The History of Whoo Cheonyuldan Ultimate Rejuvenating Overnight Mask

The History of Whoo Cheonyuldan Ultimate Rejuvenating Overnight Mask

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Overview

What it is

Overnight mask with 128 ingredients that contains ceramides, exfoliants, hyaluronic acid and Vitamin E

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, scar healing and dark spots

Free From

It doesn't contain any parabens or sulfates

Fun facts

The History of Whoo is from South Korea.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

What's inside

Ingredients List

56
41
31

Water

Skin Conditioning

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Squalane

Emollient
1 / 0 Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Alcohol Denat.

Antimicrobial
Alcohol IconCan worsen Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Dipropylene Glycol

Humectant

Propanediol

Solvent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Skin Conditioning
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Cetearyl Alcohol

Emollient
2 / 1 Fatty Alcohol IconCoconut Derived IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glyceryl Stearate

Emollient
1 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Emollient

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene

Emollient
1 / 2

Panthenol

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

PCA Dimethicone

Skin Conditioning
Silicon Icon

PEG-40 Stearate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Trehalose

Humectant
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Octyldodecanol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

Sorbitan Stearate

Emulsifying
0 / 1 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate

Skin Conditioning

Serine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Jojoba Esters

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables

Emollient
Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Stearic Acid

Cleansing
2-3 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Isohexadecane

Emollient

Lactobacillus Ferment

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Masking
Fragrance Icon

PEG-100 Stearate

0 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Nylon-12

Good for Oily Skin IconNon-Reef-Safe Icon

Octyldodecyl Xyloside

Emulsifying

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Masking

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

Polysorbate 60

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Sucrose Stearate

Emollient
0 / 0

Sorbitan Isostearate

Emulsifying
1-2 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Cholesterol

Emollient
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Bleaching
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Ceramide NP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract

Skin Conditioning

Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Astringent
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract

Masking
May worsen Eczema Icon

Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract

Skin Conditioning

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract

Antimicrobial

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Masking
Helps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Linoleic Acid

Cleansing
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Palmitic Acid

Emollient
2 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Angelica Gigas Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Skin Protecting

Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Phellinus Linteus Extract

Skin Conditioning

Plantago Asiatica Extract

Skin Conditioning

Prunus Persica Kernel Extract

Moisturising

Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

Skin Conditioning

Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract

Skin Conditioning

Polygonatum Sibiricum Rhizome Extract

Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Xylose

Humectant

Sodium Chloride

Masking

Punica Granatum Fruit Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Sodium Bicarbonate

Abrasive
Exfoliant Icon

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant Icon

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Trifolium Pratense Leaf Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Angelica Tenuissima Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cnidium Officinale Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cuscuta Australis Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Ledebouriella Divaricata Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Oyster Shell Extract

Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract

Astringent

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract

Skin Conditioning

Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning
Good for Oily Skin Icon

Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract

Skin Protecting

Viscum Album Extract

Skin Conditioning

CI 77480

Cosmetic Colorant

Glucose

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Ganoderma Lucidum Extract

Skin Protecting
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Brassica Napus Sprout Extract

Humectant

Brassica Oleracea Italica Sprout Extract

Emollient

Potassium Chloride

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract

Emollient
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract

Skin Conditioning

Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Sodium Phosphate

Buffering

Sodium Pyruvate

Skin Conditioning

Calcium Chloride

Astringent

Saccharomyces Lysate

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Quercetin

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Beta-Sitosterol

Emulsion Stabilising
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Ursolic Acid

Masking

Ferulic Acid

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Rosmarinic Acid

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Cedrol

Emollient

Trisodium EDTA

Tromethamine

Buffering

CI 77891

Cosmetic Colorant

Mica

Cosmetic Colorant

CI 77491

Cosmetic Colorant

Parfum

Masking
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Benzyl Benzoate

Antimicrobial
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Hydroxycitronellal

Perfuming
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Geraniol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Limonene

