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Neogen Dermalogy Hyal Glow Rose Essence Ingredients Explained

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Published March 1, 2023 Added by screamadelica

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Overview

What it is

Essence with 81 ingredients that contains ceramides, exfoliants, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, retinoid and Vitamin E

Cool Features

It is reef safe

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture

Free From

It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, parabens, silicones or sulfates

Fun facts

Neogen is from South Korea. This product is used in 9 routines created by our community.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

Essence with 81 ingredients that contains ceramides, exfoliants, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, retinoid and Vitamin E

Quick info

You should know

Notable Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients 81

Rosa Damascena Flower Water Masking, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Rosa Damascena Flower Water comes from the Damask rose. It is a dilluted version of the Rose Essential oil.

Glycerin Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin Icon
2 Benefits

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

0 Com. / 0 Irr.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate Emollient

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.

Water Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

Dipropylene Glycol Masking, Solvent

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created stabilizer and solvent. It is a part of the glycol class in the alcohol family.

Disliked Full details ->
1,2-Hexanediol Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a multi-tasker ingredient. It acts as a preservative to increase shelf-life and can aid other preservatives in preventing microbe growth. 1,2-Hexanediol also helps the skin retain moisture as a humectant.

Niacinamide Smoothing
Niacinamide IconGood for Oily Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Dark Spots IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin Icon
NiacinamideNiacinamide Icon 6 Benefits

Niacinamide has emerged as an all-star ingredient due to its many benefits.

Polysorbate 60 Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon
Not safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

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Propanediol Solvent

Propanediol helps absorb ingredients into your skin, boosting their benefits. It can act as an emollient, making your skin softer. Propanediol can help products last longer by boosting the properties of preservatives within the formulation.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon
Not safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is created from fatty coconut alcohol, caprylic acid, and capric acid.

Very Disliked Full details ->
Rosa Damascena Extract Masking, Tonic

Rosa Damascena Extract comes from the Damask rose.

Tromethamine Buffering, Masking

Tromethamine is an aliphatic compound. An aliphatic compound is an organic compound with open-chained carbon atoms. It is synthetically created. Tromethamine is used to balance pH and improve texture.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Emulsion Stabilising

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken and improve the texture of products.

Disliked Full details ->
Ethylhexylglycerin Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin (we can't pronounce this either) is commonly used as a preservative and skin softener. It is derived from glyceryl.

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride Masking, Skin Conditioning

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.

Adenosine Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon
2 Benefits

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

Carbomer Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
1 / 0

Carbomer is a polymer of acrylic acid. Its main role is to create gel consistency within products.

1 Com. / 0 Irr.
Disliked Full details ->
Xanthan Gum Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

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Allantoin Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Soothing
0 / 0 Helps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon
3 Benefits

Allantoin plays a role in soothing and moisturizing the skin. Because of this, it is often added to products with strong active ingredients.

0 Com. / 0 Irr.
Panthenol Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps reduce irritation Icon
Helps reduce irritationHelps reduce irritation Icon

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It can be found naturally in our skin and hair.

0 Com. / 0 Irr.
Hydrogenated Lecithin Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is created from the hydrogenation of lecithin. Hydrogenation is a chemical reaction between molecule hydrogen and another element.

Butylene Glycol Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning
1 / 0

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

1 Com. / 0 Irr.
Rice Ferment Filtrate Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots Icon
2 Benefits

Rice Ferment Filtrate is created by fermenting rice, or oryza sativa. A common name for this ingredient is sake, the traditional Japanese fermented rice alcoholic beverage.

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract comes from the cucumber. Cucumis Sativus is native to South Asia and can now be found on every continent.

Morus Alba Bark Extract Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Morus Alba Bark Extract.

Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate.

Unknown Full details ->
Ceramide 3 Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon
CeramideCeramide Icon 4 Benefits

Ceramide 3 is a form of ceramide.

Cyanocobalamin Skin Conditioning

Cyanocobalamin is the manufactured version of vitamin B12. Our bodies use B12 for cell production.

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic

Zingiber Officinale is more commonly known as ginger.

Houttuynia Cordata Extract Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon
Helps reduce Skin RednessHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Houttuynia Cordata Extract is more commonly known as Heart Leaf, Fish Mint, or Chameleon plant.

Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract Skin Conditioning

Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract is extract from peppermint leaves.

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Hydrolyzed Collagen Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging Icon
Helps with Anti-AgingHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Hydrolyzed collagen has a misleading name because it is actually a mixture of various proteins/peptides. This ingredient has skin hydrating properties.

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil Masking, Skin Conditioning
Oil Icon
OilOil Icon

Rosa Damascena Flower Oil is an essential oil made from the Damask Rose. It is often used as a fragrance in cosmetics.

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Caprylyl Glycol Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant and emollient, meaning it attracts and preserves moisture.

Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract.

Unknown Full details ->
Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate Antimicrobial

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid. This bacteria is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

C12-16 Alcohols Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising

We don't have a description for C12-16 Alcohols.

