IDC Restructuring and Lifting Cream Ultime Eyes

IDC Restructuring and Lifting Cream Ultime Eyes

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Overview

What it is

Eye moisturizer with 92 ingredients that contains AHA, ceramides, hyaluronic acid, peptides, retinoid, Vitamin C and Vitamin E

Cool Features

It is cruelty-free

Suited For

It has ingredients that are good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture

Free From

It doesn't contain any harsh alcohols, common allergens, fragrances, oils or parabens

Fun facts

IDC is from Canada.

We independently verify ingredients and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Does this product need an update? Let us know.

About this product

Ingredients List

Dive into the full list of ingredients.

38
27
27

Water

Skin Conditioning

Cyclopentasiloxane

Emollient
Silicon Icon

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Squalane

Emollient
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking

Nylon-12

Non-Reef-Safe Icon

PEG-8/Smdi Copolymer

Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract

Skin Conditioning

Steareth-21

Cleansing

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6

Emulsion Stabilising

Polysorbate 40

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Salix Nigra Bark Extract

Skin Protecting

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid Icon

Bisabolol

Masking
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein

Skin Conditioning

Glycosaminoglycans

Emollient

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract

Bleaching
Good for Dark Spots Icon

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

Skin Conditioning

Ceramide NP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Fucus Serratus Extract

Skin Protecting

Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract

Skin Conditioning

Ceramide AP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Glycine Soja Protein

Emulsifying

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

Skin Conditioning

Creatine

Skin Conditioning

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Iris Florentina Root Extract

Masking

Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract

Masking

Citric Acid

Buffering
AHA IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract

Humectant
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Ubiquinone

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein

Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrolyzed Soy Protein

Humectant

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Rumex Occidentalis Extract

Skin Conditioning

Biotin

Antiseborrhoeic

Ceramide EOP

Skin Conditioning
Ceramide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Retinol

Skin Conditioning
Retinoid IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Lecithin

Emollient

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Ascorbic Acid

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Acetyl Octapeptide-3

Humectant
Peptide Icon

Darutoside

Skin Conditioning

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Phytosphingosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Sodium Lactate

Buffering

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Humectant
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Sorbitol

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon Icon

Polysilicone-11

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate

Emulsifying

Cyclohexasiloxane

Emollient
Silicon Icon

Sclerotium Gum

Emulsion Stabilising

Caprylyl Glycol

Emollient

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer

Sodium Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising

Steareth-2

Emulsifying
2 / 2

Sodium Metabisulfite

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconPreservative Icon

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Disodium EDTA

Cyclodextrin

Absorbent

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Cholesterol

Emollient
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Sodium Benzoate

Masking
Preservative Icon

Superoxide Dismutase

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Decyl Glucoside

Cleansing

Polysorbate 20

Emulsifying
0 / 0 Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Benzoic Acid

Masking
Preservative IconMay worsen Eczema Icon

Sodium Citrate

Buffering

Hexylene Glycol

Emulsifying
0-2 / 0-1

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Sodium Dextran Sulfate

Gel Forming
Sulfate Icon

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

Dehydroacetic Acid

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Sodium Sulfite

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin

Masking

Dextran

Triethanolamine

Buffering
2 / 0

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Squalane, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Nylon-12, PEG-8/Smdi Copolymer, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, Steareth-21, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Polysorbate 40, Salix Nigra Bark Extract, Sodium Hyaluronate, Bisabolol, Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Glycosaminoglycans, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Ceramide NP, Fucus Serratus Extract, Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract, Ceramide AP, Glycine Soja Protein, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Creatine, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract, Citric Acid, Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract, Ubiquinone, Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Rumex Occidentalis Extract, Biotin, Ceramide EOP, Retinol, Lecithin, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Ascorbic Acid, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Darutoside, Tripeptide-10 Citrulline, Tocopherol, Tripeptide-1, Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline, Phytosphingosine, Sodium Lactate, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sorbitol, Dimethicone, Polysilicone-11, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Sclerotium Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Carbomer, Steareth-2, Sodium Metabisulfite, Phenoxyethanol, Disodium EDTA, Cyclodextrin, Carbomer, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Xanthan Gum, Cholesterol, Sodium Benzoate, Superoxide Dismutase, Decyl Glucoside, Polysorbate 20, Ethylhexylglycerin, Benzoic Acid, Sodium Citrate, Hexylene Glycol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Dextran Sulfate, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Dehydroacetic Acid, Sodium Sulfite, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Dextran, Triethanolamine

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Explained

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Cyclopentasiloxane is a silicone used to improve texture and trap moisture. An easier name for this is D5.

