AHC Beauty Safe On Light Sun Serum SPF50+ PA++++

AHC Beauty Safe On Light Sun Serum SPF50+ PA++++

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Overview

What it is

Sunscreen with 109 ingredients that contains arbutin, ceramides, ectoin, exfoliants, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, PHA, tranexamic acid, SPF and Vitamin C

Cool Features

It is vegan

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture

Free From

It doesn't contain any common allergens, parabens or sulfates

Fun facts

AHC Beauty is from South Korea. This product is used in 3 routines created by our community.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

What's inside

Ingredients List

54
38
17

Water

Skin Conditioning

Dibutyl Adipate

Emollient

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate

UV Filter
Chemical UV Filter Icon

Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine

Skin Conditioning
UV Protection IconChemical UV Filter Icon

Alcohol Denat.

Antimicrobial
Alcohol IconCan worsen Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Butyloctyl Salicylate

Skin Conditioning
Non-Reef-Safe Icon

Ethylhexyl Triazone

UV Absorber
UV Protection IconChemical UV Filter Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Eclipta Prostrata Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

Emollient
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Peucedanum Graveolens Extract

Tonic

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance Icon

Hibiscus Abelmoschus Seed Extract

Masking
Fragrance Icon

Thymus Serpyllum Extract

Skin Conditioning

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Cleansing

Alpha-Arbutin

Antioxidant
Arbutin IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate

Skin Protecting

Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract

Humectant

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

Humectant
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract

Skin Protecting

Xylitylglucoside

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Gossypium Herbaceum Extract

Skin Conditioning

Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract

Skin Conditioning

Xylitol

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Yeast Ferment Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cichorium Intybus Root Extract

Masking

Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Orthosiphon Stamineus Extract

Skin Conditioning

Thermus Thermophillus Ferment

Skin Conditioning

Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment

Antimicrobial

Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract

Astringent

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Thymus Vulgaris Leaf Extract

Skin Protecting

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Calamine

Absorbent

Chlorella Ferment

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Perilla Frutescens Extract

Skin Conditioning

Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning

Adenium Obesum Leaf Cell Extract

Masking

Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Extract

Perfuming
Fragrance Icon

Solidago Virgaurea Extract

Skin Conditioning

Soluble Collagen

Humectant
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Caprylyl Methicone

Skin Conditioning
Silicon Icon

Hexyl Laurate

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate

UV Absorber
UV Protection IconChemical UV Filter Icon

Polysilicone-15

UV Filter
Silicon IconChemical UV Filter Icon

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Pentylene Glycol

Skin Conditioning
Good for Barrier Repair Icon

Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2

Absorbent

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Silicon Icon

Silica

Abrasive
Exfoliant IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores Icon

Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide

Skin Conditioning

Hydroxyethyl Urea

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Isopropyl Myristate

Emollient
3-5 / 3 Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

Emulsion Stabilising

Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide

Skin Conditioning

Hydroxyacetophenone

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane

Silicon Icon

Trehalose

Humectant
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Propanediol

Solvent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Allantoin

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Albatrellus Confluens Extract

Humectant
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Citric Acid

Buffering
AHA IconHelps brighten skin IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Ascorbic Acid

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Madecassoside

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Ectoin

Skin Conditioning
Ectoin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Glutathione

Helps brighten skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Hydroxystearic Acid

Cleansing
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Panthenol

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Phenylethyl Resorcinol

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Tranexamic Acid

Astringent
Tranexamic Acid IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Palmitoyl Glycine

Cleansing

Ellagic Acid

Skin Conditioning
Good for Dark Spots Icon

4-T-Butylcyclohexanol

Masking
Fragrance IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Anhydroxylitol

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer

Skin Conditioning

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking
Coconut Derived IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Antimicrobial

Dipotassium Phosphate

Buffering

Acetyl Glutamine

Skin Conditioning

Cerium Oxide

Hydrogen Dimethicone

Silicon Icon

Triethoxycaprylylsilane

Silicon Icon

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid

Skin Conditioning

Biosaccharide Gum-4

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Ceramide NP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Maltodextrin

Absorbent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Gluconolactone

Skin Conditioning
PHA IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Polyhydroxystearic Acid

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Caprylyl Glycol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

Ascorbyl Palmitate

Antioxidant
2 / 0 Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Cellulose Gum

