The History of Whoo Hwanyu Imperial Youth Emulsion

The History of Whoo Hwanyu Imperial Youth Emulsion

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Overview

What it is

Emulsion with 121 ingredients that contains AHA, ceramides and niacinamide

Cool Features

It is reef safe

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture

Free From

It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, oils, parabens or sulfates

Fun facts

The History of Whoo is from South Korea. This product is used in 3 routines created by our community.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

What's inside

Ingredients List

51
36
34

Water

Skin Conditioning

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Hydrogenated Polydecene

Emollient

Betaine

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dipropylene Glycol

Humectant

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Octyldodecyl Myristate

Emollient

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Glyceryl Stearate

Emollient
1 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Isocetyl Myristate

Emollient

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate

Emollient

Panthenol

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Cetearyl Alcohol

Emollient
2 / 1 Fatty Alcohol IconCoconut Derived IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Serine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

PEG-100 Stearate

0 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Silicon Icon

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

Stabilising
Silicon Icon

Bacillus Ferment

Skin Conditioning
Good for Barrier Repair IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking
Coconut Derived IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Arachidyl Alcohol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

Squalane

Emollient
1 / 0 Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Behenyl Alcohol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Arginine

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Arachidyl Glucoside

Emulsifying

Citric Acid

Buffering
AHA IconHelps brighten skin IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide

Emulsion Stabilising
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Propylene Glycol

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Polygonatum Odoratum Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Ceramide NP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Andrographis Paniculata Extract

Astringent

Cholesterol

Emollient
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Panax Ginseng Root Extract

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Panax Ginseng Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Palmitic Acid

Emollient
2 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Ganoderma Lucidum Extract

Skin Protecting
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Stearic Acid

Cleansing
2-3 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Cordyceps Sinensis Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Angelica Dahurica Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Belamcanda Chinensis Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Houttuynia Cordata Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract

Masking

Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract

Skin Conditioning

Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract

Skin Conditioning

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

Astringent
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract

Skin Protecting

Tussilago Farfara Flower Extract

Astringent

Thymus Vulgaris Extract

Perfuming
Fragrance Icon

Juglans Regia Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning

Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Eucommia Ulmoides Bark Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Astringent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Prunella Vulgaris Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Barm Extract

Skin Conditioning

Andrographolide

Skin Conditioning

Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract

Skin Conditioning

Saussurea Lappa Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Bambusa Vulgaris Stem Extract

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract

Masking
May worsen Eczema Icon

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract

Masking
Fragrance Icon

Coptis Japonica Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cuscuta Chinensis Seed Extract

Dimocarpus Longan Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract

Astringent

Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract

Skin Conditioning

Laminaria Japonica Extract

Skin Protecting
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Angelica Gigas Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Powder

Skin Conditioning

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract

Skin Protecting

Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract

Skin Conditioning

Polygonum Aviculare Extract

Emollient

Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Prunus Persica Kernel Extract

Moisturising

Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Tricholoma Matsutake Extract

Skin Conditioning

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Zingiber Officinale Root Extract

Masking
Helps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Punica Granatum Extract

Astringent

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant Icon

Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Trifolium Pratense Leaf Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Tuber Aestivum Extract

Skin Protecting

Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract

Skin Conditioning

Tromethamine

Buffering

Trisodium EDTA

Dextrin

Absorbent

CI 77891

Cosmetic Colorant

Mica

Cosmetic Colorant

CI 77491

Cosmetic Colorant

Parfum

Masking
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Limonene

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Hexyl Cinnamal

Perfuming
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Benzyl Benzoate

Antimicrobial
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Geraniol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Citronellol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Hydroxycitronellal

