Dr.Twentyproject Dualderm Galacvita C Auto Eye Cream

Dr.Twentyproject Dualderm Galacvita C Auto Eye Cream

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Overview

What it is

Eye moisturizer with 100 ingredients that contains arbutin, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, Vitamin C and Vitamin E

Cool Features

It is reef safe

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture

Free From

It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, parabens or sulfates

Fun facts

Dr.Twentyproject is from South Korea.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

What's inside

Ingredients List

62
26
12

Water

Skin Conditioning

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking
Coconut Derived IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Methylpropanediol

Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Methyl Trimethicone

Skin Conditioning
Silicon Icon

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

Emollient

Behenyl Alcohol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

Betaine

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Glyceryl Stearate

Emollient
1 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Palmitic Acid

Emollient
2 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Stearic Acid

Cleansing
2-3 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Tromethamine

Buffering

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

Cleansing

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Microcrystalline Cellulose

Absorbent

Dipropylene Glycol

Humectant

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water

Masking
Fragrance Icon

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate

Humectant
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Skin Protecting
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance Icon

Cetearyl Alcohol

Emollient
2 / 1 Fatty Alcohol IconCoconut Derived IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Polyquaternium-51

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Beta-Glucan

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cellulose Gum

Emulsion Stabilising
0 / 0

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Panax Ginseng Berry Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Fructooligosaccharides

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Glyceryl Stearate Se

Emulsifying
3 / 2 Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconEU Allergen Icon

Myristic Acid

Cleansing
3 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Cholesterol

Emollient
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Canarium Luzonicum Gum Nonvolatiles

Masking

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil Icon

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Perfuming
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Sea Water

Humectant

Ceramide NP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Ascorbic Acid

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Arbutin

Antioxidant
Arbutin IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Pentylene Glycol

Skin Conditioning
Good for Barrier Repair Icon

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract

Astringent

Glycine Max Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning

Ulmus Campestris Bark Extract

Astringent

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil

Masking
Oil Icon

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract

Astringent

Collagen Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Acetyl Glucosamine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Broussonetia Kazinoki Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Bacillus Ferment

Skin Conditioning
Good for Barrier Repair IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Lactobacillus Ferment

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Aspergillus Ferment

Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Morus Alba Bark Extract

Skin Conditioning

Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Glycine

Buffering
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Centella Asiatica Extract

Cleansing
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Serine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Glutamic Acid

Humectant
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Hydrolyzed Collagen

Emollient
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Hydrolyzed Elastin

Emollient

Galactoarabinan

Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Aspartic Acid

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Leucine

Skin Conditioning

Tricholoma Matsutake Extract

Skin Conditioning

Alanine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Lysine

Skin Conditioning

Arginine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Tyrosine

Masking

Phenylalanine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Valine

Masking

Threonine

Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Proline

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Rosa Damascena Flower Water

Masking
Helps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Isoleucine

Skin Conditioning

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil

Masking
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Histidine

Humectant
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Methionine

Skin Conditioning

Cysteine

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Citral

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Limonene

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Water, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Methylpropanediol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Methyl Trimethicone, Niacinamide, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Behenyl Alcohol, Betaine, Glyceryl Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Tromethamine, Carbomer, Butylene Glycol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Dipropylene Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Adenosine, Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Polyquaternium-51, Beta-Glucan, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Cellulose Gum, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Fructooligosaccharides, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Myristic Acid, Cholesterol, Pelargonium Graveolens Oil, Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract, Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract, Canarium Luzonicum Gum Nonvolatiles, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sea Water, Ceramide NP, Ascorbic Acid, Arbutin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Pentylene Glycol, Tocopherol, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Ulmus Campestris Bark Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil, Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract, Collagen Extract, Acetyl Glucosamine, Broussonetia Kazinoki Root Extract, Bacillus Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment, Aspergillus Ferment, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Glycine, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Galactoarabinan, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Tricholoma Matsutake Extract, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Isoleucine, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Linalool, Citral, Limonene

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.

It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.

Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientโ€™s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Methylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.

As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.

Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.

Learn more about Methylpropanediol
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.ย 

It is a:

  • Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  • Emollient, helping to soften skin
  • Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  • Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesย 

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is created from the diester of stearic acid and the condensation product of methylglucose and Polyglycerin-3.