Emulsion Stabilising
0 / 0

Calcium Gluconate

Humectant

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Cleansing

Disodium EDTA

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Sodium Benzoate

Masking
Preservative Icon

Mica

Cosmetic Colorant

Water, Dibutyl Adipate, Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate, Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine, Alcohol Denat., Niacinamide, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Ethylhexyl Triazone, Butylene Glycol, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Peucedanum Graveolens Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Seed Extract, Thymus Serpyllum Extract, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Alpha-Arbutin, Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract, Xylitylglucoside, Gossypium Herbaceum Extract, Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract, Xylitol, Yeast Ferment Extract, Cichorium Intybus Root Extract, Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract, Orthosiphon Stamineus Extract, Thermus Thermophillus Ferment, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Calamine, Chlorella Ferment, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Perilla Frutescens Extract, Adansonia Digitata Seed Extract, Adenium Obesum Leaf Cell Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Extract, Solidago Virgaurea Extract, Soluble Collagen, Caprylyl Methicone, Hexyl Laurate, Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate, Polysilicone-15, 1,2-Hexanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Silica, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Hydroxyethyl Urea, Isopropyl Myristate, Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Hydroxyacetophenone, C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane, Trehalose, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Adenosine, Propanediol, Allantoin, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Albatrellus Confluens Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Citric Acid, Glycerin, Ascorbic Acid, Madecassoside, Ectoin, Glutathione, Hydroxystearic Acid, Panthenol, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, Tranexamic Acid, Palmitoyl Glycine, Ellagic Acid, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Anhydroxylitol, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dipotassium Phosphate, Acetyl Glutamine, Cerium Oxide, Hydrogen Dimethicone, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Ceramide NP, Maltodextrin, Gluconolactone, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Cellulose Gum, Calcium Gluconate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Benzoate, Mica

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Dibutyl Adipate is an emollient and solvent. It is created from butyl alcohol and adipic acid.

As a solvent, Dibutyl Adipate helps mix and disperse ingredients evenly.

Dibutyl Adipate is soluble in water and organic solvents. It does not absorb UV rays.

Learn more about Dibutyl Adipate

Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate (DHHB) is a chemical UV-A absorber. It is formulated for high UVA protection (320-400 nm).

DHHB is well-liked for:

DHHB has been approved by the EU, Japan, Taiwan, and South America for use up to 10%. Unfortunately, it has not been approved for use in the US or Canada due to slow regulatory processes.

This ingredient is soluble in oils, fats, and lipids.

Learn more about Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate
Skin Conditioning, UV Absorber, UV Filter

You might know this ingredient as Tinosorb S or Bemotrizinol. It is a UV filter that covers both UVA and UVB rays.

This ingredient has two peak UV absorption peaks ( 310 and 340 nm) and is able to absorb both UV-A and UV-B rays. This ingredient works by preventing UV rays from reaching and damaging your skin.

On top of that - it is highly photostable and helps prevent the photodegration of other sunscreen ingredients such as avobenzone.

Tinosorb S is allowed in the EU, Australia, Asia, Canada, and recently approved for use by the US in mid-2026.

Fun fact: Tinosorb S is the most effective UV absorber at maximum concentration (measured by SPF) permitted in the EU.

This ingredient is oil-soluble, so your oil-cleansers will take this right off at night.

Learn more about Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking

Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.

The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).

This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.

However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.

Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.

This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.

Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.

Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.

The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.

One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).

Also...

This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.

The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.

Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.

This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.

Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.

Learn more about Alcohol Denat.
Smoothing

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Learn more about Niacinamide
Skin Conditioning, Solvent, UV Filter

Butyloctyl Salicylate is a chemical UV filter structurally similar to octisalate. It is a photostabilizer, SPF booster, emollient and solvent. This ingredient helps evenly spread out ingredients.

According to a manufacturer, it is suitable for pairing with micro Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide, and pigments.

Photostabilizers help stabilize UV-filters and prevents them from degrading quickly.

Learn more about Butyloctyl Salicylate
UV Absorber, UV Filter

Ethylhexyl Triazone is a modern chemical sunscreen that protects from UV-B radiation.

It is the most effective of existing UV-B filters, as it provides the highest level of photo-stable absorption. It protects from the entire UV-B range (280 to 320nm), with it's highest level of protection at 314nm.

Ethylhexyl Triazone is oil soluble, oderless and colorless, which mean it is able to be incorporated into a variety of different formulations.

It is not currently available within the United States due to slow changing FDA regulations. Outside of the US, it is used in formulations at concentrations up to 5%.

