Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a multitasker ingredient that helps treat acne, pigmentation, and irritation. It is a great option for sensitive skin.

What makes it special?

• Anti-inflammatory: Azelaic acid helps calm redness and swelling. This makes it helpful for inflamed acne or rosacea.
• Regulates skin cell turnover: Azelaic acid gently encourages normal skin cell production. This prevents clogged pores, blackheads, and whiteheads from forming while smoothing out skin texture without the harshness of traditional exfoliants.
• Antibacterial: It targets acne-causing bacteria like Propionibacterium acnes to reduce breakouts.
• Brightens skin tone: Azelaic acid can fade dark spots from acne (aka post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation) and melasma.
• Antioxidant: The antioxidant properties of this ingredient means it protects skin cells from damage caused by free-radicals.

OTC Azelaic acid is usually available in concentrations from 10-15% and anything over requires a prescription.

Here's what each tier does best:

• 10% (OTC: achieves noticeable tone improvement within 8-12 weeks and delivers mild acne-control with low irritation.
• 15% (RX): FDA approved for papules and pustules of mild to moderate rosacea.
• 20% (RX): Demonstrated efficacy for melasma similar to hydroquinone.

Unlike other acids, azelaic acid will not make your skin more photosensitive/sun sensitive.

Though this ingredient is naturally occurring in grains like wheat, rye, and barley, it is usually synthetically created for cosmetics to ensure stability and effectiveness.