What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantNiacinamide
SmoothingSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Glucoside
AntioxidantGlutathione
Cyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicLinolenic Acid
CleansingPyridoxine Hcl
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingCimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract
AntimicrobialPolygonum Multiflorum Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSesamum Indicum Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningPhellinus Linteus Extract
Skin ConditioningAngelica Gigas Root Extract
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningPaeonia Albiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSophora Flavescens Root Extract
AntioxidantScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPolygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
AntioxidantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Paradisi Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningSaccharide Isomerate
HumectantArbutin
AntioxidantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningAluminum Hydroxide
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientIsohexadecane
EmollientPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingWater
Skin ConditioningTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Benzyl Glycol
SolventEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRaspberry Ketone
MaskingDisodium EDTA
Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
MaskingHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Butylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Glycerin, CI 77891, Niacinamide, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Panthenol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Glutathione, Cyanocobalamin, Biotin, Linolenic Acid, Pyridoxine Hcl, Tocopheryl Acetate, Tocopherol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Extract, Phellinus Linteus Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Paeonia Albiflora Root Extract, Sophora Flavescens Root Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Citrus Paradisi Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Saccharide Isomerate, Arbutin, Adenosine, Aluminum Hydroxide, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Isohexadecane, Polysorbate 80, Water, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Benzyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Raspberry Ketone, Disodium EDTA, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDimethicone
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingMethylpropanediol
SolventCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Centella Asiatica Extract
CleansingDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPiper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingPanax Ginseng Berry Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Capillaris Extract
Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningNymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningElaeis Guineensis Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientSteareth-21
CleansingPEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
StabilisingPolyacrylamide
Steareth-2
EmulsifyingIsohexadecane
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingPalmitic Acid
EmollientPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingRetinol 0.1%
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Skin ConditioningPEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingGlycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Laureth-7
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningRaffinose
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantLecithin
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningBHA
AntioxidantMyristic Acid
CleansingTranexamic Acid
AstringentPropanediol
SolventDipropylene Glycol
HumectantDisodium Phosphate
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCollagen
MoisturisingMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantAsiaticoside
AntioxidantSodium Palmitoyl Proline
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Retinal
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantSodium Phosphate
BufferingFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Tetrahydropiperine
Skin ConditioningPhloretin
AntioxidantArginine
MaskingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Centella Asiatica Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Panthenol, BHT, Cyclopentasiloxane, Steareth-21, PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylamide, Steareth-2, Isohexadecane, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Tromethamine, Palmitic Acid, Polyquaternium-51, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Retinol 0.1%, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glycosyl Trehalose, Beta-Glucan, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Laureth-7, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Adenosine, Raffinose, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Pentylene Glycol, BHA, Myristic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Disodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Collagen, Madecassic Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Asiaticoside, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Asiatic Acid, Glutathione, Retinal, Madecassoside, Sodium Phosphate, Ferulic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tetrahydropiperine, Phloretin, Arginine, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCentella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlutathione is an antioxidant naturally found in our bodies. It is made up of three amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid.
As an antioxidant, it prevents oxidative damage to parts of our cell.
While glutathione is said to help with fading dark spots, the results from research are inconclusive. Further studies are needed. With that said, gluthatione has been shown to protect our skin from UV-B induced damage.
This ingredient is naturally occurring in plants, animals, fungi, and some bacteria.
Learn more about GlutathioneGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinIsohexadecane is added to enhance texture, emulsify, and to help cleanse. It is an isoparrafin. It is a component of petrolatum.
Due to its large size, Isohexadecane is not absorbed by the skin. Instead, it sits on top and acts as an emollient. Emollients help keep your skin soft and smooth by trapping moisture within.
Isohexadecane is often used in products designed to help oily skin. It is lightweight and non-greasy while helping to moisturize. When mixed with silicones, it gives a product a silky feel.
Learn more about IsohexadecaneNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water