Learn more about Ethylhexyl Triazone
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as Bhringaraj extract or False Daisy. It is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.

Research shows it has antioxidant properties; lab studies have found it can protect skin cells from UV-induced damage and help suppress inflammation.

There's also some interesting research on its potential to support hair growth by promoting the growth phase of the hair cycle.

Those with an allergy to plants in the daisy family may want to patch test this ingredient. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated otherwise.

Learn more about Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Skin Conditioning

Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract is extract from the neem plant.

The leaves of this tree contain flavonoids and polyphenols. These two compounds are antioxidants, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial. Further research is needed as to their effects when applied on skin.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil is a lightweight oil from the seeds of the Moringa oleifera tree. In cosmetics, it's an emollient that forms a light film to slow water loss and soften skin.

Its fatty acid composition is dominated by oleic acid (70-78%), with smaller amounts of behenic, palmitic, and stearic acids (this profile is actually pretty similar to olive oil).

Notably, this ingredient is oxidatively stable for an oil and resists going rancid as fast as other oils.

A small, in vivo study on 32 participants found a cream with this ingredient increased skin hydration with no reported skin irritation. It also found the tocopherol content gave it some antioxidant activity as well.

One thing to flag for fungal acne:
Because this oil is so high in oleic acid, Malassezia can use it as a food source and this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

For everyone else, this ingredient is well-tolerated and nourishing with a good safety track record.

Learn more about Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil

We don't have a description for Peucedanum Graveolens Extract yet.

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is the oil from the bergamot orange and is primarily used as a fragrance. It has a "fresh" and "bright orange" scent.

The main aroma compounds found in this ingredient are limonene (~27-52%), linalool (~2-22%), and linalyl acetate (~27-40%). These are known EU fragrance allergens.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

When used topically, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil is a photosensitizer due to the furanocoumarin content. Furanocoumarins absorb UV-A and cause phytophotodermatitis; this can look like redness, blistering, and lasting brown pigmentation on sun-exposed skin.

Due to this, this ingredient is capped at 0.4% in leave-on products applied to sun exposed skin.

Many modern formulas used a "furanocoumarin-free" version that sidesteps the phototoxicity issue, but still contains the fragrance allergens.

Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

Hibiscus Abelmoschus Seed Extract is a fragrance.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Thymus Serpyllum Extract yet.

Cleansing, Masking, Refreshing

Achillea Millefolium Extract comes from the yarrow plant. Yarrow is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids.

Antioxidant, Bleaching, Skin Conditioning

Alpha-Arbutin is made from hydroquinone and glucose. It may also be derived from the fermentation of soybeans.

This ingredient an antioxidant, meaning it helps protect your skin cells against damage.

Studies show this ingredient helps improve hyperpigmentation and fade discoloration.

Alpha-Arbutin may be used with other ingredients that help with hyperpigmentation. These ingredients include retinol, Vitamin C, niacinamide, and tranexamic acid.

Learn more about Alpha-Arbutin

We don't have a description for Crithmum Maritimum Callus Culture Filtrate yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as Indian Gooseberry or Amla Berry. It is skin hydrating and antioxidant rich.

Indian gooseberry is rich in antioxidants such as polyphenols, tannins, and vitamin C compounds.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil is the oil expressed from the seeds from the tea plant. This is the same plant we get green, black, and oolong tea from.

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil is rich in oleic acid. This makes it an effective moisturizer. By drawing moisture to the skin, Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil helps keep your skin hydrated.

Other components of Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil includes Vitamin E and polyphenols. These are antioxidants that may help slow down the signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals, or unstable molecules that can damage our skin cells.

Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil also has anti-inflammatory properties.

The seed oil comes from the dried kernels of the plant.

Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil

We don't have a description for Caesalpinia Spinosa Fruit Extract yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Xylitylglucoside is created from xylitol and glucose, two humectants.

Not surprisingly, this ingredient is also a humectant. It attracts and holds water in your skin, helping to maintain hydration.

This ingredient is most commonly found in a popular trio called Aquaxyl. Aquaxyl is made up of anhydroxylitol(24 - 34%), xylitylglucoside (35 - 50%), and xylitol (5 - 15%).

According to a manufacturer, Aquaxyl is known for a 3-D hydration concept and an anti-dehydration shield to reinforce the outer layer of skin.

Learn more about Xylitylglucoside
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Gossypium Herbaceum Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Kappaphycus Alvarezii Extract yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Xylitol is a humectant and prebiotic. It can help with dry skin.

