What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCoco-Caprylate
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingCoconut Alkanes
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPassiflora Edulis Seed Oil
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientSclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil
HumectantPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningBrassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract
HumectantBrassica Oleracea Italica Extract
AstringentTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantChrysin
Skin ConditioningPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningLinoleic Acid
CleansingLinolenic Acid
CleansingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningXanthophylls
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningJojoba Esters
EmollientPhysalis Pubescens Fruit Juice
Skin ConditioningStearyl Glycyrrhetinate
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningCetyl Palmitate
EmollientTrehalose
HumectantLauric Acid
CleansingSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingGlucosamine Hcl
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientPisum Sativum Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantBambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingTrideceth-6 Phosphate
EmulsifyingN-Hydroxysuccinimide
Skin ConditioningCeteareth-20
CleansingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingLaureth-23
CleansingSteareth-20
CleansingPropanediol
SolventChlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Chlorphenesin
AntimicrobialPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate, Stearic Acid, Coconut Alkanes, Glyceryl Stearate, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Passiflora Edulis Seed Oil, Retinol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Sclerocarya Birrea Seed Oil, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract, Brassica Oleracea Italica Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Chrysin, Persea Gratissima Oil, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Ceramide NP, Xanthophylls, Phytosphingosine, Phytosterols, Jojoba Esters, Physalis Pubescens Fruit Juice, Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate, Oryza Sativa Extract, Glycine Soja Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Cetyl Palmitate, Trehalose, Lauric Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Glucosamine Hcl, Tocopheryl Acetate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Pisum Sativum Extract, Tocopherol, Bambusa Vulgaris Leaf/Stem Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Carbomer, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Ceteareth-20, Sodium Hydroxide, Laureth-23, Steareth-20, Propanediol, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Polysorbate 20, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, Ethylhexylglycerin
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.7%
UV AbsorberHomosalate 6.3%
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Salicylate 4.05%
UV AbsorberOctocrylene 9%
UV AbsorberWater
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventIsononyl Isononanoate
EmollientMyristyl Nicotinate
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientEthylhexyl Isononanoate
EmollientCoco-Glucoside
CleansingPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingPrunus Persica Flower Extract
MoisturisingNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76
Skin ConditioningRetinol
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingBisabolol
AntioxidantBeta-Sitosterol
Emulsion StabilisingHibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract
Oryza Sativa Germ Extract
EmollientGlycine Soja Extract
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentDimethicone
EmollientBacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate
EmulsifyingGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingErythritol
HumectantGlucose
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantMethyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientSodium Acrylates Copolymer
Lecithin
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Caprylhydroxamic Acid
Polysilicone-11
Propyl Gallate
AntioxidantParfum
MaskingAminomethyl Propanol
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingBHT
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeAlpha-Isomethyl Ionone
PerfumingButyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane 2.7%, Homosalate 6.3%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 4.05%, Octocrylene 9%, Water, Propanediol, Isononyl Isononanoate, Myristyl Nicotinate, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Coco-Glucoside, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Prunus Persica Flower Extract, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Retinol, Beta-Glucan, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Bisabolol, Beta-Sitosterol, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Fruit Extract, Oryza Sativa Germ Extract, Glycine Soja Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Dimethicone, Bacillus/Sea Salt Ferment Filtrate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Gluconolactone, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Glycine Soja Oil, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polysorbate 20, Erythritol, Glucose, Pentylene Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Sodium Acrylates Copolymer, Lecithin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Polysilicone-11, Propyl Gallate, Parfum, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Xanthan Gum, Phenethyl Alcohol, Citric Acid, BHT, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.
The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.
On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.
Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.
Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilOryza Sativa Extract comes from the rice grain, Oryza sativa. Rice extract has wound healing, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties.
Rice grains contain numerous antioxidants which may help with anti-aging, such as vitamin E. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radical molecules. Unstable free-radical molecules may damage your skin cells and accelerate signs of aging.
A study from 2002 found rice to help increase the rate of wound healing. The same study found an improvement of skin barrier function in the patients after taking rice baths.
Numerous in-vitro studies have found rice water to help decrease sun damage by increasing collagen production and inhibiting the process of tyrosinase.
Long story short- tyrosinase is an enzyme that controls melanin production. Our bodies start producing melanin (AKA tanning) when exposed to UV radiation to protect against damage. Rice water is found to partially block this process.
Though more research is needed on rice's ability to help with UV protection, recent studies seem promising.
Wondering why rice is hydrating? The protein in rice have emollient properties. Emollients create a barrier on the skin to trap moisture in, keeping your skin moisturized.
Some rice extract may have mildly-exfoliating properties. These are mainly limited to Oryza Sativa (Rice) Bran and Oryza Sativa (Rice) Germ Powder.
This rice was first cultivated in China over 10,000 years ago. Many cultures throughout Asia have used rice water on skin and hair for centuries.
Learn more about Oryza Sativa ExtractPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRetinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water