As an emulsifier, it is used to bind ingredients together. Many ingredients, such as oils and water, separate naturally. Emulsifiers prevent them from separating to ensure even consistency in texture.

One of the manufacturer for this ingredient states it is vegetable-based. It is also claimed to be stable at both high and low temperatures.

This ingredient may not be safe for fungal acne. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Methyl Trimethicone is a type of silicone. It is a solvent and emulsifier.

Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.

Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. It does this by preventing certain ingredients from separating.

Methyl Trimethicone does not get absorbed into the skin.

Learn more about Methyl Trimethicone
Smoothing

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Learn more about Niacinamide
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Dicaprylyl Carbonate comes from carbonic acid and caprylyl alcohol, a fatty alcohol. It is an emollient and gives skin a velvet feel. The sources of Dicaprylyl Carbonate may be synthetic or from animals.

As an emollient, Dicaprylyl Carbonate creates a film on the skin. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising

Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).

Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.

Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.

In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.

Learn more about Behenyl Alcohol
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. Itโ€™s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Learn more about Betaine
Emollient, Emulsifying

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Emulsifying

Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources. In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.

Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.

The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.

In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.

It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.

Learn more about Palmitic Acid
Cleansing, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Stearic Acid

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate is an emollient ester.

As an emollient, it softens and hydrates your skin by locking moisture in. Its large, branched structure gives it a thick, cushiony feel without being greasy. This is why it shows up most often in lip balms, lipsticks, and other stick or balm formulas, where it adds gloss and helps hold waxes and pigments together.

The phytosterol portion is a nice extra. Phytosterols are plant-based lipids that are structurally similar to ones found naturally in skin, so they can help support the skin barrier.

Because this ingredient contains C16, C18, and C22 fatty chains, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on fatty acids in the C11-C24 range. If you're prone to flare-ups, you might want to patch-test or skip this one.

Learn more about Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Buffering, Masking

Tromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.

As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.

Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.

1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-

Learn more about Tromethamine
Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Carbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.

Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.

A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.

Learn more about Carbomer
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol
Cleansing, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.

As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.

This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.

Learn more about Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:

The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.

Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.

Learn more about Ethylhexylglycerin
Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Stabilising

Microcrystalline Cellulose is another name for refined wood pulp. It is used as an emulsifier and mattifying ingredient. As an emulsifier, it helps keep ingredients together.

Humectant, Masking, Solvent

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the โ€˜goodโ€™ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Learn more about Dipropylene Glycol
Masking, Perfuming, Tonic

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water is also known as green tea hydrosol. It is the water leftover from steeping or steam-distilling tea.

It's mostly in cosmetics to lend a light tea scent and gentle refreshing feel (tonic) rather than acting as an active.

Unlike the extract, this ingredient only carries trace amounts of catechins, amino acids, and caffeine that makes tea leaf extract famous.

Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf Water
Masking, Perfuming, Tonic

Lavandula Angustifolia Oil is more commonly known as lavender essential oil. It is considered a fragrancing ingredient.

Lavender imparts a famous scent. While the smell is lovely, this ingredient and may sensitize skin in topical products. This is because about 85% of the oil is made up of linalool and linalyl acetate.

When exposed to air, these two compounds become strong allergens. This ingredient exhibits cytotoxicity at low concentrations; amounts of 0.25% have been shown to damage skin cells.

A study from Japan found this ingredient caused lavender sensitivity after widespread exposure.

Lavender essential oil has some antimicrobial, antibacterial, and anti-inflammatory properties. However, the cons of this ingredient may outweight the pros.

More research is needed to confirm lavender essential oil's effects when used in aromatherapy.

Lavandula Angustifolia is known as the English Lavender and famous for creating purple fields in Provence, France.

Learn more about Lavandula Angustifolia Oil

Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate (GFF) is a yeast traditionally used to make the Japanese alcoholic beverage, sake.

GFF has moisturizing and antioxidant properties.

Studies show GFF improves our skin's natural moisturizing factors (NMF). Our NMF consists of many components that naturally moisturize our skin. Having healthy NMF keeps our skin plump, protected, and hydrated.

This ingredient tells our skin to create more filaggrin, an important component for NMF.

Filaggrin gathers all the structural proteins in our outer layer of skin and creates a tight barrier, helping to protect our skin against allergens and bacteria. This also helps prevent moisture loss.