In studies, xylitol has been shown to improve dry skin. It decreased transepidermal water loss, or when water passes through the skin and evaporates. Xylitol also showed to help improve the biomechanical properties of the skin barrier.

The prebiotic property of xylitol may also help reinforce our skin's natural microbiome. Having a healthy microbiome prevents infection by bad bacteria and helps with hydration.

As a humectant, Xylitol helps draw moisture from both the air and from deeper skin layers. This helps keep skin hydrated.

Xylitol is a sugar alcohol and commonly used as a sugar substitute. It is naturally occurring in plants such as strawberries and pumpkin.

Learn more about Xylitol
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Yeast Ferment Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as chicory root extract.

Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract comes from the vanilla plant now cultivated in the South Pacific.

This ingredient is known to sensitize and irritate skin.

If you are looking for a non-irritating vanilla, check out Vanilla Planifolia

Learn more about Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Orthosiphon Stamineus Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Thermus Thermophillus Ferment yet.

Antimicrobial, Antiseborrhoeic, Cleansing

This ingredient is a biosurfactant ferment made when the yeast Candida bombicola ferments glucose plus methyl rapeseedate. This kind of ferment is best known for producing sophorolipids (a family of glycolipid biosurfactants) which brands use as mild cleansing agents.

What it does;

Lab work on purified acidic sophorolipids suggests they can be less cytotoxic/irritating in skin-model testing than a common harsh surfactant (SLES) at the tested conditions.

By the way, the final cosmetic ingredient does not contain live yeast. Itโ€™s a processed fermentation-derived ingredient.

Learn more about Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
Astringent, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Mentha Suaveolens Leaf Extract yet.

Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

We don't have a description for Thymus Vulgaris Leaf Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract yet.

Absorbent, Skin Protecting

Calamine is a "pink powder" that is used to calm itchy or irritated skin. In official medical standards, calamine is basically almost all zinc oxide with a tiny bit of iron oxide added for the pink color.

Lab testing requires that itโ€™s at least 98% zinc oxide, which just means it has to be very pure and mostly zinc oxide.

In skincare, calamine can help relieve itches, calm skin, and absorb excess moisture/oil. This is why you'll often see it used for oozing rashes. Calamine is approved as a skin protectant active at 1-25% in US OTC drug products.

A big part of calamine's soothing effect comes from zinc oxide's protective properties. Since calamine can absorb excess moisture/oil, it might be drying for already dry skin types.

A review of topical medicament allergies notes that contact dermatitis from calamine isn't typically reported, but added actives in a formulation are known sensitizers.

Learn more about Calamine
Skin Conditioning

Chlorella Ferment isn't fungal acne safe.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

This ingredient comes from the stem of the Prickly Pear cactus. The stem is rich in polyphenols, a potent source of antioxidants. It is anti-aging and soothing properties.

Prickly Pear stem is made up mostly of water (85%). The rest is composed of skin nourishing compounds: protein, fiber, fatty acid, simple sugars, Vitamin C, and some minerals.

Polyphenols help mitigate the effects of aging. Studies show polyphenols protect the skin from oxidative stress, UV-induced damage, and inflammation.

Prickly pear is often compared to Aloe.

Learn more about Opuntia Ficus-Indica Stem Extract
Emollient, Skin Protecting, Tonic

Ginseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.

In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.

One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.

Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.

There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.

Most products use fresh or white ginseng because itโ€™s more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.

Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as โ€œPanax ginsengโ€ in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.

For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.

In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.

Learn more about Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Perilla Frutescens Extract yet.

Baobab seeds are rich in vitamins A, E, and D, giving it nice antioxidant properties.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Adenium Obesum Leaf Cell Extract yet.

Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

Eugenia Caryophyllus Bud Extract is a fragrance.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Solidago Virgaurea Extract yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Soluble collagen comes from animals and fish. It has a large molecule size, meaning it doesn't get absorbed into skin.

Instead, it sits on top of skin as a humectant to improve skin hydration. It has incredible water-binding properties and creates a water barrier on skin that prevents evaporation.

This ingredient is incredibly gentle and often used to counter more irritating ingredients.

While our skin does have collagen, this ingredient is not used by the skin for anti-aging. Applying collagen topically has not been linked to helping with collagen loss in skin. All the benefits of soluble collagen are related to hydration.

Fun fact: The name "soluble collagen" refers to its ability to dissolve in water.

