What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningBis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientCeteth-20
CleansingPropanediol
SolventC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-5
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypeptide-15 Hexapeptide-40
Skin ConditioningAlcohol
AntimicrobialBakuchiol
AntimicrobialBHT
AntioxidantBidens Pilosa Extract
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCholesterol
EmollientCopper Sulfate
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Phosphate
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlucosamine Hcl
Glycerin
HumectantGlycolic Acid
BufferingGlycyrrhetinic Acid
Skin ConditioningGossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningHydrochloric Acid
BufferingLactic Acid
BufferingLinum Usitatissimum Seed Oil
PerfumingLycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
AstringentMandelic Acid
AntimicrobialNiacin
SmoothingNicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypedtide-7
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPotassium Phosphate
BufferingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeRetinal
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Cholate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTriethanolamine
BufferingTromethamine
BufferingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingZinc Chloride
AntimicrobialWater, Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Ceteth-20, Propanediol, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, Gluconolactone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-5, Nicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypeptide-15 Hexapeptide-40, Alcohol, Bakuchiol, BHT, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Carbomer, Ceramide AP, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cholesterol, Copper Sulfate, Dipotassium Phosphate, Disodium EDTA, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glucosamine Hcl, Glycerin, Glycolic Acid, Glycyrrhetinic Acid, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Hydrochloric Acid, Lactic Acid, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Mandelic Acid, Niacin, Nicotiana Benthamiana Sh-Polypedtide-7, Parfum, Phenoxyethanol, Phosphatidylcholine, Phytosphingosine, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Sorbate, Retinal, Retinyl Palmitate, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Cholate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hydroxide, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Tocopherol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Triethanolamine, Tromethamine, Xanthan Gum, Zinc Chloride
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantMethylpropanediol
Solvent1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPiper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPanax Ginseng Berry Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingArtemisia Capillaris Extract
Eclipta Prostrata Extract
Skin ConditioningMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningElaeis Guineensis Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientBakuchiol
AntimicrobialPalmitic Acid
EmollientSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentStearic Acid
CleansingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingRetinol 0.1%
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientBHT
AntioxidantCollagen
MoisturisingMyristic Acid
CleansingBHA
AntioxidantLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialTocopherol
AntioxidantBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Ferment
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Madecassoside
AntioxidantPropylene Glycol
HumectantPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningGlycolipids
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Peptide
Skin ConditioningResveratrol
AntioxidantSucrose Distearate
EmollientAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingParfum
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningWater, Cyclohexasiloxane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Root Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Extract, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Glyceryl Stearate, Bakuchiol, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Stearic Acid, Xanthan Gum, Retinol 0.1%, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Adenosine, Tromethamine, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Cetyl Alcohol, BHT, Collagen, Myristic Acid, BHA, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Tocopherol, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Ceramide NP, Saccharomyces Ferment, Retinal, Asiaticoside, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Madecassoside, Propylene Glycol, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Glycolipids, Glycine Soja Peptide, Resveratrol, Sucrose Distearate, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Polysorbate 20, Parfum, Ethylhexylglycerin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived antioxidant from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. It has antimicrobial, emollient, skin conditioning, and antioxidant properties.
You'll likely see it called a "retinol replacement" but the two are technically not related. This is because bakuchiol is able to flip many of the same switches in your skin cells to tell them to:
1) produce more collagen (type I, III, and IV)
2) activate the same genes retinoids do
Unlike retinoids, this ingredient will not increase photosensitivity and is safe to use during pregnancy (but please still check in with your doctor!).
The flagship clinical trial from Dhaliwal et al. 2019 found 0.5% bakuchiol (twice daily) and 0.5% retinol (once daily) reduced wrinkles and hyperpigmentation equally, but bakuchiol had significantly less irritation.
Systematic reviews also back this up:
Bakuchiol is comparable to retinol for photoaging but with better tolerability. It also has mild antibacterial properties against Cutibacterium acnes and antifungal activity in vitro against Candida and dermatophytes.
The reason bakuchiol works well is due to its structure; it is a meroterpene phenol, or a hybrid molecule. The phenol half acts as an antioxidant while the terpene half is fat-loving. This helps the molecule slip through the skin barrier.
This ingredient is usually used between 0.5-2%. Only one case of contact dermatitis has ever been reported for this ingredient.
Learn more about BakuchiolBHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPThis ingredient is also known as African Palm Oil. It is a plant-based emollient that is slightly occlusive leaning.
As an emollient, it helps moisturize the skin and supports the lipid barrier. Clinical testing found it improved skin hydration, reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL), and increased skin elasticity.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel has assessed the available safety data and found it to safe in cosmetics.
The comedogenic rating of 2/5 means it is low-to-moderate risk of pore clogging; please remember comedogenic ratings cannot predict how the overall formula will behave on skin.
Because its dominant fatty acids (palmitic and oleic acid) fall within the C11-24 range that Malassezia can use as a growth substrate, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Elaeis Guineensis OilEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPolysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.
What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.
Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.
Studies back up its efficacy in skin:
A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.
And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.
More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).
Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.
This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.
Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.
Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.
Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
Learn more about RetinalTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTocopheryl Acetate is a stable, shelf-friendly form of vitamin E.
Formulators love it because plain vitamin E oxidizes quickly once it hits air. This acetate version stays stable and resists going off, helping to extend a product's shelf life.
It's actually inactive on its own and works like a slow-release "storage" form; the enzymes in your skin called esterases gradually convert it into active vitamin E over time.
One in vivo study showed 5% of the acetate in the living layer of the epidermis converted to vitamin E after 5 days of application. This study also found the skin gained protection against UV damage even though the conversion was slow and small.
Once converted, vitamin E acts as a skin's main fat-soluble antioxidant that fights free radicals to protect skin from damage.
Topical vitamin E generally boosts the skin's photoprotection, and it reduced UV-damage in animal models.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
Overall, it has a pretty solid safety profile and has been found to be non-irritating and non-comedogenic. Allergic reactions may happen but stay rare due to how widely the ingredient gets used.
The concentration will vary depending on the formula; industry data shows 0.1% in baby lotions, 3% in lipsticks, and 5% in foot powders. You can also find this ingredient at 100% in a pure vitamin E oil.
Most leave-on skincare keeps it at the lower end, often between 0.5-1%.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateTromethamine (aka THAM) is a synthetic amino acid that shows up in skincare as a helper ingredient.
It functions as a pH adjuster to help neutralize acidic ingredients and set a formula's pH to the right spot.
This matters a lot because a lot of actives (like vitamin C) needs a specific pH to work well and feel comfortable on skin.
Concentration use ranges from 0.1-1.0% depending on the formula.
Learn more about TromethamineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum