The INKEY List Bio-Active Ceramide Repairing and Plumping Moisturizer Versus MediCube Triple Deep Erasing Cream
This barrier-repair moisturizer is formulated around Butyrospermum Parkii Butter and Ceramide NP to strengthen the skin barrier and hydrate skin.
This cream makeup remover is made to dissolve makeup, sunscreen, and daily buildup.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialPropanediol
Solvent
Polysilicone-11
C10-18 Triglycerides
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
Emollient
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Polyacrylate-13
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Emollient
Laureth-12
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Citric Acid
Buffering
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysilicone-11, C10-18 Triglycerides, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Ceramide NP, Polyacrylate-13, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Laureth-12, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Triethylhexanoin
MaskingHydrogenated Polydecene
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Emulsifying
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract
Antioxidant
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Humectant
Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Panax Ginseng Berry Extract
Skin Conditioning
Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
AstringentUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin Conditioning
Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract
TonicPueraria Lobata Root Extract
HumectantEnantia Chlorantha Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningLupinus Albus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
Perfuming
Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract
HumectantNelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract
Antimicrobial
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Dimethicone
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
C12-16 Alcohols
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingFructose
Humectant
Microcrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentButylene Glycol
Humectant
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Methylpropanediol
SolventHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPolyquaternium-51
Skin Conditioning
Betaine
Humectant
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Glycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin Conditioning
Cellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingHydrolyzed Corn Starch
HumectantHydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantBeta-Glucan
Skin Conditioning
Raffinose
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
Humectant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Skin Conditioning
EDTA
ChelatingLecithin
Emollient
Sucrose
Humectant
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningDisodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCitric Acid
Buffering
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Cholesterol
Emollient
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Antioxidant
Zinc PCA
Humectant
Triethanolamine
BufferingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Humectant
Capryloyl Glycine
CleansingHexylene Glycol
Emulsifying3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Sarcosine
Skin Conditioning
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Saccharide Hydrolysate
HumectantPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin Conditioning
Oleanolic Acid
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientDesamido Collagen
Skin Conditioning
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Parfum
Masking
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Linalool
Perfuming
Benzyl Salicylate
Perfuming
Limonene
Perfuming
Hydroxycitronellal
Perfuming
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Cyclohexasiloxane, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Squalane, C12-16 Alcohols, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Fructose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Butylene Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyquaternium-51, Betaine, Alcohol, Glycosyl Trehalose, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Cellulose Gum, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Beta-Glucan, Raffinose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Stearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, EDTA, Lecithin, Sucrose, Bisabolol, Panthenol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Folic Acid, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Triethanolamine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Capryloyl Glycine, Hexylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Sarcosine, Maltodextrin, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Oleanolic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Desamido Collagen, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.
Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.
Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Polyisobutene is a synthetic polymer. Polymers are compounds with high molecular weight. Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is an emollient and texture enhancer.
In one study, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene showed better skin hydration levels than Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride. As an emollient, it helps keep your skin soft and hydrated by trapping moisture in.
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene is often used as a mineral oil replacement.
Learn more about Hydrogenated PolyisobuteneSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