Thanks to its antioxidant properties, GFF also protects our skin against oxidative stress and UV induced inflammation.

One study found GFF helped regulate sebum (oil) production and keratin in participants.

GFF may not be fungal-acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.

Many components of sake, such as GFF, are studied for their anti-aging benefits today. This is because sake brewers are known to have youthful hands.

Learn more about Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate
Skin Protecting

Laminaria Japonica Extract comes from a kelp more commonly known as 'sweet kelp'. It is commonly eaten in Japan, Korea, and China.

Sweet kelp is a humectant and helps hydrate your skin. Humectants draw moisture from the air to your skin.

Studies show Laminaria Japonica has antioxidant compounds. Antioxidants may help with anti-aging. Kelp also contains magnesium and zinc, making it great for calming inflammation and redness.

Learn more about Laminaria Japonica Extract
Skin Conditioning

Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract comes from the false daisy plant. False daisy contains antioxidant compounds such as flavonoids.

One study found false daisy to absorb UVA and UVB radiation. However, this should not replace your sunscreen.

False daisy is used in both traditional medicines and foods throughout Southeast Asia and India.

Learn more about Eclipta Prostrata Leaf Extract
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Learn more about Hydrogenated Lecithin
Skin Conditioning

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.

Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.

In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.

Learn more about Adenosine
Masking, Perfuming, Tonic

Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil is also known as May Chang essential oil. It is mostly used as a fragrance ingredient and has a bright, sweet, and lemony scent.

The main fragrance compounds in this ingredient are citral (~70-85%) and limonene.

Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), but real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1%.

The main thing worth knowing is that citral is a known EU fragrance allergen so people with known fragrance sensitivities may want to skip it.

Unlike citrus oils, May Chang doesn't contain furocoumarins and therefore isn't phototoxic.

Learn more about Litsea Cubeba Fruit Oil
Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

Learn more about Cetearyl Alcohol
Skin Conditioning

Polyquaternium-51 is a polymer salt. It helps hydrate the skin by creating a film on top. This film traps moisture in, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Skin Conditioning

Beta-Glucan is a polysaccharide. It can be derived from the cell walls of seaweed, oats, yeast, and fungi. It hydrates the skin and helps boost your skin's natural barrier.

As an antioxidant, beta-glucan helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

Studies show this ingredient may be an effective wrinkle reducer as it can deeply penetrate into skin. It has also been show to help with wound healing.

Learn more about Beta-Glucan

Piper Methysticum is also known as the Kava Kava plant, native to Pacific islands. This ingredient is derived from the leaf, root, and/or stem of the plant.

A safety assessment from 2019 deemed the safety studies for this ingredient to be insufficient. Amounts between 0.0001% to 0.01% of this ingredient can be found in cosmetics.

Some sources suggest this ingredient may cause skin sensitivity but further studies are needed.

Learn more about Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Emulsion Stabilising, Masking

Cellulose Gum is a water-soluble polymer that comes from cellulose. It is used to change the texture of a product and to help stabilize emulsions.

As an emulsifier, cellulose gum specifically thicken the texture of water-based products.

This ingredient is considered hypoallergenic and non-toxic. Cellulose Gum can be found in cosmetics, food, and other household goods such as paper products.

Learn more about Cellulose Gum
Skin Conditioning

Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract comes from the leaves of an herb plant native to Southeast Asia. Centella Asiatica is rich in antioxidants and amino acids. It can help reduce irritation and soothe the skin.

Many active components found in centella asiatica, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside, encourage the skin to naturally produce hyaluronic acid. This helps keep our skin hydrated. Many of these components also show antioxidant activity and may help reduce the signs of aging.

Research shows centella asiatica can help increase Type I collagen production by increasing fibroblast production. Fibroblast helps form connective tissue.

The combination of all these properties makes centella asiatica leaf extract effective at soothing the skin.

Other components of centella asiatica leaf extract include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.

Recent studies found madecassoside may help prevent damage from UV rays by preventing UV-induced inflammation. Further research is needed.

This plant has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Learn more about Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

This berry comes from the ginseng plant. It has antioxidant and skin soothing properties.

The antioxidant properties of this ingredient come from their phenolic compounds. Another compound found in this ingredient is ginsenoside; ginsenoside is known to help soothe inflammation.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Fructooligosaccharides (FOS) are a type of prebiotic sugar with humectant and skin conditioning properties. As a humectant, they help attract and hold moisture in the skin.

