La Mer Genaissance de la Mer The Concentrated Night Balm

La Mer Genaissance de la Mer The Concentrated Night Balm

Save

Overview

What it is

Facial treatment with 99 ingredients that contains exfoliants, niacinamide, peptides, Vitamin C, Vitamin E and zinc

Cool Features

It is reef safe

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture

Free From

It doesn't contain any parabens or sulfates

Fun facts

La Mer is from United States. This product is used in 7 routines created by our community.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

What's inside

Ingredients List

34
48
17

Water

Skin Conditioning

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter

Emollient
4 / 0 Bad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Algae Extract

Emollient

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Cetearyl Alcohol

Emollient
2 / 1 Fatty Alcohol IconCoconut Derived IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Glyceryl Stearate

Emollient
1 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride

Emollient

Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil

Masking
1-2 / 0 Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

PEG-100 Stearate

Surfactant
0 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil

Emollient
1-3 / 0 Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Medicago Sativa Seed Powder

Skin Conditioning

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake

Abrasive
Exfoliant Icon

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal

Abrasive
Exfoliant Icon

Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil

Perfuming
Oil IconEssential Oil IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Sodium Gluconate

Skin Conditioning

Copper Gluconate

Skin Conditioning
Good for Scar Healing Icon

Calcium Gluconate

Humectant

Magnesium Gluconate

Skin Conditioning

Zinc Gluconate

Skin Conditioning
Zinc IconHelps fight Acne IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores Icon

Tocopheryl Succinate

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Niacin

Smoothing

Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder

Skin Conditioning

Sucrose

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract

Cleansing
Fragrance Icon

Whey Protein

Skin Conditioning

Helichrysum Arenarium Extract

Antiseborrhoeic

Glycosaminoglycans

Emollient

Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Cleansing

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Laminaria Digitata Extract

Skin Protecting
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Eryngium Maritimum Extract

Tonic

Acetyl Carnitine Hcl

Skin Conditioning

Adenosine Phosphate

Skin Conditioning

Creatine

Skin Conditioning

Molasses Extract

Skin Conditioning

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Caffeine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Tetraacetylphytosphingosine

Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Emollient
3 / 0 Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrolyzed Rice Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Jania Rubens Extract

Skin Conditioning

Linoleic Acid

Cleansing
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Linolenic Acid

Cleansing
Fragrance IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Gold

Cosmetic Colorant

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Antimicrobial

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Skin Conditioning

Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Skin Conditioning

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract

Skin Conditioning

Punica Granatum Fruit Juice

Masking

Micrococcus Lysate

Skin Conditioning

Tocopheryl Acetate

Antioxidant
0 / 0 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Laminaria Saccharina Extract

Skin Protecting

Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract

Skin Conditioning

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking
Coconut Derived IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Tourmaline

Glycine Soja Seed Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Humulus Lupulus Extract

Antimicrobial

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Humectant
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Caprylyl Glycol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Soy Amino Acids

Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Glucosamine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Hydrolyzed Algin

Faex Extract

Skin Conditioning

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Pentylene Glycol

Skin Conditioning
Good for Barrier Repair Icon

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Masking

Lecithin

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Polymethylsilsesquioxane

Silicon Icon

Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Silicon IconGood for Oily Skin Icon

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Sorbic Acid

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Parfum

Masking
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Cyclodextrin

Absorbent

Isododecane

Emollient

Trimethylsiloxysilicate

Emollient
Silicon Icon

Alcohol Denat.

Antimicrobial
Alcohol IconCan worsen Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Disodium EDTA

BHT

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Citronellol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Geraniol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Hydroxycitronellal

