What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Zinc Oxide 10.5%
Cosmetic ColorantTitanium Dioxide 3.7%
Cosmetic ColorantWater
Skin ConditioningC13-15 Alkane
SolventCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButyloctyl Salicylate
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate
EmulsifyingSqualane
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPolyglyceryl-10 Dioleate
EmulsifyingPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingCetyl Dimethicone
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePropanediol
SolventStearic Acid
CleansingStyrene/Acrylates Copolymer
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantAcetyl Zingerone
AntioxidantHydrated Silica
AbrasiveAlumina
AbrasiveEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingMannitol
HumectantVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningEnteromorpha Compressa Extract
Skin ProtectingTriethoxycaprylylsilane
Methylpropanediol
SolventEctoin
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialSilybum Marianum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningOcimum Sanctum Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPalmitic Acid
EmollientHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantCitric Acid
BufferingPhenylpropanol
MaskingMagnesium Oxide
AbsorbentCI 77499
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantZinc Oxide 10.5%, Titanium Dioxide 3.7%, Water, C13-15 Alkane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Squalane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Cetyl Dimethicone, Glycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Propanediol, Stearic Acid, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Acetyl Zingerone, Hydrated Silica, Alumina, Ethylhexylglycerin, Allantoin, Phosphatidylcholine, Mannitol, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Enteromorpha Compressa Extract, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Methylpropanediol, Ectoin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum Fruit Extract, Ocimum Sanctum Leaf Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Palmitic Acid, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Panthenol, Tocopherol, Citric Acid, Phenylpropanol, Magnesium Oxide, CI 77499, CI 77491, CI 77492
Homosalate 5%
Skin ConditioningEthylhexyl Salicylate 5%
UV AbsorberZinc Oxide 9.3%
Cosmetic ColorantWater
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientPolyhydroxystearic Acid
EmulsifyingDimethicone
EmollientCoconut Alkanes
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingLecithin
EmollientAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningIsohexadecane
EmollientIsododecane
EmollientMagnesium Sulfate
Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningTriethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone
Skin ConditioningPolysilicone-11
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientDimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantSodium Citrate
BufferingTocopherol
AntioxidantCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSqualane
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingPhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingMannitol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantMethylpropanediol
SolventCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEctoin
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
EmollientHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPhenylpropanol
MaskingVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningSilica
AbrasiveDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Zingerone
AntioxidantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeOctyldodecanol
EmollientSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77492
Cosmetic ColorantHomosalate 5%, Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5%, Zinc Oxide 9.3%, Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Dimethicone, Coconut Alkanes, Stearic Acid, Lecithin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Isohexadecane, Isododecane, Magnesium Sulfate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Dipropylene Glycol, Sodium Citrate, Tocopherol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Phenoxyethanol, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Polysorbate 60, Sorbitan Isostearate, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Phosphatidylcholine, Mannitol, Glycerin, Methylpropanediol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ectoin, Palmitic Acid, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Panthenol, Phenylpropanol, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract, Silica, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Acetyl Zingerone, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Octyldodecanol, Sorbitan Oleate, CI 77491, CI 77492
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Acetyl Zingerone is an antioxidant from ginger. It is able to fight many types of free-radical damage.
Acetyl Zingerone is stable in sun and is able to disrupt UV damaging processes on the skin.
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (tea extract) is one of the most well-researched plant extracts in skincare with an impressive resume.
Black tea, green tea, and oolong tea are all harvested from the Camellia Sinensis plant.
Studies show green tea extract and its catechins (like epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG)) help your skin cells product energy more efficiently and reducing the number of free-radicals that can damage your skin from the inside.
In lab-grown skin models, this translated to younger, healthier, and stronger skin.
There's also good sun protection data; researchers saw less DNA damage and redness on human skin when green tea was applied before UVB exposure. And the more they applied, the better the protection.
Needless to say, this ingredient shouldn't replace your sunscreen. But it is a great supportive ingredient that you can already find in many sunscreens and antioxidant serums.
A 2009 study found a 2% green tea lotion was effective for mild-to-moderate acne thanks to its anti-inflammatory and mild antimicrobial activity.
The quality of the extract matters a lot here:
Good extracts contain 50-90% catechins while lower quality ones are mostly there for marketing. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the quality or source of their ingredients.