FOS essentially acts as a food source for the "good" bacteria on your skin and make it harder for "bad" bacteria to thrive. A 2022 study using a reconstructured human skin model found that just 1% of FOS was enough to shift the bacteria balance in favor of beneficial species. This suggests it could help support a healthier skin microbiome over time.

This ingredient has a low sensitization risk and testing shows it does not classify as a skin irritant or sensitizer.

FOS are usually produced from sugar beets and can also be found in foods like bananas, garlic, and onions.

Learn more about Fructooligosaccharides
Emulsifying

Glyceryl Stearate Se is a self-emulsifying (SE) form of glyceryl stearate. Self-emusifying means this ingredient automatically blends with water. It is an emulsifier, emollient, and cleansing agent.

As an emulsifier, Glyceryl Stearate Se prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It is also a surfactant, meaning it helps cleanse the skin. Surfactants help gather oil, dirt, and other pollutants so they may be rinsed away easily.

Emollients help your skin stay smooth and soft. It does so by creating a film on top of the skin that helps trap moisture in.

Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate Se
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil is oil from the peel of an orange fruit.

Limonene and linalool make up the majority of oils from citrus peels. Limonene has a "citrus" fragrance. Citrus peels also contain flavonoids, which have anti-inflammatory properties.

Citrus peel is also a rich source of flavonoids. Flavonoids are natural antioxidants and help protect your skin against damage. Flavonoids are a group of compounds naturally found in vegetables and fruits.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
Cleansing, Emulsifying

Myristic Acid is a saturated fatty acid. It is naturally found in milk fat. Other sources include palm oil, coconut oil, and butter fat.

Myristic Acid is an emulsifer and cleanser. As an emulsifer, it stabilizes a product by preventing ingredients from separating. Myristic Acid helps clean your skin by acting as a surfactant. It tends to gather oil and dirt on your skin to be easily rinsed away.

One study from 2021 found Myristic Acid to have anti-inflammatory properties.

Learn more about Myristic Acid
Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Learn more about Cholesterol
Masking, Perfuming

Pelargonium Graveolens Oil is the pressed oil of the Rose Geranium plant. It has perfuming and masking properties.

This ingredient contains citronellol and geraniol. These compounds may cause allergies and skin-sensitivity.

The scent of Rose Geranium closely resembles. you guessed it: roses.

Learn more about Pelargonium Graveolens Oil
Skin Conditioning

This tree is also known as the David Elm. It contains the ingredient bakuchiol.

Other great compounds found in this ingredient include galactose, glucose, and phenolics. The sugar content gives it great skin hydrating properties. Phenolics are potent antioxidants commonly found in fruits and veggies.

A 2020 study found the phenolics of this root to have an anti-inflammatory effect.

Fun fact: This ingredient is used in traditional Asian medicine.

Learn more about Ulmus Davidiana Root Extract

This ingredient comes from the seed of the velvet flower. It has skin hydrating, nourishing, and antioxidant properties.

This seed is rich in peptides, fatty acids, squalene, vitamin C, and vitamin E.

According to manufacturer, this ingredient is great for adding softness and shine to hair.

Learn more about Amaranthus Caudatus Seed Extract

We don't have a description for Canarium Luzonicum Gum Nonvolatiles yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.

It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.

Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.

Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

This oil is created by distilling the dried flower heads of the Roman Chamomile flower.

Chamomile is rich in antioxidants and has anti-inflammatory properties. Several compounds found in chamomile help with soothing, such as bisbolol.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil is oil expressed from the leaves of the rosemary plant.

Rosemary Leaf Oil is a fragrance and helps give your product a scent. If you are sensitive to irritating fragrances, this one contains camphor. Camphor has been found to irritate skin.

This oil also contains antioxidant and antimicrobial properties. As an antioxidant, it may protect you skin against damage. This can help slow down the signs of aging.

Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

This oil is derived from the leaves of Eucalyptus Globulus, a type of Eucalyptus tree native to Australia.

Though this oil shows antibacterial and antioxidant activity, it is also a known skin-irritant due to its fragrance components.

Humectant, Solvent

Sea water is a humectant and solvent. It is purified water from bodies of salt water.