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Hexyl Cinnamal

Perfuming
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Citronellol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Water, Glycerin, Squalane, Alcohol Denat., Dipropylene Glycol, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Panthenol, PCA Dimethicone, PEG-40 Stearate, Trehalose, Octyldodecanol, Sorbitan Stearate, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Serine, Jojoba Esters, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Stearic Acid, Isohexadecane, Lactobacillus Ferment, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, PEG-100 Stearate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Nylon-12, Octyldodecyl Xyloside, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Carbomer, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Polysorbate 60, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sucrose Stearate, Sorbitan Isostearate, Cholesterol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Linoleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract, Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Plantago Asiatica Extract, Prunus Persica Kernel Extract, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Polygonatum Sibiricum Rhizome Extract, Tocopherol, Xylose, Sodium Chloride, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract, Sodium Bicarbonate, Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Trifolium Pratense Leaf Extract, Angelica Tenuissima Root Extract, Cnidium Officinale Root Extract, Cuscuta Australis Seed Extract, Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Ledebouriella Divaricata Root Extract, Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract, Oyster Shell Extract, Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract, Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract, Viscum Album Extract, CI 77480, Glucose, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Brassica Napus Sprout Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Sprout Extract, Potassium Chloride, Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract, Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract, Sodium Phosphate, Sodium Pyruvate, Calcium Chloride, Saccharomyces Lysate, Quercetin, Beta-Sitosterol, Ursolic Acid, Ferulic Acid, Rosmarinic Acid, Cedrol, Trisodium EDTA, Tromethamine, CI 77891, Mica, CI 77491, Parfum, Benzyl Benzoate, Hydroxycitronellal, Geraniol, Limonene, Hexyl Cinnamal, Citronellol, Linalool

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Learn more about Squalane
Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking

Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.

The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).

This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.

However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.

Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.

This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.

Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.

Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.

The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.

One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).

Also...

This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.

The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.

Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.

This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.

Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.

Learn more about Alcohol Denat.
Humectant, Masking, Solvent

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Learn more about Dipropylene Glycol
Solvent

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin. 

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Learn more about Propanediol
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Learn more about Dimethicone
Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil is the oil extracted from the seeds of the meadowfoam plant. This oil is non-fragrant and is an emollient. As an emollient, meadowfoam seed oil helps soften and hydrate the skin.

Meadowfoam seed oil is stable and has a long shelf life due to its chemical structure. It has the highest concentration of stable fatty-acids among plant oils, preventing it from degrading once exposed to oxygen.

Due to the fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.

Meadowfoam is native to California and Oregon.

Learn more about Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol
Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

Learn more about Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient, Emulsifying

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse. 

It is a:

  • Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  • Emollient, helping to soften skin
  • Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  • Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives 
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Polydecene is an emollient. It creates a non-occlusive film on the skin that offers extra protection for your skin barrier.

The texture of Hydrogenated Polydecene ranges from light and silky to rich.

Hydrogenated Polydecene is the end compound of controlled hydrogenation of Polydecene.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Polydecene
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.

In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
Skin Conditioning

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Learn more about Panthenol
Skin Conditioning

PCA Dimethicone is a type of silicone.

Emulsifying

Peg-40 Stearate is a waxy solid made up of polyethylene glycol and stearic acid. It is an emulsifier and cleanser. Emulsifiers help oils and water mix.

Stearic acid is a a fatty acid. Therefore, Peg-40 stearate may not be fungal-acne safe.

Humectant, Moisturising

Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.

As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.

In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.

Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.

Learn more about Trehalose
Emollient, Masking

Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).

It is:

You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.

This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.

Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.

Learn more about Octyldodecanol
Emulsifying

Sorbitan Stearate comes from sorbitol and stearic acid. Sorbitol is a type of sugar and stearic acid is a fatty acid.

It is used as an emulsifier and helps ingredients stay together by creating water-in-oil emulsions.

This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.

We don't have a description for Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Serine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.

Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.

Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.

Learn more about Serine
Emollient, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning

Jojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.

This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.

Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.

It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.

Learn more about Jojoba Esters

This is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.

It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables is an oil and isn't fungal acne safe.

Cleansing, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Stearic Acid
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Isohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.

Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.

Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.

Learn more about Isohexadecane
Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is made when the Lactobacillus bacteria (the same kind that makes yogurt and kimchi) are allowed to ferment a nutrient medium.

As it ferments, it collects lactic acid, peptides, enzymes, and other bioactive metabolites to provide:

A 2023 review noted that probiotic fermentation ingredients like this one can enhance antioxidant capacity, reduce UV-induced oxidative damage, and support barrier function.