Perfuming
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Citral

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Benzyl Benzoate

Antimicrobial
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Limonene

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

CI 14700

Cosmetic Colorant
2 / 1

CI 15985

Cosmetic Colorant

Water, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Glycerin, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Algae Extract, Dimethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, PEG-100 Stearate, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Medicago Sativa Seed Powder, Helianthus Annuus Seedcake, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Sodium Gluconate, Copper Gluconate, Calcium Gluconate, Magnesium Gluconate, Zinc Gluconate, Tocopheryl Succinate, Niacin, Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder, Sucrose, Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract, Whey Protein, Helichrysum Arenarium Extract, Glycosaminoglycans, Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Niacinamide, Laminaria Digitata Extract, Eryngium Maritimum Extract, Acetyl Carnitine Hcl, Adenosine Phosphate, Creatine, Molasses Extract, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Caffeine, Tetraacetylphytosphingosine, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Hydrolyzed Rice Extract, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate, Jania Rubens Extract, Linoleic Acid, Linolenic Acid, Gold, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Crithmum Maritimum Extract, Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract, Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract, Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract, Punica Granatum Fruit Juice, Micrococcus Lysate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Laminaria Saccharina Extract, Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Tourmaline, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Humulus Lupulus Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Caprylyl Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Soy Amino Acids, Acetyl Glucosamine, Hydrolyzed Algin, Faex Extract, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Pentylene Glycol, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Lecithin, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid, Sorbic Acid, Parfum, Xanthan Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Cyclodextrin, Isododecane, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Alcohol Denat., Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Disodium EDTA, BHT, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Phenoxyethanol, Citronellol, Linalool, Geraniol, Hydroxycitronellal, Citral, Benzyl Benzoate, Limonene, CI 14700, CI 15985

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.

Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).

Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.

Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.

While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.

This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.

Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter comes from the Theobroma cacoa, or Cacao tree. Cacao trees are native to tropical landscapes.

Like other plant butters, Cacao seed butter is an emollient. Emollients help soothe and soften your skin. By creating a barrier to trap moisture in, emollients help keep your skin hydrated.

Cacao seed butter contains antioxidants known as polyphenols. Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules by stabilizing them. Unstable free-radicals may cause damage to your skin cells. Antioxidants may help with anti-aging.

Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter can be bad for acne prone skin.

Learn more about Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter
Emollient, Humectant, Masking

Algae Extract is a confusing name. This is because algae is an informal term for a group of 30,000 aquatic organisms that can photosynthesize.

The term 'algae extract' can refer to any one, or a blend of, the 30,000 types.

Algae is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells, such as pollution.

Algae can also help with soothing and hydrating skin.

Many different types of algae have different benefits.

Learn more about Algae Extract
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Learn more about Dimethicone
Emollient, Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising

Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.

Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.

It plays several roles in a formula:

Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.

Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.

However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.

Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.

Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.

Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.

This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.

A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Cetearyl Alcohol
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol
Emollient, Emulsifying

Glyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.

Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.

This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.

A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.

Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.

Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.

Learn more about Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

We don't have a description for Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is the oil from the apricot.

Apricot Kernel Oil is an emollient and helps soften skin. This is due to its fatty acid components. Some of these fatty acids include linoleic and oleic acid.

This ingredient also has antioxidant properties from Vitamins A, C, and E. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. Besides being antioxidants, these vitamins provide plenty of skin benefits as well.

Learn more about Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
Surfactant

Peg-100 Stearate is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps keep skin soft by trapping moisture in. On the other hand, emulsifiers help prevent oil and water from separating in a product.

PEGS are a hydrophilic polyether compound . There are 100 ethylene oxide monomers in Peg-100 Stearate. Peg-100 Stearate is polyethylene glycol ester of stearic acid.

Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil is the cold-pressed oil from sesame seeds.

It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent made up of roughly 82-85% unsaturated fatty acids, mostly linoleic (~41%) and oleic acid (~39%).

This pairing gives it barrier-supporting and moisturizing properties. Linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid, can be incorporated into complex skin lipids. Topical application has shown barrier repair, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing effects in cell and animal studies.

Beyond fatty acids, sesame oil brings something more distinctive to the table:

It contains natural antioxidants sesamol, sesamolin, and gamma-tocopherol. These also give the oil notably high oxidative stability.

One of the oil's key lignans, sesamin, has also demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity in preclinical models.

A 2023 clinical study found that a single application of sesame seed oil to the forearms of 35 healthy women improved stratum corneum hydration (though it didn't outperform raspberry seed oil).

The comedogenic rating of 1-3 depends on the type of sesame oil; unrefined carries a rating of 3 while refined sesame oil drops to a 1.

This ingredient may not be safe for fungal acne as it contains fatty acids that can feed Malassezia.

Learn more about Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Medicago Sativa Seed Powder yet.

Helianthus Annuus Seedcake is an exfoliant.

Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Meal comes from the Sweet Almond tree. This sweet almond seed meal is the residue from expressing almond oil.

As an abrasive, it can help exfoliate the top layer of skin.

Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

This oil is derived from the leaves of Eucalyptus Globulus, a type of Eucalyptus tree native to Australia.

Though this oil shows antibacterial and antioxidant activity, it is also a known skin-irritant due to its fragrance components.

Skin Conditioning

This is the synthetic salt of gluconic acid, a form of PHA and mild exfoliant.