Very Disliked Full details ->
Palmitic Acid Emollient, Emulsifying
2 / 0 May worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
2 Concerns

Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid found in our skin. In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It is a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.

2 Com. / 0 Irr.
Very Disliked Full details ->
Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract Astringent, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract.

Saussurea Involucrata Extract Humectant

We don't have a description for Saussurea Involucrata Extract.

Unknown Full details ->
Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract Astringent, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing

We don't have a description for Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract.

Royal Jelly Extract Skin Conditioning

Royal Jelly Extract comes from a secretion made by worker honeybees. This secretion is white and described as creamy.

Maltodextrin Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning

Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide. It is derived from starch such as rice, corn, wheat, or potato starch.

Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract.

Unknown Full details ->
Centella Asiatica Extract Cleansing, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon
2 Benefits

Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

Prunus Persica Fruit Extract Abrasive, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning
Exfoliant Icon
ExfoliantExfoliant Icon

Prunus Persica Fruit Extract comes from peaches.

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
OilOil Icon Not safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil also known as seabuckthorn oil. This oil is usually extracted from the fruit pulp or seeds.

Achillea Millefolium Extract Cleansing, Masking, Refreshing

Achillea Millefolium Extract comes from the yarrow plant. Yarrow is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids.

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract comes from the outer layer of a rice kernel. It is a byproduct of milling rice, or the operation to produce a whole grain rice product.

Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract.

Unknown Full details ->
Milk Extract Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Milk Extract.

Unknown Full details ->
Pearl Extract Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon
AntioxidantAntioxidant Icon

Pearl Extract comes from, well, pearls. Pearls are harvested from oysters.

Unknown Full details ->
Cholesterol Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon
2 Benefits

Cholesterol is a class of organic molecules called lipids. It helps hydrate your skin and is essential to having a healthy skin barrier.

0 Com. / 0 Irr.
Propolis Extract Skin Conditioning
Helps fight Acne Icon
Helps fight AcneHelps fight Acne Icon

Propolis Extract is also known as bee glue.

Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil Emollient, Skin Conditioning
0-2 / 0 Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
OilOil Icon Helps hydrate Dry SkinHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon Not safe for Fungal AcneNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

This ingredient is the fixed oil extracted from seeds of the desert shrub Jojoba. It is more commonly known as jojoba oil. The seed oil is liquid wax ester from the plant. It is non-comedogenic.

0-2 Com. / 0 Irr.
Retinyl Palmitate Skin Conditioning
1-3 / 1-3 Retinoid IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconCan worsen Dry Skin IconMay cause irritation IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
RetinoidRetinoid Icon 7 Benefits 3 Concerns

Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.

1-3 Com. / 1-3 Irr.
Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract.

Unknown Full details ->
Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant, Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid Icon
Hyaluronic AcidHyaluronic Acid Icon

Sodium Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid's salt form. It is commonly derived from the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

0 Com. / 0 Irr.
Saccharide Hydrolysate Humectant

We don't have a description for Saccharide Hydrolysate.

Unknown Full details ->
Stearic Acid Cleansing, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising
2-3 / 0 May worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
2 Concerns

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid. It is an emollient, emulsifier, and texture enhancer.

2-3 Com. / 0 Irr.
Very Disliked Full details ->
Glucose Humectant

Glucose is a simple sugar and is the most important source of energy in all organisms.

Chondrus Crispus Extract Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon
Helps hydrate Dry SkinHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Chondrus Crispus Extract comes from a red algae native to the northern Atlantic coasts of Europe and North America.

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract.

Unknown Full details ->
Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract Astringent, Masking, Tonic

Blackberry extract is rich in antioxidants and Vitamin C. The majority of antioxidants include flavonoid, phenolic, and anthocyanins.

Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent
Antioxidant Icon
AntioxidantAntioxidant Icon

Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract is an antioxidant.

Unknown Full details ->
Tocopherol Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin IconMay cause irritation Icon
Vitamin EVitamin E Icon AntioxidantAntioxidant Icon 4 Benefits May cause irritationMay cause irritation Icon

Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.

0-3 Com. / 0-3 Irr.
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate

This form of hyaluronic acid is produced through fermentation.

Rutin Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning
Antioxidant Icon
AntioxidantAntioxidant Icon

Rutin is an antioxidant.

Unknown Full details ->
Hydroxycinnamic Acid Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydroxycinnamic Acid.

Unknown Full details ->
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid Humectant, Skin Conditioning
Hyaluronic Acid Icon
Hyaluronic AcidHyaluronic Acid Icon

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a form of hyaluronic acid. It is created by the hydrolysis of hyaluronic acid with a high molecular weight. Once created, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid has a low molecular weight.

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid Icon
Hyaluronic AcidHyaluronic Acid Icon

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.

Squalane Emollient, Skin Conditioning
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon
Helps hydrate Dry SkinHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Squalane is an emollient that helps the skin hold onto moisture. It's an oily liquid that occurs naturally in certain types of fish and plant oils.