Learn more about Soluble Collagen
Skin Conditioning

Caprylyl Methicone is a synthetic and lightweight silicone fluid. It gives products a silky, dry-touch finish without the heaviness of pure oils.

Though the EU CosIng Database lists this ingredient as a skin conditioner, it is also used for sensory reasons. It spreads easily, cuts greasiness, and reduces tackiness.

This ingredient is volatile which means it will mostly evaporate (but it evaporates slower than older cyclomethicones, like Cyclotetrasiloxane).

Typical concentration ranges from 1-30% depending on if it's being used to tweak the feel of a product or acting as the main emollient.

Learn more about Caprylyl Methicone
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Hexyl Laurate isn't fungal acne safe.

UV Absorber, UV Filter

Amiloxate is a chemical sunscreen absorber. It mainly protects against UV-B rays (290-320 nm) but offers a bit of UV-A protection (320-340 nm).

This ingredient is available in the EU (up to 10%) and Asia. However, it has not yet been approved in the US or Canada.

It is created from isoamyl alcohol and methoxycinnamic acid.

Studies show the structural similarities between this ingredient and cinnamic acid give it anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. In fact, it is believed amiloxate works by scavenging free-radical molecules from UV.

One animal study found this ingredient was not absorbed or able to penetrate through skin.

Learn more about Isoamyl P-Methoxycinnamate
UV Filter

Polysilicone-15 is a chemical UV filter that absorbs UV-B rays.

It is a photostable ingredient used to boost SPF factor and protect products from UV-induced deterioration.

This ingredient is not water-soluble.

Learn more about Polysilicone-15
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.ย 

It is a:

  • Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  • Emollient, helping to soften skin
  • Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  • Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesย 
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Pentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.

The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.

This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.

Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.

Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.

Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.

Learn more about Pentylene Glycol

We don't have a description for Sodium Acrylates Crosspolymer-2 yet.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.

When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.

If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.

Learn more about Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Abrasive, Absorbent

Silica, also known as silicon dioxide, is a naturally occurring mineral. It is used as a fine, spherical, and porous powder in cosmetics.

Though it has exfoliant properties, the function of silica varies depending on the product.

The unique structure of silica enhances the spreadability and adds smoothness, making it a great texture enhancer.

It is also used as an active carrier, emulsifier, and mattifier due to its ability to absorb excess oil.

In some products, tiny microneedles called spicules are made from silica or hydrolyzed sponge. When you rub them in, they lightly polish away dead skin layers and enhance the penetration of active ingredients.

Learn more about Silica
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Hydroxyethyl Urea comes from urea. It is a great moisturizer and often compared to glycerin.

The manufacturer claims hydroxyethyl urea is not sticky or tacky, so no modifier ingredients are needed to adjust how it feels on skin.

Emollient, Masking

Isopropyl Myristate is an ester made by combining isopropyl alcohol with myristic acid.

It is primarily an emollient and penetration enhancer that gives products a lightweight, silky feel without the heaviness of oils.

This ingredient is generally considered non-toxic, non-irritating, and has low absorption potential.

You might have heard that this ingredient clogs pores. This reputation comes from the older rabbit ear studies which are more sensitive than human skin to clogging.

Dermatologist Dr. Zoe Draelos has also confirmed in a peer-reviewed paper that products containing comedogenic ingredients are not necessarily comedogenic themselves.

A small subset of people (~2%) may experience contact sensitivity so patch testing is a reasonable idea if you have reactive skin.

Since this ingredient is an ester of myristic acid (a C14 fatty acid), it falls within the carbon chain range that is known to feed Malassezia. This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Isopropyl Myristate

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate is a polymer and used to help stabilize other ingredients.

Emulsion stabilizers hold ingredients together, helping to create an even texture throughout the product.

Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate can also be used to thicken the texture.

Learn more about Sodium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate

We don't have a description for Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide yet.

Antioxidant

Hydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.

Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.

This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.

Learn more about Hydroxyacetophenone

C30-45 Alkyldimethylsilyl Polypropylsilsesquioxane is a type of silicone.

Humectant, Moisturising

Trehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.

As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.

In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.

Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.

Learn more about Trehalose

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.

Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:

Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.

Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Skin Conditioning

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.

Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.

In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.

Learn more about Adenosine
Solvent

Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.ย 

Itโ€™s often used to:

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Learn more about Propanediol
Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Soothing

Allantoin is a soothing ingredient known for its protective and moisturizing properties; it's basically a quiet workhorse ingredient you can find in a huge range of cosmetics.

