MediCube Retinol-Some 1.9% NMN Boosting Serum Versus Skinmade Star Retinal Super Skin Renewal Night Serum
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Niacinamide and Retinol to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Retinal and Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycereth-26
HumectantNiacinamide
SmoothingGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningBrassica Campestris Sterols
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPhytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
Skin ConditioningAluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate
Emulsion StabilisingPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingTris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate
StabilisingGlyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate
EmulsifyingElaeis Guineensis Oil
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingAluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate
AbsorbentRetinal
Skin ConditioningSqualane
EmollientPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Bifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventEriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMentha Viridis Extract
MaskingSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningNicotinamide Mononucleotide
AntioxidantAkebia Quinata Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl/Capryl Glucoside
CleansingCamellia Japonica Flower Extract
EmollientPolyglyceryl-10 Oleate
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantCarnosine
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningYeast Beta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningFerulic Acid
Antimicrobial3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantWater, Glycereth-26, Niacinamide, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Retinol, Brassica Campestris Sterols, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cholesterol, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Phytosteryl/Behenyl/Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate, Aluminum/Magnesium Hydroxide Stearate, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Tris(Tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol)Citrate, Glyceryl Citrate/Lactate/Linoleate/Oleate, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate, Retinal, Squalane, Polyquaternium-51, Tocopherol, Panthenol, Allantoin, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Dipropylene Glycol, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid, Beta-Glucan, Ceramide NP, Propanediol, Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract, Mentha Viridis Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Pentylene Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Nicotinamide Mononucleotide, Akebia Quinata Extract, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Camellia Japonica Flower Extract, Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Carnosine, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Yeast Beta-Glucan, Ferulic Acid, 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantIsododecane
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantCyclodextrin
AbsorbentHelianthus Annuus Sprout Extract
Skin ConditioningMaltodextrin
AbsorbentSqualane
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantRubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningIsostearic Acid
CleansingLecithin
EmollientPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingRetinal
Skin ConditioningHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil
Skin ProtectingHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientSodium PCA
HumectantClimbazole
AntimicrobialDisodium EDTA
Propanediol
SolventCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer
Skin ConditioningPolyvinyl Alcohol
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingBHT
AntioxidantAcetyl Glutamine
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-9
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-11
Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract
AntioxidantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningLonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
PerfumingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Isododecane, Cetearyl Olivate, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Olivate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Titanium Dioxide, Cyclodextrin, Helianthus Annuus Sprout Extract, Maltodextrin, Squalane, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Isostearic Acid, Lecithin, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Retinal, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Oil, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Sodium PCA, Climbazole, Disodium EDTA, Propanediol, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ethylhexylglycerin, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lactic Acid/Glycolic Acid Copolymer, Polyvinyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, BHT, Acetyl Glutamine, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-9, Sh-Polypeptide-11, Bacillus/Folic Acid Ferment Filtrate Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolRetinal (aka retinaldehyde) is a form of retinoid that formulators use mainly as an antiaging and skin-renewing active.
What makes it special is its position in the retinoid family; skin converts it to retinoic acid (the prescription gold standard) in just one step.
Because retinal only requires 1 conversion step to become retinoic acid, it's the strongest over-the-counter retinoid. It also works at lower concentrations than retinol, since retinal is about 10x more bioavailable.
Studies back up its efficacy in skin:
A foundational trial showed that applying 0.05-0.5% retinal for 1-3 months produced a dose-dependent and significant increase in epidermal thickness + cell turnover markers.
And a head-to-head comparison of 0.05% retinal against a 0.05% retinoid acid found both formulations were effective for the basis of wrinkle/skin roughness features, but retinoic acid caused more local irritation.
More recent controlled trials confirm it improves wrinkles, dermal density, and firmness over 12-24 weeks, with significant improvements in skin texture and firmness (particularly with the higher 0.1% concentration).
Retinal also has one trick the other retinoids do not: it directly fights against acne bacteria since a clinical study showed retinaldehyde-treated areas displayed a significant decrease in counts of viable P. acnes.
This makes it a great pick for people who want to treat aging and breakouts.
Typical cosmetic use sits in the 0.05-0.1% range with 0.05% being the gentle starting point and 0.1% giving stronger results.
Like all retinoids, retinal works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen. It can cause some irritation so ease into it slowly rather than going all in.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinal once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low.
Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
Learn more about RetinalSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water