What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientDiethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
UV FilterEthylhexyl Triazone
UV AbsorberDibutyl Adipate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol
UV FilterSilica
AbrasiveBis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Skin ConditioningTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantPolyurethane-35
Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer
Niacinamide
SmoothingTrehalose
HumectantEscin
TonicAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Saccharide Isomerate
HumectantBisabolol
AntioxidantChamomilla Recutita Flower Oil
MaskingPropanediol
SolventC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientTriethanolamine
BufferingAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingOpuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningEctoin
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Aviculare Extract
EmollientBuddleja Officinalis Flower Extract
UV FilterHyaluronic Acid
HumectantPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialGlycerin
HumectantSymphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningPanicum Miliaceum Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningDecyl Glucoside
CleansingHelichrysum Italicum Extract
AntiseborrhoeicCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingDisodium EDTA
Propylene Glycol
HumectantIsomalt
HumectantLecithin
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientLaureth-23
CleansingSteareth-100
Gel FormingSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Dibutyl Adipate, Butylene Glycol, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Methylene Bis-Benzotriazolyl Tetramethylbutylphenol, Silica, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Titanium Dioxide, Polyurethane-35, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Niacinamide, Trehalose, Escin, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Saccharide Isomerate, Bisabolol, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Oil, Propanediol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Cetearyl Alcohol, Triethanolamine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Ectoin, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, Buddleja Officinalis Flower Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Pentylene Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Glycerin, Symphytum Officinale Callus Culture Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Panicum Miliaceum Seed Extract, Decyl Glucoside, Helichrysum Italicum Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Disodium EDTA, Propylene Glycol, Isomalt, Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Palmitate, Laureth-23, Steareth-100, Sodium Benzoate
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientEthylhexyl Salicylate
UV AbsorberOctocrylene
UV AbsorberButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane
UV AbsorberPropylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialSilica
AbrasiveTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantZinc Oxide
Cosmetic ColorantDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientVp/Hexadecene Copolymer
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexyl Triazone
UV AbsorberPolyacrylamide
Chlorphenesin
AntimicrobialNiacinamide
SmoothingC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCoco-Glucoside
CleansingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLaureth-7
EmulsifyingGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningSalix Nigra Bark Extract
Skin ProtectingHamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialBetaine
HumectantPalmaria Palmata Extract
Skin ProtectingTocopherol
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingMethicone
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningTerminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract
AntioxidantVitis Vinifera Seed Extract
AntimicrobialSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingPolyglutamic Acid
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantGeranium Robertianum Extract
AstringentScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Reticulata Peel Extract
Skin ConditioningCentaurea Cyanus Flower Extract
AstringentAspalathus Linearis Extract
Skin ConditioningEisenia Arborea Extract
Skin ConditioningPorphyra Yezoensis Extract
Skin ConditioningPhaseolus Radiatus Sprout Extract
HumectantMagnesium PCA
HumectantSodium Lactate
BufferingCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingSucrose
HumectantUrea
BufferingGlycine
BufferingCalcium Chloride
AstringentPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingOrnithine
Skin ConditioningSea Salt
AbrasiveAlanine
MaskingMagnesium Chloride
Threonine
Histidine
HumectantAspartic Acid
MaskingValine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Phosphate
BufferingLysine
Skin ConditioningLeucine
Skin ConditioningTyrosine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Citrate
Skin ConditioningGlucosamine Hcl
Glutamic Acid
HumectantPhenylalanine
MaskingArginine
Masking1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide
Skin ConditioningAsparagine
MaskingCitrulline
Skin ConditioningUric Acid
BufferingMethionine
Skin ConditioningTaurine
BufferingTryptophan
MaskingFormic Acid
PreservativeAmmonia
BufferingCysteine
AntioxidantGlutamine
Skin ConditioningWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ethylhexyl Salicylate, Octocrylene, Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane, Propylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Silica, Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Vp/Hexadecene Copolymer, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Polyacrylamide, Chlorphenesin, Niacinamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Coco-Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Laureth-7, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Betaine, Palmaria Palmata Extract, Tocopherol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Methicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Polyglutamic Acid, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Saccharide Isomerate, Geranium Robertianum Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Aspalathus Linearis Extract, Eisenia Arborea Extract, Porphyra Yezoensis Extract, Phaseolus Radiatus Sprout Extract, Magnesium PCA, Sodium Lactate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Serine, Sucrose, Urea, Glycine, Calcium Chloride, Potassium Hydroxide, Ornithine, Sea Salt, Alanine, Magnesium Chloride, Threonine, Histidine, Aspartic Acid, Valine, Proline, Dipotassium Phosphate, Lysine, Leucine, Tyrosine, Isoleucine, Magnesium Citrate, Glucosamine Hcl, Glutamic Acid, Phenylalanine, Arginine, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Asparagine, Citrulline, Uric Acid, Methionine, Taurine, Tryptophan, Formic Acid, Ammonia, Cysteine, Glutamine
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bisabolol is a gentle skin conditioner, antioxidant, and soothing ingredient.