1 Com. / 0 Irr.
Hyaluronic Acid Humectant, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning
Hyaluronic Acid IconGood for Skin Texture IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin IconMay cause irritation Icon
Hyaluronic AcidHyaluronic Acid Icon 4 Benefits May cause irritationMay cause irritation Icon

Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in healthy skin. It is a humectant, meaning it draws moisture to your skin.

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer Humectant, Skin Conditioning
Hyaluronic Acid Icon
Hyaluronic AcidHyaluronic Acid Icon

Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a type of hyaluronic acid. In fact, it is modified version of hyaluronic acid.

Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.

Potassium Hyaluronate Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Potassium Hyaluronate.

Dunaliella Salina Extract Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Dunaliella Salina Extract.

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Disodium EDTA

Disodium EDTA plays a role in making products more stable by aiding other preservatives.

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Parfum Masking, Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon
FragranceFragrance Icon 2 Concerns

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

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Citronellol Perfuming
Fragrance IconEU Allergen Icon
FragranceFragrance Icon EU AllergenEU Allergen Icon

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

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Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone Perfuming, Skin Conditioning
Fragrance IconEU Allergen Icon
FragranceFragrance Icon EU AllergenEU Allergen Icon

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is a fragrance. It can be synthetically created or naturally occurring.

Unknown Full details ->

Rosa Damascena Flower Water 74%, Glycerin, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Water, Dipropylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Polysorbate 60, Propanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Rosa Damascena Extract, Tromethamine, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Ethylhexylglycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Adenosine, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Allantoin, Panthenol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Butylene Glycol, Rice Ferment Filtrate, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Ceramide 3, Cyanocobalamin, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Rosa Damascena Flower Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, C12-16 Alcohols, Palmitic Acid, Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract, Saussurea Involucrata Extract, Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract, Royal Jelly Extract, Maltodextrin, Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Prunus Persica Fruit Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil, Achillea Millefolium Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract, Milk Extract, Pearl Extract, Cholesterol, Propolis Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Retinyl Palmitate, Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Saccharide Hydrolysate, Stearic Acid, Glucose, Chondrus Crispus Extract, Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract, Rubus Fruticosus Fruit Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Rutin, Hydroxycinnamic Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Squalane, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Potassium Hyaluronate, Dunaliella Salina Extract, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Citronellol, Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Ingredient Ratings

Based on the number of likes and dislikes each ingredient has received.

42
10
15
14
liked
mixed
disliked
not rated

Ingredients Explained

This product contains 81 ingredients. Click on any ingredient to learn more about it
Masking, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting
Liked

Rosa Damascena Flower Water comes from the Damask rose. It is a dilluted version of the Rose Essential oil.

The Damask Roses' petals have been found to help sooth skin. The petals also contain antioxidant compounds.

Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. This may help reduce the signs of aging.

The fragrance of Rosa Damascena Flower Water may be used for masking. Masking ingredients are used to obscure or block properties of other ingredients. They are commonly used to block the scent of a product.

Learn more about Rosa Damascena Flower Water
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting
Loved

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

A study from 2016 found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.

As a humectant, it helps the skin stay hydrated by pulling moisture to your skin. The low molecular weight of glycerin allows it to pull moisture into the deeper layers of your skin.

Hydrated skin improves your skin barrier; Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.

Glycerin has also been found to have antimicrobial and antiviral properties. Due to these properties, glycerin is often used in wound and burn treatments.

In cosmetics, glycerin is usually derived from plants such as soybean or palm. However, it can also be sourced from animals, such as tallow or animal fat.

This ingredient is organic, colorless, odorless, and non-toxic.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Emollient
Mixed

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.

It is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to products when applied. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Loved

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Masking, Solvent
Disliked

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created stabilizer and solvent. It is a part of the glycol class in the alcohol family.

Dipropylene Glycol helps dissolve and evenly distribute ingredients. It also helps decrease viscosity and thin out texture.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Learn more about Dipropylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning, Solvent
Mixed

1,2-Hexanediol is a multi-tasker ingredient. It acts as a preservative to increase shelf-life and can aid other preservatives in preventing microbe growth. 1,2-Hexanediol also helps the skin retain moisture as a humectant.

In products that are water-based, this ingredient can help stabilize perfumes and fragrances. It can also help make the texture of products softer and more smooth.

Smoothing
Loved

Niacinamide has emerged as an all-star ingredient due to its many benefits.

It is known to treat acne by reducing inflammation. It also helps fade dark-spots and strengthen the skin by promoting the growth of the ceramide barrier.

Other benefits include smoothing wrinkles and minimizing redness.

The cherry on top? Niacinamide can also help build keratin, a protein that keeps skin firm.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

Niacinamide can be mixed with other ingredients to boost benefits. For instance, it has shown to be effective when used with copper, folic acid, and zinc to treat acne.