It is mainly used to stabilize oil and butter formulations from going bad. Sodium gluconate is a humectant, pH regulator, and chelating agent.

Chelating agents help neutralize unwanted metals from affecting the formulation.

Sodium gluconate is water-soluble.

Learn more about Sodium Gluconate
Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

This ingredient is a copper salt known for its wound healing properties.

Our bodies use copper to help stabilize our skin's collagen and elastin. Its also an essential for superoxide dismutase, an enzyme with strong antioxidant properties.

Copper has wound healing properties due to its role in creating new blood vessels and tissue repair.

Learn more about Copper Gluconate
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is calcium salt of gluconic acid. It is a humectant, meaning it attracts water to your skin.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Magnesium Gluconate yet.

Skin Conditioning

Zinc gluconate has antibacterial and wound healing properties. It is particularly effective against fighting inflammatory acne.

This ingredient is the zinc salt of the PHA gluconic acid. PHAs are gentle cousins to AHAs.

Antioxidant

Tocopheryl Succinate is an antioxidant.

Smoothing

Niacin is the other form of B3, with the other being niacinamide. The two have similar skin benefits: reducing inflammation, strengthening the skin barrier, and fading dark spots.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Sesamum Indicum Seed Powder yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

Sucrose is a natural sugar found in fruits, vegetables, and nuts. It is the main constituent of white sugar.

In skincare, sucrose is a humectant and can be a mild exfoliant.

Sucrose is hydrophilic, meaning it attracts water. This makes it an effective humectant and helps hydrate the skin.

Studies show sugars may worsen acne-prone skin due to it disrupting the skin's natural biome. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

In some products such as body scrubs, sucrose is used as an gentle exfoliant.

The term 'sucrose' comes from the french word for sugar, 'sucre'.

Learn more about Sucrose
Cleansing, Perfuming, Skin Conditioning

Citrus Aurantifolia Peel Extract is a fragrance.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Whey Protein yet.

Antiseborrhoeic, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

We don't have a description for Helichrysum Arenarium Extract yet.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Glycosaminoglycans yet.

Cleansing, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Potassium Palmitoyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein yet.

Smoothing

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Learn more about Niacinamide
Skin Protecting

Laminaria Digitata Extract comes from the dark brown seaweed, Laminaria Digitata. It is a potent antioxidant, which also provides soothing and hydrating benefits.

Many studies show the antioxidant components of Laminaria Digitata to help with anti-inflammation.

This ingredient is rich in amino acids, proteins, sugars, and vitamins. Small amounts of minerals such as phosphorous, iron, potassium, and copper are also found the seaweed.

These components help hydrate and nourish your skin's natural barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier leads to more youthful looking skin and may help reduce the signs of aging.

Laminaria Digitata is found in the northern Atlantic Ocean.

What's the difference between algae and seaweed?
Algae is a broad term that includes seaweed. Not all algae is seaweed.

Learn more about Laminaria Digitata Extract

We don't have a description for Eryngium Maritimum Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Carnitine Hcl is an antioxidant

Skin Conditioning

Adenosine Phosphate is an antioxidant and helps soothe skin.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Creatine yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Molasses Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline isn't fungal acne safe.

Skin Conditioning

Caffeine is a naturally occurring plant compound found in coffee beans, tea leaves, cocoa pods, and guarana.

As an antioxidant, caffeine protects your skin from free radical damage caused by UV exposure and envionrmnetal stressors.

Early research also shows that caffeine can help calm redness, soothe irritated skin, and support hair growth by stimulating microcirculation in the scalp.

You might have seen eye creams marketing caffeine as a depuffing ingredient. This is because it is a vasoconstrictor meaning it can temporarily constrict blood vessels, though clinical evidence for this specific use is still limited.

Most skincare products contain this ingredient at concentrations between 1-6%. It is able to penetrate skin easily regardless of skin type or thickness.

Just so you know, a very small number of case reports describe caffeine-induced allergy. This ingredient is generally well-tolerated, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing for the majority of people.

Learn more about Caffeine
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Tetraacetylphytosphingosine yet.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil is created by adding hydrogen to vegetable oil in order to give it more stability. This process also raises the melting point of vegetable oil. In cosmetics, it is an emollient.

Emollients help soothe and soften the skin. They do this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated. Emollients may be effective at treating dry or itchy skin.

The term "Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil" is an umbrella term and can refer to a variety of vegetable oils and blends of: sunflower oil, soybean oil, olive oil, coconut oil, palm oil, and more.