D5 is considered lightweight and volatile. Volatile means it evaporates quickly after application. Once evaporated, D5 leaves a thin barrier that helps keep skin hydrated.

D5 is an emollient. Emollients help soften the skin and prevent water loss. Silicones create a silky texture in products. D5 helps other ingredients become more spreadable.

Studies show D5 is safe to use in skincare products. We recommend speaking with a skincare professional if you have concerns.

Learn more about Cyclopentasiloxane
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

A study from 2016 found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.

As a humectant, it helps the skin stay hydrated by pulling moisture to your skin. The low molecular weight of glycerin allows it to pull moisture into the deeper layers of your skin.

Hydrated skin improves your skin barrier; Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.

Glycerin has also been found to have antimicrobial and antiviral properties. Due to these properties, glycerin is often used in wound and burn treatments.

In cosmetics, glycerin is usually derived from plants such as soybean or palm. However, it can also be sourced from animals, such as tallow or animal fat.

This ingredient is organic, colorless, odorless, and non-toxic.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Squalane is an emollient that helps the skin hold onto moisture. It's an oily liquid that occurs naturally in certain types of fish and plant oils.

Because squalane boosts hydration in the skin, it also comes with plenty of benefits: it is an antioxidant and can help fight free radicals and skin damage. Squalane is also found to have a detoxifying effect when applied.

Squalane comes from squalene, which occurs naturally within the sebum of our skin. It is one of the oils our skin produces to keep itself hydrated. Squalane is the hydrogenated version of squalene and has a longer shelf life.

Research shows that squalane is non-irritating (even at 100% concentration).

In general, it's a fantastic ingredient. It does a great job at hydrating the skin, and it's suitable for those with sensitive skin.

The source of squalane may impact malassezia / fungal acne. This is because olive oil derived squalane can contain impurities such as fatty acids and plant waxes. Sugarcane derived squalane is recommended for anyone with malassezia concerns.

Is squalane vegan?

This depends on the source. Squalane can be derived from both plants and animals. Most squalane used in skincare comes from plants.

Please note: the source of squalane is only known if disclosed by the brand. We recommend reaching out to the brand if you have any questions about their squalane.

Read more about squalene with an "e".

Learn more about Squalane
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

  • It is a solvent, meaning that it helps to dissolve other ingredients. This also enhances the absorption of the product into one's skin.
  • It is a humectant, which means that it helps attract moisture into the skin.
  • It helps improve product application.
  • It has mild preservative properties.

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride is an emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.

Within a product, Caprylic Triglyceride can thicken the product and make spreadability easier by dissolving clumping compounds. An added benefit of Caprylic Triglyceride is its antioxidant properties.

Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Caprylic Triglyceride has not been found to be toxic for human use in concentrations under 50%.

While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this.

Learn more about Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Nylon-12 is a polymer. It is derived from 12-aminododecanoic acid, an omega-amino fatty acid

According to a manufacturer, it is a talc substitute. Like talc, nylon-12 gives products a satin feel. The manufacturer also claims this ingredients does not block pores and has moderate oil absorption.

This ingredient may not be reef-safe.

Learn more about Nylon-12

We don't have a description for PEG-8/Smdi Copolymer yet.

We don't have a description for Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract yet.

Cleansing, Emulsifying

We don't have a description for Steareth-21 yet.

Emulsion Stabilising

Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 is a texture enhancer and pH adjuster.

It is be used to thicken water-based products and create a gel-texture with a velvet feel.

One manufacturer claims this ingredient to have a pH range of 2-8 and to be biodegradable.

Learn more about Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsifying

Polysorbate 40 isn't fungal acne safe.

Skin Protecting

We don't have a description for Salix Nigra Bark Extract yet.

Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid's salt form. It is commonly derived from the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

Like hyaluronic acid, it is great at holding water and acts as a humectant. This makes it a great skin hydrating ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate is naturally occurring in our bodies and is mostly found in eye fluid and joints.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate
Masking, Skin Conditioning, Soothing

Bisabolol is famous for its skin soothing properties. It does this by blocking inflammatory signals, helping to reduce your body's reaction to irritation.

