What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Glycerin
Humectant
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Tranexamic Acid
Astringent
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Arbutin
Antioxidant
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Behenyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glyceryl Behenate
Emollient
Kojic Acid
Antioxidant
Oxidized Glutathione
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
Preservative
Ceteareth-20
CleansingLecithin
Emollient
Sclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingZinc Ricinoleate
Arginine Hcl
Skin ConditioningAzelaic Acid
Buffering
Squalane
Emollient
Ceteareth-12
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cetyl Palmitate
Emollient
Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Masking
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
CleansingTrisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Phytic Acid
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning
Melatonin
Antioxidant
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Niacinamide, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tranexamic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate, Arbutin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Behenate, Kojic Acid, Oxidized Glutathione, Phenoxyethanol, Ceteareth-20, Lecithin, Sclerotium Gum, Zinc Ricinoleate, Arginine Hcl, Azelaic Acid, Squalane, Ceteareth-12, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Phytic Acid, Allantoin, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanyl Palmitate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Melatonin, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
Solvent
Centella Asiatica Leaf Water
Skin Conditioning
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Panthenol
Skin Conditioning
Diisostearyl Malate
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
Emulsifying
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
PEG-8
HumectantPEG-100 Stearate
Surfactant
Polyacrylate-13
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Beeswax
Emulsion Stabilising
Glycerin
Humectant
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Polyisobutene
Asiaticoside
Antioxidant
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingMadecassic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Asiatic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Spirulina Platensis Powder
Skin ProtectingAlcohol
Antimicrobial
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
Masking
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Adenosine
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide AP
Skin Conditioning
Citrus Grandis Peel Oil
Masking
Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsifying
Disodium EDTA
Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
Masking
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
Masking
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Centella Asiatica Extract
Cleansing
Theobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin Conditioning
Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil
Astringent
Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture
Antioxidant
Madecassoside
Antioxidant
Citric Acid
Buffering
Achillea Millefolium Extract
CleansingArtemisia Absinthium Extract
Skin ConditioningArnica Montana Flower Extract
Masking
Gentiana Lutea Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSucrose Laurate
Emollient
Sodium Glycerophosphate
Selaginella Lepidophylla Extract
EmollientPotassium Magnesium Aspartate
BufferingLysolecithin
EmulsifyingMagnesium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningCalcium Gluconate
HumectantPotassium Sorbate
Preservative
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Propanediol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Water, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Panthenol, Diisostearyl Malate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Hydrogenated Polydecene, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, 1,2-Hexanediol, PEG-8, PEG-100 Stearate, Polyacrylate-13, Palmitic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Beeswax, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Polyisobutene, Asiaticoside, Carbomer, Madecassic Acid, Asiatic Acid, Spirulina Platensis Powder, Alcohol, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Sorbitan Isostearate, Adenosine, Ceramide AP, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Disodium EDTA, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Sodium Hyaluronate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Dextrin, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Aniba Rosaeodora Wood Oil, Centella Asiatica Meristem Cell Culture, Madecassoside, Citric Acid, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Artemisia Absinthium Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Gentiana Lutea Root Extract, Sucrose Laurate, Sodium Glycerophosphate, Selaginella Lepidophylla Extract, Potassium Magnesium Aspartate, Lysolecithin, Magnesium Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Benzoate, Xanthan Gum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water