Learn more about Niacinamide
Emulsifying
Very Disliked

Polysorbate 60 is used to help stabilize products. It is a surfactant and emulsifier. These properties help keep ingredients together in a product. Surfactants help reduce surface tension between ingredients with different states, such as liquids and solids. Emulsifiers help prevent oils and waters from separating.

Polysorbate 60 is sorbitol-based and created from the ethoxylation of sorbitan. Ethoxylation is a chemical reaction used to add ethylene oxide. Sorbitan is a the dehydrated version of sorbitol, a sugar found in fruits.

In this case, the 60 comes from reacting 60 units of ethylene oxide with sorbitan.

Polysorbates are commonly used in medicine and foods.

Learn more about Polysorbate 60
Solvent
Liked

Propanediol helps absorb ingredients into your skin, boosting their benefits. It can act as an emollient, making your skin softer. Propanediol can help products last longer by boosting the properties of preservatives within the formulation.

Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use.

It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.

Learn more about Propanediol
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Very Disliked

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is created from fatty coconut alcohol, caprylic acid, and capric acid.

It is a lightweight emollient. Emollients create a thin barrier on the skin to trap moisture in. This helps keep your skin hydrated and soft.

Once applied, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is absorbed quickly and leaves a silky feel.

Coco-Caprylate/Caprate may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Masking, Tonic
Mixed

Rosa Damascena Extract comes from the Damask rose.

The Damask Roses' petals have been found to help sooth skin. The petals also contain antioxidant compounds.

Rosa Damascena Extract is a tonic. Tonics are used to remove soap residues. They also help moisturize the skin.

Learn more about Rosa Damascena Extract
Buffering, Masking
Liked

Tromethamine is an aliphatic compound. An aliphatic compound is an organic compound with open-chained carbon atoms. It is synthetically created. Tromethamine is used to balance pH and improve texture.

As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.

Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.

1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-

Learn more about Tromethamine
Emulsion Stabilising
Disliked

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken and improve the texture of products.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is also an emulsifier. Due to its properties, it can prevent water and oil ingredients from separating.

Skin Conditioning
Mixed

Ethylhexylglycerin (we can't pronounce this either) is commonly used as a preservative and skin softener. It is derived from glyceryl.

You might see Ethylhexylglycerin often paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol. Ethylhexylglycerin has been found to increase the effectiveness of these other preservatives.

Masking, Skin Conditioning
Mixed

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.

Within a product, Caprylic Triglyceride can thicken the product and make spreadability easier by dissolving clumping compounds. An added benefit of Caprylic Triglyceride is its antioxidant properties.

Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Caprylic Triglyceride has not been found to be toxic for human use in concentrations under 50%.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Skin Conditioning
Loved

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.

Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.

In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.

Learn more about Adenosine
Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
Disliked

Carbomer is a polymer of acrylic acid. Its main role is to create gel consistency within products.

Carbomer is commonly found in many types of cosmetics products. It is found to be safe in concentrations up to 15%. However, a high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Most products contain 1% of less of carbomer.

Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming
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Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum
Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Soothing
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Allantoin plays a role in soothing and moisturizing the skin. Because of this, it is often added to products with strong active ingredients.

Some studies have shown this ingredient can promote wound healing with higher concentrations.

Allantoin is derived from the comfrey plant but produced synthetically for cosmetic products to ensure purity.

Learn more about Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
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Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It can be found naturally in our skin and hair.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5 or dexpanthenol in dermatology.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

Learn more about Panthenol
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning
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Hydrogenated Lecithin is created from the hydrogenation of lecithin. Hydrogenation is a chemical reaction between molecule hydrogen and another element.

Hydrogenated Lecithin is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps soften skin by trapping moisture within.

The phospholipids in Hydrogenated Lecithin can produce liposomes. Liposomes help other ingredients get through the skin barrier to be better absorbed.

As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Lecithin
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning
Mixed

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

  • It is a solvent, meaning that it helps to dissolve other ingredients. This also enhances the absorption of the product into one's skin.
  • It is a humectant, which means that it helps attract moisture into the skin.
  • It helps improve product application.

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient. It is unlikely to irritate skin, and works well with pretty much all other ingredients.

Skin Conditioning
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Rice Ferment Filtrate is created by fermenting rice, or oryza sativa. A common name for this ingredient is sake, the traditional Japanese fermented rice alcoholic beverage.

Rice ferment is skin-conditioning and contains anti-aging components.

Rice contains numerous antioxidants which may help with anti-aging, such as vitamin E. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radical molecules. Unstable free-radical molecules may damage your skin cells and accelerate signs of aging.

A study from 2013 found fermented rice water to help decrease sun damage by increasing collagen production.

Learn more about Rice Ferment Filtrate
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
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Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract comes from the cucumber. Cucumis Sativus is native to South Asia and can now be found on every continent.

Cucumbers are mostly made up of water (95%), and the other 5% is composed of: vitamin C, caffeic acid, fatty acids, amino acids, and other minerals.

Cucumbers have anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating properties.

Vitamin C and Caffeic acid are potent antioxidants that may help with anti-aging. Antioxidants help neutralize free-radical molecules, or unstable molecules that may damage our skin cells and DNA.