Perfuming
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Water, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Betaine, Dipropylene Glycol, Niacinamide, Octyldodecyl Myristate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glyceryl Stearate, Isocetyl Myristate, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Panthenol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Serine, PEG-100 Stearate, Butylene Glycol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Carbomer, PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Bacillus Ferment, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Adenosine, Arachidyl Alcohol, Squalane, Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract, Behenyl Alcohol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Arginine, Arachidyl Glucoside, Citric Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide, Propylene Glycol, Polygonum Multiflorum Root Extract, Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract, Polygonatum Odoratum Root Extract, Ceramide NP, Andrographis Paniculata Extract, Cholesterol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Panax Ginseng Extract, Palmitic Acid, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Stearic Acid, Cordyceps Sinensis Extract, Xanthan Gum, Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract, Angelica Dahurica Root Extract, Belamcanda Chinensis Root Extract, Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract, Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract, Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract, Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract, Tussilago Farfara Flower Extract, Thymus Vulgaris Extract, Juglans Regia Seed Extract, Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract, Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract, Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract, Eucommia Ulmoides Bark Extract, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Prunella Vulgaris Leaf Extract, Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Barm Extract, Andrographolide, Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract, Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract, Saussurea Lappa Root Extract, Bambusa Vulgaris Stem Extract, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Extract, Cinnamomum Cassia Bark Extract, Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Cuscuta Chinensis Seed Extract, Dimocarpus Longan Fruit Extract, Eugenia Caryophyllus Flower Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract, Laminaria Japonica Extract, Angelica Gigas Root Extract, Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Powder, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract, Prunus Persica Kernel Extract, Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract, Tricholoma Matsutake Extract, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Punica Granatum Extract, Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract, Trifolium Pratense Leaf Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Tuber Aestivum Extract, Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract, Tromethamine, Trisodium EDTA, Dextrin, CI 77891, Mica, CI 77491, Parfum, Limonene, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Benzyl Benzoate, Geraniol, Citronellol, Hydroxycitronellal

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Polydecene is a synthetic emollient. It forms a non-occlusive film on the skin's surface to provide a silky feel without being greasy.

In vivo studies in volunteers with atopic and dry skin showed no irritation or intolerance. The volunteers also saw a positive effect in dryness, scaling, and roughness after 28 days of use.

Concentrations up to 100% in guinea pig tests found it to be non-sensitizing and completely safe for use in cosmetics.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Polydecene
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Betaine is a humectant. Like hyaluronic acid, it helps attract and retain moisture in the skin. It’s known for being gentle and for helping the skin maintain balanced hydration.

Betaine is mainly used to improve hydration and support calmer skin. It helps skin cells regulate water balance because it functions as an osmolyte.

Some studies suggest betaine may support making skin tone more even.

Fun fact: Betaine naturally exists in the skin and the body. In cosmetic products, it can be either plant-derived (most commonly from sugar beets) or synthetically produced for consistency and stability.

Betaine is also known as trimethylglycine.

Learn more about Betaine
Humectant, Masking, Solvent

Dipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.

This ingredient helps:

Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.

As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.

Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.

Learn more about Dipropylene Glycol
Smoothing

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Learn more about Niacinamide

We don't have a description for Octyldodecyl Myristate yet.

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse. 

It is a:

  • Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  • Emollient, helping to soften skin
  • Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  • Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives 
Emollient, Emulsifying

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Isocetyl Myristate yet.

Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is created from the diester of stearic acid and the condensation product of methylglucose and Polyglycerin-3.

As an emulsifier, it is used to bind ingredients together. Many ingredients, such as oils and water, separate naturally. Emulsifiers prevent them from separating to ensure even consistency in texture.

One of the manufacturer for this ingredient states it is vegetable-based. It is also claimed to be stable at both high and low temperatures.

This ingredient may not be safe for fungal acne. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Learn more about Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.

Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.

Skin Conditioning

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Learn more about Panthenol
Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

Learn more about Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Learn more about Dimethicone
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Serine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.

Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.

Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.

Learn more about Serine

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol

Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.

When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.

If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.

Learn more about Polymethylsilsesquioxane
Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Carbomer is a high-molecular weight polymer of acrylic acid. It is used to form gels and thicken formulas.

Due to its large molecular size, carbomer has minimal skin penetration and is considered an inert ingredient.

A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.

Learn more about Carbomer

PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer is a type of silicone.

Skin Conditioning

Bacillus Ferment is created by fermenting Bacillus bacteria with yeast extract and carbohydrates. It acts as a humectant and, depending on the strain, can also provide gentle enzymatic exfoliation.

Depending on the strain and formulation, it may also act as a peptide, probiotic, or prebiotic. Certain strains of Bacillus Ferment help support the skin’s microbiome, soothe inflammation, and promote barrier repair and hydration.

It’s typically used at 0.5-5% concentration, either for mild exfoliation or to improve overall skin health and texture.

Some studies show that Bacillus species can inhibit certain plant fungi (such as Fusarium verticillioides and Fusarium oxysporum) used in agricultural biocontrol. However, these are filamentous molds, not the yeast (Malassezia furfur) responsible for fungal acne.

At this time, there are no studies showing that Bacillus Ferment inhibits Malassezia or that it has been tested on human skin or in cosmetic formulations. Because of this lack of cosmetic and dermatological research, we list Bacillus Ferment as not safe for fungal acne as a precaution. However, it may not trigger breakouts for everyone.

Learn more about Bacillus Ferment
Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.

It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.

Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Skin Conditioning

Adenosine is in every living organism. It is one of four components in nucleic acids that helps store our DNA.