Though it can be derived from the comfrey plant, allantoin is produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Research shows it can encourage your skin cells to turn over and renew by stimulating keratinocyte and fibroblast proliferation.

It also has mild keratolytic properties to help loosen and shed dead skin cells without being harsh.

Studies also suggest allantoin can help calm inflammation by dialing down some of the chemical signals your skin sends out when it is irritated.

This ingredient is typically used in the 0.1-0.5% range, and the FDA recognizes it as a skin protectant in OTC products up to 2%.

Overall, allantoin is a wonderful addition to most routines; it is stable across a wide pH range (~4-8), works well with other ingredients, and is considered non-sensitizing/non-irritating.

Fun fact: Allantoin is naturally occurring in comfrey root, beets, chamomile, and wheat sprouts. Our bodies even produce it as a byproduct of uric acid metabolism.

Learn more about Allantoin
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Biosaccharide Gum-1 is a sugar created by fermenting sorbitol (which usually comes from potato starch!). It is known for its soothing and moisturizing properties.

Manufacturer tests show this ingredient helped reduce irritation from lactic acid by almost half and kept skin hydrated long-term as a humectant

Beyond hydration, Biosaccharide Gum-1 gives formulas a silky, non-sticky feel.

This ingredient is gentle, versatile, and suitable for all skin types.

Fun fact: Similar sugars can be found naturally in fruits like apples and pears.

Learn more about Biosaccharide Gum-1
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Albatrellus Confluens Extract is from a mushroom from Finland, known as the Nothern Truffle (this mushroom is edible!). It has skin soothing and antioxidant properties.

This ingredient decreases redness and irritation by blocking the signals that trigger inflammation.

Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Learn more about Ethylhexylglycerin
Buffering, Masking

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Learn more about Citric Acid
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Antioxidant, Buffering, Masking

Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.

Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:

Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.

One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.

While vitamin C doesnโ€™t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.

The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.

Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin wonโ€™t keep absorbing more once itโ€™s full of vitamin C. This is why more isnโ€™t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations donโ€™t necessarily give extra benefits.

Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.

Learn more about Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Madecassoside is one of four active compounds found in Centella asiatica and is one of the main reasons Centella is so effective at calming irritated skin and supporting the moisture barrier.

There's a solid body of peer-reviewed research backing Madecassoside for several skin benefits. Studies have found:

Madecassoside pairs well with other hydrating or antioxidant ingredients like Ascorbic Acid or Hyaluronic Acid.

Learn more about Madecassoside
Skin Conditioning

Ectoin is a compound found naturally in some species of bacteria. It can be synthetically created for skincare use.

This ingredient is an osmolyte; Osmolytes help organisms survive osmotic shock (it protects them from extreme conditions). It does this by influencing the properties of biological fluids within cells.

When applied to the skin, ectoin helps bind water molecules to protect our skin. The water forms a sort of armor for the parts of our skin cells, enzymes, proteins, and more.

Besides this, ectoin has many uses in skincare:

A study from 2004 found ectoin to counteract the damage from UV-A exposure at different cell levels. It has also been shown to protect skin against both UV-A, UV-B rays, infrared light, and visible light.

Studies show ectoin to have dual-action pollution protection: first, it protects our skin from further pollution damage. Second, it helps repair damage from pollution.

In fact, ectoin has been shown to help with:

Fun fact: In the EU, ectoin is used in inhalation medication as an anti-pollution ingredient.

Ectoin is a highly stable ingredient. It has a wide pH range of 1-9. Light, oxygen, and temperature do not affect this ingredient.

The chemical name for this ingredient is Tetrahydromethylpyrimidine Carboxylic Acid.

Learn more about Ectoin

Glutathione is an antioxidant naturally found in our bodies. It is made up of three amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid.

As an antioxidant, it prevents oxidative damage to parts of our cell.

While glutathione is said to help with fading dark spots, the results from research are inconclusive. Further studies are needed. With that said, gluthatione has been shown to protect our skin from UV-B induced damage.

This ingredient is naturally occurring in plants, animals, fungi, and some bacteria.

Learn more about Glutathione
Cleansing, Emulsifying, Surfactant

Hydroxystearic Acid (HSA) is a wax-like fatty acid. It is a surfactant, emollient, and emulsifier.