This ingredient contains minerals (such as salt, zinc, and copper), but the amount will vary depending on where it comes from.

Skin Conditioning

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Learn more about Ceramide NP
Antioxidant, Buffering, Masking

Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C and is the biologically active form used directly by skin.

Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, but it also has plenty of benefits for your skin. It is best supported by academic literature for:

Topical vitamin C has been shown to help neutralize oxidative stress from UV and pollution, helping to improve photoaging and hyperpigmentation when used consistently.

One clinical study found that using 5% topical vitamin C for six months improved signs of photodamaged skin, both on the surface and in the deeper structural layers of the skin.

While vitamin C doesnโ€™t replace sunscreen, studies show it can boost photoprotection when combined with Vitamin E and ferulic acid. These two ingredients help improve stability and protective effects.

The big downside of this ingredient is formulation difficulty. Vitamin C is prone to oxidation and doesn't penetrate the skin unless formulated correctly. Research found that vitamin C absorbs into the skin best at a low pH (< 3.5) with about 20% being the upper limit for effective absorption.

Skin levels can saturate after repeated application; this means your skin wonโ€™t keep absorbing more once itโ€™s full of vitamin C. This is why more isnโ€™t always better with vitamin C and why very high concentrations donโ€™t necessarily give extra benefits.

Ascorbic acid generally works well with many skincare ingredients but can be irritating when combined with other active ingredients. Strong oxidizing acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide can reduce the effectiveness of vitamin C if they are used at the same time; they are often recommended for use at different times of day.

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.

Learn more about Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant, Bleaching, Skin Conditioning

Arbutin is derived from the bearberry plant. It helps even out skin tone and reduce hyperpigmentation.

This ingredient has the ability to block tyrosinase, an enzyme that starts the process of skin darkening. When applied to the skin, arbutin works at a slow pace. This can make it less irritating than similar ingredients.

Kojic Acid is a similar ingredient.

Learn more about Arbutin
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.

In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.

Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:

Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.

Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.

You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Pentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.

The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.

This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.

Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.

Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.

Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.

Learn more about Pentylene Glycol
Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.

Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skinโ€™s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.

Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.

You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.

There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.

Learn more about Tocopherol
Astringent, Masking, Tonic

Blackberry extract is rich in antioxidants and Vitamin C. The majority of antioxidants include flavonoid, phenolic, and anthocyanins.

Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution. This may help reduce the symptoms related to aging.

Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycine Max Seed Extract comes from the Soybean. This bean is native to Asia.

Soybeans are rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants may improve the signs of aging.

Studies show soy may help fade hyperpigmentation from UVB. It does so by disrupting the melanin process caused by UVB induced skin inflammation.

Two powerful components found in the wild soybean include genistein and diadzein. These two isoflavones are potent antioxidants with anti-inflammatory properties. Genistein in particular has been found to prevent redness caused by UV exposure.

Soybeans are rich in proteins and are part of the legume family. Foods made with soybeans include tofu, soymilk, edamame, miso, and soy sauce.

Learn more about Glycine Max Seed Extract
Astringent, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Ulmus Campestris Bark Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as bitter orange flower oil, or neroli flower oil. It imparts a floral, sweet, and citrusy scent.

It is rich in linalool, linalyl acetate, limonene, and nerolidol.

Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract comes from the cranberry fruit. Vaccinium Macrocarpon is the North American species of cranberries native to eastern Canada.

As an astringent, cranberry extract helps tighten the pores by constricting the cells.

Cranberries contain Vitamin E and Vitamin C, both potent antioxidants. It also contains minerals such as manganese and copper.

Learn more about Vaccinium Macrocarpon Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning

Collagen extract is derived from parts of animals. It has skin conditioning properties and is mostly comprised of glycine, proline, and hydroxypoline. These are amino acids.

While our skin does have collagen, this ingredient is not used by the skin for anti-aging. Applying collagen topically has not been linked to helping with collagen loss in skin. All the benefits of collagen are related to hydration.

This ingredient will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.

Learn more about Collagen Extract
Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Glucosamine is an antioxidant and humectant. It is an amino acid sugar and is naturally found in our skin.

The cool thing about this ingredient? It helps the skin produce hyaluronic acid and boost hydration. It also has antioxidant benefits to protect skin cells.

When paired with niacinamide, Acetyl Glucosamine has been shown to be effective at reducing discoloration.