Adenosine has many benefits when used. These benefits include hydrating the skin, smoothing skin, and reducing wrinkles. Once applied, adenosine increases collagen production. It also helps with improving firmness and tissue repair.

Studies have found adenosine may also help with wound healing.

In skincare products, Adenosine is usually derived from yeast.

Learn more about Adenosine
Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising

Arachidyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol made from the the arachidic acid found in peanut oil.

Despite having "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethanol.

This ingredient is a multitasker:

Just be sure to patch this ingredient if you have a peanut allergy (though this ingredient is highly processed and the allergenic proteins are typically removed).

Learn more about Arachidyl Alcohol
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Squalane is the hydrogenated and shelf-stable form of squalene (a lipid that naturally occurs in human sebum).

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent that is able to integrate seamlessly into the skin's lipid barrier without clogging pores.

This is due to how structurally similar it is to what your skin already produces.

Though it is mostly an emollient that helps soften and hydrate skin, it also has some humectant and occlusive action. Humectants help the skin retain moisture while occlusives seal it in, making squalane a triple-threat moisturizer.

Research shows it has antioxidant capabilities that help protect against stressors like UV exposure, specifically UVA induced oxidative stress. This study also found that it supports collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.

No clinical study has reported significant adverse effects and irritation reactions are very rare from this ingredient (even at 100% concentration).

Overall, it's a fantastic ingredient for hydration and is suitable for all skin types.

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Though squalane is often called an oil, it’s technically not one. It is a hydrocarbon, meaning it is only made of carbon and hydrogen. True oils are triglycerides and made of fatty acids and glycerol.

The term “oil-free” isn’t regulated so companies can define it however they want. Some exclude all oils, while others just avoid mineral oil or comedogenic oils.

Squalane has a comedogenic rating of 1 from the original 1972 study that tested raw ingredients under occlusion on rabbit ears. This system is not standardized or peer-reviewed, and using the raw ingredients is very different from how diluted cosmetic formulations are used on human skin.

A comedogenic rating of 1 means it is "unlikely to clog pores" according to the original rating system.

The overall formula of a product matters more than the individual ingredients on whether or not it will cause clogged pores.

Learn more about Squalane

Theobroma Cacao Seed Extract comes from the Theobroma cacoa, or Cacao tree. Cacao trees are native to tropical landscapes.

Cacao seed extract contains antioxidants known as polyphenols.

Emollient, Emulsion Stabilising

Behenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).

Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.

Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.

In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.

Learn more about Behenyl Alcohol
Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate is an emollient ester.

As an emollient, it softens and hydrates your skin by locking moisture in. Its large, branched structure gives it a thick, cushiony feel without being greasy. This is why it shows up most often in lip balms, lipsticks, and other stick or balm formulas, where it adds gloss and helps hold waxes and pigments together.

The phytosterol portion is a nice extra. Phytosterols are plant-based lipids that are structurally similar to ones found naturally in skin, so they can help support the skin barrier.

Because this ingredient contains C16, C18, and C22 fatty chains, it may not be Malassezia/fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast potentially feeds on fatty acids in the C11-C24 range. If you're prone to flare-ups, you might want to patch-test or skip this one.

Learn more about Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate
Masking, Skin Conditioning

Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.

It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.

Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.

A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.

Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.

One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.

Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.

Learn more about Arginine
Emulsifying

This ingredient is a plant-based surfactant and emulsifier. It helps oil and water based ingredients mix evenly to improve formula stability without adding a "greasy" feel.

Buffering, Masking

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Learn more about Citric Acid
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.

It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.

This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.

Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.

A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).

Learn more about Hydrogenated Lecithin
Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning

Tremella Fuciformis Polysaccharide are the sugars from the snow mushroom.

Snow mushroom is rich in polysaccharides, giving it moisturizing benefits. As a humectant, snow mushroom helps draw moisture from the air to the skin. Polysaccharides are able to mimic our skin's natural carbohydrates to help the skin retain water.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Propylene Glycol is a synthetic, colorless, odorless liquid that has been a staple in cosmetics for decades. It is a skin conditioning agent, humectant, and solvent.

As a humectant, it draw water to the skin to reduce flaking and restore suppleness. It's also a solvent that helps dissolve other actives and keeps formulas stable across temperature changes.

The CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be nontoxic and clinical studies show no sensitization at cosmetic use concentrations.

True allergic reactions are quite rare: a 15-year retrospective study of 6,751 patients found only 0.31% had a positive reaction (and less than half were considered clinically relevant).

It seemed that when sensitization does occur, it's most commonly linked to topical medication (like corticosteroids) and not cosmetics. Allergic contact dermatitis also appears largely limited to individuals with underlying skin conditions.

