Centellian24 Madeca Cream Time Reverse

Centellian24 Madeca Cream Time Reverse

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Overview

What it is

General moisturizer with 96 ingredients that contains ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, retinoid and Vitamin E

Cool Features

It is cruelty-free and reef safe

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture

Free From

It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, parabens or sulfates

Fun facts

Centellian24 is from South Korea. This product is used in 1 routines created by our community.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

About this product

Ingredients List

Dive into the full list of ingredients.

38
31
27

Lactis Proteinum Extract

Skin Conditioning

Dipropylene Glycol

Masking

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Emollient

Capric Acid

Cleansing
2 / 2 Fragrance Icon

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Glyceryl Stearate

Emollient
1 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate

Emollient

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconGood for Oily Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Cyclohexasiloxane

Emollient
Silicon Icon

Cetyl Alcohol

Emollient
2 / 2 Fatty Alcohol Icon

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Water

Skin Conditioning

Dicaprylyl Ether

Emollient

Vinyldimethicone

Silicon Icon

Asiaticoside

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Madecassic Acid

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Boric Acid

Antimicrobial

Madecassoside

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Polypeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Bourbon Extract

Astringent

Inula Racemosa Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Palau White Clay Extract

Humectant

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil

Emollient
Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Donkey Oil

Emollient
Oil Icon

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid Icon

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Stearyl Alcohol

Emollient
2 / 2 Fatty Alcohol Icon

Beeswax

Emulsion Stabilising
0-2 / 0 May worsen Oily Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Xylitylglucoside

Humectant

2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate

Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Crosspolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

Jojoba Esters

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Anhydroxylitol

Humectant

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning

Hydroxyacetophenone

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Xylitol

Humectant

Methylpropanediol

Solvent

Propanediol

Solvent

Glucose

Humectant

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Ethoxydiglycol

Humectant
0 / 0

Disodium Azelate

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Good for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Sorbitan Isostearate

Emulsifying
1-2 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Sodium Laurate

Cleansing

Cyclodextrin

Absorbent

Lauric Acid

Cleansing
4 / 1 May worsen Oily Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sodium Polyacrylate

Absorbent

Pvp

Emulsion Stabilising
0 / 0

Pvm/Ma Copolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

Octyldodecanol

Emollient

Glycolide

Humectant

Caffeine

Skin Conditioning

C12-13 Alketh-9

Emulsifying

Collagen Amino Acids

Moisturising
Helps with Anti-Aging Icon

Ceramide Eos

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Resveratrol

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Arginine

Masking
Good for Scar Healing IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glycol

Humectant
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Ectoin

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Taurine

Buffering

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Emollient

Retinol

Skin Conditioning
Retinoid IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Maltodextrin

Absorbent

Phytosphingosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Sucrose Stearate

Emollient
0 / 0

Sodium Dna

Skin Conditioning

Cyanocobalamin

Skin Conditioning

Glycine

Buffering
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Glutamic Acid

Humectant

Helianthus Annuus Seed

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Polyglycerin-3

Humectant

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Artemisia Vulgaris Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil

Masking
0-2 / 0 Fragrance IconOil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Orange Roughy Oil

Skin Conditioning
Oil Icon

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Masking
Fragrance IconOil IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Masking
Fragrance IconOil Icon