Human Repeated Insult Patch Testing showed no irritation or sensitization at use concentrations (0.86% in leave-on products and up to 30% as leaf water).
Learn more about Camellia Sinensis Leaf ExtractThis ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCi 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77491CI 77492 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a yellow hue to products.
Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.
Synthetically created CI 77492 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.
Learn more about CI 77492Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/CaprateEctoin is a compound found naturally in some species of bacteria. It can be synthetically created for skincare use.
This ingredient is an osmolyte; Osmolytes help organisms survive osmotic shock (it protects them from extreme conditions). It does this by influencing the properties of biological fluids within cells.
When applied to the skin, ectoin helps bind water molecules to protect our skin. The water forms a sort of armor for the parts of our skin cells, enzymes, proteins, and more.
Besides this, ectoin has many uses in skincare:
A study from 2004 found ectoin to counteract the damage from UV-A exposure at different cell levels. It has also been shown to protect skin against both UV-A, UV-B rays, infrared light, and visible light.
Studies show ectoin to have dual-action pollution protection: first, it protects our skin from further pollution damage. Second, it helps repair damage from pollution.
In fact, ectoin has been shown to help with:
Fun fact: In the EU, ectoin is used in inhalation medication as an anti-pollution ingredient.
Ectoin is a highly stable ingredient. It has a wide pH range of 1-9. Light, oxygen, and temperature do not affect this ingredient.
The chemical name for this ingredient is Tetrahydromethylpyrimidine Carboxylic Acid.
Learn more about EctoinEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinThis extract comes from a tiny freshwater green microalga that can be found all over the world. It's special because it can produce massive amounts of Astaxanthin, a bright reddish-orange carotenoid pigment that is considered one of nature's most powerful antioxidants.
The algae starts pumping out Astaxanthin as a defense mechanism whenever it gets stressed out by things like intense sunlight or lack of nutrients.
This extract comes as a red-tinted, oily liquid and is packed with carotenoids, proteins, lipids, and minerals.
Astaxanthin is an antioxidant that helps neutralize free radicals and reactive oxygen species (ROS) that cause oxidative damage to your skin. It is also lipophilic, meaning it loves fats. This lets it concentrate in the outer layers of your skin where UV damage tends to hit first.
Research suggests it outperforms other well-known antioxidants like Vitamin C, Vitamin E, and Beta-Carotene in terms of scavenging ability. It can also help inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (the enzymes that break down collagen) and can stimulate growth factor secretion to support collagen production in dermal fibroblasts.
Clinical studies have shown that combining oral supplementation (6 mg/day) with topical application of astaxanthin from H. pluvialis led to improvements in wrinkles, age spots, elasticity, skin texture, and moisture content.
This ingredient is generally considered safe and well-tolerated in both topical and oral applications. In cosmetics, you'll see typical concentrations range from 0.1-2%. Allergic reactions are rare and be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
It's worth noting that about 95% of Astaxanthin on the market is made synthetically from petrochemicals.
Learn more about Haematococcus Pluvialis ExtractMannitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a humectant and moisturizes the skin. In vitro (not tested on a living organism), mannitol displays antioxidant properties.
When found in aqueous solutions, mannitol tends to become acidic. This is because it loses a hydrogen ion. This is why mannitol can often be found with pH adjusting ingredients, such as sodium bicarbonate.
Fun fact: Mannitol can be found in foods as a sweetener. It can be naturally found in mushrooms, algae, fruits, and veggies.
Learn more about MannitolMethylpropanediol is a synthetic solvent and humectant.
As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients, helping to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. This ingredient has also been shown to have antimicrobial properties which makes it a preservative booster.
Methylpropanediol is able to add a bit of moisture to the skin. It also helps other ingredients be better absorbed into the skin, such as salicylic acid.
Learn more about MethylpropanediolPalmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.
In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.
Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.
The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.
The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.
In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.
It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.
Learn more about Palmitic AcidPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Phenylpropanol is a fragrance.
Phosphatidylcholine (PC) is a type of phospholipid, a class of molecule that makes up our own cell membranes.
It has a glycerol backbone, two fatty acid tails (mostly linoleic, palmitic, and oleic), and a phosphate-choline head group.
In skincare, PC pulls double duty:
The linoleic acid it carries gets incorporated into skin ceramides and helps reinforce the lipid matrix.
Interestingly, it can help top of the omega-6 fatty acid that's often low in acne-prone and atopic skin. There's a sizeable body of literature that supports its use in dry, barrier-impaired, and breakout-prone skin.