Overall, propylene glycol is a well-studied ingredient that most people can tolerate without issue.

Learn more about Propylene Glycol

This plant derived ingredient has skin conditioning and antioxidant properties.

You may see his ingredient in hair and scalp products because some research suggests it may support hair growth. However, strong human clinical evidence is limited.

We don't have a description for Asparagus Cochinchinensis Root Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Polygonatum Odoratum Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

Ceramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.

Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.

This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.

A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.

Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.

Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.

Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.

Learn more about Ceramide NP
Astringent, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Andrographis Paniculata Extract yet.

Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Cholesterol is a lipid that is naturally found in human skin and is one of the three key components of your skin barrier. In skincare, it is an emollient and barrier-repairing ingredient.

It works by fitting directly into the lipid layers of skin to help restore structure and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

This is a great ingredient for dry, compromised, or aging skin; our skin starts to produce less cholesterol with age.

Research shows cholesterol works best in combination with ceramides and fatty acids, the other two major components in your skin barrier.

Cholesterol is also a well-establish penetration enhancer and can help other actives absorb more effectively.

Cosmetic-grade cholesterol is usually derived from lanolin but plant and synthetic options also exist. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about their source of cholesterol.

Learn more about Cholesterol
Emollient, Skin Protecting, Tonic

Ginseng root is a well-loved ingredient in Asian skincare for good reason. It hydrates the skin, soothes irritation, and helps even out skin tone.

In traditional East Asian medicine, ginseng has been used for centuries both as food and as a healing remedy, and modern research continues to confirm its skin benefits.

One of the standout features of ginseng is its ability to improve blood circulation and oxygen delivery to the skin, bringing a fresh supply of nutrients to support overall skin health. It also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties. This helps to protect your skin against damage from UV exposure, pollution, and daily stress.

Additionally, studies suggest that ginseng may help reduce hyperpigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in melanin production.

There are different types of ginseng used in skincare, and while they all share core benefits, their potency can vary.

Most products use fresh or white ginseng because it’s more affordable. However, red ginseng, produced by steaming the root, contains higher levels of ginsenosides, which are compounds with proven anti-aging effects. These ginsenosides help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve skin elasticity.

Note: All forms of ginseng are listed simply as “Panax ginseng” in ingredient lists. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about which type of ginseng is used in their ingredients.

For general antioxidant benefits, any ginseng extract will do, but for wrinkle care or firmer skin, red or fermented ginseng is often more effective.

In short, ginseng is a powerhouse ingredient that supports hydration, radiance, and resilience.

Learn more about Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Panax ginseng is also known as Asian ginseng. This ingredient is used in traditional Asian food and medicine.

Read more about its benefits here.

Emollient, Emulsifying

Palmitic Acid is a fatty acid naturally found in our skin and in many plant and animal sources.

In cosmetics, it is usually derived from palm oil. It serves many purposes in skincare, acting as a cleanser, emollient, and emulsifier.

Interestingly, topically applied Palmitic Acid can be elongated into longer chain fatty acids and ceramides. A 2019 study found low levels of Palmitic Acid lead to slower development of cells, suggesting it plays a role in keeping your skin's renewal process on track.

The CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review) panel determined it safe as used in cosmetics at concentrations up to 13%. It is non-irritating and non-sensitizing in clinical studies.

The culprit behind fungal acne, the Malassezia yeast, feeds on fatty acids with carbon chain lengths between C11-C24. Palmitic Acid, at C16, falls right into that sweet spot.

In vitro studies have shown that Palmitic Acid is one of the fatty acids that induce rapid Malassezia growth in lab settings.

It's worth noting that what feeds yeast in a lab doesn't necessarily feed it on your face since formulation and your skin's chemistry play a bigger role.

Learn more about Palmitic Acid
Skin Protecting

This is the extract of the Reishi mushroom.

The Reishi mushroom has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.

This is due to its content of terpenoids, polysaccharides, macronutrients, and phenolic acids.

Learn more about Ganoderma Lucidum Extract
Cleansing, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Stearic Acid is a fatty acid that is already found in your skin. It's one of the free fatty acids that works alongside ceramides and cholesterols to maintain your barrier.

In cosmetics, it is a multitasker:

Safety-wise, the CIR Expert Panel has concluded it to be safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing.

Free stearic acid is a C18 fatty acid that the Malassezia yeast can substrate, so this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Stearic Acid
Antioxidant, Emollient, Humectant

Cordyceps Sinensis Extract comes from a fungus that lives on caterpillars and insect larvae. It can also be made synthetically.

