What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycolic Acid
BufferingNeopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantStearic Acid
CleansingSodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientIsohexadecane
EmollientSqualane
EmollientEthylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningOryza Sativa Bran Oil
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningSorbitol
HumectantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil
PerfumingSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin ConditioningVegetable Oil
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientMagnesium Aluminum Silicate
AbsorbentTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningHexylene Glycol
EmulsifyingGlycine Soja Sterols
EmollientLinoleic Acid
CleansingPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningLactic Acid
BufferingCetyl Palmitate
EmollientLaureth-23
CleansingCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
EmollientLimonene
PerfumingTetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningTrideceth-6 Phosphate
EmulsifyingPotassium Bitartrate
BufferingTitanium Dioxide
Cosmetic ColorantSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantBHT
AntioxidantPalmitic Acid
EmollientBHA
AntioxidantQuartz
AbrasiveAscorbic Acid
AntioxidantWater, Glycolic Acid, Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Glycerin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Stearic Acid, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Sodium Hydroxide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Isohexadecane, Squalane, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Oryza Sativa Bran Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sorbitan Stearate, Xanthan Gum, Polysorbate 80, Polysorbate 60, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Vegetable Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sorbitan Oleate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Hexylene Glycol, Glycine Soja Sterols, Linoleic Acid, Phospholipids, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Lactic Acid, Cetyl Palmitate, Laureth-23, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Limonene, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, Trideceth-6 Phosphate, Potassium Bitartrate, Titanium Dioxide, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopherol, BHT, Palmitic Acid, BHA, Quartz, Ascorbic Acid
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingGlycerin
HumectantDiisopropyl Adipate
EmollientPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningDimethicone
EmollientButylene Glycol
Humectant4-T-Butylcyclohexanol
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingBisabolol
AntioxidantButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientCaprylhydroxamic Acid
Carbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Dimethyl Isosorbide
SolventDisodium EDTA
Glyceryl Stearate
EmollientGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientHydroxypinacolone Retinoate
Skin ConditioningLaureth-7
EmulsifyingLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningMacadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningMica
Cosmetic ColorantMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningPolyacrylamide
Polysorbate 20
EmulsifyingRetinol
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantTromethamine
BufferingZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingParfum
MaskingTocopherol
AntioxidantCI 77491
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Diisopropyl Adipate, Pentylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Butylene Glycol, 4-T-Butylcyclohexanol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-11, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Bisabolol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Carbomer, Ceramide NP, Cetearyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Disodium EDTA, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycine Soja Oil, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, Laureth-7, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Macadamia Integrifolia Seed Oil, Mica, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Phytosphingosine, Polyacrylamide, Polysorbate 20, Retinol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tromethamine, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Parfum, Tocopherol, CI 77491
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePeg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.
PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.
Why is retinol famous?
It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.
Retinol is proven to:
This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.
Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).
Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.
We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.
Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.
Read about Tretinoin
Learn more about RetinolSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water