Learn more about Acetyl Glucosamine

We don't have a description for Broussonetia Kazinoki Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

Bacillus Ferment is created by fermenting Bacillus bacteria with yeast extract and carbohydrates. It acts as a humectant and, depending on the strain, can also provide gentle enzymatic exfoliation.

Depending on the strain and formulation, it may also act as a peptide, probiotic, or prebiotic. Certain strains of Bacillus Ferment help support the skinโ€™s microbiome, soothe inflammation, and promote barrier repair and hydration.

Itโ€™s typically used at 0.5-5% concentration, either for mild exfoliation or to improve overall skin health and texture.

Some studies show that Bacillus species can inhibit certain plant fungi (such as Fusarium verticillioides and Fusarium oxysporum) used in agricultural biocontrol. However, these are filamentous molds, not the yeast (Malassezia furfur) responsible for fungal acne.

At this time, there are no studies showing that Bacillus Ferment inhibits Malassezia or that it has been tested on human skin or in cosmetic formulations. Because of this lack of cosmetic and dermatological research, we list Bacillus Ferment as not safe for fungal acne as a precaution. However, it may not trigger breakouts for everyone.

Learn more about Bacillus Ferment
Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is made when the Lactobacillus bacteria (the same kind that makes yogurt and kimchi) are allowed to ferment a nutrient medium.

As it ferments, it collects lactic acid, peptides, enzymes, and other bioactive metabolites to provide:

A 2023 review noted that probiotic fermentation ingredients like this one can enhance antioxidant capacity, reduce UV-induced oxidative damage, and support barrier function.

One clinical study from the same year showed a Lactobacillus ferment lysate significantly reduced transepidermal water loss and improved skin hydration.

Another review highlighted that topical Lactobacillus-based preparations can improve ceramide levels in the stratum corneum, support barrier integrity, and even help reduce S. aureus colonization in atopic dermatitis.

Why is this so cool?

Basically, your skin's outer layer works as a brick wall; skin cells are bricks and ceramides are the mortar holding it together. Moisture escapes, irritants get in, and your skin gets dry and reactive when ceramide levels drop. On top of that, "bad" skin bacteria S. aureus loves to move in when your barrier is weak to make inflammation and irritation worse.

So Lactobacillus ferment is basically patching the wall and evicting the troublemaker when it boosts ceramide production and help keep S. aureus in check.

On top of all this, it also acts as a mild antimicrobial preservative booster.

Just so you know, most studies focus on specific strains or the lysate form rather than this generic "Lactobacillus Ferment", so results can vary.

Though it's a promising ingredient, it doesn't have decades of robust clinical data behind it just yet.

Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.

Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.

Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.

Learn more about Lactobacillus Ferment
Skin Conditioning

Aspergillus Ferment is created when Aspergillus fungi is fermented under controlled conditions. This is the same fungi used to make sake, miso, and soy sauce.

The fungi breaks down to produce a mix of enzymes, amino acids, vitamins, and bioactive compounds during fermentation.

One such compound is kojic acid; kojic acid is widely considered a gentler alternative to hydroquinone. You should know: the amount of kojic acid in Aspergillus Ferment will vary depending on species used and how the fermentation was done.

There's an in-vitro study from 2019 found that ceramide-like compounds from Aspergillus luchuensis helped skin cells turn on the genes related to barrier repair and moisture retention. Just keep in mind this was tested on cells in a lab and not on actual people's faces.

If you're someone who deals with fungal acne (malassezia folliculitis), you might want to instinctively want to skip this ingredient.

That's understandable since it is derived from a fungus. It's worth knowing that Aspergillus and Malassezia are completely different organisms and there's no research suggesting that Aspergillus Ferment feeds or worsens malassezia overgrowth on the skin.

However, if you're actively managing fungal acne, being cautious with any new ingredient is reasonable.

Learn more about Aspergillus Ferment
Skin Conditioning

You might know this ingredient as Matrixyl. It is a synthetic peptide made up of five amino acids attached to a palmitic acid, a fatty acid that helps it absorb into skin more easily.

As a signal peptide, Matrixyl acts like a little messenger. Once it reaches your skin cells, it tells them to ramp up production of collagen, elastin, and other proteins that keep skin looking firm and smooth.

