What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Centella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDimethicone
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCocoglycerides
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingCalamine
AbsorbentAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentBoron Nitride
AbsorbentC30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
EmollientSodium Chloride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-2 Oleate
EmulsifyingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-2 Stearate
EmulsifyingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingStearic Acid
CleansingMyristoyl/Palmitoyl Oxostearamide/Arachamide Mea
Skin ConditioningPhytosterols
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningWater
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Phenethyl Alcohol
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingSalvia Officinalis Oil
MaskingSantalum Album Oil
MaskingCentella Asiatica Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Glycerin, Cocoglycerides, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Calamine, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Boron Nitride, C30-45 Alkyl Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Sodium Chloride, Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Ricinoleate, Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Sorbitan Stearate, Sorbitan Olivate, Stearic Acid, Myristoyl/Palmitoyl Oxostearamide/Arachamide Mea, Phytosterols, Madecassoside, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Allantoin, Ceramide NP, Water, Tocopherol, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Phenethyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylyl Glycol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Salvia Officinalis Oil, Santalum Album Oil
Water
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Water
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion Stabilising1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientSqualane
EmollientEctoin
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientVinyldimethicone
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTromethamine
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentHydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract
AntioxidantTocopherol
AntioxidantBetaine
HumectantGuaiazulene
AntimicrobialNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningBetulin
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningDimethylsilanol Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantPotassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol
HumectantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantWater, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, C14-22 Alcohols, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Squalane, Ectoin, Dicaprylyl Ether, Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Vinyldimethicone, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Arachidyl Glucoside, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Ceramide NP, Maltodextrin, Hydrolyzed Gardenia Florida Extract, Tocopherol, Betaine, Guaiazulene, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Betulin, Beta-Glucan, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hyaluronic Acid, Potassium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Sodium Hyaluronate Dimethylsilanol, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is one of the most researched botanical extracts in skincare with decades of studies backing its effects on inflammation, collagen, and the skin barrier.
That research keeps pointing back to the same four triterpenoid saponins: Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid.
These compounds allow centella to dial back inflammation, encourage the skin to build and hold onto collagen, support the barrier and hydration, and bring solid antioxidant activity to protect against signs of aging.
Centella also carries a nice supporting cast of Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and amino acids. Put it all together and you get an ingredient that soothes, hydrates, and protects, all at once.
Most of centella's magic comes from the four big compounds (Asiaticoside, Madecassoside, Asiatic Acid, and Madecassic Acid). These are the actives doing the heavy lifting in almost every centella study.
Here is the short version of what they do in the skin:
So it is not just soothing for the sake of soothing. Centella calms the skin AND helps it rebuild.
Just FYI, not all centella on an ingredient list is the same. What you are getting actually depends on the extract:
Fun fact on the ratios: the leaves tend to be richest in Madecassoside and Asiaticoside, and lower in the two acids. The exact amounts shift with where the plant is grown and how it is processed. This means purity really does vary brand to brand.
Centella is one of the most easygoing actives out there.
It layers well with basically everything: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, peptides, and vitamin C, and also pairs nicely with stronger actives like retinoids and exfoliating acids where it can help take the edge off irritation.
On the safety side, centella and its triterpenes are classified as weak sensitizers, meaning allergic reactions are possible but uncommon.
Patch tests at 1% and 5% came back negative in test panels, and creams at typical use levels did not cause allergic reactions across large groups of people.
But as with any new active, a patch test is still a smart move for very reactive skin.
Centella is widely used because it is effective at low percentages. For context, human safety testing found no meaningful irritation from creams containing centella extract at everyday use levels (the tested amounts were well under 1%).
The irritancy threshold in animal testing was also above 30% (so real-world formulas sit far below anything concerning).
In collagen lab studies, higher concentrations drove more collagen synthesis, so serums built around centella tend to feature it more prominently.
Bottom line: you will find centella working nicely anywhere from a fraction of a percent up to hero-ingredient levels depending on whether it is a supporting soother or the main event.
Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.
Learn more about Centella Asiatica ExtractCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum