What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Triethylhexanoin
MaskingHydrogenated Polydecene
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Glyceryl Stearate Se
Emulsifying
Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract
Antioxidant
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Humectant
Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Panax Ginseng Berry Extract
Skin Conditioning
Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract
AstringentUlmus Davidiana Root Extract
Skin Conditioning
Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract
TonicPueraria Lobata Root Extract
HumectantEnantia Chlorantha Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningLupinus Albus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
Perfuming
Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract
HumectantNelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract
Antimicrobial
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
Emollient
Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Dimethicone
Emollient
Squalane
Emollient
C12-16 Alcohols
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingFructose
Humectant
Microcrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentButylene Glycol
Humectant
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Methylpropanediol
SolventHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientPolyquaternium-51
Skin Conditioning
Betaine
Humectant
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Glycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin Conditioning
Cellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingHydrolyzed Corn Starch
HumectantHydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantBeta-Glucan
Skin Conditioning
Raffinose
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
Humectant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Skin Conditioning
EDTA
Lecithin
Emollient
Sucrose
Humectant
Bisabolol
Antioxidant
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Inulin Lauryl Carbamate
Emulsion StabilisingFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningDisodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCitric Acid
Buffering
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Cholesterol
Emollient
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Antioxidant
Zinc PCA
Humectant
Triethanolamine
BufferingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate
Humectant
Capryloyl Glycine
CleansingHexylene Glycol
Emulsifying3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Sarcosine
Skin Conditioning
Maltodextrin
Absorbent
Saccharide Hydrolysate
HumectantPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin Conditioning
Oleanolic Acid
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientDesamido Collagen
Skin Conditioning
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Parfum
Masking
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Linalool
Perfuming
Benzyl Salicylate
Perfuming
Limonene
Perfuming
Hydroxycitronellal
Perfuming
Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Cyclohexasiloxane, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Aesculus Hippocastanum Extract, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Oenothera Biennis Flower Extract, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Pinus Palustris Leaf Extract, Pueraria Lobata Root Extract, Enantia Chlorantha Bark Extract, Lupinus Albus Seed Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Cryptomeria Japonica Leaf Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Leaf Extract, Cinnamomum Zeylanicum Bark Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Dimethicone, Squalane, C12-16 Alcohols, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Fructose, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Butylene Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Methylpropanediol, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Polyquaternium-51, Betaine, Alcohol, Glycosyl Trehalose, Isononyl Isononanoate, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Cellulose Gum, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Beta-Glucan, Raffinose, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Stearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Adenosine, Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate, EDTA, Lecithin, Sucrose, Bisabolol, Panthenol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Folic Acid, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Citric Acid, Ceramide NP, Cholesterol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Zinc PCA, Triethanolamine, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Capryloyl Glycine, Hexylene Glycol, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Sarcosine, Maltodextrin, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Oleanolic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Desamido Collagen, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 60, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin, Potassium Sorbate, Caprylyl Glycol, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal
Water
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Ceteareth-20
CleansingTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Dimethicone
Emollient
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
Masking
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin Protecting
Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin Protecting
Dextran
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Emollient
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin Conditioning
Disodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Benzoate
Masking
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialWater, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ceteareth-20, Tocopheryl Acetate, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil, Carbomer, Potassium Sorbate, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Dextran, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Benzoate, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil is a plant oil derived from the seeds of a sunflower.
It is rich in fatty acids, primarily linoleic acid and oleic acid. This gives it emollient and skin conditioning properties.
The reason this ingredient is so effective is because it forms a thin film on the skin that reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) while supplying linoleic acid to the stratum corneum to improve barrier strength.
The high linoleic acid content is particularly noteworthy for acne-prone skin.
Research suggests that acne-prone skin tends to be deficient in linoleic acid in sebum. Topical application may help replenish this to support a healthier follicular environment and less comedone-promoting sebum.
One randomized study found sunflower seed oil preserved skin barrier integrity in adult volunteers with and without atopic dermatitis (outperforming olive oil).
This ingredient is well-studied, gentle, and an effective emollient suitable for most skin types.
On fungal acne: This ingredient may not be Fungal acne (Malassezia folliculitis) safe. This is because it contains fatty acids with carbon chain lengths in the C11-C24 range.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed OilPotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