A 12 week clinical study found that a moisturizer containing just 3 ppm of Matrixyl led to a significant improvement in fine-lines and wrinkles. Another study showed an 18% reduction in wrinkle depth, 37% reduction in wrinkle thickness, and a 21% improvement in skin firmness after just 28 days of twice-daily use.

The coolest part is that it works at incredibly low concentrations (like 0.0003%) and it plays well with other actives.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel found it to be non-sensitizing across multiple tests and human patch tests also showed no irritation or sensitization.

Due to its palmitic acid base, it may not be fungal acne safe.

Fun fact: Matrixyl was originally developed by French company Sederma and Procter & Gamble.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin Conditioning

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract is extract from Apples. Apples are rich in Vitamin C, sugars, and antioxidants.

The sugar in Apples are humectants and help hydrate the skin. On top of that, apples also contain some acids, such as malic acid. These acids may have a mild exfoliating effect.

Last, the phytochemicals found in apples are strong antioxidants. These antioxidants help with anti-aging as they protect your skin cells against oxidative damage.

Learn more about Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Morus Alba Bark Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract comes from the leaves of the Camellia japonica plant. This plant is native to East Asia.

The leaves of Camellia Japonica have been found to have anti-inflammatory compounds. These include squalene, lupeol, and vitamin E.

This extract is created by using 50% 1,3-Butylene glycol.

Learn more about Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract
Buffering, Skin Conditioning

Glycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.

Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.

Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.

Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.

In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.

There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.

Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.

A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.

The quality of the extract matters a lot here:

Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.

Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).

Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Cleansing, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

Centella is rich in antioxidants and amino acids, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside.

Studies show the compounds in centella help with:

The combination of all these properties makes centella effective at soothing, hydrating, and protecting the skin.

Other great components of centella include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Learn more about Centella Asiatica Extract
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Serine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.

Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.

Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.

Learn more about Serine
Humectant

Glutamic Acid is an amino acid that is found in all living organisms. Our bodies use this to help nerve cells in the brain communicate with other cells.

In cosmetics, glutamic acid is a famous humectant. It draws water from the air to your skin, keeping your skin hydrated (like hyaluronic acid).

An in-vitro study from 2024 found glutamic acid to play a role in inhibiting inflammation and thus a potential skin-soothing ingredient.

Other studies show it to be have potential wound healing, skin barrier repair, and hair growth properties.

Glutamic acid has poor solubility in water and other solvents.

Learn more about Glutamic Acid
Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed collagen has a misleading name because it is actually a mixture of various proteins/peptides. This ingredient has skin hydrating properties.

Collagen is the most abundant type of structural protein found in your body. In your skin, it is responsible for keeping it firm and youthful.

Hydrolyzed Collagen is created by breaking up proteins into smaller peptide bonds. These peptides act as humectants and emollients.

Humectants are great at holding onto water, keeping skin hydrated. Emollients create a thin barrier on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.

There is ongoing debate about whether hydrolyzed collagen works because it increases skin hydration. Skin hydration is also linked to elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles.

Collagen or peptide ingredients can be used in the morning or night. They will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient is a great hair conditioner as well.

This ingredient can be extracted from different sources, including:

Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources. Vegan collagen would go by a different INCI name, such as hydrolyzed soy protein.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Collagen
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Elastin yet.

This ingredient is also known as arabinogalactan. It is a polysaccharide extracted from North American larch trees. It is a film-forming agent that helps enhance skin hydration and improves the texture of products.

Once applied, galactoarabinan forms a lightweight and breathable film on the skin. This helps reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL) without adding a greasy finish.

It is also used to boost the efficacy of exfoliating actives like AHAs by improving skin feel and reducing irritation potential.

Studies show this ingredient supports hydration through two actions:

1) Limiting water evaporation
2) Enhancing the spreadability of emulsion products to disperse humectants and emollients across the skin's surface

Additionally, galactoarabinan can improve makeup wear and reduce "tightness" after cleansing.

Learn more about Galactoarabinan
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Aspartic Acid is an amino acid that our bodies produce naturally. It is an antioxidant.

Our body uses Aspartic Acid to help build collagen and elastin. It also plays a role in hydrating skin.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Leucine yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Tricholoma Matsutake Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.

Skin Conditioning

Lysine is an essential amino acid (your body cannot make it on its own). It has skin conditioning properties and one of the key players in collagen synthesis.

