating a thin film on the skin, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil traps moisture within. This helps keep your skin smooth and hydrated.
The antioxidant and soothing properties of this ingredient come from Vitamin E and polyphenols.
The seed oil comes from the dried kernels of the plant.
Learn more about Camellia Oleifera Seed OilTriethylhexanoin is created from glycerin and 2-ethylhexanoic acid. It is a solvent and emollient.
As a solvent, Triethylhexanoin helps dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.
It is also an emollient and helps condition the skin.
Learn more about TriethylhexanoinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinThis ingredient is a plant-based surfactant and emulsifier. It helps oil and water based ingredients mix evenly to improve formula stability without adding a "greasy" feel.
Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidPeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Dimethiconol is a silicone that resembles the popular dimethicone. Like other silicones, it is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
This ingredient helps to create a silky texture and improve spreadability. Due to its high molecular weight and thickness, it is often combined with cyclopentasiloxane.
Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.
Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.
In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.
Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.
Learn more about Polysorbate 60PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is an emulsifier derived from castor oil.
As an emulsifying agent, it helps other ingredients like fragrances and fat-soluble vitamins dissolve cohesively.
Due to its large molecule size, it doesn't penetrate beyond the skin's surface.
This ingredient has a solid regulatory track record; the CIR Expert Panel first concluded it was safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 100% in 1997. A 2012 reassessment reaffirmed that finding. Safety studies have also found no irritation or evidence of toxicity.
A 2019 study did find this ingredient to grow Malassezia, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilThis is an ester made from stearic acid and polyethylene glycol. It is used as a humectant and solvent.
This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
Carbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.
Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.
A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.
Learn more about CarbomerAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.
As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.
It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.
A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.
Learn more about Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate CrosspolymerTrisodium EDTA is one of those quietly essential helper ingredients that most people have never heard of. You'll most likely spot it near the end of ingredient lists in almost every category of skincare.
So what does it actually do?
Its main job is chelation; this is a fancy word to say it grabs onto metal ions and neutralizes them. This is because even purified water in cosmetics contains trace amounts of metals that can cause big problems in a formula.
These trace metals can break down actives faster, cause discoloration, promote rancidity in oils, and make preservatives less effective. Trisodium EDTA binds to these metals and takes them out of the equation so your products can stay stable and effective for longer.
There's also an added bonus: by neutralizing the metals ions that bacteria need to thrive, this ingredient also acts as a preservative booster.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetic formulations. It is not considered an irritant, sensitizer, and is barely absorbed through the skin.
Learn more about Trisodium EDTATromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.
As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.
Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.
1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-
Learn more about TromethaminePelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil is the pressed oil of the Rose Geranium plant. It is volatile, meaning it evaporates off the skin.
Fragrant components of Rose Geranium include citronellol and geraniol. These may cause allergies and skin-sensitivity. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.
The scent of Rose Geranium closely resembles traditional roses.
Learn more about Pelargonium Graveolens Flower OilJuniperus Virginiana Oil is the volatile oil obtained from the fruits and leaves of the Red Cedar tree. This tree is native to North America.
Coriander fruit refers to the seeds of the coriander plant. This plant is also often called cilantro. This ingredient is used to add a fresh and herbal scent to products.
Santalum Album Oil is created from the Santalum album, or the East Indian sandalwood tree. This oil has fragrance and masking properties due to its unique scent.
Sandalwood may sensitize the skin for those sensitive to fragrances.
It has been used in traditional Indian Ayurvedic medicine for centuries.
Learn more about Santalum Album OilLavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.
Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.
When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.
A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.
Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.
More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.
Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.
Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia OilThis oil is created by distilling the dried flower heads of the Roman Chamomile flower.
Chamomile is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. Several compounds found in chamomile help with soothing, such as bisbolol.
Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is the oil from the bergamot orange and is primarily used as a fragrance. It has a "fresh" and "bright orange" scent.
The main aroma compounds found in this ingredient are limonene (~27-52%), linalool (~2-22%), and linalyl acetate (~27-40%). These are known EU fragrance allergens.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
When used topically, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is a photosensitizer due to the furanocoumarin content. Furanocoumarins absorb UV-A and cause phytophotodermatitis; this can look like redness, blistering, and lasting brown pigmentation on sun-exposed skin.
Due to this, this ingredient is capped at 0.4% in leave-on products applied to sun exposed skin.
Many modern formulas used a "furanocoumarin-free" version that sidesteps the phototoxicity issue, but still contains the fragrance allergens.
Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit OilThis ingredient is created from the key lime.
Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolGeraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Learn more about GeraniolCitral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.
Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.
You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.
Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.
The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about CitralBenzyl Salicylate is a solvent and fragrance additive. It is an ester of benzyl alcohol and salicylic acid. This ingredient can be naturally found in some plants and plant extracts.
In fragrances, Benzyl Salicylate may be a solvent or a fragrance component. In synthetic musk scents, it is used as a solvent. For floral fragrances such as lilac and jasmine, it is used as a fragrance component. The natural scent of Benzyl Salicylate is described as "lightly-sweet, slightly balsamic".
While Benzyl Salicylate has been associated with contact dermatitis and allergies, emerging studies show it may not be caused by this ingredient alone.
However, this ingredient is often used with fragrances and other components that may cause allergies. It is still listed as a known allergen in the EU. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
Another study from 2021 shows Benzyl Salicylate may have anti-inflammatory properties.
Learn more about Benzyl SalicylateReviews
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