What's inside

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Show highlights for:

Water

Skin Conditioning

Cyclohexasiloxane

Emollient
Silicon Icon

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Emollient

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Methylpropanediol

Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)

Emollient

Panthenol

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Tocopheryl Acetate

Antioxidant
0 / 0 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Skin Conditioning

Centella Asiatica Extract

Cleansing
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Bleaching
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Ficus Carica Fruit Extract

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Centella Asiatica Root Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract

Perfuming
Fragrance Icon

Artemisia Capillaris Extract

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Emollient
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Glyceryl Stearate

Emollient
1 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Bakuchiol

Antimicrobial
Bakuchiol IconAntioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Palmitic Acid

Emollient
2 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sodium Polyacrylate

Absorbent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Stearic Acid

Cleansing
2-3 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Retinol 0.1%

Skin Conditioning
Retinoid IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Humectant
Helps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Tromethamine

Buffering

Polyquaternium-51

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Beta-Glucan

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Cetyl Alcohol

Emollient
2 / 2 Fatty Alcohol IconCoconut Derived IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

BHT

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Collagen

Moisturising
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Myristic Acid

Cleansing
3 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

BHA

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Antimicrobial
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Ceramide NP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Saccharomyces Ferment

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Retinal

Skin Conditioning
Retinoid IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Asiaticoside

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Glyceryl Polymethacrylate

Madecassoside

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Propylene Glycol

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glycolipids

Skin Conditioning

Glycine Soja Peptide

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Resveratrol

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Sucrose Distearate

Emollient
0 / 2 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Asiatic Acid

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Madecassic Acid

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Emollient
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

PEG-100 Stearate

Surfactant
0 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Polysorbate 20

Emulsifying
0 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Parfum

Masking
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Water

Skin Conditioning

Bifida Ferment Lysate

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Glycereth-26

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Sorbus Commixta Extract

Skin Conditioning

Juniperus Chinensis Xylem Extract

Skin Conditioning

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

Emollient

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate

Antimicrobial

Betaine

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Grifola Frondosa/Ophioglossum Vulgatum Extract Ferment Filtrate

Skin Conditioning

Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment Filtrate

Skin Conditioning

Portulaca Oleracea Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract

Masking
Fragrance IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Hydrolyzed Rice Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Sea Water

Humectant

Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrolyzed Extensin

Skin Conditioning

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract

Skin Protecting
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Beta Vulgaris Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Aronia Arbutifolia Extract

Skin Conditioning

Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil

Skin Conditioning
Oil IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconGood for Dark Spots IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Lactobacillus Ferment

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Lactococcus Ferment Lysate

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Manilkara Multinervis Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Cassia Alata Leaf Extract

Astringent

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Skin Protecting
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract

Skin Conditioning

Saccharomyces/Viscum Album Ferment Extract

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Yeast Ferment Extract

Skin Conditioning

Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Humectant
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract

Skin Conditioning

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables

Emollient
Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide

Cleansing
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil

Skin Conditioning
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Skin Conditioning

Beta-Sitosterol

Emulsion Stabilising
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Panthenol

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Ubiquinone

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Emollient
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Retinol

Skin Conditioning
Retinoid IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Biotin

Antiseborrhoeic

Brassica Campestris Sterols

Emollient

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Humectant
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Copper Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Acacia Arabica Stem Bark Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cholesterol

Emollient
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Glyceryl Linolenate

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glyceryl Linoleate

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glyceryl Arachidonate

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Cyclopentasiloxane

Emollient
Silicon Icon

Ethyl Hexanediol

Solvent

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone

Emulsifying
Silicon Icon

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

Emulsifying
Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

PPG-26-Buteth-26

Skin Conditioning

Polysorbate 20

Emulsifying
0 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Glyceryl Caprylate

Emollient

Triethanolamine

Buffering
2 / 0

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Skin Conditioning
Silicon Icon

Octyldodecanol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Dipropylene Glycol

Humectant

Cyclomethicone

Emollient
0 / 0 Silicon Icon

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Disodium EDTA

Dextrin

Absorbent

Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer

Glyceryl Polyacrylate

Dimethiconol

Emollient
Silicon Icon

Propylene Glycol

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Ceteth-24

Cleansing

Choleth-24

Emulsifying
0 / 0

Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer

Surfactant

Cetyl Phosphate

Emulsifying

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking
Coconut Derived IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Lecithin

