BOH Bio Heal Probioderm 3D Lifting Cream Versus Aestura Regederm 365 Intensive Lifting Capsule Cream
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles.
This anti-aging moisturizer is formulated around Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate and Niacinamide to soften the look of wrinkles and strengthen the skin barrier.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningGlycereth-26
HumectantVinyldimethicone
Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientBetaine
HumectantPolyglycerin-3
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Olivate
Pentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningFructooligosaccharides
HumectantFructan
Skin ConditioningInulin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSaponins
CleansingSoluble Proteoglycan
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantAcetyl Hexapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Skin ConditioningDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningPentapeptide-3
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningMalt Extract
Skin ProtectingDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningElaeis Guineensis Oil
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Rapeseed Oil
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentHydrolyzed Jojoba Esters
Skin ConditioningPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTromethamine
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantMaltodextrin
AbsorbentCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingAlgin
MaskingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingTocopherol
AntioxidantBiosaccharide Gum-4
Skin ConditioningMineral Salts
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Corn Starch
HumectantSodium Phosphate
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSucrose
HumectantDextran
Disodium Phosphate
BufferingParfum
MaskingWater, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Glycereth-26, Vinyldimethicone, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Hydrogenated Polydecene, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Betaine, Polyglycerin-3, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Pentylene Glycol, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Lactobacillus Ferment, Fructooligosaccharides, Fructan, Inulin, Panthenol, Beta-Glucan, Adenosine, Saponins, Soluble Proteoglycan, Nonapeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Copper Tripeptide-1, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Pentapeptide-3, Hexapeptide-9, Oligopeptide-2, Malt Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Behenyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Hydrogenated Rapeseed Oil, Hydroxyacetophenone, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrolyzed Jojoba Esters, PEG-100 Stearate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Tromethamine, Butylene Glycol, Maltodextrin, Cyanocobalamin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Algin, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Tocopherol, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Mineral Salts, Hydrolyzed Corn Starch, Sodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Sucrose, Dextran, Disodium Phosphate, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientPropanediol
SolventCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientBis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningC14-22 Alcohols
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Cetearyl Olivate
Stearic Acid
CleansingArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPolyacrylate-13
Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientMannitol
HumectantPalmitic Acid
EmollientC12-20 Alkyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Adenosine
Skin ConditioningAcrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer
Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingDextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningThymol Trimethoxycinnamate
AntioxidantCholesterol
EmollientSilica
AbrasiveOleanolic Acid
Skin Conditioning3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Extensin
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingWater, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Propanediol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Niacinamide, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Bis-Hydroxyethoxypropyl Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, C14-22 Alcohols, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Cetearyl Olivate, Stearic Acid, Arachidyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Polyacrylate-13, Hydroxypropyl Bispalmitamide Mea, Behenyl Alcohol, Mannitol, Palmitic Acid, C12-20 Alkyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Glucoside, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Glyceryl Caprylate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Adenosine, Acrylates/Ammonium Methacrylate Copolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Carbomer, Sorbitan Isostearate, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Thymol Trimethoxycinnamate, Cholesterol, Silica, Oleanolic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Hydrolyzed Extensin, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineBehenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Learn more about Behenyl AlcoholButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateCetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateThis ingredient is a synthetic ingredient with emollient and skin conditioner used to make skincare products feel more lightweight on the skin. It helps improve slip and spreadability without feeling greasy.
Because it is high molecular weight and lipophilic (oil loving), it remains on the surface of skin.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic with skin soothing properties. Postbiotics are inactive molecules produced by probiotic bacteria that provide skin benefits.
This ingredient comes from the secretion of the bacteria, Lactobacillus.
Studies show this ingredient can help calm redness and may help treat the signs of photoaging; however, the evidence is inconclusive and further studies are needed.
Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.
Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.
Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.
Learn more about Lactobacillus Ferment LysatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an amino-acid based emulsifier. It is made by combining stearic acid with L-glutamic acid and neutralizing it to a sodium salt.
As an emulsifier, it works mainly as an oil-in-water one and helps keep the oil and water in your formulas blended. It also contributes to a smooth, non-greasy skin feel.
This ingredient is biodegradable and commonly available in natural/COSMOS-certified grades.
Learn more about Sodium Stearoyl GlutamateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water