Cucumbers contain shikimate dehydrigenase, an enzyme shown to help reduce inflammation and soothe the skin. The amino acids help nourish our skin's natural acid mantle. Our acid mantle is formed from the mixing of sebum and sweat. This slightly acidic film acts as a barrier to protect us from bacteria, viruses, and other contaminants.

Unless you have an allergy to cucumbers, it is generally a non-irritating ingredient.

Learn more about Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning
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We don't have a description for Morus Alba Bark Extract.

We don't have a description for Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate.

Skin Conditioning
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Ceramide 3 is a form of ceramide.

Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin.

Ceramides are an important building block for our skin barrier. A stronger barrier helps the skin look more firm and hydrated. By bolstering the skin ceramides act as a barrier against irritating ingredients. This can help with inflammation as well.

If you would like to eat ceramides, sweet potatoes contain a small amount.

Read more about other common types of ceramides here: Ceramide AP Ceramide EOP Ceramide NP

Ceramide 3 (Retired) is the N-acylated phytosphingosine having the erythro structure that conforms generally to the formula, where m has a value ranging from 12 to 28 in which the acyl moiety may be saturated, mono-unsaturated, or di-unsaturated and n has a value ranging from 10 to 20. The INCI Name, Ceramide 3, originally developed in 1997, was designated with a retired status in 2014. For an interim period of time, trade name assignments formerly published with the INCI Name Ceramide 3 will be retained in the retired monograph, and also published with the new name assignment, Ceramide NP.

Learn more about Ceramide 3
Skin Conditioning
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Cyanocobalamin is the manufactured version of vitamin B12. Our bodies use B12 for cell production.

There is limited research on how Cyanocobalamin affects your skin.

Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic
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Zingiber Officinale is more commonly known as ginger.

Ginger root has antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial properties.

The antioxidant properties help protect your body from free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. As a result, ginger may help slow down signs of aging such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.

Studies show ginger inhibits the enzyme that breaks down collagen. It also helps with:

Ginger has no negative side-effects and is safe to use for all skin types. (Be sure to patch test just in case you have a ginger allergy!)

Ginger originates from Southeast Asia but has spread throughout the world. It is now a common spice used in many cultures.

Learn more about Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Skin Conditioning
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Houttuynia Cordata Extract is more commonly known as Heart Leaf, Fish Mint, or Chameleon plant.

The components found in Heart Leaf give it antioxidant, hydrating, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Heart Leaf is rich in flavonoids such as quercetin, apigenin, and more. It also contains polysaccharides, the most common type of carbs in food.

Flavonoids have been shown to be effective antioxidants. They help neutralize free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are unstable molecules that may damage our skin cells and DNA. The flavonoids in Heart Leaf also help soothe the skin.

Polysaccharides are naturally found in our skin. They play a role in hydrating and repairing the top layer of skin. The polysaccharides in Heart Leaf help moisturize our skin.

Studies show decanoyl acetaldehyde, a component of Heart Leaf oil, is effective at killing bacteria.

The name 'Fish Mint' comes from the herb's natural fishy smell. Is is native to southeast Asia and used throughout the continent for traditional cooking and medicine.

Learn more about Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin Conditioning
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Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract is extract from peppermint leaves.

Studies show peppermint extract have antimicrobial properties against some bacteria and fungi.

In large percentages, peppermint extract may sensitize the skin.

Learn more about Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract
Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning
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Hydrolyzed collagen has a misleading name because it is actually a mixture of various proteins/peptides. This ingredient has skin hydrating properties.

Collagen is the most abundant type of structural protein found in your body. In your skin, it is responsible for keeping it firm and youthful.

Hydrolyzed Collagen is created by breaking up proteins into smaller peptide bonds. These peptides act as humectants and emollients.

Humectants are great at holding onto water, keeping skin hydrated. Emollients create a thin barrier on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.

There is ongoing debate about whether hydrolyzed collagen works because it increases skin hydration. Skin hydration is also linked to elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles.

Collagen or peptide ingredients can be used in the morning or night. They will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.

According to a manufacturer, this ingredient is a great hair conditioner as well.

This ingredient can be extracted from different sources, including:

Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources. Vegan collagen would go by a different INCI name, such as hydrolyzed soy protein.

The results are varied.

A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.

However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.

Further studies are needed at this time.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Collagen
Masking, Skin Conditioning
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Rosa Damascena Flower Oil is an essential oil made from the Damask Rose. It is often used as a fragrance in cosmetics.

Rose Oil has antibacterial and antioxidant properties due to its terpene, glycoside, flavonoid, anthocyanin, and Vitamin C content. The petals of the Damask Rose have shown to have soothing effects on skin.

Other major parts of Rose Oil include citronellol and geraniol. Both of these are known EU allergens and cause contact-allergies.

Learn more about Rosa Damascena Flower Oil
Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning
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Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant and emollient, meaning it attracts and preserves moisture.