Due to the differences in vegetables, the benefits may vary.

Learn more about Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed rice protein is a plant-derived ingredient with hydrating, antibacterial and anti-aging properties.

This fine, white-ish powder is protein rich. The protein is hydrolyzed into smaller peptides and amino acids.

It has the following skin benefits:

In hair care, this ingredient can help reduce breakage, enhance shine, and reduce frizz.

Read more about the benefits of rice extract here.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Rice Extract
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THD) is a stable and oil-soluble form of Vitamin C.

THD is special in that it has the ability to travel deeper into skin than traditional ascorbic acid while maintaining the same skin benefits (double win!).

Because itโ€™s oil-soluble, THD dives deep into your skinโ€™s fatty layers (think ceramides and cholesterol) to fight off the kind of free radicals that mess with your skin barrier. This makes it a great pair with water-based vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that mainly works on the surface.

Even at just 0.1%, THD is already showing great antioxidant activity. When used up to 2%, it helps keep your skin happy and calm, especially when itโ€™s stressed from pollution or sun.

Want to fade dark spots or tackle hyperpigmentation? Youโ€™ll want 5% or more. Pairing it with brightening buddies like niacinamide or licorice root gives even better results. One study even used 30% THD with other brighteners and saw real results on stubborn discoloration, even in melasma-prone skin.

A note on THD: Itโ€™s has a slightly silky, oily texture and usually shows up colorless or pale yellow (though the exact shade can vary by supplier).

While you can sneak it into water-based formulas, it really shines when paired with silicones or oils, which help your skin soak it up better.

THD is pretty stable, but itโ€™s still vulnerable to degradation like ascorbic acid. Too much light or heat (above 113ยฐF / 45ยฐC) can break it down over time. Go for dark and opaque packaging that keeps it safe and shady!

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Learn more about Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Jania Rubens Extract yet.

Cleansing, Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Linoleic Acid is also known as Vitamin F. It is a fatty acid with emollient and skin conditioning properties.

Our top layer of skin, or epidermis, naturally contains high amounts of linoleic acid.

Your body uses linoleic acid to build ceramides and prostaglandins. Ceramides keep your skin's barrier hydrated and strong while prosaglandins help control inflammation and healing.

Needless to say, linoleic acid is crucial for having a strong skin barrier.

One study found applying linoleic acid rich sunflower oil to be more effective at repairing the skin barrier than olive oil.

This ingredient can also help treat acne by softening sebum to prevent clogged pores. Another study found using 2.5% linoleic acid gel for 4 weeks showed a 25% reduction in small comedones.

Studies show it can also help lighten hyperpigmentation or sun spots by disrupting the melanin production process. It also helps your skin shed melanin pigment from your skin caused by UV exposure.

Due to its role in the production of the fatty acid prostaglandin, linoleic acid can also help reduce inflammation and support wound healing.

Fun fact: Linoleic acid is an essential fatty acid. This means our bodies cannot create it on its own and we need to get it through foods such as nuts and vegetable oils.

Just know this ingredient is not always fungal-acne safe because it is a long-chain fatty acid (with 18 carbon atoms) that directly feeds the Malassezia yeast responsible for fungal acne.

Learn more about Linoleic Acid
Cleansing, Emollient, Perfuming

Linolenic Acid is also known as "ALA" or alpha-linolenic acid. It is a key fatty acid.

Our skin uses this ingredient for maintaining a healthy skin barrier, regulating inflammation, and supporting keratinocyte function.

ALA is a great skin hydrator because it has the ability to restore lipids in our stratum corneum, or outermost layer of our skin; it also helps prevent transepidermal water loss.

This ingredient also helps soothe irritated skin by downregulating inflammation.

Chia seed oil is one of the highest natural sources of ALA. Research shows topical chia seed oil significantly improves skin hydration, reduces itch, and strengthens the barrier in both healthy and extremely dry skin.

Additionally, in-vivo and in-vitro studies show ALA exhibits antioxidant properties, reduces UV-induced inflammation, and supports wound healing.

Early research showed a fatty-acid deficiency in animals leads to abnormal skin barrier function. It is believed a deficiency in linolenic acid may be linked to skin disorders like eczema.

Fun fact: This ingredient is considered an essential fatty acid for humans. This means our bodies cannot naturally produce it and we must get it from food. Some foods rich in linolenic acid include walnuts, fish oils, soy, and canola.