One clinical study from the same year showed a Lactobacillus ferment lysate significantly reduced transepidermal water loss and improved skin hydration.

Another review highlighted that topical Lactobacillus-based preparations can improve ceramide levels in the stratum corneum, support barrier integrity, and even help reduce S. aureus colonization in atopic dermatitis.

Why is this so cool?

Basically, your skin's outer layer works as a brick wall; skin cells are bricks and ceramides are the mortar holding it together. Moisture escapes, irritants get in, and your skin gets dry and reactive when ceramide levels drop. On top of that, "bad" skin bacteria S. aureus loves to move in when your barrier is weak to make inflammation and irritation worse.

So Lactobacillus ferment is basically patching the wall and evicting the troublemaker when it boosts ceramide production and help keep S. aureus in check.

On top of all this, it also acts as a mild antimicrobial preservative booster.

Just so you know, most studies focus on specific strains or the lysate form rather than this generic "Lactobacillus Ferment", so results can vary.

Though it's a promising ingredient, it doesn't have decades of robust clinical data behind it just yet.

Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.

Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.

Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.

Learn more about Lactobacillus Ferment
Masking, Perfuming

Curcuma Longa Root Extract is from the spice, turmeric. Besides being a healthy and delicious spice, turmeric also has plenty of skincare benefits. It has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-microbial properties.

Turmeric contains curcumin, an antioxidant. Antioxidants help neutralize unstable free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules may damage your skin's cells and DNA. Curcumin may help with anti-aging.

Curcumin also has anti-inflammatory properties and can help soothe skin and reduce irritation. On top of that, curcumin has been shown to help prevent hyperpigmentation from sun damage.

The anti-microbial property of turmeric can make it effective in treating acne. This property has also been shown to help regulate the production of sebum.

Learn more about Curcuma Longa Root Extract

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Learn more about Hydrogenated Lecithin

Nylon-12 is a polymer. It is derived from 12-aminododecanoic acid, an omega-amino fatty acid

According to a manufacturer, it is a talc substitute. Like talc, nylon-12 gives products a satin feel. The manufacturer also claims this ingredients does not block pores and has moderate oil absorption.

This ingredient may not be reef-safe.

Learn more about Nylon-12
Emulsifying

We don't have a description for Octyldodecyl Xyloside yet.

PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is an emulsifier and thickening agent.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a long chain fatty-acid ester that Malassezia can use to as a food source, which may trigger or worsen breakouts.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is used in skincare as a delivery system.

It works by "encapsulating" active ingredients with its unique ring shape that is water-loving on the outside and oil-loving on the inside. This improves the stability and absorption of the product into the skin.

According to a manufacturer, it also offer some moisturizing effects.

Learn more about Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Carbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.

Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.

A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.

Learn more about Carbomer

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken, emulsify, and improve the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, it helps stabilize oil-in-water emulsions to give products an elegant feel when applied.

It can also form a thin protective film on skin. One study found that a formula using this polymer helped slow down how quickly other ingredients (like DEET) were absorbed through skin.

A 2024 study of over 1,300 patients confirmed that sensitization to this ingredient is rare. It is also non-mutagenic and has a clean track record.

Learn more about Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsifying

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Learn more about Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate
Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Sucrose Stearate is derived from stearic acid and sucrose (sugar). It is an emollient and emulsifier.

As an emulsifier, it prevents oils and water from separating in a product. This property also makes it a surfactant and therefore a cleansing agent.

Emulsifying

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.

In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.

Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.

Learn more about Sorbitan Isostearate
Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Learn more about Cholesterol
Bleaching, Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

This ingredient comes from the Asian mountain yam and has skin conditioning properties. Clinical studies have confirmed this ingredient to work as an effective moisturizer.

The extract is rich in compounds like diosgenin, polysaccharides, and polyphenols, gallic acid, and vanillic acid. Research on these extracts has demonstrated antioxidant effects in-vitro and anti-inflammatory activity in animal models.

The bioactives in the root extract have also been shown in lab tests to have anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-allergy properties.

A big 2022 review looked at the whole Dioscorea family and found these plants consistently showed antioxidant activity across the board.

This ingredient is gentle and well-tolerated by all skin types.

Learn more about Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Emollient, Skin Protecting, Tonic

Ginseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.

In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.

One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.

Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.

There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.

Most products use fresh or white ginseng because it’s more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.

Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as “Panax ginseng” in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.

For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.

In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.

Learn more about Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Skin Conditioning

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Learn more about Ceramide NP

We don't have a description for Typha Angustifolia Spike Extract yet.

Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract comes from the root of the peony plant and has a long history of being used in traditional herbal medicine. In cosmetics, it has skin conditioning properties.

This root is rich in paeoniflorin, polyphenols, and flavonoids. These compounds are known to help calm inflammatory signaling, reduce oxidative stress, and regular skin responses to irritation.

In lab and cell studies, this ingredient has been shoown to reduce pro-inflammatory mediators and protect skin cells from stress.

Some research even suggests mild involvement in pigment regulation pathways which is why you might see this ingredient in brightening products.

Learn more about Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Astringent, Humectant, Soothing

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract comes from the Baikal skullcap or Chinese skullcap plant. This plant is native to Northeast Asia and can be found in China, Mongolia, Korea, and Siberia.

In cosmetics, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. This is due to the flavonoid composition of Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract.

In Chinese traditional folk medicine, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is used to help treat lung issues and hypertension.

Learn more about Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

This ingredient comes from the cinnamon tree native to southern China.

Though cinnamon has a wonderful taste, it can cause skin irritation due to its rich coumarins, cinnamaldehyde, and styrene content.

We don't have a description for Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning, Tonic

We don't have a description for Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Saposhnikovia Divaricata Root Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic

Zingiber Officinale is more commonly known as ginger.

Ginger root has antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial properties.

The antioxidant properties help protect your body from free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. As a result, ginger may help slow down signs of aging such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.

Studies show ginger inhibits the enzyme that breaks down collagen. It also helps with:

This ingredient has no negative side-effects and is safe to use unless one has a specific allergy to it.

Ginger originates from Southeast Asia but has spread throughout the world. It is now a common spice used in many cultures.

Learn more about Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Cleansing, Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Linoleic Acid is also known as Vitamin F. It is a fatty acid with emollient and skin conditioning properties. Our top layer of skin, or epidermis, contains high amounts of linoleic acid naturally.

Your body uses linoleic acid to build ceramides and prostaglandins. Ceramides keep your skin's barrier hydrated and strong while prosaglandins help control inflammation and healing. Needless to say, linoleic acid is crucial for having a strong skin barrier.

One study found applying linoleic acid rich sunflower oil to be more effective at repairing the skin barrier than oleic rich olive oil.

Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid, meaning our bodies cannot create it on its own. We need to get linoleic acid through foods such as nuts and vegetable oils.

Acne-prone skin tends to have linoleic acid and high levels of oleic acid.

Linoleic acid can also help treat acne by softening sebum to prevent clogged pores. Another study found using 2.5% linoleic acid gel for 4 weeks showed a 25% reduction in small comedones.

This ingredient can also help lighten hyperpigmentation or sun spots by disrupting the melanin production process. It also helps your skin shed melanin pigment from your skin caused by UV exposure.

Due to its role in the production of the fatty acid prostaglandin, linoleic acid can also help reduce inflammation and support wound healing.

Linoleic acid is not always fungal-acne safe; it may trigger flare-ups in sensitive individuals.

Learn more about Linoleic Acid
Emollient, Emulsifying

Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.

In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.

Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.

The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.

In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.

It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.

Learn more about Palmitic Acid
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Angelica Gigas Root Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Polygonatum Officinale Rhizome/Root Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract yet.

This plant derived ingredient has skin conditioning and antioxidant properties.

You may see his ingredient in hair and scalp products because some research suggests it may support hair growth. However, strong human clinical evidence is limited.

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract comes Peony plant. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Emerging studies also show peony root may help reduce hyperpigmentation.

Ancient Chinese medicine has used peony root to treat dark spots, but studies are looking into this claim more.

Learn more about Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

We don't have a description for Angelica Acutiloba Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Phellinus Linteus Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Plantago Asiatica Extract yet.

Moisturising, Skin Conditioning

Prunus Persica Kernel Extract comes from the kernel of the peach.

