What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningMyristic Acid
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycol Distearate
EmollientSodium Benzoate
MaskingCocamidopropyl Betaine
CleansingLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningPyrus Communis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract
AntimicrobialEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDiospyros Kaki Leaf Extract
Skin ProtectingVitis Vinifera Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningMalus Domestica Fruit Extract
AntioxidantFragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningCoffea Arabica Seed Extract
MaskingCarthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningPolygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
AntioxidantCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCastanea Crenata Shell Extract
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Sodium Chloride
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningLactococcus Ferment
Skin ConditioningSalicylic Acid
MaskingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Salicylic Acid
ExfoliatingXylitylglucoside
HumectantAnhydroxylitol
HumectantXylitol
HumectantCollagen
MoisturisingPanicum Miliaceum Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientGlycine
BufferingPropolis Extract
Skin ConditioningSerine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantBiosaccharide Gum-4
Skin ConditioningSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentOriganum Vulgare Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningChamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningAspartic Acid
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingTannic Acid
AstringentLactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningCinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
MaskingScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingThreonine
Proline
Skin ConditioningValine
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningHistidine
HumectantMethionine
Skin ConditioningCysteine
AntioxidantCollagen Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Palmitic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Glycol Distearate, Sodium Benzoate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Lactobacillus Ferment, Pyrus Communis Fruit Extract, Hedera Helix Leaf/Stem Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Diospyros Kaki Leaf Extract, Vitis Vinifera Fruit Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Extract, Fragaria Chiloensis Fruit Extract, Coffea Arabica Seed Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Flower Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Castanea Crenata Shell Extract, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Chloride, 1,2-Hexanediol, Lactococcus Ferment, Salicylic Acid, Gluconolactone, Capryloyl Salicylic Acid, Xylitylglucoside, Anhydroxylitol, Xylitol, Collagen, Panicum Miliaceum Seed Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Glycine, Propolis Extract, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Citric Acid, Tannic Acid, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Proline, Valine, Potassium Sorbate, Isoleucine, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Collagen Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningMyristic Acid
CleansingGlycerin
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingPropylene Glycol
HumectantLauric Acid
CleansingGlycol Distearate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate Se
EmulsifyingCoco-Glucoside
CleansingButylene Glycol
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingCollagen
MoisturisingSoluble Collagen
HumectantCollagen Amino Acids
MoisturisingHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientCollagen Extract
Skin ConditioningOriganum Vulgare Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningChamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSalix Alba Bark Extract
AstringentLactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract
Skin ConditioningPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningCinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract
MaskingScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentPanicum Miliaceum Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingCitrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil
MaskingPelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil
MaskingSalvia Sclarea Oil
MaskingCitrus Limon Peel Oil
MaskingJuniperus Virginiana Oil
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantBiosaccharide Gum-4
Skin ConditioningAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningAsiaticoside
AntioxidantMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantGlycine
BufferingSerine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantAspartic Acid
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingValine
MaskingThreonine
Proline
Skin ConditioningIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningHistidine
HumectantMethionine
Skin ConditioningCysteine
AntioxidantTannic Acid
AstringentCitric Acid
BufferingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingSucrose Stearate
EmollientDisodium EDTA
Lactose
HumectantCellulose
AbsorbentAscorbyl Palmitate
AntioxidantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingJojoba Esters
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeCI 77289
Cosmetic ColorantLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingWater, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Potassium Hydroxide, Propylene Glycol, Lauric Acid, Glycol Distearate, Glyceryl Stearate Se, Coco-Glucoside, Butylene Glycol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Centella Asiatica Extract, Collagen, Soluble Collagen, Collagen Amino Acids, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Collagen Extract, Origanum Vulgare Leaf Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Panicum Miliaceum Seed Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Oil, Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Juniperus Virginiana Oil, Panthenol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Asiatic Acid, Asiaticoside, Madecassic Acid, Madecassoside, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Valine, Threonine, Proline, Isoleucine, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Tannic Acid, Citric Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hydrogenated Phosphatidylcholine, Sucrose Stearate, Disodium EDTA, Lactose, Cellulose, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Jojoba Esters, 1,2-Hexanediol, Potassium Sorbate, CI 77289, Linalool, Limonene, Citronellol, Geraniol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineAspartic Acid is an amino acid that our bodies produce naturally. It is an antioxidant.