Learn more about Linolenic Acid
Cosmetic Colorant

Gold is a metallic element mostly used to impart a metallic color in cosmetics.

Gold flakes and colloidal/nano gold are often marketed for being skin soothing, anti-aging, and revitalizing.

While lab studies suggest gold nanoparticles may have anti-inflammatory or antioxidant potential, there is limited high-quality human evidence showing clear skin benefits at typical cosmetic use levels.

The EU has raised safety concerns around gold nanomaterials due to insufficient data on skin penetration and long term exposure. Additionally, gold is a known contact allergen. This means it may trigger irritation or allergic reactions in individuals sensitive to gold.

In the EU, gold is listed as CI 77480 and only permitted for use as a cosmetic colorant. The US and FDA does not list it as an approved cosmetic color additive. This affects how products that contain gold are labeled or formulated in the US market.

Learn more about Gold
Antimicrobial, Masking, Skin Conditioning

This is a botanical extract from the rosemary plant (the same one you cook with). In skincare, it mostly works as a skin conditioning agent.

Its activity comes from a handful of polyphenols, carnosic acid, carnosol, and rosmarinic acid. Almost 90% of the antioxidant activity of this ingredient can be attributed to canosol and carnosic acid.

These compounds protect your skin two ways:

1) They fight off free radicals, or the unstable molecules from things like sun and pollution that age and damage skin.
2) They help calm inflammation by switching off the chemical signals that tell skin to get red and irritated.

Lab studies also suggest that rosmarinic acid may help protect collagen and slow sugar-related damage to it.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review has concluded rosemary-derived ingredients to be safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing.

Rosemary can occasionally cause allergic contact dermatitis (due to carnosol), so be sure to patch test if you have reactive or fragrance-sensitive skin.

Learn more about Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is a plant-derived protein made by breaking down wheat proteins into smaller amino acids and peptides. It has skin and hair conditioning properties.

People with known wheat allergy or a history of immediate reactions should be cautious with leave-on products containing hydrolyzed wheat proteins.

Skin Conditioning, Tonic

This ingredient is also known as sea fennel. It is a coastal plant extract with plant compounds like chlorogenic acid. This plant contains both "water" and "oil" parts.

One small human study (12 people over the age of 50) found formulas containing sea fennel biomass showed faster recovery of barrier function / TEWL after the barrier was deliberately disrupted.

A 2025 paper reported improved markers of regeneration in a UV-weakened full-thickness skin model using both water and oil parts. Markers include thicker epidermis, higher loricrin, and more collagen-related signals compared to an oil-only extract.

Broader phytochemical reviews describe antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activity in experimental models.

The plant's essential oil side can contain fragrant terpenes that can irritate sensitive skin, but many skincare formulas focus more on antioxidants like chlorogenic acid.

Learn more about Crithmum Maritimum Extract

Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract comes from the Japanese Knotweed plant native to Japan, Korea, and China.

This plant contains anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. It contains high amounts of resveratrol, a potent antioxidant.

The root of the plant has been used in traditional folk medicine throughout Asia.

Learn more about Polygonum Cuspidatum Root Extract
Antimicrobial, Antioxidant, Skin Protecting

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract comes from the grape vine. Grape seeds are a byproduct of creating grape juice or wine.

The components of grape seeds have many skin benefits. Research has found it to be antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory. It also contains many potent antioxidants such as Vitamin E , Vitamin C, proanthocyanidins, polyphenols, flavonoids, and anthocyanins. Proanthocyanidin has been shown to help even out skin tone.

Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Antioxidants help stabilize free-radicals by donating extra electrons. Grape seed extract may help reduce the signs of aging.

The antimicrobial properties of grape seed may help treat acne. However, more research is needed to support this claim.

Grape seed has also been found to help absorb UV rays. Grape seed extract should not replace your sunscreen.

Learn more about Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Citrus Reticulata Peel Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Punica Granatum Fruit Juice is also known as pomegranate juice.

Pomegranates are rich in fatty acids, including an unsaturated fatty acid by the name of Punicic acid. Other components of pomegranates include Vitamin E, Vitamin C, and bioactive lipids such as phytosterols, phospholipids, and triterpenes.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Micrococcus Lysate yet.

Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Tocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.

One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.

Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.

Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate

We don't have a description for Laminaria Saccharina Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning, Tonic

We don't have a description for Sigesbeckia Orientalis Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.

Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.

In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.

Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredientโ€™s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.

This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.

This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

We don't have a description for Tourmaline yet.

