Phosphatidylcholine
Explained
Phosphatidylcholine (PC) is a type of phospholipid, a class of molecule that makes up our own cell membranes.
It has a glycerol backbone, two fatty acid tails (mostly linoleic, palmitic, and oleic), and a phosphate-choline head group.
In skincare, PC pulls double duty:
- It acts as a barrier-supporting ingredient on its own
- Due to its skin-identical structure, it self assembles into liposomes that can move actives across the stratum corneum
The linoleic acid it carries gets incorporated into skin ceramides and helps reinforce the lipid matrix.
Interestingly, it can help top of the omega-6 fatty acid that's often low in acne-prone and atopic skin. There's a sizeable body of literature that supports its use in dry, barrier-impaired, and breakout-prone skin.
There are two kinds of PC you'll see on ingredient lists.
- Unsaturated PC is more fluid and delivers linoleic acid to the skin
- Hydrogenated PC helps soften the skin and is more oxidatively stable
Use levels range from <1% as a liposomal carrier and between 20-40% in lamellar matrix sytems.
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