What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters
Emulsion StabilisingCetyl Ethylhexanoate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPalmitic Acid
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Stearic Acid
CleansingCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCoptis Japonica Extract
AntimicrobialTrehalose
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningGardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningGlucose
HumectantMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Water, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Lauryl Esters, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycerin, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ascorbic Acid, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Dimethicone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Stearic Acid, Cyclohexasiloxane, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Coptis Japonica Extract, Trehalose, Butylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Allantoin, Glucose, Maltodextrin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Disodium EDTA
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTriethylhexanoin
MaskingNiacinamide
SmoothingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientTrehalose
HumectantCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingFicus Carica Fruit Extract
HumectantDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentPhellodendron Amurense Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract
AntioxidantLactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningMonascus Extract
Skin ConditioningSolanum Melongena Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningVaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin ProtectingBeta Vulgaris Root Extract
Skin ConditioningBrassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCamellia Sinensis Seed Oil
HumectantCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil
MaskingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingSantalum Album Oil
MaskingBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingVinyldimethicone
Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Glycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningRaffinose
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Dextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Shell Powder
AbrasiveLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Acerola Cherry Ferment
Skin ProtectingLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialDisodium EDTA
Lecithin
EmollientGlucose
HumectantPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningMyristic Acid
CleansingSucrose Distearate
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantSaccharomyces Ferment
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLimonene
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingBifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Cyclohexasiloxane, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Triethylhexanoin, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, Water, Dimethicone, Stearyl Alcohol, Trehalose, Centella Asiatica Extract, Ficus Carica Fruit Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum Fruit Ferment Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Monascus Extract, Solanum Melongena Fruit Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Beta Vulgaris Root Extract, Brassica Oleracea Capitata Leaf Extract, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Peel Oil, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Santalum Album Oil, Beeswax, Cetyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Vinyldimethicone, Polyglyceryl-2 Triisostearate, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Glyceryl Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Glycosyl Trehalose, Xanthan Gum, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Adenosine, Raffinose, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Shell Powder, Lactobacillus Ferment, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus/Acerola Cherry Ferment, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactococcus Ferment, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Disodium EDTA, Lecithin, Glucose, Polyquaternium-51, Ceramide NP, Myristic Acid, Sucrose Distearate, Dipropylene Glycol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Saccharomyces Ferment, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ethylhexylglycerin, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol, Linalool
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.
Think of it as a supportive ingredient that helps your gel-creams feel silky, "cloud cream-like", and spread evenly without being greasy.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated it (along with 22 other acryloyldimethyltaurate polymers) and concluded it's:
Due to its large molecular size, it sits on the surface of skin rather than penetrating it.
Learn more about Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp CopolymerCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Glucoside is a sugar-based emulsifier. It is usually made by combining cetearyl alcohol and glucose.
Belonging to the aklyl polyglucoside (APG) family, Cetearyl Glucoside has a sugar "head" that loves water and a fatty "tail" that loves oil. This means it can shuffle oil and water into a stable and smooth emulsion.
Typical use levels are between 1-5% and this ingredient is considered to be non-irritating by the CIR Expert Panel Review.
Once applied, your skin's glucoside hydrolases breaks it down to the parent fatty alcohol and glucose. This is why this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl GlucosideCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholCyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.
Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.
As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.
Learn more about CyclohexasiloxaneDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlucose is a simple sugar (a monosaccharide). In skincare, it is mostly a humectant and skin conditioning agent.
Mechanistically, it has multiple hydroxyl groups that hydrogen-bond to water. This pulls moisture into the upper layers of skin to keep the surface soft and hydrated.
It's worth knowing sugars are already a natural component of the skin's NMF (natural moisturizing factor) so it's a molecule that your stratum corneum is well-acquainted with.
Just so you know, glucose is hydrophilic (water-loving) and the stratum corneum is a strong barrier to hydrophilic compounds. This just means penetration is slow and most of the action is happening on the surface.
Gram-to-gram, glucose is not as efficient as a humectant as glycerin. This is why you'll likely see glycose paired with stronger humectants for a bigger hydration payoff.
In skincare, glucose is typically derived from corn or other starch sources.
Learn more about GlucoseGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidStearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.
Fatty alcohols are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent (ethanol) alcohols.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Stearyl AlcoholTrehalose is a disaccharide made of two glucose molecules (glucose is sugar!). Trehalose is used to help moisturize skin. It also has antioxidant properties.
As a humectant, trehalose helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This helps keep your skin hydrated.
Due to its antioxidant properties, trehalose may help with signs of aging. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules, unstable molecules that may damage your skin.
In medicine, trehalose and hyaluronic acid are used to help treat dry eyes.
Some animals, plants, and bacteria create trehalose as a source of energy to survive freeze or lack of water.
Learn more about TrehaloseWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water