Pelargonium Roseum Leaf Oil

Perfuming
Fragrance IconOil Icon

Fruit Fly Larva Oil

Emollient
Oil Icon

Curcuma Aromatica Root Oil

Skin Conditioning
Oil Icon

Abies Balsamea Bark Oil

Masking
Oil Icon

Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil

Masking
Oil Icon

Marmot Oil

Oil Icon

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Masking
Oil Icon

Geranium Maculatum Oil

Masking
Oil Icon

Myroxylon Pereirae Resin

Masking
May cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Limonene

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Pinus Mugo Leaf Oil

Masking
Fragrance IconOil IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Lactis Proteinum Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Capric Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Water, Dicaprylyl Ether, Vinyldimethicone, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Boric Acid, Madecassoside, Polypeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Bourbon Extract, Inula Racemosa Root Extract, Palau White Clay Extract, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Donkey Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Stearyl Alcohol, Beeswax, Xylitylglucoside, 2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate, Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Crosspolymer, Jojoba Esters, Anhydroxylitol, Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Xylitol, Methylpropanediol, Propanediol, Glucose, Xanthan Gum, Ethoxydiglycol, Disodium Azelate, Adenosine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Laurate, Cyclodextrin, Lauric Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Pvp, Pvm/Ma Copolymer, Octyldodecanol, Glycolide, Caffeine, C12-13 Alketh-9, Collagen Amino Acids, Ceramide Eos, Resveratrol, Arginine, Glycol, Ectoin, Taurine, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Retinol, Maltodextrin, Phytosphingosine, Sucrose Stearate, Sodium Dna, Cyanocobalamin, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Helianthus Annuus Seed, Polyglycerin-3, Tocopherol, Artemisia Vulgaris Extract, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Orange Roughy Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Roseum Leaf Oil, Fruit Fly Larva Oil, Curcuma Aromatica Root Oil, Abies Balsamea Bark Oil, Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil, Marmot Oil, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Geranium Maculatum Oil, Myroxylon Pereirae Resin, Linalool, Limonene, Pinus Mugo Leaf Oil

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Lactis Proteinum Extract yet.

Masking, Solvent

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created stabilizer and solvent. It is a part of the glycol class in the alcohol family.

Dipropylene Glycol helps dissolve and evenly distribute ingredients. It also helps decrease viscosity and thin out texture.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Learn more about Dipropylene Glycol
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Polydecene is an emollient. It creates a non-occlusive film on the skin that offers extra protection for your skin barrier.

The texture of Hydrogenated Polydecene ranges from light and silky to rich.

Hydrogenated Polydecene is the end compound of controlled hydrogenation of Polydecene.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Polydecene
Cleansing, Emulsifying, Masking

Capric Acid is a saturated fatty acid. It is naturally found in coconut oil and palm kernel oil. Creating capric acid involves the oxidation of decanol, a primary alcohol. This ingredient has perfuming, masking, and antibacterial properties.

Capric Acid is mainly used in perfume and to create artificial fruit flavors. Masking ingredients are used to cover the scent of another ingredient.

Interestingly, capric acid has a rancid scent on its own.

Learn more about Capric Acid
Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is an emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.

It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.

Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

A study from 2016 found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.

As a humectant, it helps the skin stay hydrated by pulling moisture to your skin. The low molecular weight of glycerin allows it to pull moisture into the deeper layers of your skin.

Hydrated skin improves your skin barrier; Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.

Glycerin has also been found to have antimicrobial and antiviral properties. Due to these properties, glycerin is often used in wound and burn treatments.

In cosmetics, glycerin is usually derived from plants such as soybean or palm. However, it can also be sourced from animals, such as tallow or animal fat.

This ingredient is organic, colorless, odorless, and non-toxic.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Emollient, Emulsifying

Glyceryl Stearate is a mix of glycerin and stearic acid.

It is used to stabilize the mixing of water and oil ingredients. By preventing these ingredients from separating, it can help elongate shelf life. It can also help thicken the product's texture.

As an emollient, it helps soften skin and supports barrier-replenishing ingredients.

In cosmetics, Glyceryl Stearate is often made from vegetable oils or synthetically produced.

This ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate

Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate is an emollient that helps make your skin smooth and hydrated. It specializes in creating a non-oily and "wet" feeling on skin.

This ingredient comes from isostearic acid, a saturated fatty acid. It is a synthetic ingredient.

Smoothing

Niacinamide has emerged as an all-star ingredient due to its many benefits.

It is known to treat acne by reducing inflammation. It also helps fade dark-spots and strengthen the skin by promoting the growth of the ceramide barrier.

Other benefits include smoothing wrinkles and minimizing redness.

The cherry on top? Niacinamide can also help build keratin, a protein that keeps skin firm.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

Niacinamide can be mixed with other ingredients to boost benefits. For instance, it has shown to be effective when used with copper, folic acid, and zinc to treat acne.

Learn more about Niacinamide
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.

Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.

As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.

Learn more about Cyclohexasiloxane
Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Cetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.

Its main roles are:

Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol. The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

Learn more about Cetyl Alcohol

Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate isn't fungal acne safe.