Cordyceps Sinensis Extract is an antioxidant and may help with reducing the signs of aging.

This fungus is mainly found in the mountainous regions of the Himalayas. It has been used in traditional Tibetan, Nepalese, and Chinese medicine to help with fatigue.

Learn more about Cordyceps Sinensis Extract
Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum

We don't have a description for Cornus Officinalis Fruit Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Angelica Dahurica Root Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Belamcanda Chinensis Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting, Tonic

This ingredient comes from the leaves of the evergreen tea, Eriobotrya japonica (loquat). It has skin conditioning and protecting properties.

The leaves of this tree are rich in antioxidants that help soothe and protect the skin from oxidative stress.

Some studies suggest this ingredient may inhibit pigment production in the skin to help even out skin tone.

Learn more about Eriobotrya Japonica Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning

Houttuynia Cordata Extract is more commonly known as Heart Leaf, Fish Mint, or Chameleon plant.

The components found in Heart Leaf give it antioxidant, hydrating, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.

Heart Leaf is rich in flavonoids such as quercetin, apigenin, and more. It also contains polysaccharides, the most common type of carbs in food.

Flavonoids have been shown to be effective antioxidants. They help neutralize free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are unstable molecules that may damage our skin cells and DNA. The flavonoids in Heart Leaf also help soothe the skin.

Polysaccharides are naturally found in our skin. They play a role in hydrating and repairing the top layer of skin. The polysaccharides in Heart Leaf help moisturize our skin.

Studies show decanoyl acetaldehyde, a component of Heart Leaf oil, is effective at killing bacteria.

The name 'Fish Mint' comes from the herb's natural fishy smell. Is is native to southeast Asia and used throughout the continent for traditional cooking and medicine.

Learn more about Houttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin Conditioning, Tonic

We don't have a description for Ophiopogon Japonicus Root Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Perilla Frutescens Leaf Extract yet.

Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract is an antioxidant.

We don't have a description for Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Schizonepeta Tenuifolia Extract yet.

Astringent, Humectant, Soothing

Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract comes from the Baikal skullcap or Chinese skullcap plant. This plant is native to Northeast Asia and can be found in China, Mongolia, Korea, and Siberia.

In cosmetics, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract provides antioxidant and anti-inflammatory benefits. This is due to the flavonoid composition of Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract.

In Chinese traditional folk medicine, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract is used to help treat lung issues and hypertension.

Learn more about Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract

We don't have a description for Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract yet.

Astringent, Emollient

We don't have a description for Tussilago Farfara Flower Extract yet.

Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient comes form the common thyme plant. It has skin conditioning and perfuming ingredients.

In-vitro studies show strong antioxidant activity due to the high phenolic content of thyme.

Studies also demonstrate it has antimicrobial activity against acne-related bacteria. A 2017 study found this extract exhibited anti-inflammatory effects.

However, this ingredient does have sensitization potential due to its terpene content. Terpenes are among the most common causes of contact dermatitis.

This is kind of a double-edged sword situation where the same compounds that give it antimicrobial power can also irritate reactive skin.

Learn more about Thymus Vulgaris Extract
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Juglans Regia Seed Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Cyperus Rotundus Root Extract yet.

This ingredient comes from the seeds of the sicklepod plant, a member of the legume family. It has skin conditioning properties.

Due to the polysaccharide content, this extract can moisturize and soothe the skin.

Research on the seeds have shown that some of the compounds in the extract demonstrate antioxidant activity comparable to Ascorbic Acid.

Please know that Ascorbic acid does have decades of research so it is still the gold standard. But there's no harm in using this as a supportive ingredient unless you have a legume allergy. Those with a legume allergy should definitely patch test.

Fun fact: This ingredient has been used in traditional Chinese and Korean medicine for centuries.

Learn more about Cassia Obtusifolia Seed Extract
Antioxidant, Astringent, Emollient

Chaenomeles Sinensis Fruit Extract is an antioxidant.

Antioxidant, Skin Protecting

Eucommia Ulmoides Bark Extract is an antioxidant.

Astringent, Skin Conditioning

Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract comes from the Goji Berry. Goji berries are native to China and can be found across Eurasia.

Goji berries contain polysaccharides, carotenoids and flavonoids. Antioxidants help your body fight off free-radical molecules. These molecules are unstable and may damage your skin. By making free-radicals more stable, antioxidants can help with anti-aging.

Polysaccharides help hydrate the top layer of skin due to its ability to mimic natural carbohydrates.

Learn more about Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract

Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract comes from the root of the peony plant and has a long history of being used in traditional herbal medicine. In cosmetics, it has skin conditioning properties.

