What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTriethylhexanoin
MaskingHydrogenated Polydecene
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingAesculus Hippocastanum Extract
AntioxidantPseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
HumectantPiper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPanax Ginseng Berry Extract
Skin ConditioningOenothera Biennis Flower Extract
AstringentUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPinus Palustris Leaf Extract
TonicPueraria Lobata Root Extract
HumectantEnantia Chlorantha Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningLupinus Albus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingCryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract
HumectantNelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract
AntimicrobialHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientSqualane
EmollientC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingFructose
HumectantMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentButylene Glycol
HumectantPalmitic Acid
EmollientMethylpropanediol
SolventHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningBetaine
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialGlycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingHydrolyzed Corn Starch
HumectantHydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningRaffinose
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Skin ConditioningEDTA
Lecithin
EmollientSucrose
HumectantBisabolol
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningInulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningDisodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCitric Acid
BufferingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantZinc PCA
HumectantTriethanolamine
BufferingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantCapryloyl Glycine
CleansingHexylene Glycol
Emulsifying3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantSarcosine
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSaccharide Hydrolysate
HumectantPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningOleanolic Acid
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientDesamido Collagen
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientLinalool
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingWater, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Cyclohexasiloxane, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Squalane, C12-16 Alcohols, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Fructose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Butylene Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyquaternium-51, Betaine, Alcohol, Glycosyl Trehalose, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Cellulose Gum, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Beta-Glucan, Raffinose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Stearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, EDTA, Lecithin, Sucrose, Bisabolol, Panthenol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Folic Acid, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Triethanolamine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Capryloyl Glycine, Hexylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Sarcosine, Maltodextrin, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Oleanolic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Desamido Collagen, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal
Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingMyristic Acid
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantPotassium Cocoyl Glycinate
SurfactantLauric Acid
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantMadecassoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingCalendula Officinalis Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingCarica Papaya Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningZanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPulsatilla Koreana Extract
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Olivate
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningKaolin
AbrasiveSodium Bicarbonate
AbrasiveUsnea Barbata Extract
Ceramide AP
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Powder
Chlorella Vulgaris Powder
Skin ConditioningGuaiazulene
AntimicrobialHeptyl Glucoside
SurfactantGalactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Potassium Cocoyl Glycinate, Lauric Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Stearate, Beeswax, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium PCA, Madecassoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Olivate, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Kaolin, Sodium Bicarbonate, Usnea Barbata Extract, Ceramide AP, 1,2-Hexanediol, Allantoin, Tocopherol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Powder, Chlorella Vulgaris Powder, Guaiazulene, Heptyl Glucoside
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
Centella is rich in antioxidants and amino acids, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside.
Studies show the compounds in centella help with:
The combination of all these properties makes centella effective at soothing, hydrating, and protecting the skin.
Other great components of centella include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePolyglyceryl-10 Stearate is a skin conditioner that is basically a fatty acid (stearic acid) hooked up to a chain of glycerin units.
It is a skin conditioning agent that helps skin feel soft, smooth, and hydrated.
Beyond that, it also helps emulsify and cleanse: it helps oil and water phases stay blended in moisturizers, serums, and cleansers.
This ingredient has been found to be safe in cosmetics at present concentrations and practices of use.
Research on Malassezia shows the yeast can metabolize stearic acid as a growth substrate; this ingredient is not fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polyglyceryl-10 StearateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about Tocopherol