This ingredient also interferes with the process of hyperpigmentation. This can help with reducing dark spots and uneven tone.

Bisabolol is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. By fighting these free-radicals, Bisabolol may slow down signs of aging.

Studies have shown Bisabolol to have antimicrobial properties and may be a fungicide. These properties help preserve a product's shelf life.

All these properties makes bisabolol a great skin barrier helper ingredient.

Bisabolol also helps the absorption of other ingredients.

Note: Synthetic Bisabolol has been shown to be less effective.

Learn more about Bisabolol
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein yet.

Emollient, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Glycosaminoglycans yet.

Bleaching, Emollient, Skin Conditioning

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract is an extract of the roots of Licorice. It has been found to have several benefits such as skin hydrating, conditioning, and soothing.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Learn more about Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Skin Conditioning

Alteromonas Ferment Extract is derived from a bacteria from in deep sea water.

Alteromonas Ferment Extract provides the skin with soothing and antioxidants.

Antioxidants help fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.

Learn more about Alteromonas Ferment Extract
Skin Conditioning

Ceramide NP is a type of ceramide.

Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin.

Ceramides are an important building block for our skin barrier. A stronger barrier helps the skin look more firm and hydrated. By bolstering the skin ceramides act as a barrier against irritating ingredients. This can help with inflammation as well.

If you would like to eat ceramides, sweet potatoes contain a small amount.

Read more about other common types of ceramides here: Ceramide AP Ceramide EOP

Learn more about Ceramide NP
Skin Protecting

We don't have a description for Fucus Serratus Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract helps soothe the skin and contains antioxidants. It is also used to improve the texture of products.

Ahnfeltia Concinna Extract is derived from a type of algae.

Skin Conditioning

Ceramide AP is a type of Ceramide.

Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin that bonds dead skin cells together to create a barrier. Having a strong skin barrier leads to more firm and hydrated skin.

They are known for their ability to hold water and thus are a great ingredient for dry skin. By bolstering the skin ceramides act as a barrier against irritating ingredients. This can help with inflammation as well.

If you would like to eat ceramides, sweet potatoes contain a small amount.

Read more about other common types of ceramides here: Ceramide NP Ceramide EOP

Learn more about Ceramide AP
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Glycine Soja Protein comes from the soybean. It is an emulsifer and helps to condition skin. Emulsifiers prevent ingredients from separating, such as water and oils.

Learn more about Glycine Soja Oil.

Skin Conditioning

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract is from brown seaweed that grows in the northern Atlantic Ocean. It is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage our skin cells.

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract is also used to enhance the texture of products.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Creatine yet.

Skin Conditioning

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract comes from the papaya fruit. Papayas were first domesticated in Mexico and Central America.

This fruit extract contains papain and chymopapain, two types of enzymes. These enzyme have exfoliating and anti-inflammatory properties. One study shows papain may help reduce scarring.

Papaya is also a rich source of antioxidants. Antioxidants protect your skin against damage from free-radical molecules. This may help protect against signs of aging. One antioxidant present in papayas is lycopene.

Papaya also contains Vitamin A, also known as retinol.

While papaya is used as an ingredient to help lighten skin, research is limited on this.

The seeds of papaya have been found to have anti-fungal activity.

Learn more about Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Centella Asiatica Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract can be good for be good for sensitive skin. It can help to reduce redness.

We don't have a description for Iris Florentina Root Extract yet.

Masking, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Albizia Julibrissin Bark Extract yet.

Buffering, Masking

Citric Acid is an AHA derived from citrus fruits (think oranges, lemons, and limes!).

As an AHA, Citric Acid removes the top layer of skin cells from the newer layer of skin underneath. This helps skin to remove dark spots and even out skin tone.

If you spot Citric Acid near the end of an ingredient list, it's likely there as a pH adjuster rather than an active ingredient.

Read more about some other popular AHA's here:

Learn more about Citric Acid

Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract isn't fungal acne safe.

Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Ubiquinone (Coenzyme Q10) is a molecule already found in our bodies. It is a potent antioxidant and skin-soothing ingredient.

Aging and environmental exposure diminishes our skin's natural ubiquinone levels. This is much like our natural collagen and elastin.

The good news is: studies show applying this ingredient topically replenishes ubiquinone levels in our skin. This also comes with a ton of skin benefits. These benefits include:

Ubiquinone is considered a large molecule and cannot be absorbed into the lower layers of skin. This is why it is believed to be such an effective antioxidant: it protects our skin in the upper layers and prevents damage in the deeper layers.