Peach kernels contain antioxidants and fatty acids.

Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as golden chamomile extract. It is rich in antioxidants and has skin conditioning properties.

It has an interesting effect on capillary health and has been shown to strengthen capillaries/improve blood flow in the skin. A 2005 study using a cream with this ingredient significantly reduced redness and rosacea severity over 12 weeks with minimal side effects.

French patent research also backs up the anti-inflammatory and circulation supporting properties at concentrations of 0.01-2%.

Learn more about Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract

Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract comes from the honeysuckle flower.

Honeysuckles have skin protecting, anti-viral, and anti-inflammatory properties. It contains many antioxidants, such as luteolin, caffeic acid, loniflavone, and chlorogenic acids.

This honeysuckle is native to East Asia and used in traditional Chinese medicine to treat fever and inflammation.

Learn more about Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract

This ingredient comes from the safflower plant. It has skin conditioning properties and offers antioxidant support.

Most research for this ingredient is preclinical, meaning its done on cell cultures or animal models. These studies suggest compounds found in safflower can reduce oxidative markers and inflammatory gene expression under stress conditions.

A few studies show topical products containing safflower extracts might improve elasticity, hydration, and wrinkle appearance. However, replication and formulation-specific details are needed to confirm these effects broadly.

People with Asteraceae allergies (marigold, chamomile) may react to safflower extracts. Be sure to patch test.

Learn more about Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract

We don't have a description for Polygonatum Sibiricum Rhizome Extract yet.

Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.

You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.

Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.

It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.

This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.

This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.

In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.

Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.

Learn more about Tocopherol
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Xylose yet.

Masking

Chances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.

You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.

You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.

You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.

Learn more about Sodium Chloride
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

You might know this ingredient as pomegranate fruit. It has been shown to have antioxidant, skin soothing and anti-aging benefits.

Pomegranates are rich in antioxidant compounds such as polyphenolic compounds such as ellagic acid, phenolic acids, anthocyanins, and flavonoids.

Both in-vivo and in-vitro studies show pomegranate fruit helps with:

These benefits offer skin anti-aging and skin soothing benefits.

Fun fact: The name pomegranate comes from two latin words: "pome" or apple, and "granate" or "many seeded".

Pomegranate flower extract is often confused for pomegranate fruit extract, but comes from the flowers of the tree.

Learn more about Punica Granatum Fruit Extract
Abrasive, Buffering, Skin Protecting

Sodium Bicarbonate has a more famous name: Baking soda.

In cosmetics, it is used to adjust the acidity. Due to its white crystalline solid form, it can also be an abrasive (exfoliator).

This ingredient is water-soluble.

Learn more about Sodium Bicarbonate
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Emollient

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract is from a flowering plant native to Eastern US and Canada.

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract has antioxidant properties. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root has been used in traditional indigenous medicine.

Other colloquial names for this plant include black bugbane, black snakeroot, rattle-top, or fairy candle

Learn more about Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract comes from the roots of the Lithospermumerythrorhizon plant, or the purple gromwell plant.

Studies show this root extract has anti-inflammatory properties and protects against oxidative stress. It also displayed UV absorption capability and protection against UV-B damage. However, it should not replace your sunscreen.

The dried roots of this plant are used in traditional Chinese and Japanese medicine due to its antiviral properties.

Learn more about Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Trifolium Pratense Leaf Extract is an antioxidant.

We don't have a description for Angelica Tenuissima Root Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Cnidium Officinale Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Cuscuta Australis Seed Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

This ingredient comes from the evergreen flowering plant, gardenia. It has skin conditioning properties.

Skin Conditioning

Glycine Soja Seed Extract comes from the seed of the wild soybean plant. Wild soybean extract contains fatty acids (linoleic, oleic, linolenic), vitamin E, and antioxidants.

The wild soybean contains soyasaponins, a bioactive compound. Soyasaponins have inflammatory, antimutagenic, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial properties. Soyasaponin has also been found to inhibit the melanin-creation process.

Two powerful components found in the wild soybean include genistein and diadzein. These two isoflavones are potent antioxidants with anti-inflammatory properties. Genistein in particular has been found to prevent redness caused by UV exposure.

One study from South Korea found wild soybean extract to help promote hair growth at the cellular level.