It is a common ingredient in many products, especially those designed to hydrate skin. The primary benefits are retaining moisture, skin softening, and promoting a healthy skin barrier.

Though Caprylyl Glycol is an alcohol derived from fatty acids, it is not the kind that can dry out skin.

This ingredient is also used as a preservative to extend the life of products. It has slight antimicrobial properties.

Learn more about Caprylyl Glycol
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Prunus Armeniaca Fruit Extract.

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid. This bacteria is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.

It is believed the preservation property comes from salicylic acid and ammonium salt, neither of which are involved in the fermentation process.

Learn more about Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising
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We don't have a description for C12-16 Alcohols.

Emollient, Emulsifying
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Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid found in our skin. In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It is a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.

As an emollient, it helps hydrate the skin. The emulsifying properties keep ingredients together in a product.

Palmitic Acid may not be fungal-acne safe. It can worsen oily skin and cause breakouts due to its emollient nature.

Learn more about Palmitic Acid
Astringent, Skin Conditioning
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We don't have a description for Psidium Guajava Fruit Extract.

We don't have a description for Saussurea Involucrata Extract.

Astringent, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing
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We don't have a description for Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract.

Skin Conditioning
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Royal Jelly Extract comes from a secretion made by worker honeybees. This secretion is white and described as creamy.

Royal Jelly contains antibacterial, anti-aging, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Studies show Royal Jelly to contain amino acids, fatty acids, and a variety of vitamins, including Vitamin Bs. Many of these components are antioxidants, which help with anti-aging. The fatty acids in Royal Jelly make it a hydrating ingredient.

Several animal studies show Royal Jelly to boost collagen production and reduce inflammation.

The Vitamin Bs found in Royal Jelly include:

Learn more about Royal Jelly Extract
Absorbent, Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning
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Maltodextrin is a polysaccharide. It is derived from starch such as rice, corn, wheat, or potato starch.

In food, Maltodextrin is used to improve the texture and thicken a product. Due to its structure, it can help create a gel texture. As an emulsion stabilizer, it helps keep the ingredients in a product together.

As a polysaccharide, Maltodextrin has moisturizing properties. Polysaccharides are a type of carbohydrate. The top layer of skin uses polysaccharides to retain water, keeping the skin hydrated.

Maltodextrin is water soluble and has a sweet taste.

Learn more about Maltodextrin

We don't have a description for Prunus Serrulata Flower Extract.

Cleansing, Skin Conditioning, Smoothing
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Centella Asiatica Extract (Centella) is derived from an herb native to Southeast Asia. It is famous for its anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

Centella is rich in antioxidants and amino acids, such as Madecassic Acid and Asiaticoside.

Studies show the compounds in centella help with:

The combination of all these properties makes centella effective at soothing, hydrating, and protecting the skin.

Other great components of centella include Vitamin A, vitamin C, several B vitamins, and Asiatic Acid.

Fun fact: Centella has been used as a medicine and in food for many centuries. As a medicine, it is used to treat burns, scratches, and wounds.

Learn more about Centella Asiatica Extract
Abrasive, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning
Mixed

Prunus Persica Fruit Extract comes from peaches.

Peaches are rich in antioxidants, such as Vitamins C, E and A. Antioxidants help reduce the signs of aging. These vitamins also have plenty of skin benefits on their own (for instance, Vitamin C, E helps with skin brightening).

Peach extract is also an abrasive. Abrasives are an agent used to wear away the surface of skin. They are used to help polish or exfoliate skin.

Emerging research shows Peach extract may help protect UV-B induced skin damage. However, further research is needed.

Learn more about Prunus Persica Fruit Extract
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
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Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil also known as seabuckthorn oil. This oil is usually extracted from the fruit pulp or seeds.

Seabuckthorn is rich in phytosterols, carotenoids, Vitamins A, C, and E. This gives it strong antioxidant properties that can help soothe and protect your skin from oxidative damage.

This oil is rich in fatty acids, including: two types of linoleic acid (~30-34%), oleic acid (17%), and palmiteic acid (35%). Note these numbers are averages, and different parts of the plant will vary.

Palmitoleic acid has been shown to help soothe inflammation and promote wound healing. It is also naturally found in the fat of our skin.

Overall, seabuckthorn oil is great for nourishing, hydrating, and soothing skin. While it shows UV protecting properties, it should not replace sunscreen.

Due to the rich fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal acne, safe.

Seabuckthorn berries are little orange fruits. This plant is native to Asia.

Learn more about Hippophae Rhamnoides Oil
Cleansing, Masking, Refreshing
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Achillea Millefolium Extract comes from the yarrow plant. Yarrow is rich in antioxidants and fatty acids.

Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting
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Oryza Sativa Bran Extract comes from the outer layer of a rice kernel. It is a byproduct of milling rice, or the operation to produce a whole grain rice product.

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract is moisturizing. This is due to its components of polysaccharides and omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains calcium, selenium, phosphorus, iron, and zinc.