This root is rich in paeoniflorin, polyphenols, and flavonoids. These compounds are known to help calm inflammatory signaling, reduce oxidative stress, and regular skin responses to irritation.

In lab and cell studies, this ingredient has been shoown to reduce pro-inflammatory mediators and protect skin cells from stress.

Some research even suggests mild involvement in pigment regulation pathways which is why you might see this ingredient in brightening products.

Learn more about Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Prunella Vulgaris Leaf Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Ziziphus Jujuba Fruit Extract yet.

This ingredient comes from the "five-flavor" berry native to northeast Asia. It has skin conditioning properties and is rich in antioxidants.

In lab models, this ingredient displays antioxidant effects in keratinocytes (the main cells in the epidermis). Some studies also report tyrosinase inhibiting or skin brightening activity.

One study using reconstructed human epidermis found this ingredient to help counter pollution-like inflammatory signaling in skin exposed to urban dust.

Learn more about Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Barm Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Andrographolide yet.

This ingredient is more commonly known as Zhi Mu root. You might see this ingredient listed under 'Volufiline' products.

That's because 'Volufiline' is comprised of this ingredient and Hydrogenated Polyisobutene.

Zhi Mu root is rich in sarsasapogenin. This compound has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

It is commonly used in East Asian medicine.

Learn more about Anemarrhena Asphodeloides Root Extract

We don't have a description for Atractylodes Japonica Rhizome Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Saussurea Lappa Root Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Bambusa Vulgaris Stem Extract yet.

Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Extract comes from the safflower seed.

Safflower seed oil contains a high percentage of linoleic acid and oleic acid. It also contains Vitamin E. These three components are effective moisturizers.

This ingredient comes from the cinnamon tree native to southern China.

Though cinnamon has a wonderful taste, it can cause skin irritation due to its rich coumarins, cinnamaldehyde, and styrene content.

Masking, Perfuming

This ingredient comes from the peel of the satsuma mandarin fruit native to Japan.

Unlike other citrus ingredients, this one is not known to cause photosensitivity. This is because the citrus ingredients that cause sensitivity are high in furanocoumarins. When exposed to UV, furocoumarins bind to and destabilize your DNA, speeding up the rate of sunburn.

Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract is unique in that the peel contains very low levels of furanocoumarins and tested products with this ingredient confirmed no detectable furanocoumarins.

The peel is rich in antioxidants and lab studies show it can help brighten skin by inhibiting tyrosinase, the enzyme responsible for melanin production.

One study on the fermented version of this ingredient found it could help reduce UVA-induced collagen breakdown. Though it is worth noting that while results are promising, robust human clinical trials are still needed.

This ingredient naturally contains limonene and other aromatic compounds that make it a perfuming ingredient.

The official COSING database only lists this ingredient as having "Perfuming" properties at this time. The brightening, antioxidant, and skin conditioning benefits that brands market come from the research literature and from how formulators choose to use the ingredient.

Learn more about Citrus Unshiu Peel Extract
Skin Conditioning

Coptis Japonica Root Extract, also known as Japanese Goldthread, is a traditional East Asian herb. It is prized for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties.

That’s not all - research in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science found that its active compound, berberine, may help reduce fat accumulation and slow down fat cell development.

This makes it a promising ingredient for slimming and anti-cellulite products!

Learn more about Coptis Japonica Root Extract

We don't have a description for Cuscuta Chinensis Seed Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Dimocarpus Longan Fruit Extract yet.

Astringent, Masking, Tonic

This ingredient is also known as clove flower extract or syzygium aromaticum. It is an astringent, meaning it draws water out of pores to diminish their appearance temporarily.

Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is the stem of the Reishi mushroom.

The Reishi mushroom has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antimicrobial properties.

This is due to its content of terpenoids, polysaccharides, macronutrients, and phenolic acids.

Learn more about Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract
Skin Protecting

Laminaria Japonica Extract comes from a kelp more commonly known as 'sweet kelp'. It is commonly eaten in Japan, Korea, and China.

Sweet kelp is a humectant and helps hydrate your skin. Humectants draw moisture from the air to your skin.

Studies show Laminaria Japonica has antioxidant compounds. Antioxidants may help with anti-aging. Kelp also contains magnesium and zinc, making it great for calming inflammation and redness.

Learn more about Laminaria Japonica Extract
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Angelica Gigas Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Nelumbo Nucifera Seed Powder yet.

Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract comes Peony plant. It has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.

Emerging studies also show peony root may help reduce hyperpigmentation.

Ancient Chinese medicine has used peony root to treat dark spots, but studies are looking into this claim more.

