What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientJojoba Esters
EmollientCopernicia Cerifera Wax
Cetyl Alcohol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEchinacea Purpurea Root Extract
MoisturisingCandelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientUndecane
EmollientAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingTridecane
PerfumingArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientRibose
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientStrelitzia Nicolai Seed Aril Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGellan Gum
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Phytate
Cellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingMelia Azadirachta Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingMelia Azadirachta Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingOpuntia Ficus-Indica Extract
Skin ConditioningAmino Esters-1
Skin ConditioningCalcium Gluconate
HumectantCoccinia Indica Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSolanum Muricatum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningRosa Canina Fruit Extract
AstringentAloe Barbadensis Flower Extract
EmollientAlgae Extract
EmollientSalicylic Acid
MaskingOcimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCurcuma Longa Root Extract
MaskingLawsonia Inermis Extract
AntimicrobialOcimum Basilicum Extract
AntioxidantPearl Powder
Sorbic Acid
PreservativeLactic Acid
BufferingSodium Chloride
MaskingSodium Glycolate
BufferingWater, Glycerin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Jojoba Esters, Copernicia Cerifera Wax, Cetyl Alcohol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Echinacea Purpurea Root Extract, Candelilla/Jojoba/Rice Bran Polyglyceryl-3 Esters, Glyceryl Stearate, Undecane, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Gluconolactone, Sodium Stearoyl Lactylate, Tridecane, Arachidyl Alcohol, Ribose, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Behenyl Alcohol, Strelitzia Nicolai Seed Aril Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Glucoside, Sodium Hydroxide, Allantoin, Gellan Gum, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Cellulose Gum, Melia Azadirachta Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Melia Azadirachta Flower Extract, Benzyl Alcohol, Opuntia Ficus-Indica Extract, Amino Esters-1, Calcium Gluconate, Coccinia Indica Fruit Extract, Solanum Muricatum Fruit Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Flower Extract, Algae Extract, Salicylic Acid, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Tocopherol, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Lawsonia Inermis Extract, Ocimum Basilicum Extract, Pearl Powder, Sorbic Acid, Lactic Acid, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Glycolate
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingSqualane
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCapryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDiheptyl Succinate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientMadecassoside
AntioxidantAngelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningRheum Palmatum Root Extract
AstringentAstragalus Membranaceus Extract
AntioxidantCurcuma Longa Root Extract
MaskingArnica Montana Flower Extract
MaskingAvena Sativa Kernel Flour
AbrasiveGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningSodium PCA
HumectantCeramide EOP
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingSerine
MaskingAspartic Acid
MaskingValine
MaskingThreonine
Proline
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingHistidine
HumectantPalmitic Acid
EmollientIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningPCA
HumectantLauroyl Lysine
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCholesterol
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingSodium Lactate
BufferingPropylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Niacinamide, Squalane, Glycerin, Pentylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Capryloyl Glycerin/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Diheptyl Succinate, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Stearate, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Madecassoside, Angelica Polymorpha Sinensis Root Extract, Rheum Palmatum Root Extract, Astragalus Membranaceus Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Avena Sativa Kernel Flour, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytosphingosine, Sodium PCA, Ceramide EOP, Ceramide AP, Ceramide NP, Alanine, Serine, Aspartic Acid, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Arginine, Phenylalanine, Histidine, Palmitic Acid, Isoleucine, PCA, Lauroyl Lysine, Tocopherol, Cholesterol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Lactate, Propylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Glucoside, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.
Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.
Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.
Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl GlucosideCurcuma Longa Root Extract is from the spice, turmeric. Besides being a healthy and delicious spice, turmeric also has plenty of skincare benefits. It has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-microbial properties.
Turmeric contains curcumin, an antioxidant. Antioxidants help neutralize unstable free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules may damage your skin's cells and DNA. Curcumin may help with anti-aging.
Curcumin also has anti-inflammatory properties and can help soothe skin and reduce irritation. On top of that, curcumin has been shown to help prevent hyperpigmentation from sun damage.
The anti-microbial property of turmeric can make it effective in treating acne. This property has also been shown to help regulate the production of sebum.
Learn more about Curcuma Longa Root ExtractGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum