Smood Problem Solver Gel Cream Moisturizer Versus IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Redness⢠Neutralizing Correcting Cream
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientNiacinamide
SmoothingPropanediol
SolventCyclohexasiloxane
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Hydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
Disodium EDTA
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingCitric Acid
BufferingGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantSqualane
EmollientRosa Canina Fruit Oil
EmollientCholesterol
EmollientArbutin
AntioxidantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningRhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit Extract
HumectantOctyldodecanol
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingTocopherol
AntioxidantPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientLecithin
EmollientAvena Sativa Meal Extract
SoothingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPhytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningCurcuma Longa Root Extract
MaskingCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningRice Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantGlyceryl Linolenate
EmollientGlyceryl Arachidonate
EmollientHyaluronic Acid
HumectantThiamine Hcl
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningPyridoxine
Skin ConditioningFolic Acid
Skin ConditioningBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicPotassium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningCyanocobalamin
Skin ConditioningWater, Butylene Glycol, Dipropylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Propanediol, Cyclohexasiloxane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, C12-16 Alcohols, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Sodium Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sorbitan Isostearate, Polysorbate 60, Citric Acid, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Squalane, Rosa Canina Fruit Oil, Cholesterol, Arbutin, Allantoin, Rhodomyrtus Tomentosa Fruit Extract, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Tocopherol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Lecithin, Avena Sativa Meal Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phytosteryl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ceramide NP, Rice Ferment Filtrate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Panthenol, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Hyaluronic Acid, Thiamine Hcl, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Retinyl Palmitate, Pyridoxine, Folic Acid, Biotin, Potassium Hyaluronate, Cyanocobalamin
Cyclopentasiloxane
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasivePEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningIsododecane
EmollientPropanediol
SolventDimethicone
EmollientPolysilicone-11
Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone
Skin ConditioningPEG-10 Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentSodium Chloride
MaskingPolyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantDecyl Glucoside
CleansingDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingMethicone
EmollientHexyl Laurate
EmollientRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientHydrolyzed Silk
HumectantAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientOlea Europaea Leaf Extract
PerfumingPunica Granatum Extract
AstringentGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingVitis Vinifera Seed Extract
AntimicrobialChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingPrunus Domestica Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningPerfluorodecalin
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingPalmitoyl Oligopeptide
CleansingPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientSilica Dimethyl Silylate
EmollientHyaluronic Acid
HumectantCholesteryl Nonanoate
EmollientCholesteryl Oleyl Carbonate
Skin ConditioningCholesteryl Chloride
Skin ConditioningColloidal Oatmeal
AbsorbentMagnolia Acuminata Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningChrysanthemum Parthenium Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Grandis Peel Oil
MaskingLithospermum Officinale Extract
MaskingAgaricus Bisporus Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCurcuma Longa Root Extract
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantIron Oxides
Cyclopentasiloxane, Water, Silica, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Isododecane, Propanediol, Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone, PEG-10 Dimethicone, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Sodium Chloride, Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, Butylene Glycol, Decyl Glucoside, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Methicone, Hexyl Laurate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydrolyzed Silk, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Olea Europaea Leaf Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Prunus Domestica Seed Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Perfluorodecalin, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Carbomer, Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Hyaluronic Acid, Cholesteryl Nonanoate, Cholesteryl Oleyl Carbonate, Cholesteryl Chloride, Colloidal Oatmeal, Magnolia Acuminata Bark Extract, Chrysanthemum Parthenium Extract, Citrus Grandis Peel Oil, Lithospermum Officinale Extract, Agaricus Bisporus Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Ethylhexylglycerin, CI 77891, Iron Oxides
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientās final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCurcuma Longa Root Extract is from the spice, turmeric. Besides being a healthy and delicious spice, turmeric also has plenty of skincare benefits. It has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and anti-microbial properties.
Turmeric contains curcumin, an antioxidant. Antioxidants help neutralize unstable free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules may damage your skin's cells and DNA. Curcumin may help with anti-aging.
Curcumin also has anti-inflammatory properties and can help soothe skin and reduce irritation. On top of that, curcumin has been shown to help prevent hyperpigmentation from sun damage.
The anti-microbial property of turmeric can make it effective in treating acne. This property has also been shown to help regulate the production of sebum.
Learn more about Curcuma Longa Root ExtractCyclopentasiloxane, or D5, is a silicone used to improve texture of products and trap moisture.
D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.
It is also an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.
Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.
Learn more about CyclopentasiloxaneEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.
One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.
Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.
Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.
Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.
Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root ExtractHyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan (basically a long sugar chain) that your skin already makes on its own. In your skin, HA lives in the extracellular matrix and acts as the body's moisture reservoir.
Topically, HA is a humectant that binds water and helps skin look more plump, smooth, and hydrated.
The only catch is that HA isn't a single thing; it actually comes in a wide range of molecular weights (~50 - 2,000+ kDA) and size matters.
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
This is why the best HA serums blend the two sizes together so you get the best of both worlds.
The majority of cosmetic HA is produced by bacterial fermentation, typically using Streptococcus or Bacillus strains. Typical use levels in skincare sit around 0.1-2%.
A clinical study using a 0.2% low-molecular weight HA gel showed improvement in facial seborrheic dermatitis with excellent tolerance.
These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:
Learn more about Hyaluronic AcidNiacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.
And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.
You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.
In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.
If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.
When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.
When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.
In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).
Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.
Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.
The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.
Learn more about NiacinamidePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Ā
Itās often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRetinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.
This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.
First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.
This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.
Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.
Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:
Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.
This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.
The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.
While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.
All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.
Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate
Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.
Learn more about Retinyl PalmitateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water