When used in sunscreen, ubiquinone is shown to increase ingredient stability, increase SPF factor, and add to infrared protection.

Fun fact: ubiquinone is fat-soluble.

Learn more about Ubiquinone
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Cynara Scolymus Leaf Extract yet.

Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein yet.

Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 is a 3-amino acid peptide. Peptides are building blocks for protein.

This ingredient is a signal peptide, meaning it tells our skin to create collagen. Collagen is a protein that makes connective tissue. Boosting collagen production leads to a healthier skin barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier means having firm and hydrated skin.

Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 can help reduce wrinkles and make the skin look more youthful.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

This ingredient is a vegetable-derived protein made to mimic hydrolyzed collagen. It is created from soy, or glycine soja.

This ingredient is a humectant, meaning it helps hydrate the skin by binding to water. According to a manufacturer, it is also a great hair conditioner.

Though it is said to be the vegan collagen, further studies are needed to show its effects on skin.

Read more about hydrolyzed collagen here.

Learn more about Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
Skin Conditioning

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is a peptide. Peptides are building blocks for protein.

This ingredient consists of four amino acids and palmitic acid. These amino acids are arginine, proline, glutamine, and glycine.

This ingredient has many benefits. These benefits include boosting collagen production, fighting inflammation, and reversing UV damage.

By preventing our bodies from producing interleukins, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 helps fight inflammation. An interleukin is a chemical that signals to the body to produce an inflammatory response. Interleukin production is accelerated by UV radiation.

Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 tells our body to create more collagen. Collagen is a protein that makes connective tissue. Boosting collagen production leads to a healthier skin barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier means having firm and hydrated skin.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning, Soothing

Rumex Occidentalis Extract comes from a flowering plant native to western North America. It is also called 'western dock'.

Western dock is rich in antioxidants. Antioxidants may protect your skin against the signs of aging.

Rumex Occidentalis is a potential melasma treatment. The current studies look positive but conclude further research is needed.

Learn more about Rumex Occidentalis Extract
Antiseborrhoeic, Skin Conditioning

Biotin is a B vitamin that is naturally produced by our bodies. It is also called Vitamin H.

Our bodies use biotin in the metabolism process. It also helps our bodies use enzymes and move nutrients around. A biotin deficiency can lead to brittle hair and nails.

More research is needed on applying biotin topically. However, taking biotin orally has been shown to help nourish the skin, hair, and nails. They play a role in forming skin-hydrating fatty acids.

Biotin is water-soluble. It can be found in foods such as fish, eggs, dairy, nuts, and meat. Vitamin H stands for "haar" and "haut". These are the German words for hair and skin.

Learn more about Biotin
Skin Conditioning

Ceramide EOP is a type of Ceramide.

EOP stands for a linked Ester fatty acid, a linked Omega hydroxy fatty acid, and the Phytosphingosine base.

Ceramides are intercellular lipids naturally found in our skin. They bind dead skin cells together to create a barrier. The ceramides in our skin have the ability to hold water to keep our skin hydrated.

Ceramides are an important building block for our skin barrier. A strong skin barrier helps with:

If you would like to eat ceramides, sweet potatoes contain a small amount.

Read more about other common types of ceramides here:

Learn more about Ceramide EOP
Skin Conditioning

Retinol is a gold-standard ingredient for anti-aging. It is a form of Vitamin A and belongs to the class of retinoids that also includes tretinoin.

Why is retinol famous?

It has the most scientific studies backing up its skin benefits out of all the non-prescription ingredients.

Retinol is proven to:

This is why retinol is effective at removing wrinkles, fading dark spots, treating acne, and reducing the appearance of pores.

Studies show retinol is less effective when exposed to UV. Be sure to look for appropriate packaging to keep your retinol potent (similar to Vitamin C).

Using retinol or any retinoids will increase sun-sensitivity in the first few months. Though studies show retinoids increase your skin's natural SPF with continuous use, it is best to always wear sunscreen and sun-protection.

We recommend speaking with a medical professional about using this ingredient during pregnancy.

Retinol may cause irritation in some people, so be sure to patch test. Experts recommend 'ramping up' retinol use: start using this ingredient once a week and work up to using it daily.