Our body uses Aspartic Acid to help build collagen and elastin. It also plays a role in hydrating skin.
This is a fermented gum derived from sorbitol, a sugar alcohol.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient's high molecular weight makes it an effective emollient.
Emollients help keep the skin hydrated by preventing water from evaporating.
Learn more about Biosaccharide Gum-4Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolThis ingredient comes from the leaves of the Japanese cypress tree that is also called Hinoki. The leaves are rich in flavonoids with quercitrin being one of its key actives.
A 2023 study tested a 70% ethanol extract on UVA-stressed, collagen-producing skin cells. Across multiple antioxidant tests, this extract protected skin from free radicals at meaningful rates.
And the coolest part? At 1000 µg/mL, it blocked two enzymes (collagenase and elastase) almost as well as vitamin C did at the same dose. Collagenase and elastase are the enzymes that break down your skin's collagen and elastin over time.
The same study found this ingredient lowered skin-breakdown enzymes and inflammation signals while bumping up collagen production in UV-stressed cells.
A 2024 follow-up tested a fermented version (fermented with mushroom) and it calmed down several key inflammation markers in irritated immune cells. So besides anti-aging, this ingredient can also help soothe skin.
Most of the data right now is still at the cell-culture stage rather than from human clinical trials. However, there's no harm in adding this ingredient to your routine.
Just be sure to patch test if you have a history of sensitivity toward botanical extracts.
Learn more about Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf ExtractThis ingredient comes from the cinnamon tree native to southern China.
Though cinnamon has a wonderful taste, it can cause skin irritation due to its rich coumarins, cinnamaldehyde, and styrene content.
Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidCollagen is the most abundant type of structural protein found in your body. It is an effective skin moisturizer.
There is no conclusive proof that collagen is used by skin when applied topically. However, it is a great humectant that hydrates skin. Hydrated skin is associated with increased elasticity and a decrease in the appearance of wrinkles. It is also essential for maintaining a healthy skin barrier.
Biologically, collagen is responsible for keeping skin firm and youthful. Collagen is comprised mostly of glycine, proline, and hydroxypoline. These are amino acids.
Collagen will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.
Learn more about hydrolyzed collagen here.
Learn more about CollagenCollagen extract is derived from parts of animals. It has skin conditioning properties and is mostly comprised of glycine, proline, and hydroxypoline. These are amino acids.
While our skin does have collagen, this ingredient is not used by the skin for anti-aging. Applying collagen topically has not been linked to helping with collagen loss in skin. All the benefits of collagen are related to hydration.
This ingredient will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.
Learn more about Collagen ExtractCysteine is an amino acid found in our bodies. It becomes an antioxidant when converted into gluthatione.
Once it becomes gluthatione, it prevents oxidative damage to parts of our cell. Gluthatione has also been shown to protect our skin from UV-B induced damage.
Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlutamic Acid is an amino acid that is found in all living organisms. Our bodies use this to help nerve cells in the brain communicate with other cells.
In cosmetics, glutamic acid is a famous humectant. It draws water from the air to your skin, keeping your skin hydrated (like hyaluronic acid).
An in-vitro study from 2024 found glutamic acid to play a role in inhibiting inflammation and thus a potential skin-soothing ingredient.
Other studies show it to be have potential wound healing, skin barrier repair, and hair growth properties.
Glutamic acid has poor solubility in water and other solvents.
Learn more about Glutamic AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate Se is a self-emulsifying (SE) form of glyceryl stearate. Self-emusifying means this ingredient automatically blends with water. It is an emulsifier, emollient, and cleansing agent.
As an emulsifier, Glyceryl Stearate Se prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It is also a surfactant, meaning it helps cleanse the skin. Surfactants help gather oil, dirt, and other pollutants so they may be rinsed away easily.