Learn more about Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin Conditioning, Tonic

This ingredient is also known as Amur cork tree bark. It is a botanical extract with skin conditioning and tonic properties.

Amur tree bark is rich in compounds, such as berberine and palmatine, that are widely studied for antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity.

In lab research, this ingredient has been shown to reduce inflammation in skin cells exposed to pollution. The results were also linked to PAR-2 signaling, a pathway involved in irritation and barrier stress. This is why you'll see this ingredient in "anti-pollution" skincare.

Preclinical work also suggests anti-inflammatory benefits in atopic-dermatitis models when used topically.

Please note that these studies do not offer strong proof because they do not involve humans. However, this ingredient has low irritation/risk and there's no harm in trying it out.

Learn more about Phellodendron Amurense Bark Extract

We don't have a description for Polygonum Aviculare Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Poncirus Trifoliata Fruit Extract yet.

Moisturising, Skin Conditioning

Prunus Persica Kernel Extract comes from the kernel of the peach.

Peach kernels contain antioxidants and fatty acids.

We don't have a description for Rehmannia Glutinosa Root Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Tricholoma Matsutake Extract yet.

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract comes from the Japanese Pepper, also known as the Prickly Ash. This plant is native to the Korean peninsula and Japan.

The pepper has antioxidant properties. It may help reduce the signs of aging.

For those with fragrance sensitivities, Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract contains limonene.

If you have concerns, we recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient.

The Japanese Pepper is related to the Sichuan Pepper.

Learn more about Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract
Masking, Skin Conditioning, Tonic

Zingiber Officinale is more commonly known as ginger.

Ginger root has antioxidant, anti-inflammation, and antimicrobial properties.

The antioxidant properties help protect your body from free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. As a result, ginger may help slow down signs of aging such as hyperpigmentation and wrinkles.

Studies show ginger inhibits the enzyme that breaks down collagen. It also helps with:

This ingredient has no negative side-effects and is safe to use unless one has a specific allergy to it.

Ginger originates from Southeast Asia but has spread throughout the world. It is now a common spice used in many cultures.

Learn more about Zingiber Officinale Root Extract
Astringent, Masking, Tonic

This ingredient comes from the pomegranate plant. It's rich in antioxidants (punicalagins, ellagic acid, and anthocyanins) that also give pomegranates their vivid color and reputation as a "superfruit".

Research on skin cells, reconstructed skin models, and in small human trials is pretty encouraging, this extract:

Ellagic acid has also been shown to slow the enzyme that makes pigment so it can help even out dark spots and uneven skin tone over time.

A 2025 study where 60 women used either a pomegranate extract or a placebo backed this up; the pomegranate group had less redness, less extra pigment, and better-hydrated skin after UV exposure. Needless to say, this ingredient should not be replacing your sunscreen.

Learn more about Punica Granatum Extract
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Emollient

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract is from a flowering plant native to Eastern US and Canada.

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract has antioxidant properties. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

Cimicifuga Racemosa Root has been used in traditional indigenous medicine.

Other colloquial names for this plant include black bugbane, black snakeroot, rattle-top, or fairy candle

Learn more about Cimicifuga Racemosa Root Extract

This ingredient comes from the Asian mountain yam and has skin conditioning properties. Clinical studies have confirmed this ingredient to work as an effective moisturizer.

The extract is rich in compounds like diosgenin, polysaccharides, and polyphenols, gallic acid, and vanillic acid. Research on these extracts has demonstrated antioxidant effects in-vitro and anti-inflammatory activity in animal models.

The bioactives in the root extract have also been shown in lab tests to have anti-wrinkle, antioxidant, and anti-allergy properties.

A big 2022 review looked at the whole Dioscorea family and found these plants consistently showed antioxidant activity across the board.

This ingredient is gentle and well-tolerated by all skin types.

Learn more about Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract

Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract comes from the roots of the Lithospermumerythrorhizon plant, or the purple gromwell plant.

Studies show this root extract has anti-inflammatory properties and protects against oxidative stress. It also displayed UV absorption capability and protection against UV-B damage. However, it should not replace your sunscreen.

The dried roots of this plant are used in traditional Chinese and Japanese medicine due to its antiviral properties.

Learn more about Lithospermum Erythrorhizon Root Extract
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Trifolium Pratense Leaf Extract is an antioxidant.

Skin Conditioning

Glycine Soja Seed Extract comes from the seed of the wild soybean plant. Wild soybean extract contains fatty acids (linoleic, oleic, linolenic), vitamin E, and antioxidants.

The wild soybean contains soyasaponins, a bioactive compound. Soyasaponins have inflammatory, antimutagenic, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial properties. Soyasaponin has also been found to inhibit the melanin-creation process.

Two powerful components found in the wild soybean include genistein and diadzein. These two isoflavones are potent antioxidants with anti-inflammatory properties. Genistein in particular has been found to prevent redness caused by UV exposure.

One study from South Korea found wild soybean extract to help promote hair growth at the cellular level.

The wild soybean plant is a cousin to the famous soybean that gives us tofu, soy milk, and soy sauce.

Learn more about Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin Protecting

We don't have a description for Tuber Aestivum Extract yet.

We don't have a description for Panax Ginseng Leaf/Stem Extract yet.

Buffering, Masking

Tromethamine helps balance the pH and improve the texture of a product. It is synthetically created.

As an emulsifier, Tromethamine prevents oil and water ingredients from separating. This helps stabilize the product and elongate a product's shelf life. Tromethamine also makes a product thicker.

Tromethamine helps balance the pH level of a product. Normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5). The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome. Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Oral Tromethanmine is an anti-inflammatory drug but plays the role of masking, adding fragrance, and/or balancing pH in skincare.

1,3-Propanediol, 2-amino-2-(hydroxymethyl)-

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Trisodium EDTA is one of those quietly essential helper ingredients that most people have never heard of. You'll most likely spot it near the end of ingredient lists in almost every category of skincare.

So what does it actually do?

Its main job is chelation; this is a fancy word to say it grabs onto metal ions and neutralizes them. This is because even purified water in cosmetics contains trace amounts of metals that can cause big problems in a formula.

These trace metals can break down actives faster, cause discoloration, promote rancidity in oils, and make preservatives less effective. Trisodium EDTA binds to these metals and takes them out of the equation so your products can stay stable and effective for longer.

There's also an added bonus: by neutralizing the metals ions that bacteria need to thrive, this ingredient also acts as a preservative booster.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetic formulations. It is not considered an irritant, sensitizer, and is barely absorbed through the skin.

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Absorbent

Dextrin is used to thicken a product and helps bind ingredients together. It is created from starch and glycogen.

As an emulsifier, dextrin prevents ingredients from separating. This helps elongate a product's shelf life.

Studies show coating UV filters with dextrin prevents these ingredients from being absorbed. This helps UV ingredients last longer on the skin.

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Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 77891 is a white pigment from Titanium dioxide. It is naturally found in minerals such as rutile and ilmenite.

It's main function is to add a white color to cosmetics. It can also be mixed with other colors to create different shades.

Ci 77891 is commonly found in sunscreens due to its ability to block UV rays.

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Cosmetic Colorant

Mica is a naturally occurring mineral used to add shimmer and color in cosmetics. It can also help improve the texture of a product or give it an opaque, white/silver color.

Serecite is the name for very fine but ragged grains of mica.

This ingredient is often coated with metal oxides like titanium dioxide. Trace amounts of heavy metals may be found in mica, but these metals are not harmful in our personal products.

Mica has been used since prehistoric times throughout the world. Ancient Egyptian, Indian, Greek, Roman, Aztec, and Chinese civilizations have used mica.

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Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 77491 is also hydrated iron III oxide. It's sole purpose is to give a red/pink hue to products.

Iron III oxides are classified as inorganic chemicals for coloring.

Synthetically created Ci 77491 is considered safer than those naturally found. This is because the synthetically created version may contain less impurities. Iron oxides are generally non-toxic and non-allergenic.

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Masking, Perfuming

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Learn more about Parfum
Perfuming, Solvent

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Limonene
Perfuming

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

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Perfuming

Hexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.

This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.

Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.

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Antimicrobial, Perfuming, Solvent

Benzyl Benzoate is usually created from the condensation of benzoic acid and benzyl alcohol. It is used as a preservative, solvent, and has a floral/balsamic scent in large amounts.

As a preservative, Benzyl Benzoate works against bacteria and fungus. It is often used to treat scabies and lice in medicine.

Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.

Due to its fragrance, Benzyl Benzoate can be sensitizing and may cause contact dermatitis. It is a known EU allergen. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Benzyl Benzoate can be naturally found in cranberries and peaches.

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Perfuming, Tonic

Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.

Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.

Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.

Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.

Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.

Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.

2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-

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Perfuming

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

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Perfuming

Hydroxycitronellal is a fragrance created from citronellal. The smell of hydroxycitronellal is often described as "citrus-like" or "melon-like".

Hydroxycitronellal is a known EU allergen and may cause irritation when applied to the skin.

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The History of Whoo is a Korean brand

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· Updated November 11, 2025 Added by douglasvargas1