Read about Tretinoin

Learn more about Retinol
Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Lecithin is a term for a group of substances found in plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of mixture of fatty acids.

These fatty acids usually are a mixture of phosphoric acid's choline ester connected to stearic, oleic, and palmitic acids. Most lecithins are created from plant ingredients such as sunflower.

As an emollient, lecithen helps soften the skin and creates a barrier to keep moisture in.

As an emulsifier, it also helps prevent water and oil ingredients from separating. Lecithin can help ingredients be better absorbed by the skin. The phospholipids in Lecithin can produce liposomes. Liposomes help other ingredients get through the skin barrier.

Due to its fatty acid content, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Lecithin
Skin Conditioning

This synthetic peptide is created from palmitic acid, arginine, histidine, and phenylalanine.

According to the manufacturer, this peptide is great at soothing skin inflammation.

Skin Conditioning

This peptide is more commonly known as Thymulen 4 BG.

It is derived from a youth hormone called thymopoietin. Thymopoietin helps regulate the immune system and decreases naturally with age.

According to the manufacturer, this peptide boosts the skin's immune defenses and regenerates the outer layers of skin.

Learn more about Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Antioxidant, Buffering, Masking

Ascorbic Acid is is pure Vitamin C. This form makes up the largest amount of vitamin C found naturally in our skin.

Not only is vitamin C great for your overall health and immune system, it also has plenty of benefits on your skin.

Vitamin C is best used for brightening skin. It improves dark spots, acne scars, and hyperpigmentation. This is because it blocks the process of skin darkening when exposed to UV.

Remember: Vitamin C should not replace sunscreen!

Your skin uses vitamin C to build collagen. Collagen is one key component in having a strong skin barrier and plump skin. Vitamin C also plays a role in regulating collagen, thus making it effective in improving wrinkles and fine lines.

Ascorbic acid shows potent antioxidant activity. As an antioxidant, it helps fight free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells. These antioxidants also protect skin against UV damage.

The best formulations include Vitamin E and/or ferulic acid. These two ingredients help stabilize and provide a boost in the benefits of ascorbic acid. This is because ascorbic acid becomes unstable when exposed to UV and air. In fact, you can tell your ascorbic acid has oxidized when it turns an orange-yellow color.

Ascorbic acid is generally compatible with other ingredients. However, using ascorbic acid with other active ingredients might cause irritation. Two ingredients: copper ions and benzoyl peroxide, will inactivate ascorbic acid completely.

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Foods rich with vitamin C include oranges, strawberries, broccoli, bell peppers, and more. When consuming Vitamin C, your skin receives a portion of the nutrients.

Learn more about Ascorbic Acid
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Octapeptide-3 is a synthetic peptide. It is often called a botox alternative due to its ability to restrict the movement of muscles, and thus reduce the appearance of fine-lines.

While this peptide can help reduce wrinkles and fine-lines, the research is lacking in it being as effective as botox.

All current studies for this ingredient are either from manufacturers or look at amounts far greater than in actual products.

Learn more about Acetyl Octapeptide-3
Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Darutoside yet.

Skin Conditioning

Tripeptide-10 Citrulline is a peptide.

Antioxidant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Tocopherol (also known as Vitamin E) is a common antioxidant used to help protect the skin from free-radicals and strengthen the skin barrier. It's also fat soluble - this means our skin is great at absorbing it.

Vitamin E also helps keep your natural skin lipids healthy. Your lipid skin barrier naturally consists of lipids, ceramides, and fatty acids. Vitamin E offers extra protection for your skin’s lipid barrier, keeping your skin healthy and nourished.

Another benefit is a bit of UV protection. Vitamin E helps reduce the damage caused by UVB rays. (It should not replace your sunscreen). Combining it with Vitamin C can decrease sunburned cells and hyperpigmentation after UV exposure.

You might have noticed Vitamin E + C often paired together. This is because it is great at stabilizing Vitamin C. Using the two together helps increase the effectiveness of both ingredients.

There are often claims that Vitamin E can reduce/prevent scarring, but these claims haven't been confirmed by scientific research.

Learn more about Tocopherol
Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Tripeptide-1 is a peptide. It can help to reduce the effects of aging.

Skin Conditioning

Dipalmitoyl Hydroxyproline isn't fungal acne safe.

Skin Conditioning

Phytosphingosine is a phospholipid naturally found in our skin as a building block for ceramides.. It helps moisturize, soothe, and protect skin.