Emollients help your skin stay smooth and soft. It does so by creating a film on top of the skin that helps trap moisture in.
Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate SeGlycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Glycol Distearate serves as a pearlizing or opacifying agent in cosmetic products.
It's often included in cleansers and haircare products to give them a lustrous or shimmering appearance.
It is derived from stearic acid, a natural fatty acid commonly found in vegetable oils and animal fats.
Glycol Distearate isn't fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Glycol DistearateHistidine is a semi-essential amino acid used by our bodies to create protein. It has humectant and skin conditioning properties.
Our bodies use histidine to create filaggrin - filaggrin is a structural protein that the skin uses in maintaining skin barrier.
One study found histidine and carnosine to be a dynamic duo for your skin:
Oral histidine has also been found to help with filaggrin-deficit skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis.
Why is it considered a semi-essential amino acid? This is because adults are able to create it but children must get it from their diet.
Learn more about HistidineHydrolyzed collagen has a misleading name because it is actually a mixture of various proteins/peptides. This ingredient has skin hydrating properties.
Collagen is the most abundant type of structural protein found in your body. In your skin, it is responsible for keeping it firm and youthful.
Hydrolyzed Collagen is created by breaking up proteins into smaller peptide bonds. These peptides act as humectants and emollients.
Humectants are great at holding onto water, keeping skin hydrated. Emollients create a thin barrier on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
There is ongoing debate about whether hydrolyzed collagen works because it increases skin hydration. Skin hydration is also linked to elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles.
Collagen or peptide ingredients can be used in the morning or night. They will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient is a great hair conditioner as well.
This ingredient can be extracted from different sources, including:
Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources. Vegan collagen would go by a different INCI name, such as hydrolyzed soy protein.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed CollagenIsoleucine is an amino acid that helps reinforce our skin barrier. This amino acid plays a role in creating protein for the body.
Fun fact: Isoleucine is found in meat, fish, dairy, legumes, and nuts.
This ingredient is created by fermenting soybean extract with the bacteria, lactobacillus.
Some studies have shown it to have antioxidant properties. One study found this ingredient to have stronger properties than non-fermented soybean extract.
Another study found in increase of isoflavones, amino acids, and peptides in fermented soy milk.
Learn more about Lactobacillus/Soybean Ferment ExtractWe don't have a description for Leucine yet.
Lysine is an essential amino acid (your body cannot make it on its own). It has skin conditioning properties and one of the key players in collagen synthesis.
When your body creates collagen, lysine is basically the glue that holds everything together. It helps collagen fibers lock into each other and stay strong, with vitamin C being its trusty sidekick. Without enough lysine, this glue gets flimsy and less firm, resulting in less bouncy skin.
In skincare, lysine is mostly there to help keep your skin moisturized. It carries water through your skin's layers so everything stays plump.
So will putting lysine on your face create bouncier skin?
It's hard to say; most of the exciting collagen research on lysine comes from oral supplements or lab studies on mice. Further research is needed to truly understand what role topical lysine plays in skincare and your skin.
However, there's no harm in adding lysine to your routine as a supportive and hydrating ingredient.
Learn more about LysineMethionine is an essential amino acid. It is a conditioning agent and commonly found in both skin and hair products.
This amino acid is a precursor to glutathione, a powerful antioxidant.
Fun fact: Methionine can be found in meat, fish, and dairy. It cannot be naturally produce and requires dietary intake.
Learn more about MethionineMyristic Acid is a saturated fatty acid. It is naturally found in milk fat. Other sources include palm oil, coconut oil, and butter fat.
Myristic Acid is an emulsifer and cleanser. As an emulsifer, it stabilizes a product by preventing ingredients from separating. Myristic Acid helps clean your skin by acting as a surfactant. It tends to gather oil and dirt on your skin to be easily rinsed away.
One study from 2021 found Myristic Acid to have anti-inflammatory properties.
Learn more about Myristic AcidOregano leaf is a culinary and medicinal herb with skin conditioning properties.
We don't have a description for Panicum Miliaceum Seed Extract yet.
Phenylalanine is an amino acid. It is a skin soothing and hydrating ingredient. Amino acids play a crucial role in wound healing and skin hydration.