Skin Conditioning

Glycine Soja Seed Extract comes from the seed of the wild soybean plant. Wild soybean extract contains fatty acids (linoleic, oleic, linolenic), vitamin E, and antioxidants.

The wild soybean contains soyasaponins, a bioactive compound. Soyasaponins have inflammatory, antimutagenic, anticarcinogenic, antimicrobial properties. Soyasaponin has also been found to inhibit the melanin-creation process.

Two powerful components found in the wild soybean include genistein and diadzein. These two isoflavones are potent antioxidants with anti-inflammatory properties. Genistein in particular has been found to prevent redness caused by UV exposure.

One study from South Korea found wild soybean extract to help promote hair growth at the cellular level.

The wild soybean plant is a cousin to the famous soybean that gives us tofu, soy milk, and soy sauce.

Learn more about Glycine Soja Seed Extract
Antimicrobial, Masking, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Humulus Lupulus Extract yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 (also known as Argireline) is a synthetic hexapeptide that is often called a "topical Botox alternative".

It works by mimicking how Botox relaxes muscles; it interferes with the signaling process that tells your facial muscles to contract. This can help soften expression lines like forehead wrinkles or crow's feet over time.

The comparison to Botox does have limits because the molecule is water-loving and relatively large.

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 has a hard time absorbing deeply enough through the skin's outer barrier to actually reach the muscles.

So whether it truly works the way Botox does at a biological level is still up for debate, but early clinical outcomes are fairly encouraging.

A 12 week human study of a multi-ingredient regimen containing this ingredient saw:

While some studies have observed improvements in wrinkle appearance, it is important to note that more consistent results are seen in multi-ingredient formulations (vs just Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 alone).

Some research studies also used higher concentrations (up to 10%) while this ingredient is usually found in concentrations up to 0.005% in leave-on formulations.

Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.

Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.

Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).

Learn more about Caprylyl Glycol
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is a water-soluble blend of peptides and amino acids made by breaking down the protein from soybeans into smaller proteins.

It's the most widely used hydrolyzed vegetable protein in cosmetics and it acts mainly as a skin and hair conditioning agent.

The smaller fragments are water-loving so it forms a thin, moisture-retentive film on skin that helps reduce water loss and leaves things feeling softer and smoother.

You'll often see it credited with "firming" or "anti-aging" benefits as well; this claim traces back to lab research like Tokudome et al. (2012). This study added low-molecular-weight soybean peptides to cultured human skin fibroblasts and saw increased type I collagen gene expression + collagen content.

The caveat is that this is in-vitro and oral-peptide research so the only solid, well-established role for the topical ingredient is skin conditioning.

Typical use concentrations go up to 3.5% in mascara but this ingredient is typically used at low levels well under 1%.

It has a reassuring safety profile as well; it's not a skin irritant in testing up to 20% and has limited skin penetration due to its large size and water-loving nature.

Anyone with a known soy allergy should definitely patch test or skip this ingredient. There's also a single case of a soy-containing product aggravating rosacea via protein contact dermatitis, but this is very rare.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Soy Amino Acids yet.

Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Glucosamine is an antioxidant and humectant. It is an amino acid sugar and is naturally found in our skin.

The cool thing about this ingredient? It helps the skin produce hyaluronic acid and boost hydration. It also has antioxidant benefits to protect skin cells.

When paired with niacinamide, Acetyl Glucosamine has been shown to be effective at reducing discoloration.

Learn more about Acetyl Glucosamine

This ingredient is made from brown seaweed and is often used to improve the texture of products.

According to a manufacturer, this is a lightweight ingredient and a smaller form of algin. This allows it to be easily mixed with water and improve the spreadability of products.

It also has conditioning properties that mostly sits on the surface of skin as an emollient. Some lab research has explored it in anti-aging formulas, but the results were modest.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Algin
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Faex Extract yet.

Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (MAP) is a water-soluble form of Vitamin C. It is used in skincare because it tends to be more formulation friendly than pure vitamin C (ascorbic acid).

According to research, MAP has three major benefits:

While MAP is gentler on the skin than ascorbic acid, it is thought to be less easily absorbed into the skin.

In a well-known absorption study, pure vitamin C increased skin vitamin C levels when formulated correctly, but derivatives like MAP did not in that experiment. This suggests MAP may not always convert into active vitamin C in the skin.

Due to MAP's stability up to a pH level of 7, it is more stable to air and sunlight exposure than ascorbic acid. The best pH range for MAP is between 5 and 6.