Phytosphingosine contributes to your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF). The NMF is responsible for hydration, a strong barrier, and plasticity. Our NMF decreases with age. Increasing NMF leads to more healthy and hydrated skin.

Studies show products formulated with NMF ingredients help strengthen our skin's barrier. Having a healthy skin barrier reduces irritation and increases hydration. Our skin barrier is responsible for having plump and firm skin. It also helps protect our skin against infection, allergies, and inflammation.

Fun fact: Phytosphingosine is abundant in plants and fungi.

More ingredients that help boost collagen in skin:

Learn more about Phytosphingosine
Buffering, Humectant

Sodium Lactate is the sodium salt of lactic acid, an AHA. It is a humectant and sometimes used to adjust the pH of a product.

This ingredient is part of our skin's NMF, or natural moisturizing factor. Our NMF is essential for the hydration of our top skin layers and plasticity of skin. NMF also influences our skin's natural acid mantle and pH, which protects our skin from harmful bacteria.

High percentages of Sodium Lactate can have an exfoliating effect.

Fun fact: Sodium Lactate is produced from fermented sugar.

Learn more about Sodium Lactate
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate comes from licorice root.

Extracts of licorice have demonstrated to have antibacterial, anti‐inflammatory, antiviral, antioxidant properties.

One component, glabridin, has extra potent antioxidant and soothing properties. It has also been found to block pigmentation from UVB rays in guinea pigs.

Licorice Root also contains a flavonoid. Flavonoids are a natural substance from in plants. Flavonoids also have antioxidant properties.

Another component, glycyrrhizin, has been found to have anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial benefits. This may make licorice root extract effective at treating acne. However, more research is needed to support this.

Liquiritin is one of the flavone compounds found in licorice. It has been found to help lighten skin by preventing tyrosinase from reacting with tyrosine. When the two react, protein is converted to melanin. Melanin is the substance in your body that gives your features pigmentation.

Licorice root is native to Southern Europe and Asia. It has been used in traditional Chinese medicine to help with respiratory issues.

Learn more about Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a hydrating and moisturizing agent created from the reduction process of glucose.

Most sorbitol is usually made from potato starch. It is also found in fruits such as apples and pears.

As a humectant, Sorbitol helps draw water to the skin. This helps keep the skin hydrated. Sorbitol also helps create a thicker texture in products. You might find sorbitol in your toothpaste and other gels.

It is a non-irritating ingredient that is great for those with dry skin.

Sorbitol is a prebiotic. It helps promote the growth of healthy bacteria on your skin. The bacteria on your skin form a microbiome. This microbiome helps protect your skin from infection and harmful bacteria.

Learn more about Sorbitol
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Dimethicone is a silicone used for making products smooth and silky. It also has the added benefit of sealing in hydration.

The amount of dimethicone found in beauty products is considered safe and non-comedogenic, meaning it won't clog pores.

This ingredient has been found to increase absorption in skin, boosting the benefits of other ingredients.

Learn more about Dimethicone

We don't have a description for Polysilicone-11 yet.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is the lauric acid sodium salt of lactyl lactate.

Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is an emulsifier and surfactant.

Emulsifiers help stabilize a product. They do this by preventing ingredients from separating, such as oils and water which do not mix naturally. Surfactants reduce surface tension, making it easier to rinse pollutants off skin.

Due to its relation to lauric acid, it may provide antimicrobial benefits.

Learn more about Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Cyclohexasiloxane is a type of silicone more commonly known as D6. It is an emollient and solvent.

Cyclohexasiloxane is used to evenly distribute ingredients throughout the product. When applied to the skin, Cyclohexasiloxane evaporates and leaves behind a silky feel.

As an emollient, it can help the skin feel soft and hydrated. It is also used to reduce frizz in hair products.

Learn more about Cyclohexasiloxane
Emulsion Stabilising, Skin Conditioning

Sclerotium Gum is a polysaccharide gum made by the fungus, Sclerotium rolfssii. It is similar to xanthan gum.

In cosmetics, Sclerotium Gum is used to thicken the texture and to help stabilize other ingredients.

As an emulsifier, Sclerotium Gum helps prevent ingredients from separating, such as water and oil.

Learn more about Sclerotium Gum
Emollient, Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Caprylyl Glycol is a humectant and emollient, meaning it attracts and preserves moisture.