Surfactants are cleansing ingredients. They reduce the surface tension of dirt and grime to be removed easily.

HSA is an emulsifier in certain formulations. Emulsifiers prevent ingredients from separating.

This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal acne, safe.

Learn more about Hydroxystearic Acid
Skin Conditioning

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Learn more about Panthenol

Phenylethyl Resorcinol (PR) is a synthetic antioxidant and tyrosinase inhibitor. This ingredient is found naturally in pine trees.

What is a tyrosinase inhibitor?

Tyrosinase is an enzyme that plays a key role in melanin production, which leads to skin darkening when exposed to UV light. By inhibiting this enzyme, PR can help with skin brightening and lifting dark spots.

The manufacturer states 0.5% of PR is more effective than 1% kojic acid. In 2013, a study of 80 participants found combining PR with other skin-brightening ingredients found 57% showed moderate improvement and 17% saw no change. Another study with 20 women reported a 43% reduction in uneven skin tone.

While more research is needed to fully confirm PR's efficacy, thereโ€™s no harm in trying it - especially when combined with other proven skin-brightening ingredients.

Learn more about Phenylethyl Resorcinol
Astringent, Skin Conditioning

Tranexamic Acid (TXA) is a synthetic lysine derivative that is becoming one of the most exciting brightening ingredients in skincare.

Originally used in medicine as an anti-hemorrhagic agent, its skin brightening potential was discovered by accident; patients taking it orally started noticing their melasma was fading.

Unlike most brighteners that target tyrosinase (the enzyme that synthesizes melanin), TXA works further upstream. It basically blocks your cells from receiving the signal to produce pigment.

This makes it one of the rare actives that works on three pathways at once:

This makes it effective for treating melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), and sun-induced dark spots.

The most effective cosmetic concentration sits between 2-5% and going higher doesn't boost results.

Side effects are generally mild; occasional irritation, flaking, or dryness have been reported at the start of use. Overall, this ingredient is pretty well tolerated, even by sensitive skin types.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it does not cause photosensitivity, so it's safe to use in the AM and PM.

Learn more about Tranexamic Acid
Cleansing

We don't have a description for Palmitoyl Glycine yet.

Skin Conditioning

Ellagic acid is an antioxidant found in pomegranates, raspberries, strawberries, and nuts. It mainly acts as a brightening agent and antioxidant in cosmetics.

By interrupting the enzyme that kicks off melanin production (tyrosinase), it slows down how much new pigment your skin makes. It's antioxidant side helps by neutralizing UV-generated reactive oxygen species and also activates the skin's own defense pathway.

Studies show interesting results:

It's also worth nothing that none of these studies reported adverse effects from this ingredient.

You'll often see this ingredient paired with specific solvents or encapsulated because it is poorly water soluble (this limits bioavailability).

Learn more about Ellagic Acid
Masking, Perfuming, Soothing

4-T-Butylcyclohexanol has skin soothing and perfuming/masking properties.

A study from 2016 found it to have skin-soothing properties both in-vivo and in-vitro. It works by intercepting the signals of irritation and can soothe the skin in a few minutes.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient has a scent similar to musk or patchouli. Besides having a skin soothing effect, it can also help cover other unpleasant scents as a masking ingredient.

Learn more about 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is created from dehydrating xylitol in acidic conditions. Xylitol is a famous sugar and humectant.

Much like its predecessor, anhydroxylitol is a humectant. Humectants attract and hold water to moisturize the skin.

This ingredient is most commonly found in a popular trio called Aquaxyl. Aquaxyl is made up of anhydroxylitol (24 - 34%), xylitylglucoside (35 - 50%), and xylitol (5 - 15%).

According to a manufacturer, Aquaxyl is known for a 3-D hydration concept and an anti-dehydration shield to reinforce the outer layer of skin.

This ingredient is often derived from plants such as wood and sugarcane.

Learn more about Anhydroxylitol

This ingredient is a combination of two AHAs, lactic acid and glycolic acid. It has exfoliating properties

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientโ€™s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Antimicrobial, Emollient, Skin Conditioning

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is made up of Benzoic Acid and long chain alcohols. It has a low molecular weight.

C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate is an emollient and texture enhancer. Due to its solubility, it is often used in sunscreens to help evenly distribute active ingredients.

As an emollient, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate helps soften and hydrate your skin. Emollients create a film on your skin that traps moisture within.

This ingredient has been reported to cause eye irritation.