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Dicaprylyl Ether is created from caprylic acid. It is a texture-enhancer and emollient.

As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Ether is non-comedogenic. It helps soften and smooth the skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, helping to hydrate the skin.

Dicaprylyl Ether gives a non-greasy feel and better spreadability to products.

Learn more about Dicaprylyl Ether

Vinyldimethicone is a type of silicone.

Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Asiaticoside comes from the super popular skin-soothing ingredient, Centella asiatica. It is one of four active compounds found in the extract of Centella Asiatica.

Asiaticoside is an antioxidant and helps with wound healing. It has been shown to increase antioxidant activity during the wound healing process.

Skin Conditioning

Madecassic Acid is a major component of Centella Asiatica Extract. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

It is a triterpenoid, meaning it naturally acts as an antioxidant. Antioxidants protect your skin against damage from environmental factors such as pollution and UV.

Studies show Madecassic Acid helps soothe the skin due to its ability to block inflammation pathways.

Learn more about Madecassic Acid
Antimicrobial, Buffering

We don't have a description for Boric Acid yet.

Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Madecassoside comes from the super popular skin-soothing ingredient, Centella asiatica. It is one of four active compounds found in the extract of Centella Asiatica.

Madecassoside has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties. It contains fatty acids, amino acids, beta-carotene, and phytochemicals.

One study found using Madecassoside with ascorbic acid helped reduce the signs of aging and improved skin hydration.

Learn more about Madecassoside
Skin Conditioning

Polypeptide-1 is a peptide.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a form of hyaluronic acid. It is created by the hydrolysis of hyaluronic acid with a high molecular weight. Once created, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid has a low molecular weight.

Low molecular weight HA has been shown to hydrate and increase elasticity of the skin. Increasing elasticity is also associated with reduction of wrinkle depth.

One study found topical low molecular weight hyaluronic acid may be considered for the treatment of rosacea in the adult population. However, we always recommend speaking with a professional about your skin concerns.

Hyaluronic acids are a humectant. This means they draw moisture from the air. Hyaluronic acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.

Read more about other common forms of hyaluronic acid:

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Astringent, Masking

We don't have a description for Bourbon Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Inula Racemosa Root Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Palau White Clay Extract yet.

Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil is the fixed oil obtained from Macadamia nut.

Macadamia seed oil is rich in fatty acids, including oleic acid (45-75%), palmitoleic acid (7-33%), and palmitic acid (6-12%). They also contain various B vitamins, iron, and magnesium.

Palmitoleic acid has been shown to help soothe inflammation and promote wound healing. It is also naturally found in the fat of our skin.

Macadamia seed oil may not be malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne, safe.

Learn more about Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Donkey Oil is an oil.

Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is created from the hydrogenation of lecithin (a group of phospholipids). Hydrogenation is a chemical reaction between hydrogen and another element.

This ingredient is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps soften skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid's salt form. It is commonly derived from the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

Like hyaluronic acid, it is great at holding water and acts as a humectant. This makes it a great skin hydrating ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate is naturally occurring in our bodies and is mostly found in eye fluid and joints.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is an ester of lauric acid and Polyglycerin-10.

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate is a cleansing agent and emulsifier. It helps gather dirt, oil, and other pollutants to be rinsed away. As an emulsifier, it helps prevent ingredients from separating, such as oil and water.

Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Stearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients.

Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.

They are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent alcohols. FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.

Learn more about Stearyl Alcohol
Emulsion Stabilising, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Beeswax is natural wax produced by honey bees and can be synthetically created. It consists mainly of fatty acid esters and long-chain alcohols.

In cosmetics, beeswax is a emollient. Due to its waxy structure, it creates a protective barrier. This barrier prevents water from evaporating off the skin.

This may not be a good ingredient for oily skin. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.

Beeswax cannot be removed with water, but can be taken off with an oil cleanser.

Beeswax is also antiseptic and contains vitamin A.

Learn more about Beeswax
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Xylitylglucoside is created from xylitol and glucose, two humectants.

Not surprisingly, this ingredient is also a humectant. It attracts and holds water in your skin, helping to maintain hydration.