It is a common ingredient in many products, especially those designed to hydrate skin. The primary benefits are retaining moisture, skin softening, and promoting a healthy skin barrier.

Though Caprylyl Glycol is an alcohol derived from fatty acids, it is not the kind that can dry out skin.

This ingredient is also used as a preservative to extend the life of products. It has slight antimicrobial properties.

Learn more about Caprylyl Glycol
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse. 

It is a:

  • Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  • Emollient, helping to soften skin
  • Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  • Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives 

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer (let's call it AAVC for short) is a synthetically created polymer. It's used as a film-forming agent and used to thicken the consistency of products.

AAVC is able to increase the consistency and viscosity of products due to its large molecule size. It also prevents ingredients from separating.

Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Sodium Carbomer is used to thicken products and create a gel-like consistency.

It is synthetically created from carbomer and sodium salt.

Emulsifying

Steareth-2 is a waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients. It is created from polyethylene glycol and stearyl alcohol.

The 2 stands for the number of ethylene oxide units used to create this ingredient.

Antioxidant, Preservative

Sodium Metabisulfite is an antioxidant and is a preservative.

Preservative

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.

It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.

Disodium EDTA plays a role in making products more stable by aiding other preservatives.

It is a chelating agent, meaning it neutralizes metal ions that may be found in a product.

Disodium EDTA is a salt of edetic acid and is found to be safe in cosmetic ingredients.

Learn more about Disodium EDTA
Absorbent

We don't have a description for Cyclodextrin yet.

Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Carbomer is a polymer of acrylic acid. Its main role is to create a gel consistency.

A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.

Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol is an antioxidant.

Emulsifying, Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Xanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.

On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.

Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.

Learn more about Xanthan Gum
Emollient, Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Cholesterol is a class of organic molecules called lipids. It helps hydrate your skin and is essential to having a healthy skin barrier.

Our skin naturally contains cholesterol in the outermost layer. Besides cholesterol, it also contains ceramides and fatty acids. Cholesterol makes up about 1/4 of your skin's outer layer and barrier. Your skin barrier is responsible for keeping allergens and microbes out. Having a healthy skin barrier is also responsible for keeping your skin firm and plump.

Our bodies use cholestrol to create vitamin D, steroid hormones, and more.

Learn more about Cholesterol
Masking, Preservative

Sodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.

Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.

Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.

It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.

Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.

We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.

Learn more about Sodium Benzoate
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Superoxide Dismutase is found in all living cells. This ingredient is AKA as 'SOD'.

SOD is a strong antioxidant. It protects living cells against oxidative damage by breaking down radical molecules into regular oxygen and hydrogen peroxide.

Antioxidants help fight free-radical molecules that may damage your skin's DNA. This may help with the signs of aging. Due to its antioxidant property, it is used to help treat chronic inflammation.

In cosmetics, SOD is usually obtained from marine phytoplankton, bovine liver, horseradish, cantaloupe, and certain bacteria.

The three major families of SOD include: Copper/Zinc, Iron/Manganese, and Nickel.

When eating SOD-rich foods, our bodies break it down into amino acids before absorption. Foods that contain SOD include: melons, citrus, spinach, broccoli, kale, almonds, sunflower seeds, and blue-green algae.

Learn more about Superoxide Dismutase
Cleansing, Emulsion Stabilising

Decyl Glucoside is a glucose-based surfactant and emulsion stabilizer. It is created by reacting glucose with the fatty acids from plants.

Surfactants help clean the skin by trapping oil, sebum, and dirt to be washed away. As an emulsion stabilizer, it stabilizes the ingredients in a product by preventing them from separating.

This ingredient is biodegradable and non-toxic. This ingredient is commonly found in baby shampoos.

Decyl Glucoside is sometimes used to stabilize the UV filter Tinosorb.

Learn more about Decyl Glucoside
Emulsifying

Polysorbate 20 is made by combining ethoxylation of sorbitan, ethylene oxide, and lauric acid. It is a mild cleansing agent, surfactant, and emulsifier.

As a surfactant, it helps collect dirt and oils for washing. Emulsifiers prevent oils and water from separating.

Polysorbate 20 also adds scent to a product. Since it is made using sorbitol, it has a sweet scent. Sorbitol can also be found in fruits such as apples and peaches.

The lauric acid used to create Polysorbate 20 is often derived from coconuts.

Polysorbate 20 may not be fungal acne safe.