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol

Cleansing
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

BHT

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Ceteth-3

Emulsifying

Ceteth-5

Emulsifying

Silica

Abrasive
Exfoliant IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores Icon

Tocopheryl Acetate

Antioxidant
0 / 0 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycereth-26, Sorbus Commixta Extract, Juniperus Chinensis Xylem Extract, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Leuconostoc Ferment Filtrate, Betaine, Grifola Frondosa/Ophioglossum Vulgatum Extract Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Sea Water, Carthamus Tinctorius Oleosomes, Hydrolyzed Extensin, Adenosine, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Aronia Arbutifolia Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Echium Plantagineum Seed Oil, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Manilkara Multinervis Leaf Extract, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Saccharomyces Ferment Filtrate, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Saccharomyces/Viscum Album Ferment Extract, Yeast Ferment Extract, Pogostemon Cablin Leaf Oil, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Cardiospermum Halicacabum Flower/Leaf/Vine Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Unsaponifiables, Alpha-Glucan Oligosaccharide, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Beta-Sitosterol, Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Ubiquinone, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Retinol, Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract, Biotin, Brassica Campestris Sterols, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Acacia Arabica Stem Bark Extract, Cholesterol, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Linoleate, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ethyl Hexanediol, Dimethicone, PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Polysorbate 20, Carbomer, Glyceryl Caprylate, Triethanolamine, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Octyldodecanol, Xanthan Gum, Dipropylene Glycol, Cyclomethicone, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Dextrin, Lauryl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Dimethiconol, Propylene Glycol, Ceteth-24, Choleth-24, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Maltodextrin Crosspolymer, Cetyl Phosphate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Lecithin, PEG-5 Rapeseed Sterol, BHT, Ceteth-3, Ceteth-5, Silica, Tocopheryl Acetate, Phenoxyethanol

Reviews

3.22
Overall rating
5
4
3
2
1
What people say
Absorbs Well 50% Light 50% Works Well 50%
1.00
Overall rating
5
4
3
2
1
What people say
Irritating 100%

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Skin Conditioning

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.

Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.

In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.

Learn more about Adenosine
BHT
Antioxidant, Masking

BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.

As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.

The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.

However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.

Learn more about BHT
Skin Conditioning

Bifida Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic ingredient made by fermenting Bifidobacterium to extract a nutrient-rich mix of peptides, amino acids, vitamins, organic acids, and polysaccharides.

These components are basically the building blocks that your skin already uses to stay hydrated, repair itself, and maintain its barrier. That's why this ingredient helps your skin hold onto moisture and stay resilient against irritation.

One in-vitro study found that this ingredient tells your skin cells to produce more of the proteins (filaggrin, loricrin, and involucrin) for building a strong and healthy barrier. This study also found this ingredient to be a solid antioxidant that helped neutralize damage against UV and pollution.

A study with people from 2010 found that sensitive, reactive skin using a cream with 10% of this ingredient for a month became noticeably less dry, less reactive, and harder to irritate compared to the group using a plain cream.

In short, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient that can help with barrier repair, antioxidant protection, and calming reactive skin.

This ingredient is generally considered fungal acne (Malassezia) safe; Bifidobacterium is a bacterium, not a yeast or fungus.

The fungal acne concern with fermented ingredients mainly applies to yeast-derived ferments like Saccharomyces and Galactomyces, because those are in the same kingdom as Malassezia and could theoretically contain residual compounds that feed it.

Bifida is a completely different organism, so on its own it doesn't provide a food source for the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.

Learn more about Bifida Ferment Lysate
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Learn more about Hydrogenated Lecithin
Smoothing

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Learn more about Niacinamide
Skin Conditioning

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Learn more about Panthenol
Emulsifying

Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.

It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.

The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.

Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).

True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.

Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Polysorbate 20
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.

As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.

The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.

True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).

It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.

Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.

Learn more about Propylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning

Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.

Why is retinol famous?

It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.

Retinol is proven to:

This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.

Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).

Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.

We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.

Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.

Read about Tretinoin

Learn more about Retinol
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Tocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.

One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.

Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.

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Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

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Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

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