Oryza Sativa Bran Extract contains numerous antioxidants such as ferulic acid. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material.

Learn more about Oryza Sativa Bran Extract

We don't have a description for Leontopodium Alpinum Flower/Leaf Extract.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Milk Extract.

Antioxidant

Pearl Extract comes from, well, pearls. Pearls are harvested from oysters.

Pearls are rich in amino-acids, magnesium, potassium, calcium, and antioxidant compounds.

Two antioxidants found in pearls include: superoxide dismutase (SOD) and glutathione. Antioxidants aid in reducing the signs of aging.

Studies show pearls can aid in wound healing.

Pearls are harvested from oysters. To be vegan, an ingredient cannot be from an animal source.

Learn more about Pearl Extract
Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning
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Cholesterol is a class of organic molecules called lipids. It helps hydrate your skin and is essential to having a healthy skin barrier.

Our skin naturally contains cholesterol in the outermost layer. Besides cholesterol, it also contains ceramides and fatty acids. Cholesterol makes up about 1/4 of your skin's outer layer and barrier. Your skin barrier is responsible for keeping allergens and microbes out. Having a healthy skin barrier is also responsible for keeping your skin firm and plump.

Our bodies use cholestrol to create vitamin D, steroid hormones, and more.

Learn more about Cholesterol
Skin Conditioning
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Propolis Extract is also known as bee glue.

This ingredient has antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, wound healing, and antioxidant properties.

Studies show propolis helps fight against bacteria, viruses, and fungi. This may help with reducing acne and accelerate wound healing.

The flavonoids found in propolis extract are potent antioxidants. Antioxidants may help with reducing the signs of aging.

A study from 2020 found propolis to help reverse skin damage from UV.

Fun facts: This ingredient is created by mixing beeswax, bee saliva, and parts of trees. Bees use propolis as a sealant to close any gaps in their hives.

Since it is an animal-derived product, this ingredient is not considered vegan. For vegan alternatives, check out Galactomyces Ferment Filtrate or Centella Asiatica Extract.

Learn more about Propolis Extract
Emollient, Skin Conditioning
Mixed

This ingredient is the fixed oil extracted from seeds of the desert shrub Jojoba. It is more commonly known as jojoba oil. The seed oil is liquid wax ester from the plant. It is non-comedogenic.

Jojoba oil does not contain fragrance and has many fatty-acids, making it a great soothing ingredient. Jojoba contains Vitamin E, a great moisturizing ingredient. Vitamin E is also an antioxidant. Antioxidants help protect your skin against free-radical damage. This may help in anti-aging.

Jojoba seed oil is a humectant, meaning it helps draw moisture from the air. This helps keep your skin hydrated.

While jojoba has antibacterial properties, it is only able to kill some bacteria. It has also been shown to help in wound healing. Indigenous cultures have used jojoba as a moisturizer and to help treat burns.

It is found to be similar to natural human skin sebum, so it has a great effect on dry skin. Jojoba oil may even help with regulating sebum production.

Although jojoba oil is non-comedogenic, we recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient if you have any concerns.

Jojoba oil may not be fungal acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Jojoba is native to the southwestern US.

Learn more about Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Mixed

Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.

This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.

First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.

This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.

Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.

Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:

Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.

This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.

The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.

While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.

All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.

Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate

Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.

Learn more about Retinyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Lepidium Meyenii Root Extract.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning
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Sodium Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid's salt form. It is commonly derived from the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

Like hyaluronic acid, it is great at holding water and acts as a humectant. This makes it a great skin hydrating ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate is naturally occurring in our bodies and is mostly found in eye fluid and joints.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate

We don't have a description for Saccharide Hydrolysate.

Cleansing, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising
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Stearic Acid is a fatty acid. It is an emollient, emulsifier, and texture enhancer.

As an emollient, stearic acid helps soften skin. It aids the skin's protective barrier by preventing water loss. It also provides a gentle cleansing effect without stripping away natural oils.

Stearic acid may also be used to enhance the texture of products. It can add volume and stabilize ingredients such as water and oil. This can help water and oil ingredients from separating.

Sources of stearic acid include animal or vegetable fats/oils such as coconut or shea. It can be naturally found in butter, cocoa butter, shea butter, vegetable fats, and animal tallow.

This ingredient may not be Malassezia folliculitis, or fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Stearic Acid
Humectant
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Glucose is a simple sugar and is the most important source of energy in all organisms.

In skincare, glucose is used to hydrate the skin. It also acts as a prebiotic for our natural biome.

Glucose is hydrating due to its humectant property. As a humectant, glucose draws moisture from the air and from deeper levels in the skin.

Our skin contains many sugars that act as prebiotics and help strengthen our natural microbiome. Having a healthy microbiome helps protect our skin from harmful bacteria and other contaminants.

Studies show glucose may help with fading discoloration and pigmentation. This is because our skin metabolizes glucose into lactic acid. Lactic acid is an AHA that helps exfoliate the top layer of skin.