Learn more about Polysorbate 20
Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin (we can't pronounce this either) is commonly used as a preservative and skin softener. It is derived from glyceryl.

You might see Ethylhexylglycerin often paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol. Ethylhexylglycerin has been found to increase the effectiveness of these other preservatives.

Masking, Preservative

Benzoic Acid is used to preserve and adjust the pH of products.

The antimicrobial property of Benzoic Acid helps elongate a product's shelf life. Its main role is to reduce fungi growth and is not found to be effective at fighting bacteria. Therefore Benzoic Acid is always added along with other preservatives.

In its pure form, Benzoic Acid looks like a white crystalline solid. It has slight solubility in water.

The name of Benzoic Acid comes from gum benzoin, which used to be the sole source of deriving this ingredient. Benzoic Acid is the most simple aromatic carboxylic acid.

Benzoic Acid is naturally occuring in strawberries, mustard, cinnamon, and cloves. It has a slight scent but is not considered to be a fragrance.

Learn more about Benzoic Acid
Buffering, Masking

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Learn more about Sodium Citrate
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Hexylene Glycol is a surfactant. Glycols are a class of alcohols. Hexylene Glycol is a surfactant and emulsifier.

As a surfactant, Hexylene Glycol helps gather dirt and oil on your skin to be washed away.

As an emulsifier, Hexylene Glycol helps keep water and oil together. This prevents them from separating in a product. Hexylene Glycol also thins out the texture of a product by lessening viscosity.

Hexylene Glycol has a small molecular weight.

Learn more about Hexylene Glycol

Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate is a preservative.

EUK-134 is known for its ability to mimic SOD and catalase, two potent antioxidants. Antioxidants protect our cells from oxidative damage and premature aging.

According to a manufacturer and studies from Estee Lauder, EUK-134 protects the skin against UV induced DNA damage, reduces redness, and protects skin against toxic compounds.

Like SOD, EUK-134 specifically targets superoxide anions and pro-oxidant molecules. EUK-134 is able to transform ROS (reactive oxygen species) into water and oxygen while destroying hydrogen peroxide.

Our cells create ROS as a byproduct of every day cell activity. Studies show overproduction of ROS is linked to inflammation and aging.

Why is there hydrogen peroxide in our cells? Our bodies produce hydrogen peroxide as a natural defense against superoxide.

Superoxide is a reactive form of oxygen ion that damages our cells. It is toxic in high concentrations, hence why our bodies produce hydrogen peroxide to protect itself.

However, this hydrogen peroxide is a double-edged sword. While it protects us against superoxide, hydrogen peroxide is corrosive on skin. It is also linked to the aging process.

This is where EUK-134 comes in: it can neutralize superoxide and hydrogen peroxide, making it a great anti-aging ingredient.

Learn more about Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride
Preservative

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Learn more about Potassium Sorbate

Sodium Dextran Sulfate is a type of sulfate.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is a synthetic polymer. It is used to thicken and improve the texture of products.

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is also an emulsifier. Due to its properties, it can prevent water and oil ingredients from separating.

Preservative

Dehydroacetic Acid is fungicide and bactericide. It is used as a preservative in cosmetics. Preservatives help elongate the shelf life of a product.

Dehydroacetic Acid is not soluble in water.

Preservative

Sodium Sulfite is a preservative. Preservatives help prevent mold and bacteria from growing in cosmetics.

This ingredient has been shown to break the bonds in hair, acting as a natural straightener.

It is commonly used in food. It should be noted sodium sulfite degrades both vitamins B1 and E.

Fun fact: Sulfites are naturally occuring in wine.

Learn more about Sodium Sulfite
Masking, Skin Conditioning

We don't have a description for Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin yet.

Dextran is a sugar (polysaccharide) with skin hydrating properties.

Fun fact: Louis Pasteur first discovered this ingredient as a microbial product in wine.

Buffering, Emulsifying, Masking

Triethanolamine is an emulsifier and pH adjuster. It is created using ethylene oxide and ammonia. This gives Triethanolamine a nitrogen core and a similar scent to ammonia.

As an emulsifier, it prevents ingredients from separating and enhances texture by adding volume to a product.

PH adjusters are common in cosmetic products. The pH of a product can affect the effectiveness of other ingredients. A product with a high pH may also irritate the skin.

Learn more about Triethanolamine

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· Published April 23, 2023 Added by Lakooo