There are two kinds of PC you'll see on ingredient lists.
Use levels range from <1% as a liposomal carrier and between 20-40% in lamellar matrix sytems.
Learn more about PhosphatidylcholinePolyhydroxystearic Acid is a vegetable-derived soft wax made from castor oil. It's an emulsion stabilizer, thickener, and film former.
You'll likely see it in sunscreens because it helps disperse pigments and UV-reflecting minerals like titanium dioxide and zinc oxide evenly.
Depending on the concentration, it can drastically change the texture of a product from pasty solid (like lipstick) to sprayable liquid.
The CIR Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has concluded this ingredient to be safe in cosmetics. The highest reported use concentration is 14.2% in lipsticks.
Learn more about Polyhydroxystearic AcidPotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSqualane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.
This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.
Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.
Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).
Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.
This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.
Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.
Read more about squalene with an "e".
Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.
The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.
Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.
A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.
The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.
Learn more about SqualaneStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.
THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).
Because it’s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skin’s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.
Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when it’s stressed from pollution or sun.
Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? You’ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.
A note on THD: It’s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).
While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.
THD is pretty stable, but it’s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113°F / 45°C) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!
Read more about other types of Vitamin C:
Learn more about Tetrahexyldecyl AscorbateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolVanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract comes from the vanilla orchid native to central America. It is a skin-soothing ingredient.
This ingredient is skin-soothing and contains polyphenols that give it antioxidant properties.
This ingredient is not known to sensitize or irritate skin (unlike Vanilla Tahitensis). Vanilla tahitensis has shown to irritate skin in low amounts.
Learn more about Vanilla Planifolia Fruit ExtractWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterZinc Oxide is a mineral broad-spectrum UV filter; it is the broadest UVA and UVB reflector approved by the FDA. It also has skin protectant and skin soothing properties.
Zinc oxide is one of the most effective broad-spectrum UV filters. It protects against UVB, UVAII, and UVAI. In comparison to its counterpart titanium dioxide, zinc oxide provides uniform and extended UVA protection.
Another great benefit? This ingredient is highly photostable so it won't degrade easily under sunlight.
A common myth is that mineral UV filters are widely believed to primarily reflect UV light.
However, modern research shows titanium dioxide absorbs UV radiation like chemical filters (~95% absorption & 5% reflection).
Zinc oxide has great skin soothing properties so you'll likely find this in sunscreens formulated for sensitive skin or babies/children. It is unlikely to cause "eye sting" like other sunscreen ingredients.
Regulatory agencies consider zinc oxide to be non-toxic and safe. It has also been shown to not penetrate the skin.
Unfortunately, this ingredient does leave a visible white cast. This is why mineral sunscreens are often less cosmetically elegant than chemical or hybrid ones.
In cosmetics, zinc oxide can be found in both non-nano and nano-sized forms. The nano version is used to reduce white cast and improve the texture of sunscreen formulas.
There are ongoing concerns surrounding nano-zinc oxide's impact on marine ecosystems and whether it can be absorbed into skin.
Regarding marine ecosystems and coral reefs, there is no conclusive evidence that any form of zinc oxide (or any other sunscreen ingredients) will cause harm. The science is still developing but many consumers are keeping a close eye on this issue.
Please note, many destinations have reef-safety sunscreen rules. For instance, the U.S. Virgin Islands advises all visitors to use non-nano mineral sunscreens.
There has also been some stir about whether micronized or nano zinc oxide has potential photoxicity and absorption through the skin/lungs.
An in-vitro (done in a test tube or petri dish) study demonstrated micronized zinc oxide to have potential phototoxicity. There's no need to fret; the EU Commission's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has stated, "The relevance of these findings needs to be clarified by appropriate investigations in vivo." Or in other words, further studies done on living organisms are needed to prove this.
Current research shows zinc oxide nanoparticles do not penetrate intact or sunburned skin. They either remain on the surface or in the outermost layer of dead skin (stratum corneum).
Zinc oxide is one of only two classified mineral UV filters with titanium dioxide being the other one.
Fun fact: Zinc has been used throughout history as an ingredient in paint and medicine. An Indian text from 500BC is believed to list zinc oxide as a salve for open wound. The Ancient Greek physician Dioscorides has also mentioned the use of zinc as an ointment in 1AD.
Learn more about Zinc Oxide