This ingredient is most commonly found in a popular trio called Aquaxyl. Aquaxyl is made up of anhydroxylitol(24 - 34%), xylitylglucoside (35 - 50%), and xylitol (5 - 15%).

According to a manufacturer, Aquaxyl is known for a 3-D hydration concept and an anti-dehydration shield to reinforce the outer layer of skin.

Learn more about Xylitylglucoside

We don't have a description for 2-Hydroxyethyl Acrylate yet.

We don't have a description for Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Crosspolymer yet.

Emollient, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning

Jojoba Esters is a wax created from Jojoba oil. It is an emollient and film-forming ingredient. In bead form, it is an exfoliator.

This ingredient has high oxidative stability, meaning it doesn't break down when exposed to oxygen.

Its similarity to our skin's natural oils makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe our skin by creating a barrier on top. This barrier helps trap moisture in, keeping skin hydrated.

It is created using either the hydrogenation or transesterification processes on jojoba oil.

Learn more about Jojoba Esters
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is created from dehydrating xylitol in acidic conditions. Xylitol is a famous sugar and humectant.

Much like its predecessor, anhydroxylitol is a humectant. Humectants attract and hold water to moisturize the skin.

This ingredient is most commonly found in a popular trio called Aquaxyl. Aquaxyl is made up of anhydroxylitol (24 - 34%), xylitylglucoside (35 - 50%), and xylitol (5 - 15%).

According to a manufacturer, Aquaxyl is known for a 3-D hydration concept and an anti-dehydration shield to reinforce the outer layer of skin.

This ingredient is often derived from plants such as wood and sugarcane.

Learn more about Anhydroxylitol

Polyglyceryl-3 Beeswax isn't fungal acne safe.

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse. 

It is a:

  • Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  • Emollient, helping to soften skin
  • Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  • Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives 
Antioxidant

Hydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.

This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Xylitol is a humectant and prebiotic. It can help with dry skin.

In studies, xylitol has been shown to improve dry skin. It decreased transepidermal water loss, or when water passes through the skin and evaporates. Xylitol also showed to help improve the biomechanical properties of the skin barrier.

The prebiotic property of xylitol may also help reinforce our skin's natural microbiome. Having a healthy microbiome prevents infection by bad bacteria and helps with hydration.

As a humectant, Xylitol helps draw moisture from both the air and from deeper skin layers. This helps keep skin hydrated.

Xylitol is a sugar alcohol and commonly used as a sugar substitute. It is naturally occurring in plants such as strawberries and pumpkin.

Learn more about Xylitol

Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.

As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.

Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.

Learn more about Methylpropanediol
Solvent

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin. 

It’s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Learn more about Propanediol
Humectant

Glucose is a simple sugar and is the most important source of energy in all organisms.

In skincare, glucose is used to hydrate the skin. It also acts as a prebiotic for our natural biome.

Glucose is hydrating due to its humectant property. As a humectant, glucose draws moisture from the air and from deeper levels in the skin.

Our skin contains many sugars that act as prebiotics and help strengthen our natural microbiome. Having a healthy microbiome helps protect our skin from harmful bacteria and other contaminants.

Studies show glucose may help with fading discoloration and pigmentation. This is because our skin metabolizes glucose into lactic acid. Lactic acid is an AHA that helps exfoliate the top layer of skin.

Learn more about Glucose
Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum
Humectant, Solvent

Ethoxydiglycol is a synthetic solvent.

Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.

Ethoxydiglycol also helps deliver other key ingredients into the skin.

Learn more about Ethoxydiglycol

We don't have a description for Disodium Azelate yet.

Skin Conditioning

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.

Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.

In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.

Learn more about Adenosine
Emulsifying

Sorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer and cleaning agent. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.

As an emulsifier, Sorbitan Isostearate prevents oils and water from separating.

Due to its isostearic acid base, it may not be safe for Malassezia or fungal acne.

Learn more about Sorbitan Isostearate
Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin (we can't pronounce this either) is commonly used as a preservative and skin softener. It is derived from glyceryl.

You might see Ethylhexylglycerin often paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol. Ethylhexylglycerin has been found to increase the effectiveness of these other preservatives.

Cleansing, Emulsifying

Sodium Laurate is the sodium salt of lauric acid. It is a cleansing and emulsifying ingredient.

