Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Oligopeptide-1

This ingredient is a plant-grown version of a human epidermal growth factor (EGF). The "Sh-Oligopeptide-1" part is EGF; it is a small signaling protein your skin makes naturally.

The "Hexapeptide-40" is a little tag fused onto it and "Nicotiana Benthamiana" is the tobacco-relative plant used as a tiny factory to brew the protein (instead of yeast or bacteria, which are the other common methods).

In a formula, EGF acts like a messenger that tells skin cells to get busy: it encourages keratinocytes to divide/migrate, supports fibroblasts, and is best known for its role in wound healing.

EGF plays a pivotal role in wound healing and tissue maintenance by regulating cell survival, proliferation, migration, and differentiation; a lab-made recombinant human EGF has long been used to promote skin wound healing.

The current evidence is promising but modest at scale.

In one 3-month study of 29 women with photoaged skin, a topical EGF serum significantly improved brown pigmentation, skin texture, pore size, and wrinkles. A systematic review noted that recombinant EGF promotes migration of aged fibroblasts and increases hyaluronic acid + collagen synthesis.

The honest caveat is that EGF is a large, water-loving molecule so how well it penetrates intact skin is still debated and a lot of the strongest claims come from small or brand-run studies.

Typical use levels are very low and expressed in parts per million rather than percentages. Most cosmetic products land somewhere under 10 ppm (roughly 0.0001-0.001%).