Learn more about Glucose
Skin Conditioning
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Chondrus Crispus Extract comes from a red algae native to the northern Atlantic coasts of Europe and North America.

Chondrus Crispus Extract helps hydrate the skin and is rich in antioxidants.

The antioxidants in chondrus crispus help fight free-radical molecules. These molecules may damage skin cells and DNA. Antioxidants present in chondrus crispus include lutein and zeaxanthin.

Lutein has the ability to filter blue light from screens.

Other contents of chondrus crispus include polysaccharides, peptides, and amino acids. These help hydrate the skin.

Learn more about Chondrus Crispus Extract

We don't have a description for Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract.

Astringent, Masking, Tonic
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Blackberry extract is rich in antioxidants and Vitamin C. The majority of antioxidants include flavonoid, phenolic, and anthocyanins.

Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution. This may help reduce the symptoms related to aging.

Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Astringent

Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Extract is an antioxidant.

Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning
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Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.

Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.

Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.

You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.

There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.

Learn more about Tocopherol

This form of hyaluronic acid is produced through fermentation.

According to a manufacturer, it has a positive charge by ionic binding to help moisturize and give hair a smooth feel. This is why you'll find this ingredient in shampoos and body washes.

Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Rutin is an antioxidant.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydroxycinnamic Acid.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning
Liked

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid is a form of hyaluronic acid. It is created by the hydrolysis of hyaluronic acid with a high molecular weight. Once created, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid has a low molecular weight.

Low molecular weight HA has been shown to hydrate and increase elasticity of the skin. Increasing elasticity is also associated with reduction of wrinkle depth.

One study found topical low molecular weight hyaluronic acid may be considered for the treatment of rosacea in the adult population. However, we always recommend speaking with a professional about your skin concerns.

Hyaluronic acids are a humectant. This means they draw moisture from the air. Hyaluronic acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.

Read more about other common forms of hyaluronic acid:

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate is a type of Hyaluronic Acid.

Hyaluronic Acids help moisturize, soothe, and protect the skin.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning
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Squalane is an emollient that helps the skin hold onto moisture. It's an oily liquid that occurs naturally in certain types of fish and plant oils.

Because squalane boosts hydration in the skin, it also comes with plenty of benefits: it is an antioxidant and can help fight free radicals and skin damage. Squalane is also found to have a detoxifying effect when applied.

Squalane comes from squalene, which occurs naturally within the sebum of our skin. It is one of the oils our skin produces to keep itself hydrated. Squalane is the hydrogenated version of squalene and has a longer shelf life.

Research shows that squalane is non-irritating (even at 100% concentration).

In general, it's a fantastic ingredient. It does a great job at hydrating the skin, and it's suitable for those with sensitive skin.

The source of squalane may impact malassezia / fungal acne. This is because olive oil derived squalane can contain impurities such as fatty acids and plant waxes. Sugarcane derived squalane is recommended for anyone with malassezia concerns.

Is squalane vegan?

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Learn more about Squalane
Humectant, Moisturising, Skin Conditioning
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Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in healthy skin. It is a humectant, meaning it draws moisture to your skin.

This ingredient helps hydrate, soothe, and protect the skin.

What makes hyaluronic acid so hydrating? It has the capacity to bind or hold large amounts of water.

Fun fact: It is already naturally found in our bodies, such as the fluids of our eyes and our joints.

Studies find this ingredient to have anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties. This can help speed up wound-healing,

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant, Skin Conditioning
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Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer is a type of hyaluronic acid. In fact, it is modified version of hyaluronic acid.

The structure of Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer allows it to stay in the skin's top layer for a longer period of time. This allows for even more hydration and humectant action than hyaluronic acid.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning
Mixed

This ingredient is created by putting sodium hyaluronate through hydrolysis.

You might know this as 'mini' or 'ultra low-molecular weight' hyaluronic acid. The small molecule size means it is able to travel deeper in the skin.

According to studies, low molecular-weight hyaluronic acid can:

One study from 2011 found ultra-low weight HA to show pro-inflammatory properties. Another study from 2022 found it to downregulate UV-B induced inflammation.

Hydrolysis is a process of changing a molecule using water or enzymes.

This ingredient is water-soluble.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin Conditioning
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We don't have a description for Potassium Hyaluronate.

Skin Conditioning
Disliked

We don't have a description for Dunaliella Salina Extract.

Disliked

Disodium EDTA plays a role in making products more stable by aiding other preservatives.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it neutralizes metal ions that may be found in a product.

Disodium EDTA is a salt of edetic acid and is found to be safe in cosmetic ingredients.

Learn more about Disodium EDTA
Masking, Perfuming
Very Disliked

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

In the US, the alternative name for parfum is 'fragrance'.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

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Perfuming
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Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

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Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is a fragrance. It can be synthetically created or naturally occurring.

The scent of Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone is described as "flowery" but can also be "woody".

Naturally occurring Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone may be found in Saccharomyces cerevisiae, or the yeast used to make wine and bread.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

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