Emulsifiers help prevent ingredients such as water and oils from separating.

Absorbent

We don't have a description for Cyclodextrin yet.

Cleansing, Emulsifying

Lauric Acid is a fatty acid or lipid. About half of fatty acids in coconut oil is lauric acid.

This ingredient helps hydrate and sooth skin. As a humectant, it helps trap moisture. It also aids in cleaning and enhancing the texture of products.

Lauric acid may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal acne, safe.

Learn more about Lauric Acid
Absorbent, Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising

Sodium Polyacrylate is the sodium salt of polyacrylic acid. It is used as an absorber, emollient, and stabilizer.

This ingredient is a super-absorbent polymer - meaning it can absorb 100 to 1000 times its mass in water. As an emollient, Sodium Polyacrylate helps soften and soothe skin. Emollients work by creating a barrier to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Pvp
Emulsion Stabilising

Pvp is a water-soluble synthetic polymer and common hairstyling ingredient. It is a film-forming ingredient and used to "hold" specific shapes of hair.

Pvp is less effective in high-humidity. It tends to draw moisture, but this moisture dismantles the structure and "hold".

Emulsion Stabilising

We don't have a description for Pvm/Ma Copolymer yet.

Emollient, Masking

Octyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol. It is primarily used to enhance the texture of products.

As an emulsifier, Octyldodecanol helps prevent the oils and waters from separating. It also prevents ingredients from creating foam when shaken.

Octyldodecanol is created by reducing fatty acid to an alcohol.

Due to its high molecular weight, it does not get absorbed into the skin.

Learn more about Octyldodecanol
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Glycolide yet.

Skin Conditioning

Caffeine is most associated with coffee, tea, and cacao. In skincare, it helps with calming inflammation and is rich in antioxidants.

While caffeine is used to treat cellulite and and dark circles, further studies are needed to prove this. It has been believed to help with these skin conditions due to its ability to dilate blood vessels and increase blood flow.

Some studies are looking into caffeine's ability to protect against UV rays.

Learn more about Caffeine
Emulsifying

We don't have a description for C12-13 Alketh-9 yet.

Moisturising, Skin Conditioning

Collagen amino acids are naturally found in the outermost layer of your skin.Your body uses amino acids to build collagen and elastin.

Due to their tiny size, amino acids are able to be absorbed into the skin. They mostly play a role in keeping your skin hydrated and reinforcing your NMF (natural moisturizing factors).

Skin Conditioning

Ceramide EOS is a type of Ceramide.

Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin.

Ceramide EOS is a synthetic N-acylated sphingolipid consisting of Sphingosine having the D-erythro structure linked to an esterified omega-hydroxy saturated or unsaturated fatty acid

Learn more about Ceramide Eos
Antioxidant, Skin Protecting

Resveratrol is a famous emerging antioxidant. It is a good alternative for sensitive skin types who cannot tolerate retinoids.

This antioxidant is most famous for it's anti-aging benefits. Studies show it combats the signs of aging by:

Besides anti-aging, this ingredient also helps with skin brightening and soothing.

The most effective forms of resveratrol are isobutyrate and butyrate. These have the strongest effect on increasing A1 collagen and reducing inflammation.

A note on it being a retinoid alternative: Despite it's amazing skin benefits, it is not a replacement for retinoids. However, it is recommended for people with sensitive skin or intolerance to retinoids.

Resveratrol is naturally found in grapes, peanuts, and berries.

Learn more about Resveratrol
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Arginine is an amino acid that is important for human development. Your body uses is it to produce hair keratin and skin collagen.

As a cosmetic ingredient, Arginine has antioxidant properties and can also help repair damaged skin. This ingredient is derived either synthetically or from animals.

Arginine isn't fungal acne safe when used in the presence of other lipids (fats, fatty acids, oils, esters, etc). Oils and fats occur naturally within the skin, so take caution when using Arginine if you're prone to fungal acne.

Learn more about Arginine
Humectant, Solvent

Glycol isn't fungal acne safe.

Skin Conditioning

Ectoin is a compound found naturally in some species of bacteria. It can be synthetically created for skincare use.