The wild soybean plant is a cousin to the famous soybean that gives us tofu, soy milk, and soy sauce.

Learn more about Glycine Soja Seed Extract

We don't have a description for Ledebouriella Divaricata Root Extract yet.

Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract comes from a type of goji berry plant.

Goji berries contain polysaccharides, carotenoids and flavonoids. These give it antioxidant properties that protect your skin from free-radical molecules.

Polysaccharides help hydrate the top layer of skin due to its ability to mimic natural carbohydrates.

Learn more about Lycium Chinense Fruit Extract

We don't have a description for Oyster Shell Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Poria Cocos Sclerotium Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning, Tonic

We don't have a description for Rehmannia Chinensis Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning, Smoothing, Soothing

Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract can be good for oily skin.

We don't have a description for Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning, Soothing

We don't have a description for Viscum Album Extract yet.

Cosmetic Colorant

This is a color pigment that has a metallic and golden hue.

In the EU, this ingredient is permitted for use as a cosmetic colorant. However, the US and FDA does not list it as an approved cosmetic color additive. This affects how products that contain gold are labeled or formulated in the US market.

As a result, CI 77480 is mainly relevant in the EU regulatory context as a pigment and not an active / treatment ingredient.

Read more about Gold here.

Learn more about CI 77480
Humectant

Glucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.

Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.

It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.

Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.

Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.

In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.

Learn more about Glucose
Skin Protecting

This is the extract of the Reishi mushroom.

The Reishi mushroom has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.

This is due to its content of terpenoids, polysaccharides, macronutrients, and phenolic acids.

Learn more about Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Brassica Napus Sprout Extract yet.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Brassica Oleracea Italica Sprout Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Potassium Chloride yet.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract is from an herb called Huang Qi. The roots of this plant have traditionally used in traditional Chinese medicine.

This ingredient contains hydrating, antioxidant, and anti-inflammatory compounds such as polysaccharides, saponins, and flavonoids. These compounds have also been studied for its effects on skin repair like fibroblast activity, growth-factor signaling, and wound closure models. However, human evidence is still limited.

Recent clinical work on a proprietary Astragalus + Centella saponin system showed improvement in skin aging and quality.

Overall, this ingredient is a great supportive ingredient with low irritation risk.

Learn more about Astragalus Membranaceus Root Extract

We don't have a description for Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Hemerocallis Fulva Flower Extract yet.

Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract is an antioxidant.

Buffering

Sodium Phosphate is is behind-the-scenes formulation helper. Its main job is buffering, or locking in the product's pH.

This helps ensure the formula stays at its intended acidity through manufacturing, shipping, and sitting on your shelf. Many active ingredients like vitamin C or retinoids are pH sensitive so maintaining their happy pH range matters.

It is synthetic and reported use concentrations are very low (up to 0.086% in face powders).

Learn more about Sodium Phosphate
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Sodium Pyruvate yet.

Astringent

Calcium chloride is a white, odorless, crystalline solid. It is an astringent and can be used to change the viscosity of products.

This ingredient is highly soluble in water, acetic acid, and ethanol.

There are many forms of this ingredient, including monohydrate, dihydrate, tetrahydrate, and hexahydrate.

Learn more about Calcium Chloride
Skin Conditioning

Saccharomyces Lysate is from the yeast Saccharomyces. This ingredient is created from the cell walls of Saccharomyces.

As a probiotic, Saccharomyces Lysate helps boost your skin's natural microbiome.

Saccharomyces is also known as brewer's yeast and was traditionally used to make beer.

Learn more about Saccharomyces Lysate
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Quercetin is a polyphenol flavonoid that can be naturally found in plants like apples, onions, berries, and broccoli. It has antioxidant and skin soothing properties.

The anti-inflammatory research for this ingredient is pretty solid:

It also looks promising for anti-aging; it activates pathways tied to cellular "youthfulness" by helping the cells that produce collagen and elastin do their job better. It also switches on the "longevity" gene that keeps cells acting young.

As of right now, most of the anti-aging research has been done on animals or cells in petri dishes, but there's no harm in trying this ingredient in your routine.

Another cool perk of this ingredient?

