What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientCeresin
Emulsion StabilisingSynthetic Wax
AbrasiveStearyl Dimethicone
EmollientC13-15 Alkane
SolventGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingHdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer
Niacinamide
SmoothingDimethicone
EmollientCetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone
EmulsifyingPolymethyl Methacrylate
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientStearyl Heptanoate
EmollientSodium Chloride
MaskingJojoba Esters
EmollientStearyl Caprylate
EmollientHelianthus Annuus Seed Wax
Skin ConditioningMenthyl PCA
HumectantDipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate
Skin ConditioningBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientEthylene/Propylene Copolymer
AbrasiveTrehalose
HumectantBetaine
HumectantTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPolyglycerin-3
HumectantAcacia Decurrens Flower Wax
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningEctoin
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientHydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientSaccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Methylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingPullulan
Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningDextrin
AbsorbentPropanediol
SolventPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer
HumectantPolyglyceryl-10 Laurate
Skin ConditioningPorphyridium Cruentum Extract
Skin ConditioningPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingHydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans
HumectantFructan
Skin ConditioningDecyl Glucoside
CleansingCynara Scolymus Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantHexyldecanol
EmollientHydrolyzed Sponge
Skin ConditioningPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningBenzyl Glycol
SolventGlucose
HumectantCitric Acid
BufferingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientSilica
AbrasivePalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPrunella Vulgaris Extract
AntioxidantMagnolia Officinalis Bark Extract
AntimicrobialXanthine
Skin ConditioningAnemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSodium Acetylated Hyaluronate
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantCalcium Silicate
AbsorbentTocopherol
AntioxidantHyaluronic Acid
HumectantHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningSodium Silicate
BufferingNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingWater, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Butylene Glycol, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Ceresin, Synthetic Wax, Stearyl Dimethicone, C13-15 Alkane, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hdi/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer, Niacinamide, Dimethicone, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone, Polymethyl Methacrylate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Olivate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Stearyl Heptanoate, Sodium Chloride, Jojoba Esters, Stearyl Caprylate, Helianthus Annuus Seed Wax, Menthyl PCA, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ethylene/Propylene Copolymer, Trehalose, Betaine, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Polyglycerin-3, Acacia Decurrens Flower Wax, Caffeine, Ectoin, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Hydrolyzed Elastin, Saccharomyces/Rice Ferment Filtrate, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Pullulan, Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract, Dextrin, Propanediol, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Hyaluronate Crosspolymer, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Glycosaminoglycans, Fructan, Decyl Glucoside, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hexyldecanol, Hydrolyzed Sponge, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ceramide NP, Benzyl Glycol, Glucose, Citric Acid, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Caprylyl Glycol, Silica, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Prunella Vulgaris Extract, Magnolia Officinalis Bark Extract, Xanthine, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Tripeptide-1, Sodium Acetylated Hyaluronate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Copper Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Calcium Silicate, Tocopherol, Hyaluronic Acid, Hexapeptide-9, Sodium Silicate, Nonapeptide-1, Parfum
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAnthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
MaskingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantArginine
MaskingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingDimethicone
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantSodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingButylene Glycol
HumectantParfum
MaskingHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeDisodium EDTA
Panthenol
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningZanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningUsnea Barbata Extract
Pulsatilla Koreana Extract
Skin ConditioningDipropylene Glycol
HumectantAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientGlycereth-20
HumectantLavandula Angustifolia Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Elastin
EmollientPEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol
CleansingCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Propylene Glycol, Arginine, Carbomer, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Polysorbate 60, Beeswax, PEG-100 Stearate, Sodium Polyacrylate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Parfum, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Panthenol, Ceramide NP, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Usnea Barbata Extract, Pulsatilla Koreana Extract, Dipropylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Caprylyl Glycol, Glycereth-20, Lavandula Angustifolia Extract, Hydrolyzed Elastin, PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Centella Asiatica Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.
Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.
Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.
In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeThis small molecule peptide has similar benefits to Argireline, the "botox" peptide.
According to the manufacturer, this peptide mimics snake venom to freeze muscles. This prevents muscle movement and contractions to prohibit the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.
While this seems promising, research is lacking in proving this ingredient to be as effective as botox.
Learn more about Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide DiacetateEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinHydrolyzed collagen has a misleading name because it is actually a mixture of various proteins/peptides. This ingredient has skin hydrating properties.
Collagen is the most abundant type of structural protein found in your body. In your skin, it is responsible for keeping it firm and youthful.
Hydrolyzed Collagen is created by breaking up proteins into smaller peptide bonds. These peptides act as humectants and emollients.
Humectants are great at holding onto water, keeping skin hydrated. Emollients create a thin barrier on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
There is ongoing debate about whether hydrolyzed collagen works because it increases skin hydration. Skin hydration is also linked to elasticity and the appearance of wrinkles.
Collagen or peptide ingredients can be used in the morning or night. They will not increase sun sensitivity, but you should always wear sunscreen during the day.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient is a great hair conditioner as well.
This ingredient can be extracted from different sources, including:
Vegan collagen is derived from yeast, bacteria, or plant sources. Vegan collagen would go by a different INCI name, such as hydrolyzed soy protein.
The results are varied.
A study from 2021 found hydrolyzed collagen increased elasticity and improved wrinkles in 1,125 participants between age 20 and 70. Another study found increased skin thickness in participants between the ages of 45 to 59.
However, It is difficult to prove that oral collagen will end up working on your skin. Many of the studies using hydrolyzed collagen also add several vitamins and nutrients into the test mixture as well.
Further studies are needed at this time.
Learn more about Hydrolyzed CollagenWe don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Elastin yet.
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5 is a synthetic signal lipopeptide. This just means it is a three amino acid chain bolted onto a palmitic acid tail so it can slip through the skin's lipid barrier.
This peptide has a "build more, lose less" approach.
It's designed to mimic the collagen-stimulating activity in your skin by copying a snippet of one of your skin's own matrix proteins. This nudges fibroblasts into making more collagen while inhibiting the enzyme that breaks down skin protein.
The manufacturer's in vivo study of 45 volunteers found 1% and 2.5% reduced the appearance of wrinkles by 7% and 12% respectively, after using it twice daily for 84 days.
This is in the expected range for peptides; they're slow and cumulative actives and not overnight fixers.
Typical use levels range from 1-3% and this ingredient gets along with pretty much everything.
On the fungal acne front:
Although palmitic acid sits in the chain length that Malassezia can feed on, this ingredient has it locked in an amine bond. This makes it hard for Malassezia to access as a source of food, and therefore fungal acne safe.
Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water