This ingredient is also used to help even out skin tone due to its ability to disrupt the melanin production process.
Two structures of phenylalanine exist: L-phenylalanine and D-phenylalanine. L-phenylalanine is essential, this means our bodies cannot produce it naturally and we must get it from foods. Our bodies convert D-phenylalanine to neurotransmitters, and D-phenylalanine is found in our bodies naturally.
Some foods that contain L-phenylalanine include eggs, soybeans, beef, milk.
Learn more about PhenylalanineThis extract comes from Purslane, a succulent. It has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and hydrating properties.
Purslane is very nutritious. It contains omega-3 fatty acids, NMFs, many vitamins, minerals, and antioxidants. The vitamins found in purslane include: Vitamin C, Vitamin A, and Vitamin E.
Fun fact: Purslane is a succulent with an extensive habitat. It is used in traditional Korean medicine to treat irritated skin.
Nowadays, purslane is becoming a superfood due to its highly nutritious content.
Learn more about Portulaca Oleracea ExtractPotassium hydroxide is commonly known as caustic potash. It is used to fix the pH of a product or as a cleaning agent in soap. In cleansers, it is used for the saponification of oils.
Sapnification is the process of creating fatty acid metal salts from triglycerides and a strong base. During this process, Potassium Hydroxide is used up and is not present in the final product.
Using high concentrations of Potassium Hydroxide have shown to irritate the skin.
Learn more about Potassium HydroxidePotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbateProline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.
It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.
Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.
Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.
Learn more about ProlineSalix Alba Bark Extract comes from the bark of the white willow tree. The official CosIng listing states this ingredient to have astringent, skin conditioning, soothing, and tonic properties.
Its star compound is salicin, a natural glucoside that is chemically related to salicylic acid. That's why you'll often see it marketed as a "natural BHA alternative" but that's a bit of a stretch.
Your skin can't convert salicin to salicylic acid because it needs specific enzymes that aren't present on the skin's surface. It won't behave like true salicylic acid, especially at the concentrations used in cosmetics.
However, this ingredient has its own perks. It contains flavonoids, polyphenols, and tannins that give it proven antioxidant and soothing properties.
An 8-week clinical study found a cream with 2% of this extract improved skin microcirculation, elasticity, and dark circles. This is most likely due to its role in increasing hyaluronic acid synthesis in fibroblasts and improved vascular integrity.
Another study found a topical serum with 0.5% salicin showed improvements in visible signs of aging, hyperpigmentation, and texture.
Just be careful if you have a known aspirin/salicylate allergy and be sure to consult with a medical professional about using this ingredient if you do.
Fun fact: Willow Bark extract has been used for thousands of years and ancient civilizations used white willow to help treat pain and fevers.
Learn more about Salix Alba Bark ExtractScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract comes from the Baikal skullcap or Chinese skullcap plant. This plant is native to Northeast Asia and can be found in China, Mongolia, Korea, and Siberia.
In cosmetics, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. This is due to the flavonoid composition of Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract.
In Chinese traditional folk medicine, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is used to help treat lung issues and hypertension.
Learn more about Scutellaria Baicalensis Root ExtractSerine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.
Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.
Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.
Learn more about SerineStearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.
In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:
Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Stearic AcidTannic Acid is a type of polyphenol. Its chemical structure makes it a weak acid. Woods such as oak, walnut, and mahogany naturally contain tannic acid.
Polyphenols are potent antioxidants and may protect our skin against the signs of aging.
Studies show tannic acid may have help reduce photoaging. However, further studies are needed.
Learn more about Tannic AcidThreonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.
Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.
Tyrosine is one of the amino acids used to create protein. It plays a role in melanin production.
A study from 2012 found tyrosine to show promising results in restoring skin volume.
Valine is an essential amino acid. It is used by our bodies for tissue repair and muscle growth.
An essential amino acid is one in which our bodies cannot naturally produce so we must get them through diet. Foods such as eggs, dairy, red meat, and fish contain valine.
This ingredient can either be derived from an animal product or be synthetically created.
Learn more about ValineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water