This ingredient is an osmolyte; Osmolytes help organisms survive osmotic shock (it protects them from extreme conditions). It does this by influencing the properties of biological fluids within cells.

When applied to the skin, ectoin helps bind water molecules to protect our skin. The water forms a sort of armor for the parts of our skin cells, enzymes, proteins, and more.

Besides this, ectoin has many uses in skincare:

A study from 2004 found ectoin to counteract the damage from UV-A exposure at different cell levels. It has also been shown to protect skin against both UV-A, UV-B rays, infrared light, and visible light.

Studies show ectoin to have dual-action pollution protection: first, it protects our skin from further pollution damage. Second, it helps repair damage from pollution.

In fact, ectoin has been shown to help with:

Fun fact: In the EU, ectoin is used in inhalation medication as an anti-pollution ingredient.

Ectoin is a highly stable ingredient. It has a wide pH range of 1-9. Light, oxygen, and temperature do not affect this ingredient.

Learn more about Ectoin
Buffering

We don't have a description for Taurine yet.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Elastin yet.

Skin Conditioning

Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.

Why is retinol famous?

It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.

Retinol is proven to:

This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.

Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).

Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.

We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.

Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.

Read about Tretinoin

Learn more about Retinol
Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide. It is derived from starch such as rice, corn, wheat, or potato starch.

In food, Maltodextrin is used to improve the texture and thicken a product. Due to its structure, it can help create a gel texture. As an emulsion stabilizer, it helps keep the ingredients in a product together.

As a polysaccharide, Maltodextrin has moisturizing properties. Polysaccharides are a type of carbohydrate. The top layer of skin uses polysaccharides to retain water, keeping the skin hydrated.

Maltodextrin is water soluble and has a sweet taste.

Learn more about Maltodextrin
Skin Conditioning

Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.

Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.

Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.

Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.

More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:

Learn more about Phytosphingosine
Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Sucrose Stearate is derived from stearic acid and sucrose (sugar). It is an emollient and emulsifier.

As an emulsifier, it prevents oils and water from separating in a product. This property also makes it a surfactant and therefore a cleansing agent.

Skin Conditioning

Sodium DNA is an emerging anti-aging ingredient.

It is created by taking deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) and purifying it with sodium hydroxide.

The DNA is extracted from several different animal sources, including: calf thymus, the gonadic tissue of a male sturgeon, or herring / salmon sperm.

You have probably seen this ingredient in anti-aging skincare. But what is it?

DNA is composed of nucleotides, or chemical building blocks. Nucleotides include adenine (A), thymine (T), guanine (G), and cytosine (C). Talk about a flashback to biology! Nucleosides are formed from these nucleotides.

The science behind Sodium DNA is based on an ingredient called Polydeoxyribonucleotide or PDRN.

PDRN are DNA fragments mainly extracted from the sperm cells of trout or salmon. Meaning, PDRN can be derived from Sodium DNA.

PDRN consists of chains of nucleotides and nucleosides mentioned above. They can range anywhere from 80 - 2000 pairs.

Studies show PDRN has the following properties:

Further studies are needed to truly confirm this ingredients anti-aging ability (Remember, retinol has decades of research!).

When using this ingredient, is is best to ask a brand about the source of their Sodium DNA. You'll want to find products where the Sodium DNA is sourced from fish. Some Sodium DNA is derived from calf / cow thymus.

Learn more about Sodium Dna
Skin Conditioning

Cyanocobalamin is the manufactured version of vitamin B12. It has skin soothing, antioxidant, and barrier protecting properties. Topical cyanocobalamin is used to treat skin irritation and atopic dermatitis.

Buffering, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is an amino acid that helps build proteins and moisturizes skin. It is already present in our skin as our bodies produce them naturally.

Glycine already plays a role in helping keep our skin moisturized as amino acids transport moisture throughout our skin.

As collagen is made up of glycine and other amino acids, it is believed glycine may help our skin produce more collagen.

Learn more about Glycine
Humectant

Glutamic Acid is an amino acid that is found in all living organisms. Our bodies use this to help nerve cells in the brain communicate with other cells.

In cosmetics, glutamic acid is a famous humectant. It draws water from the air to your skin, keeping your skin hydrated (like hyaluronic acid).

