What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientStearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
EmulsifyingSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Skin ConditioningBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeParfum
MaskingAmodimethicone
Glycine 1%
BufferingGlutamic Acid
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantHydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetrimonium Chloride
AntimicrobialTrideceth-3
EmulsifyingTrideceth-15
EmulsifyingDimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantHydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Skin ConditioningSodium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Japonica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCeratonia Siliqua Fruit Extract
MaskingDiospyros Kaki Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningPerilla Frutescens Leaf Extract
MaskingAcetic Acid
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantGlycine Max Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPropanediol
SolventEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPisum Sativum Peptide
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAspartic Acid
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningAsparagine
MaskingGlutamine
Skin ConditioningTryptophan
MaskingTaurine
BufferingAlanine
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Valine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningHistidine
HumectantMethionine
Skin ConditioningCysteine
AntioxidantAlcohol
AntimicrobialWater, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Stearyl Alcohol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Behentrimonium Chloride, Parfum, Amodimethicone, Glycine 1%, Glutamic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Starch Phosphate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetrimonium Chloride, Trideceth-3, Trideceth-15, Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Sodium Gluconate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Caprylyl Glycol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Allantoin, Niacinamide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Cetyl Alcohol, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Camellia Japonica Leaf Extract, Ceratonia Siliqua Fruit Extract, Diospyros Kaki Fruit Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Acetic Acid, Tocopherol, Biotin, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Ascorbic Acid, Glycine Max Seed Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Propanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Arginine, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Pisum Sativum Peptide, Ceramide NP, Serine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Asparagine, Glutamine, Tryptophan, Taurine, Alanine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Alcohol
Water
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientHydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientSteartrimonium Bromide
PreservativeButylene Glycol
HumectantCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientAminopropyl Dimethicone
Behentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeIsopropyl Alcohol
SolventBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientEthylhexyl Isononanoate
EmollientAmodimethicone
Glycerin
HumectantCocamide Mea
EmulsifyingC12-14 Sec-Pareth-7
EmulsifyingAlcohol
AntimicrobialDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPropylene Glycol
HumectantHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantHydrolyzed Corn Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Keratin
HumectantHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientEthyl Ester Of Hydrolyzed Silk
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingBetaine
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Silk
HumectantPEG-14m
Emulsion StabilisingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingRicinus Communis Seed Oil
MaskingVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningCanola Oil
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningLeptospermum Petersonii Oil
MaskingAdansonia Digitata Seed Oil
EmollientOrbignya Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientSaururus Chinensis Extract
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningAcorus Gramineus Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningPinus Thunbergii Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningRehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningChitosan
Hydrolyzed Chitosan
Skin ConditioningTrehalose
HumectantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDisodium EDTA
Parfum
MaskingButylphenyl Methylpropional
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingBenzyl Salicylate
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingWater, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Steartrimonium Bromide, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Aminopropyl Dimethicone, Behentrimonium Chloride, Isopropyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Ethylhexyl Isononanoate, Amodimethicone, Glycerin, Cocamide Mea, C12-14 Sec-Pareth-7, Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Corn Protein, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ethyl Ester Of Hydrolyzed Silk, Lactic Acid, Betaine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Silk, PEG-14m, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Ricinus Communis Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Canola Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Leptospermum Petersonii Oil, Adansonia Digitata Seed Oil, Orbignya Oleifera Seed Oil, Saururus Chinensis Extract, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Acorus Gramineus Root/Stem Extract, Pinus Thunbergii Leaf Extract, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Chitosan, Hydrolyzed Chitosan, Trehalose, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate, Hydroxycitronellal, Coumarin, Citronellol, Limonene, Geraniol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholThis water-soluble silicone is used for its hydrating and softening properties. It is used to add a silky feel to skincare products and has great benefits for haircare.
In haircare, this ingredient:
- Adds shine
- Protects color
- Offers thermal protection
- Boosts hair strength
- Does not build up as easily
You may know this ingredient as argan oil. It has emollient and skin conditioning properties that help soften skin and reinforce the lipid barrier.
The fatty acid profile of argan oil is roughly 45-55% oleic acid, 28-36% linoleic acid, 10-15% palmitic acid, and 5-7% stearic acid. It also contains vitamin E, sterols, squalene, and polyphenols like ferulic acid.
Two clinical studies in postmenopausal women found that applying argan oil for 60 days significantly improved skin elasticity and moisturization (reduced transepidermal water loss and increased epidermal water content).
Since it is high in oleic and linoleic acid, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. Both of these fall in the C11-C24 range that Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Argania Spinosa Kernel OilThis ingredient is a preservative and often used for it's anti-static properties. You'll most likely see this ingredient in hair conditioners.
It does not cause irritation or sensitization in leave-on products at 1-5%.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCamellia Japonica Seed Oil comes from the Japanese Camellia plant. This plant is native to East Asia and known as "Tsubaki" in Japanese.
Camellia Japonica Seed Oil is rich in oleic acid. This makes it a great emollient. Emollients help soften and soothe the skin by forming a barrier. This barrier traps moisture within, keeping your skin hydated.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.
Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.
Learn more about Dipotassium GlycyrrhizateDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHouttuynia Cordata Extract is more commonly known as Heart Leaf, Fish Mint, or Chameleon plant.
The components found in Heart Leaf give it antioxidant, hydrating, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Heart Leaf is rich in flavonoids such as quercetin, apigenin, and more. It also contains polysaccharides, the most common type of carbs in food.
Flavonoids have been shown to be effective antioxidants. They help neutralize free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are unstable molecules that may damage our skin cells and DNA. The flavonoids in Heart Leaf also help soothe the skin.
Polysaccharides are naturally found in our skin. They play a role in hydrating and repairing the top layer of skin. The polysaccharides in Heart Leaf help moisturize our skin.
Studies show decanoyl acetaldehyde, a component of Heart Leaf oil, is effective at killing bacteria.
The name 'Fish Mint' comes from the herb's natural fishy smell. Is is native to southeast Asia and used throughout the continent for traditional cooking and medicine.
Learn more about Houttuynia Cordata ExtractThis ingredient is also known as olive oil. It has been used in skincare for centuries and science largely backs up its reputation as a nourishing emollient.
The main components of olive oil are oleic acid (55-83%), linoleic acid (3.5-20%), and palmitic acid (7-20%). Oleic acid promotes skin regeneration and helps regulate inflammatory responses.
Squalene is also naturally present in olive oil and exhibits moisturizing and antioxidant properties.
The polyphenols in olive oil also show anti-aging promise; one clinical study found a measurable improvement in skin appearance after 30 days of topical serum use.
Just be aware that applying olive oil directly to skin can weaken the barrier and cause redness. One study with volunteers found even people without sensitive skin experienced a significant reduction in stratum corneum integrity and induced mild erythema.
It's best to use this ingredient as part of a carefully crafted formula (instead of putting it on skin directly from the bottle).
Because it has a 2-3 on the comedogenic scale, it is a moderate risk for acne-prone skin. However, the overall formulation of a product matters more than a few ingredients with comedogenic ratings.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because of the oleic and palmitic acid content. These fall within the C11-24 fatty acid range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize to grow.
Overall, olive oil is a well-studied and nourishing skincare ingredient.
Learn more about Olea Europaea Fruit OilParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water