What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventGlycerin
Humectant
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Acetyl Hexapeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin Conditioning
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Humectant
Copper Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Squalane
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate
Emulsifying
Cetearyl Olivate
C14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion Stabilising
Stearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Sorbitan Olivate
Emulsifying
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Dimethiconol
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingSaccharide Hydrolysate
HumectantGlyceryl Stearate Citrate
Emollient
Fructooligosaccharides
Humectant
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingTromethamine
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Pullulan
Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Humectant
Saccharum Officinarum Extract
MoisturisingAdenosine
Skin Conditioning
Sorbitan Laurate
Emulsifying
Disodium EDTA
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingMyristyl Alcohol
Emollient
Myristic Acid
Cleansing
Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Glucose
Humectant
Arachidic Acid
Cleansing
Lauryl Alcohol
Emollient
Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Humectant
Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Ceramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Atelocollagen
Skin Conditioning
Desamido Collagen
Skin Conditioning
Oleic Acid
Emollient
Hydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientHydrolyzed Collagen
Emollient
Soluble Collagen
Humectant
Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
Humectant
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Collagen
Moisturising
Collagen Amino Acids
Moisturising
Procollagen
Skin Conditioning
Magnesium PCA
Humectant
Serine
Masking
Sucrose
Humectant
Glycine
Buffering
Calcium Chloride
AstringentSea Salt
Abrasive
Alanine
Masking
Magnesium Chloride
Threonine
Histidine
Humectant
Aspartic Acid
Masking
Valine
MaskingProline
Skin Conditioning
Dipotassium Phosphate
BufferingLysine
Skin ConditioningLeucine
Skin ConditioningTyrosine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Citrate
Skin ConditioningGlucosamine Hcl
Phenylalanine
Masking
Glutamic Acid
Humectant
Arginine
Masking
1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide
Skin ConditioningAsparagine
MaskingCitrulline
Skin ConditioningMethionine
Skin ConditioningTaurine
BufferingTryptophan
MaskingFormic Acid
Preservative
Glutamine
Skin ConditioningCysteine
Antioxidant
Parfum
Masking
Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Perfuming
Water, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Squalane, Glyceryl Stearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate, Cetearyl Olivate, C14-22 Alcohols, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Polysorbate 60, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, 1,2-Hexanediol, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Dimethiconol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Fructooligosaccharides, Allantoin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tromethamine, Caprylyl Glycol, Pullulan, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Saccharum Officinarum Extract, Adenosine, Sorbitan Laurate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Myristyl Alcohol, Myristic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Glucose, Arachidic Acid, Lauryl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Ceramide NP, Atelocollagen, Desamido Collagen, Oleic Acid, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Soluble Collagen, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Collagen, Collagen Amino Acids, Procollagen, Magnesium PCA, Serine, Sucrose, Glycine, Calcium Chloride, Sea Salt, Alanine, Magnesium Chloride, Threonine, Histidine, Aspartic Acid, Valine, Proline, Dipotassium Phosphate, Lysine, Leucine, Tyrosine, Isoleucine, Magnesium Citrate, Glucosamine Hcl, Phenylalanine, Glutamic Acid, Arginine, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Asparagine, Citrulline, Methionine, Taurine, Tryptophan, Formic Acid, Glutamine, Cysteine, Parfum, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Cyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Alcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Polyacrylamide
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Boron Nitride
Absorbent
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Emollient
Methylparaben
Preservative
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Antioxidant
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
Laureth-7
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Ethylparaben
Preservative
Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract
MaskingSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Skin Conditioning
Retinyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Tetrasodium EDTA
Sorbitan Laurate
Emulsifying
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Potassium Hydroxide
BufferingPanax Ginseng Root Extract
Emollient
3-Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid
SurfactantCalcium Hydroxymethionine
Skin ConditioningCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDimethylmethoxy Chromanol
Antioxidant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin Conditioning
Morus Alba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
Antioxidant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Water, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cyclohexasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Alcohol Denat., Polyacrylamide, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Phenoxyethanol, Boron Nitride, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Methylparaben, Pentylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Propylene Glycol, Laureth-7, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylparaben, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Retinyl Palmitate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbitan Laurate, Polysorbate 20, Potassium Hydroxide, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, 3-Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid, Calcium Hydroxymethionine, Carbomer, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Xanthan Gum, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester is a peptide composed of amino acids arginine and tyrosine.
This peptide is considered a neurotransmitter peptide, meaning it has pain-relieving and relaxing properties. It has the ability to calm skin irritation from external factors such as chemical stinging or heat.
Neurotransmitter peptides are also often called "botox in a bottle". This is because these peptides have the ability to relax the muscles.
Though relaxing the muscles can prevent expression lines (as we have seen in botox), the studies do not show these peptides to be a botox replacement. The effects of this muscle relaxation is also short-term, as opposed to longer-term results from botox.
Learn more about Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl EsterButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCyclopentasiloxane (D5) is a lightweight silicone that mostly acts as an emollient and solvent in cosmetics. Its the reason your products feel silky, fast-spreading, and non-greasy.
Since D5 is volatile, it does its thing and then evaporates off the skin quickly.
The safety profile of this ingredient is reassuring; the US CIR Expert Panel concluded D5 is safe as used in cosmetics and Health Canada concluded that D5 is not harmful to human health or the environment as currently used in cosmetics
There's a study that people mention about D5 in a rat study showing tumors. This study is related to long-term inhalation of high D5 levels.
Regulatory bodies have judged this study to be not applicable in topical skincare since skin absorption of D5 is very low and we're not really inhaling huge amounts of D5.
The only restriction for this ingredient is environmental. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) restricted D5 in wash-off cosmetics at or above 0.1% due to their persistence in water.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is hyaluronic acid (HA) that is broken down into lower molecular weight fragments.
It's a humectant that pulls and holds water in the skin to help with hydration, plumpness, and reduce transepidermal water loss.
Because hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid is smaller in size, it can slip past your outermost layer of skin more easily than full-sized HA.
Most formulations will combine all sizes to get the best of both worlds.
Typical usage levels range from 0.01-1%. Any percentage higher than 2% might become goopy and tacky.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic AcidHydroxyethylcellulose is used to improve the texture of products. It is created from a chemical reaction involving ethylene oxide and alkali-cellulose. Cellulose is a sugar found in plant cell walls and help give plants structure.
This ingredient helps stabilize products by preventing ingredients from separating. It can also help thicken the texture of a product.
This ingredient can also be found in pill medicines to help our bodies digest other ingredients.
Learn more about HydroxyethylcellulosePalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidSorbitan Laurate is created from lauric acid and derivatives from sorbitol. It is an emulsifier.
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