It's primary claim to fame is soothing and research shows topically applied bisabolol can quiet the chemical messengers that cause your skin to become inflamed, helping to sooth any irritation.
A clinical study found that applying 0.5% bisabolol daily for 8 weeks produced an average 9% decrease in skin pigmentation. Researchers found it can also suppress the process that leads to excess melanin production in skin.
In vitro studies found that bisabolol combined with propylene glycol significantly increased skin permeability by increasing lipid fluidity in the stratum corneum.
You'll likely see use concentrations quite low, usually 0.1-0.2%.
Overall, this is a well-tolerated ingredient that works well in formulas designed for sensitive, reactive, or post-procedure skin.
Learn more about BisabololButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is a lightweight emollient made by combinig benzoic acid with fatty alcohols that are 12-15 carbons long.
In cosmetics, it plays several roles:
The Cosmetic Review Expert Panel has concluded the alkyl benzoate group to be safe as used in cosmetics; it wasn't found to be a skin irritant and unlikely to be absorbed due to its low water solubility.
This report recorded almost 1000 reported uses with concentrations up to 59% in leave-on products but your cosmetics will typically use 0.5-15% depending on the product.
It's often called a "SPF booster": this is because it keeps UV filters properly dissolved and evenly distributed to support a sunscreen's performance. It doesn't actually raise SPF on its own.
Overall, this ingredient is well tolerated.
This ingredient is fungal acne safe because it is an ester of benzoic acid.
Think of this ingredient as two parts stuck together: an oily part and an acid part. Malassezia only gets a meal when it can snip off a fatty acid to eat. With C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, the acid part is benzoic acid, which isn't a fatty acid and which the yeast can't use as food.
Benzoic acid is actually used as a preservative to stop yeast from growing.
The oily part is a blend of C12-15 fatty alcohols but fatty alcohols in this size range can support only a little Malassezia growth (mostly for one species of Malassezia as well).
In the ingredient, those alcohols stay locked inside the molecule. The yeast can only reach them by snipping the benzoate bond, and that type of bond is harder for it to cut than a normal fatty bond.
So not much gets released. And whatever does get snipped comes packaged with benzoic acid, which discourages yeast growth.
Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl BenzoateCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholChlorphenesin is a synthetic preservative. It helps protect a product against bacteria in order to extend shelf life. In most cases, Chlorphenesin is paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol and caprylyl glycol.
Chlorphenesin is a biocide. This means it is able to help fight the microorganisms on our skin. It is also able to fight odor-releasing bacteria.
Chlorphenesin is soluble in both water and glycerin.
Studies show Chlorphenesin is easily absorbed by our skin. You should speak with a skincare professional if you have concerns about using Chlorphenesin.
Learn more about ChlorphenesinDicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.
As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexyl Triazone (aka Octyl Triazone) is an oil-soluble organic UVB filter. It has peak absorption around 314 nm, right in the middle of the UVB range.
This ingredient is described as one of the most effective UVB filters available and small concentrations are enough to deliver a high SPF thanks to its strong UV absorbing power.
Formulators love it for its stability; its ability to filter UV stays practically unchanged even under intense radiation and it can also help boost the photostability of less stable filters like avobenzone.
It's also a great pick for water resistant products because it's insoluble in water and has a good affinity for keratin.
Because it's a big, heavy molecule, the European Scientific Committee has found to to have very low dermal penetration and negative results for allergenicity.
In vitro testing also showed a low absorption rate and clean results on irritation.
Typical use levels are 1-5% with 5% being the maximum in the EU, Japan, and other markets that allow it. However, this ingredient is not approved yet in the US or Canada.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl TriazoneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPotassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a mixture. This mixture consists of the esters from phosphoricacid and cetyl alcohol.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is an emulsifier and cleansing agent. Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.
As a cleansing agent, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate helps gather oils, dirts, and pollutants from your skin. This makes it easier to rinse them away with water.
Learn more about Potassium Cetyl PhosphatePropylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.
As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.
The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.
True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).
It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.
Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.
Learn more about Propylene GlycolSaccharide Isomerate comes from sugars found in corn. It is a skin hydrator.
The structure of this ingredient can be altered to be more similar to the carbohydrates found in our skin. This ability to mimic our skin gives it hydrating properties.
Specifically, saccharide Isomerate is a humectant. Humectants draw moisture from the air to our skin.
Research shows Saccharide Isomerate to be an effective moisturizer.
Learn more about Saccharide IsomerateSilica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.
Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.
The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.
It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.
In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.
Learn more about SilicaSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateTitanium Dioxide (TD) is a mineral UV filter widely used in sunscreens and cosmetics.
It's one of only two UV filters officially classified as "mineral" by regulatory agencies (the other being Zinc Oxide).
A really common myth is that mineral filters work by reflecting UV light off your skin like tiny mirrors.
They don't only do that; modern research shows TD protects mostly by absorbing UV radiation, the same way chemical filters do.
When researchers measured this, reflection accounted for only about 4-5% of the protection (and less than SPF 2 on its own). The other ~95% comes from absorption: the UV photons hit the particle and their energy gets soaked up by its semiconductor band gap rather than bouncing off.
So "reflects vs. absorbs" was never really the right way to split mineral from chemical filters.
TD gives broad-spectrum protection that's strongest in the UVB and UVA-2 range and weaker in the UVA-1 range. Its UVA protection isn't quite as strong as Zinc Oxide's which is why you'll often see the two paired together.
Together, they make a solid broad-spectrum system.
TD is a great pick for sensitive, acne-prone, or redness-prone skin because it's non-irritating and chemically inert. Regulatory reviews classify it as a non-sensitizer and mild-to-non-irritant.
It's also unlikely to cause the "eye sting" some chemical filters are known for.
The main trade-off is cosmetic; TD can leave a white cast and has a thicker texture. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid formulas (and harder to shade-match on deeper skin tones).
Formulators often use micronized or nano-sized TD to cut down on white case and improve spreadability. Smaller particles scatter less visible light so the formula looks less chalky while still filtering UV.
TD is almost always bundled with coatings like Alumina, Silica, Stearic Acid, or Dimethicone. These coatings do two important jobs:
TD can be used at up to 25% in a finished sunscreen; this is the regulatory ceiling in both the US and the EU.
In practice, the amount in any given product varies a lot depending on the target SPF and whether it's paired with other UV filters.
TD is one of the most heavily vetted sunscreen ingredients out there. It is approved as a UV filter in all major markets worldwide, including the US, EU, UK, Japan, Korea, China, Australia, and Canada.
The safety evidence is solid. There was an old worry that nano particles might absorb through skin into the body but multiple studies (including on damaged, sunburned, and UV-irradiated skin) have shown that TD stays on the surface and the layer of dead skin cells on top of everything else.
There's also no evidence of carcinogenicity, mutagenicity, or reproductive toxicity from dermal exposure of this ingredient.
For those who have seen the headline about a 2022 EU ban on TD, that was on TD as a food additive (a complete separate use from topical sunscreen).
There are ongoing questions about how nano-TD might affect marine ecosystems. As of now, there has been no conclusive evidence that any form of TD (or any other sunscreen filter) harms coral reefs or marine life.
The science is still developing and it's a space worth watching rather than packing over.
However, several destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules that restrict certain chemical filters and steer visitors toward mineral, non-nano options. If you're traveling somewhere with these rules, a non-nano mineral sunscreen is the safe bet.
Learn more about Titanium DioxideWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum