What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantStearic Acid
CleansingCoco-Caprylate
EmollientCoconut Alkanes
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientBis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2
EmollientPropanediol
SolventHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientTranexamic Acid
AstringentGlyceryl Oleate Citrate
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningRetinal
Skin ConditioningN-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningTasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantCalendula Officinalis Flower Extract
MaskingAnthemis Nobilis Flower Oil
MaskingOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientHaematococcus Pluvialis Extract
AntioxidantChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingHelianthus Annuus Extract
EmollientRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCoco-Glucoside
CleansingTetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
AntioxidantGlucose
HumectantXanthophylls
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCellulose Gum
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Tocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Glycerin, Stearic Acid, Coco-Caprylate, Coconut Alkanes, Glycine Soja Oil, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Alcohol, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Propanediol, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Tranexamic Acid, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate, Retinol, Retinal, N-Prolyl Palmitoyl Tripeptide-56 Acetate, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Tasmannia Lanceolata Fruit/Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Haematococcus Pluvialis Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Acacia Senegal Gum, Xanthan Gum, Coco-Glucoside, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Glucose, Xanthophylls, Lecithin, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Cellulose Gum, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Behenyl Alcohol, Hydroxyacetophenone, Arachidyl Glucoside, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Pentylene Glycol, Sodium Phytate, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycereth-26
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientJojoba Esters
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientC10-18 Triglycerides
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningNarcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract
AstringentOryza Sativa Extract
AbsorbentSchisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningBisabolol
AntioxidantRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialGlycerin
Humectant4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
MaskingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Extract
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPolysilicone-11
Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingButylene Glycol
HumectantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
PEG-40 Stearate
EmulsifyingPolyisobutene
Cetearyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethyl Isosorbide
SolventHydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingPEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether
EmulsifyingDimethiconol
EmollientDecyl Glucoside
CleansingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningCeteareth-20
CleansingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Sodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Glycereth-26, Dimethicone, Jojoba Esters, 1,2-Hexanediol, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, C10-18 Triglycerides, Retinol, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Oligopeptide-1, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Narcissus Tazetta Bulb Extract, Oryza Sativa Extract, Schisandra Chinensis Fruit Extract, Bisabolol, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Glycerin, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, Adenosine, Helianthus Annuus Extract, Tocopherol, Glyceryl Stearate, Polysilicone-11, Allyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer, Butylene Glycol, Polysorbate 20, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, PEG-40 Stearate, Polyisobutene, Cetearyl Alcohol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Dimethiconol, Decyl Glucoside, Pentylene Glycol, Ceteareth-20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Hydroxyacetophenone, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.Â
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservativesÂ
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCoco-Caprylate/Caprate is a lightweight ester created from coconut oil fatty acids, caprylic acid, and capric acid.
It is an emollient that helps soften skin and reduce transepidermal water loss (TEWL). What sets it apart from heavier emollients is its ultralight, non-greasy feel.
Once applied, this ingredient dries down quickly and leaves a dry, silky finish behind. This also helps improve spreadability and texture.
This ingredient has an excellent safety-record and is non-irritating.
Typical concentrations for cosmetics range from 0.5-62%.
Research on Malassezia growth found no growth on fatty acid esters with chain lengths shorter than 12 carbons (it prefers C11-24).
Since Coco-Caprylate/Caprate is built on C8 and C10 fatty acids, it is out of the range that Malassezia metabolizes, and therefore safe for fungal acne.
Learn more about Coco-Caprylate/CaprateDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDimethyl Isosorbide is a low-irritation solvent that helps deliver actives into your skin. It is created from glucose.
Research shows how well this ingredient works depends on the active and formulation rather than the concentration alone. This means adding more Dimethyl Isosorbide does not guarantee better penetration of ingredients into the skin.
Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHelianthus Annuus Extract comes from the common sunflower.
Sunflowers are rich in vitamin E. Studies show sunflowers contain antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.
The fatty acids found in sunflowers include (from highest amount to least): linoleic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.
These fatty acids hydrate your skin. Emollients create a film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.
Learn more about Helianthus Annuus ExtractHydroxyacetophenone is antioxidant with skin conditioning and soothing properties. It also boosts the efficiency of preservatives.
Though naturally occuring in Norwegian spruce needles, this ingredient is usually synthetically created.
This ingredient is not irritating or sensitizing. Recent research also suggests it may have skin-brightening effects through tyrosinase inhibition.
Learn more about HydroxyacetophenoneThis is a synthetic polymer. It helps improve the texture of products by adding thickness and gel-like feel.
It is also an emulsifer, meaning it prevents ingredients such as oil and water from separating. It also helps evenly disperse other ingredients.
This ingredient is a retinoid. It usually goes by a more common name: "Granactive".
Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes retinol and tretinoin.
Retinoids have been proven to:
So what is the difference between all the retinoids?
Most retinoids need to go through a conversion line to become effective on skin. The ending product is retinoic acid. Retinoic acid is AKA tretinoin.
HPR is an ester of tretinoin. Emerging studies suggest HPR to have an added benefit that other retinoids don't have: Low irritation.
A study from 2021 found HPR to have the greatest stability when exposed to light and temperature out of all the commercial retinoids.
A note about naming:
The name "Granactive" is the trade name and the name most commonly used on packages.
Granactive is the name of the mixture - about 90% solvent and 10% HPR. A product with 5% granactive has 0.5% HPR.
Learn more about Hydroxypinacolone RetinoateOryza Sativa Bran Extract comes from the outer layer of a rice kernel. It is a byproduct of milling rice, or the operation to produce a whole grain rice product.
This ingredient has moisturizing properties due to its components of polysaccharides and omega-3 fatty acids. It also contains calcium, selenium, phosphorus, iron, and zinc.
Oryza Sativa Bran Extract contains numerous antioxidants such as ferulic acid. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material.
Learn more about Oryza Sativa Bran ExtractPentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.
The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.
This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.
Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.
Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.
Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolRetinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract comes from rosemary. Rosemary is native to the Mediterranean.
While Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil can be volatile due to its fragrant properties, the fragrance components are usually removed in the leaf extract.
Rosemary Leaf Extract contains many antioxidants such as rosmarinic acid and caffeic acid. Rosemarinic acid, a compound found in rosemary leaf, has been found to help soothe skin conditions such as eczema and acne.
Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf ExtractSorbitan Isostearate is an emulsifer. It is created from isostearic acid and sorbitol.
As an emulsifier, it keeps the water and oil ingredients from separating. This keeps formulas stable and smooth.
In a 24 hour occlusive patch test on 56 subjects, 10% sorbitan isostearate was completely non-irritating. Most formulas use less than 10%.
Because it's a fatty acid ester, it may not be fungal acne safe since the Malassezia yeast can utilize it as a nutrient source.
Learn more about Sorbitan IsostearateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water