What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCyclomethicone
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPolysilicone-11
Isododecane
EmollientDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingCollagen
MoisturisingHyaluronic Acid
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTropolone
Skin ConditioningTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientMangifera Indica Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningRubus Idaeus Fruit Extract
AstringentCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningIris Florentina Root Extract
MaskingHoney Extract
HumectantSodium PCA
HumectantBetaine
HumectantSorbitol
HumectantGlycine
BufferingAlanine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingThreonine
Arginine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningGlutamic Acid
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Water, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polysilicone-11, Isododecane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Collagen, Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tropolone, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Mangifera Indica Seed Butter, Adenosine, Beta-Glucan, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Copper Tripeptide-1, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Honey Extract, Sodium PCA, Betaine, Sorbitol, Glycine, Alanine, Proline, Serine, Threonine, Arginine, Lysine, Glutamic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Disodium EDTA
Collagen Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingCaprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride
EmollientPhenyl Trimethicone
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingBetaine
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTabebuia Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningMacrocystis Pyrifera Extract
Skin ConditioningNasturtium Officinale Leaf Extract
MaskingGolden Extract
Malt Extract
Skin ProtectingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingElaeis Guineensis Oil
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingCollagen
MoisturisingPolyglyceryl-10 Stearate
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningC15-19 Alkane
SolventDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylate-13
Behenyl Alcohol
EmollientSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingVinyldimethicone
Jojoba Esters
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantMyristyl Myristate
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningSucrose Polystearate
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingGlucose
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCholesterol
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Sorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPolyglycerin-3
HumectantJasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax
MaskingPoloxamer 188
EmulsifyingFructooligosaccharides
HumectantPropanediol
SolventOlea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables
Skin ConditioningSodium Laurate
CleansingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingLauric Acid
CleansingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantGold
Cosmetic ColorantLactobacillus
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientCetyl Palmitate
EmollientPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantPolyurethane-15
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningPolyurethane-11
Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCollagen Extract, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Niacinamide, Caprylic/Capric/Succinic Triglyceride, Phenyl Trimethicone, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Water, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Betaine, Cetyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Tabebuia Bark Extract, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Nasturtium Officinale Leaf Extract, Golden Extract, Malt Extract, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Collagen, Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, C15-19 Alkane, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyacrylate-13, Behenyl Alcohol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Vinyldimethicone, Jojoba Esters, Butylene Glycol, Myristyl Myristate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Sucrose Polystearate, Xanthan Gum, Glucose, Adenosine, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Cholesterol, Disodium EDTA, Sorbitan Isostearate, Ceramide NP, Polyglycerin-3, Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Wax, Poloxamer 188, Fructooligosaccharides, Propanediol, Olea Europaea Oil Unsaponifiables, Sodium Laurate, Beta-Glucan, Carbomer, Lauric Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Gold, Lactobacillus, Madecassoside, Hyaluronic Acid, Cyanocobalamin, Tocopherol, C10-18 Triglycerides, Cetyl Palmitate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ascorbic Acid, Polyurethane-15, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Polyurethane-11, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Parfum, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Pentylene Glycol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineBeta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Learn more about Beta-GlucanBetaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.
Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.
Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.
Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.
Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.
Learn more about BetaineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCollagen is a big structural protein that your body uses to keep skin firm and bouncy. Despite the marketing, topically applied collagen doesn't "refill" the collagen in your skin.
The molecule is too big to pass through your skin barrier so intact Collagen physically can't get past the surface.
What it actually does in your skincare is work as a humectant and film-former: it binds water, lays down a light moisturizing film, and reduces water loss from the surface. This helps make skin feel smoother and temporarily plumper.
This ingredient has been found safe for use in cosmetics with clinical studies showing no irritation, sensitization, or phototoxicity. It's typically used at low concentrations (often a fraction of a percent up to a few percent).
Collagen will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.
Learn more about hydrolyzed collagen or soluble collagen.
Learn more about CollagenDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Learn more about Hyaluronic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water