Learn more about Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Pentylene glycol is typically used within a product to thicken it. It also adds a smooth, soft, and moisturizing feel to the product. It is naturally found in plants such as sugar beets.

The hydrophilic trait of Pentylene Glycol makes it a humectant. As a humectant, Pentylene Glycol helps draw moisture from the air to your skin. This can help keep your skin hydrated.

This property also makes Pentylene Glycol a great texture enhancer. It can also help thicken or stabilize a product.

Pentylene Glycol also acts as a mild preservative and helps to keep a product microbe-free.

Some people may experience mild eye and skin irritation from Pentylene Glycol. We always recommend speaking with a professional about using this ingredient in your routine.

Pentylene Glycol has a low molecular weight and is part of the 1,2-glycol family.

Learn more about Pentylene Glycol
Masking, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is used in skincare as a delivery system.

It works by "encapsulating" active ingredients with its unique ring shape that is water-loving on the outside and oil-loving on the inside. This improves the stability and absorption of the product into the skin.

According to a manufacturer, it also offer some moisturizing effects.

Learn more about Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.

Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:

It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.

Learn more about Lecithin

Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone used as a film forming agent.

When applied to the skin, this ingredient creates an invisible film on the surface. This film still allows oxygen to pass through, but prevents moisture from escaping. This can help condition and hydrate the skin. It also leaves a silky feel when applied.

Polymethylsilsesquioxane has not been shown to clog pores. It has been deemed safe to use up to 55%, but most cosmetics use much less.

If you have concerns about using this ingredient, we recommend speaking with a professional.

Learn more about Polymethylsilsesquioxane

This ingredient is used in makeup and skincare to thicken formulas, reduce shine, and give skin a silky-smooth feel.

Itโ€™s a white silicone powder that sits in fine lines and pores to blur their appearance though its effectiveness depends on the particle size.

You'll typically find this ingredient in amounts between 0.1-20%.

Learn more about Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer

Nordihydroguaiaretic Acid is an antioxidant.

Preservative

Sorbic Acid is a preservative that stops your product from spoiling by stopping microbes from growing.

As a preservative, it's kind of a specialist: it has a broad spectrum of activity against yeast and molds but is weaker against bacteria. That's why it's often paired with another preservative to cover that gap.

This ingredient is also pretty picky about pH; it performs best at pH 6.5 or below.

At the right pH level, sorbic acid is "active" and can slip through the outer wall of a microbe. Once inside, it turns the cell's interior more acidic to shut down the microbe from the inside.

The EU caps this ingredient at 0.6% while the CIR has concluded it's safe at concentrations up to 1%. It's most often used around 0.05-0.2% in cosmetics.

Though this ingredient is considered low-sensitizing and well-tolerated, a very small number of people may have a contact allergy to it. Be sure to patch test if you have a history of allergies towards preservatives.

Learn more about Sorbic Acid
Masking, Perfuming

Parfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.

Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.

For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of โ€œFRAGRANCEโ€ or โ€œPARFUMโ€ according to EU and US regulations.

The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.

For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.

One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.

Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.

Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.

The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.

Learn more about Parfum
Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum
Preservative

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Learn more about Potassium Sorbate
Absorbent

Cyclodextrins are ring-shaped sugar molecules made from starch. It is used to stabilize, protect, and slowly release active ingredients.

This ingredient can help prevent oxidation, reduce irritation from strong actives, and make certain ingredients absorb better once applied.

Once applied to your skin, enzymes gradually break down the cyclodextrin "ring"; this releases the active ingredient in a controlled way.

Learn more about Cyclodextrin
Emollient, Solvent

Isododecane is a fragrance, emollient, and solvent.

As an emollient, it helps your skin stay soft and hydrated. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin.

Isododecane's role as a solvent makes it a great texture enhancer. It spreads smoothly on skin and does not leave a sticky feeling behind. Isododecane also helps prevent color transfer in makeup products.

Isododecane is not absorbed into skin.

The chemical name for this ingredient is 2,2,4,6,6-PENTAMETHYLHEPTANE.

Learn more about Isododecane
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

This silicone is an emollient. Emollients create a thin film on the skin to prevent moisture from escaping.

It is not soluble in water and helps increase water-resistance in products.

According to a manufacturer, it can blend seamlessly with silicone oils, such as Cyclopentasiloxane.

Learn more about Trimethylsiloxysilicate
Antimicrobial, Astringent, Masking

Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.

The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).

This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.

However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.

Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.

This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.

Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.

Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.

The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.

One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).

Also...

This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.

The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.

Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.

This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.

Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.

Learn more about Alcohol Denat.

EUK-134 is known for its ability to mimic SOD and catalase, two potent antioxidants. Antioxidants protect our cells from oxidative damage and premature aging.

According to a manufacturer and studies from Estee Lauder, EUK-134 protects the skin against UV induced DNA damage, reduces redness, and protects skin against toxic compounds.

Like SOD, EUK-134 specifically targets superoxide anions and pro-oxidant molecules.
EUK-134 is able to transform ROS (reactive oxygen species) into water and oxygen while destroying hydrogen peroxide.

Our cells create ROS as a byproduct of every day cell activity. Studies show overproduction of ROS is linked to inflammation and aging.

Why is there hydrogen peroxide in our cells? Our bodies produce hydrogen peroxide as a natural defense against superoxide.

Superoxide is a reactive form of oxygen ion that damages our cells. It is toxic in high concentrations, hence why our bodies produce hydrogen peroxide to protect itself.

However, this hydrogen peroxide is a double-edged sword. While it protects us against superoxide, hydrogen peroxide is corrosive on skin. It is also linked to the aging process.

This is where EUK-134 comes in: it can neutralize superoxide and hydrogen peroxide, making it a great anti-aging ingredient.

Learn more about Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride

Disodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.

This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:

On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.

One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).

Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.

You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.

Learn more about Disodium EDTA
BHT
Antioxidant, Masking

BHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.

As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.

The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.

However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.

Learn more about BHT

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (long name, huh?) is a synthetic antioxidant.

It is used to help stabilize other antioxidants or prevent the color from changing in a product.

As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radical molecules. Free-radical molecules are capable of damaging our cells and other genetic material. Thus, antioxidants may reduce the signs of aging.

This ingredient is oil-soluble.

Learn more about Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
Preservative

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.

It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.

Perfuming

Citronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".

Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.

Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.

Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,

Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.

Learn more about Citronellol
Perfuming

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Learn more about Linalool
Perfuming, Tonic

Geraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.

Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.

Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.

Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.

Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.

Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.

2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-

Learn more about Geraniol
Perfuming

Hydroxycitronellal is a fragrance created from citronellal. The smell of hydroxycitronellal is often described as "citrus-like" or "melon-like".

Hydroxycitronellal is a known EU allergen and may cause irritation when applied to the skin.

Perfuming

Citral is the molecule responsible for the fresh lemon scent in lemon, lime, and lemongrass. It is a fragrance ingredient that can be created from plant essential oils or synthetically.

Though Citral has documented antimicrobial activity against acne bacteria (which is where the marketing claims about it being good for acne-prone skin originate), real formulas use it at fragrance-level concentrations under 1% so there's likely no skin benefit.

You should know this ingredient is a known EU fragrance allergen.

Animal studies classifies this ingredient as a weak-to-moderate skin sensitizer and clinical patch testing on eczema patients confirmed it to be both a contact allergen and irritant.

The term 'citral' is a collective term for two geometric isomers: geranial/Citral A and neral/Citral B.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Citral
Antimicrobial, Perfuming, Solvent

Benzyl Benzoate is usually created from the condensation of benzoic acid and benzyl alcohol. It is used as a preservative, solvent, and has a floral/balsamic scent in large amounts.

As a preservative, Benzyl Benzoate works against bacteria and fungus. It is often used to treat scabies and lice in medicine.

Solvents are used to keep ingredients together in a product. They can help dissolve ingredients to stable bases or help evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product.

Due to its fragrance, Benzyl Benzoate can be sensitizing and may cause contact dermatitis. It is a known EU allergen. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Benzyl Benzoate can be naturally found in cranberries and peaches.

Learn more about Benzyl Benzoate
Perfuming, Solvent

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Limonene
Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 14700, also known as Red No. 4, is a synthetic red dye derived from petroleum. It is water soluble.

Cosmetic Colorant

Ci 15985 is a dye made from petroleum. It is synthetically created and approved by the FDA for use in foods and cosmetics.

The color of this dye is orange/yellow.

This ingredient can be found in makeup, sun care, and skincare.

Learn more about CI 15985

Reviews

No written reviews yet. Be the first to review this product.

Where it's from

La Mer is a American brand

American flag
SkinSort Icon
Verified by SkinSort

We're dedicated to providing you with the most up-to-date and science-backed ingredient info out there.

The data we've presented on this page has been verified by a member of the SkinSort Team.

Read more about us

ยท Updated June 28, 2024 Added by Darkseed73