When your body creates collagen, lysine is basically the glue that holds everything together. It helps collagen fibers lock into each other and stay strong, with vitamin C being its trusty sidekick. Without enough lysine, this glue gets flimsy and less firm, resulting in less bouncy skin.

In skincare, lysine is mostly there to help keep your skin moisturized. It carries water through your skin's layers so everything stays plump.

So will putting lysine on your face create bouncier skin?

It's hard to say; most of the exciting collagen research on lysine comes from oral supplements or lab studies on mice. Further research is needed to truly understand what role topical lysine plays in skincare and your skin.

However, there's no harm in adding lysine to your routine as a supportive and hydrating ingredient.

Learn more about Lysine
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Learn more about Arginine
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tyrosine is one of the amino acids used to create protein. It plays a role in melanin production.

A study from 2012 found tyrosine to show promising results in restoring skin volume.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Phenylalanine is an amino acid. It is a skin soothing and hydrating ingredient. Amino acids play a crucial role in wound healing and skin hydration.

This ingredient is also used to help even out skin tone due to its ability to disrupt the melanin production process.

Two structures of phenylalanine exist: L-phenylalanine and D-phenylalanine. L-phenylalanine is essential, this means our bodies cannot produce it naturally and we must get it from foods. Our bodies convert D-phenylalanine to neurotransmitters, and D-phenylalanine is found in our bodies naturally.

Some foods that contain L-phenylalanine include eggs, soybeans, beef, milk.

Learn more about Phenylalanine
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Valine is an essential amino acid. It is used by our bodies for tissue repair and muscle growth.

An essential amino acid is one in which our bodies cannot naturally produce so we must get them through diet. Foods such as eggs, dairy, red meat, and fish contain valine.

This ingredient can either be derived from an animal product or be synthetically created.

Learn more about Valine

Threonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.

Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.

Skin Conditioning

Proline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.

It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.

Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.

Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.

Learn more about Proline
Masking, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Rosa Damascena Flower Water is the water-based byproduct of steam-distilling damask rose petals. It has skin conditioning, masking, and skin protecting properties.

Research shows that Rosa damascena is rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds like gallic acid that contribute to its antioxidant activity.

In vitro studies have shown that Rosa damascena can scavenge free radicals and reduce melanin overproduction. Research has also found this extract offers some degree of UV absorption but this should not replace your sunscreen.

Learn more about Rosa Damascena Flower Water
Skin Conditioning

Isoleucine is an amino acid that helps reinforce our skin barrier. This amino acid plays a role in creating protein for the body.

Fun fact: Isoleucine is found in meat, fish, dairy, legumes, and nuts.

Masking, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil is an essential oil made from the Damask Rose. It is often used as a fragrance in cosmetics.

Rose Oil has antibacterial and antioxidant properties due to its terpene, glycoside, flavonoid, anthocyanin, and Vitamin C content.

Other major parts of Rose Oil include citronellol and geraniol. Both of these are known EU allergens and cause contact-allergies.

The downsides of this ingredient outweight the positives.

Learn more about Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Histidine is a semi-essential amino acid used by our bodies to create protein. It has humectant and skin conditioning properties.

Our bodies use histidine to create filaggrin - filaggrin is a structural protein that the skin uses in maintaining skin barrier.

One study found histidine and carnosine to be a dynamic duo for your skin:

Oral histidine has also been found to help with filaggrin-deficit skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis.

Why is it considered a semi-essential amino acid? This is because adults are able to create it but children must get it from their diet.

Learn more about Histidine
Skin Conditioning

Methionine is an essential amino acid. It is a conditioning agent and commonly found in both skin and hair products.

This amino acid is a precursor to glutathione, a powerful antioxidant.

Fun fact: Methionine can be found in meat, fish, and dairy. It cannot be naturally produce and requires dietary intake.

Learn more about Methionine
Antioxidant, Masking

Cysteine is an amino acid found in our bodies. It becomes an antioxidant when converted into gluthatione.

Once it becomes gluthatione, it prevents oxidative damage to parts of our cell. Gluthatione has also been shown to protect our skin from UV-B induced damage.

Perfuming

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Learn more about Linalool
Perfuming

Citral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.

Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.

You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.

Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.

The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Citral
Perfuming, Solvent

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Limonene

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ยท Updated January 21, 2026 Added by philipkukoba