An in-vitro study from 2024 found glutamic acid to play a role in inhibiting inflammation and thus a potential skin-soothing ingredient.

Other studies show it to be have potential wound healing, skin barrier repair, and hair growth properties.

Glutamic acid has poor solubility in water and other solvents.

Learn more about Glutamic Acid
Skin Conditioning

Helianthus Annuus Seed is also known as sunflower seeds.

Sunflowers are rich in vitamin E. Studies show sunflowers contain antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.

The fatty acids found in sunflowers include (from highest amount to least): linoleic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.

Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed
Humectant

Polyglycerin-3 is a 3-unit glycerin polymer.

Like glycerin, this ingredient is a humectant. Humectants help hydrate your skin by drawing water to it.

Having moisturized skin helps improve the skin barrier. Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.

Learn more about Polyglycerin-3
Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.

Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.

Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.

You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.

There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.

Learn more about Tocopherol
Skin Conditioning

Artemisia Vulgaris Extract is more commonly known as the common mugwort. It has strong antioxidant properties and helps soothe irritation.

Antioxidants protect skin from damage and the signs of aging.

This plant contains the compounds saponins, glycosides, flavanoids, protein, triterpenoids.

The common wugwort has been used in traditional Indian, Chinese, and European medicines to treat gastrointestinal diseases.

Learn more about Artemisia Vulgaris Extract
Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Smoothing

Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract comes from the vanilla orchid native to central America. It is a skin-soothing ingredient.

This ingredient is skin-soothing and contains polyphenols that give it antioxidant properties.

This ingredient is not known to sensitize or irritate skin (unlike Vanilla Tahitensis). Vanilla tahitensis has shown to irritate skin in low amounts.

Learn more about Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

Olea Europaea Fruit Oil is the fixed oil obtained from the ripe fruit of the Olive. In other words - olive oil.

The primary contents of olive oil are glycerides of the fatty acids linoleic, oleic and palmitic.

Olive oil also contains antioxidants such as Vitamin E. Antioxidants may help reduce signs of aging by fighting unstable free-radical molecules. It also contains Vitamins A (retinol), D, and K.

The squalene in olive oil makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin by trapping moisture in. This makes olive oil a great skin moisturizer.

Studies show olive oil to have antibacterial and antifungal properties in low concentrations. Another study found olive oil irritated sensitive oily skin. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.

Due to the fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Skin Conditioning

Orange Roughy Oil is an oil.

Masking, Perfuming, Tonic

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil.

Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because it contains linalool, a known allergen.

However, lavender essential oil has shown to have anti-inflammatory activity due to its prostanoid and histamine content. Its leaves also exhibit antibacterial properties.

More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.

Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.

Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is the oil from the bergamot orange. It is native to Italy.

This ingredient is used to add fragrance to products. It contains limonene, linalool, and linalyl acetate.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

When used topically, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is a photosensitizer due to its furanocoumarins. Photosensitizers make the skin and eyes much more sensitive to sunlight. Photosensitizers are linked to skin cancer.

However, more cosmetics using Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil are removing the furanocoumarins.

Bergamot oil was also found to have anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and antifungal properties.

Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Pelargonium Roseum Leaf Oil is a fragrance and is an oil.

Fruit Fly Larva Oil is an oil.

Skin Conditioning

Curcuma Aromatica Root Oil is an oil.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Abies Balsamea Bark Oil is an oil.

Rosa Centifolia Flower Oil is an oil.

Marmot Oil is an oil.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil is an essential oil made from the Damask Rose. It is often used as a fragrance in cosmetics.

Rose Oil has antibacterial and antioxidant properties due to its terpene, glycoside, flavonoid, anthocyanin, and Vitamin C content.

Other major parts of Rose Oil include citronellol and geraniol. Both of these are known EU allergens and cause contact-allergies.

The downsides of this ingredient outweight the positives.

Learn more about Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Masking, Tonic

Geranium Maculatum Oil is an oil.

Myroxylon Pereirae Resin can cause irritation.

Perfuming

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Learn more about Linalool
Perfuming, Solvent

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Limonene
Masking, Perfuming

Pinus Mugo Leaf Oil is a fragrance and is an oil. It can cause irritation.

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· Updated December 10, 2024 Added by Lapaki