It does a great job stabilizing the chemical UV filters avobenzone and octinoxate against sun degradation. One study found it outperformed both tocopherol and octocrylene as a photostabilizer.

The only downside (if you can even call it that) is that quercetin doesn't dissolve well in water and cannot penetrate skin easily on its own. This just means formulators pair it with delivery systems to actually get it into skin.

There is some recent buzz about this ingredient having brightening effects, but the research hasn't backed this up.

Learn more about Quercetin
Emulsion Stabilising, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Beta-Sitosterol is a plant-derived fatty acid with a structure similar to cholesterol (which naturally occurs in skin). It helps hydrate the skin and stabilize formulations.

This ingredient can be naturally found in fruits, veggies, nuts, and seeds.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Ursolic acid is a type of triterpene.

Triterpenes are chemical compounds found in various plants such as pomegranates, apples, basil, and rosemary. They have been shown to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Antimicrobial, Antioxidant

Ferulic Acid is a plant based antioxidant that can be naturally found in the cell walls of grains like rice, oats, and corn. It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, and has the ability to boost the performance of other antioxidants as well.

A well-known study found that adding Ferulic Acid to a solution of Vitamins C and E doubled the photoprotection of skin. This is why you'll often see it paired with Vitamin C or Vitamin E serums rather than sold on its own.

A 2025 review of 18 human studies found that using Ferulic Acid (0.5-1%) daily for one to three months showed improvements in:

As far as allergies go, Ferulic acid is generally well-tolerated but can cause an allergic reaction in very rare cases. It's also worth noting that Ferulic acid is often extracted from plant sources like rice bran or wheat bran, so be sure to path test if you have known grain allergies.

Outside of skincare, researchers are also looking into Ferulic Acid for its potential benefits in areas like diabetes, Alzheimer's, and heart health.

Learn more about Ferulic Acid
Antioxidant, Soothing

Rosmarinic Acid is an antioxidant.

Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Cedrol yet.

Trisodium EDTA is one of those quietly essential helper ingredients that most people have never heard of. You'll most likely spot it near the end of ingredient lists in almost every category of skincare.

So what does it actually do?

Its main job is chelation; this is a fancy word to say it grabs onto metal ions and neutralizes them. This is because even purified water in cosmetics contains trace amounts of metals that can cause big problems in a formula.

These trace metals can break down actives faster, cause discoloration, promote rancidity in oils, and make preservatives less effective. Trisodium EDTA binds to these metals and takes them out of the equation so your products can stay stable and effective for longer.

There's also an added bonus: by neutralizing the metals ions that bacteria need to thrive, this ingredient also acts as a preservative booster.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetic formulations. It is not considered an irritant, sensitizer, and is barely absorbed through the skin.

Learn more about Trisodium EDTA
Buffering, Masking

Tromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.

As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.

Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.

1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-

Learn more about Tromethamine
Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.

It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

Learn more about CI 77891
Cosmetic Colorant

Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.

Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.

This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.

Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.

Learn more about Mica
Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.

Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.

Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.

Learn more about CI 77491
Masking, Perfuming

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Learn more about Parfum
Antimicrobial, Perfuming, Solvent

Benzyl Benzoate is usually created from the condensation of benzoic acid and benzyl alcohol. It is used as a preservative, solvent, and has a floral/balsamic scent in large amounts.

As a preservative, Benzyl Benzoate works against bacteria and fungus. It is often used to treat scabies and lice in medicine.

Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.

Due to its fragrance, Benzyl Benzoate can be sensitizing and may cause contact dermatitis. It is a known EU allergen. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Benzyl Benzoate can be naturally found in cranberries and peaches.

Learn more about Benzyl Benzoate
Perfuming

Hydroxycitronellal is a fragrance created from citronellal. The smell of hydroxycitronellal is often described as "citrus-like" or "melon-like".

Hydroxycitronellal is a known EU allergen and may cause irritation when applied to the skin.

Perfuming, Tonic

Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.

Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.

Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.

Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.

Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.

Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.

2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-

Learn more about Geraniol
Perfuming, Solvent

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Limonene
Perfuming

Hexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.

This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.

Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.

Learn more about Hexyl Cinnamal
Perfuming

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Learn more about Citronellol
Perfuming

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Learn more about Linalool

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· Updated January 17, 2024 Added by Lapaki