Learn more about C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate

Dipotassium Phosphate is an inorganic salt. This just means it has a different structure than organic salts. It is a stabilizing and pH adjusting ingredient.

This ingredient is soluble in water.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Acetyl Glutamine yet.

We don't have a description for Cerium Oxide yet.

Hydrogen dimethicone is a silicone-based ingredient. It is mainly used to alter the texture and spread of a product without adding "stickiness".

Triethoxycaprylylsilane is a silicon-based surface modifier that makes sunscreens feel silky and makeup stay put.

Its main job is to coat mineral particles like titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, and color pigments in a thin, oily layer so they spread smoothly, don't clump, and stick to skin better.

This ingredient is typically used at low levels (up to 2.5% in eyeshadow and 1% in lipstick).

Learn more about Triethoxycaprylylsilane
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Learn more about Hydrogenated Lecithin

We don't have a description for Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid yet.

Skin Conditioning

This is a fermented gum derived from sorbitol, a sugar alcohol.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient's high molecular weight makes it an effective emollient.

Emollients help keep the skin hydrated by preventing water from evaporating.

Learn more about Biosaccharide Gum-4
Skin Conditioning

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Learn more about Ceramide NP
Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide. It is derived from starch such as rice, corn, wheat, or potato starch.

In food, Maltodextrin is used to improve the texture and thicken a product. Due to its structure, it can help create a gel texture. As an emulsion stabilizer, it helps keep the ingredients in a product together.

As a polysaccharide, Maltodextrin has moisturizing properties. Polysaccharides are a type of carbohydrate. The top layer of skin uses polysaccharides to retain water, keeping the skin hydrated.

Maltodextrin is water soluble and has a sweet taste.

Learn more about Maltodextrin
Skin Conditioning

Gluconolactone is a PHA. PHAs are a great gentle alternative to traditional AHAs.

When applied, Gluconolactone has the same affect on skin as AHAs such as lactic acid. It helps dissolve the dead skin cells in the top layer of your skin. This improves texture and brightens the skin.

PHAs are more gentle than AHAs due to their larger structure. They do not penetrate as deeply as AHAs and take a longer time to dissolve dead cells. Studies show PHAs do not cause as much irritation.

Gluconolactone has some interesting properties:

In a 2004 study, Gluconolactone was found to prevent UV damage in mouse skin cells and has not been found to increase sun sensitivity. However, we still recommend wearing SPF daily.

This ingredient is is an created by reacting gluconic acid with an alcohol.

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Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.

You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.

Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.

The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.

Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic Acid
Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Learn more about Caprylyl Glycol
Antioxidant, Masking

Ascorbyl Palmitate is a fat-soluble form of vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid) made by combining it with palmitic acid.

It is able to blend easily into creams and oil-based formulas because it dissolves in oils rather than water.

As you may know, regular vitamin C is notorious for breaking down when exposed to sunlight and air. Ascorbyl Palmitate is more stable and degrades at a slower rate.

Research on whether it converts efficiently into active vitamin C once it's applied on your skin is still limited.

Some in-vitro studies suggest it may support collagen production, but it is not considered one of the stronger vitamin C derivatives, like:

Due to the palmitic acid base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Comedogenic studies have also shown this ingredient to have a rating of 2.

It's also worth keeping in mind that comedogenic and irritancy ratings are tested on individual ingredients, not finished formulas. The final product's formulation, concentration, and other ingredients all play a role in how something actually behaves on your skin.

Learn more about Ascorbyl Palmitate
Emulsion Stabilising, Masking

Cellulose Gum is a water-soluble polymer that comes from cellulose. It is used to change the texture of a product and to help stabilize emulsions.

As an emulsifier, cellulose gum specifically thicken the texture of water-based products.

This ingredient is considered hypoallergenic and non-toxic. Cellulose Gum can be found in cosmetics, food, and other household goods such as paper products.

Learn more about Cellulose Gum
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is calcium salt of gluconic acid. It is a humectant, meaning it attracts water to your skin.

Cleansing, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.

As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.

This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.

Learn more about Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Learn more about Disodium EDTA
Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum
Masking, Preservative

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Learn more about Sodium Benzoate
Cosmetic Colorant

Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.

Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.

This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.

Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.

Learn more about Mica

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Where it's from

AHC Beauty is a Korean brand

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50 SPF Rating

With an SPF rating of 50, this product protects against 98.0% of UVB rays

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ยท Published July 2, 2022 Added by AngieZbinden