What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantDimethicone
EmollientEuphorbia Cerifera Cera
AstringentTheobroma Cacao Seed Butter
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPEG-100 Stearate
SurfactantBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingBisabolol
AntioxidantPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingXanthan Gum
Emulsifying1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide
Skin ConditioningSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantDisodium EDTA
Dehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeBakuchiol
AntimicrobialEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientRetinol
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantSodium Hydroxide
BufferingBHT
AntioxidantBHA
AntioxidantWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Euphorbia Cerifera Cera, Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Benzyl Alcohol, Bisabolol, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Xanthan Gum, 1-Methylhydantoin-2-Imide, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Disodium EDTA, Dehydroacetic Acid, Bakuchiol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Lecithin, Retinol, Hyaluronic Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, BHT, BHA
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingDimethicone
EmollientPolysorbate 60
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingMethylpropanediol
SolventCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPolymethylsilsesquioxane
Centella Asiatica Extract
CleansingDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningPiper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract
PerfumingPanax Ginseng Berry Extract
Skin ConditioningArtemisia Capillaris Extract
Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract
Skin ConditioningChlorella Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningNymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningElaeis Guineensis Oil
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningDimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningBHT
AntioxidantCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientSteareth-21
CleansingPEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
StabilisingPolyacrylamide
Steareth-2
EmulsifyingIsohexadecane
EmollientCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingHydroxyacetophenone
AntioxidantC13-14 Isoparaffin
EmollientTromethamine
BufferingPalmitic Acid
EmollientPolyquaternium-51
Skin ConditioningStearic Acid
CleansingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingRetinol 0.1%
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPolyglyceryl-10 Myristate
Skin ConditioningPEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
EmulsifyingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingGlycosyl Trehalose
Emulsion StabilisingBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Polymethacrylate
Laureth-7
EmulsifyingButylene Glycol
HumectantDisodium EDTA
Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate
HumectantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningRaffinose
Skin ConditioningDipotassium Glycyrrhizate
HumectantLecithin
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningBHA
AntioxidantMyristic Acid
CleansingTranexamic Acid
AstringentPropanediol
SolventDipropylene Glycol
HumectantDisodium Phosphate
BufferingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientCollagen
MoisturisingMadecassic Acid
Skin ConditioningBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantAsiaticoside
AntioxidantSodium Palmitoyl Proline
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialAsiatic Acid
Skin ConditioningGlutathione
Retinal
Skin ConditioningMadecassoside
AntioxidantSodium Phosphate
BufferingFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Tetrahydropiperine
Skin ConditioningPhloretin
AntioxidantArginine
MaskingParfum
MaskingWater, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Dimethicone, Polysorbate 60, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Cetyl Alcohol, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Centella Asiatica Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract, Piper Methysticum Leaf/Root/Stem Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Extract, Panax Ginseng Berry Extract, Artemisia Capillaris Extract, Ganoderma Lucidum Stem Extract, Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Sodium Hyaluronate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Panthenol, BHT, Cyclopentasiloxane, Steareth-21, PEG-10 Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Polyacrylamide, Steareth-2, Isohexadecane, Carbomer, Hydroxyacetophenone, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Tromethamine, Palmitic Acid, Polyquaternium-51, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 20, Retinol 0.1%, Ethylhexylglycerin, Glyceryl Caprylate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyglyceryl-10 Myristate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glycosyl Trehalose, Beta-Glucan, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Laureth-7, Butylene Glycol, Disodium EDTA, Hydrogenated Starch Hydrolysate, Adenosine, Raffinose, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Pentylene Glycol, BHA, Myristic Acid, Tranexamic Acid, Propanediol, Dipropylene Glycol, Disodium Phosphate, Caprylyl Glycol, Collagen, Madecassic Acid, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Asiaticoside, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Asiatic Acid, Glutathione, Retinal, Madecassoside, Sodium Phosphate, Ferulic Acid, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Tetrahydropiperine, Phloretin, Arginine, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
The ingredient "BHA" stands for butylated hydroxyanisole. If you are looking for the beta-hydroxy acid, aka as Salicylic Acid, click here.
In cosmetics, butylated hydroxyanisole is used as a perservative. It also has antioxidant properties. The concentrations usually used in skincare are low and do not penetrate through skin.
It is only considered a carcinogen when ingested.
Butylated Hydroxyanisole is a synthetic and waxy petrochemical. It is used as a preservative in foods and cosmetics.
Learn more about BHABHT is a synthetic antioxidant and preservative.
As an antioxidant, it helps your body fight off free-radicals. Free-radicals are molecules that may damage your skin cells.
As a preservative, it is used to stabilize products and prevent them from degrading. Specifically, BHT prevents degradation from oxidation.
The concerns related to BHT come from oral studies; this ingredient is currently allowed for use by both the FDA and EU.
However, it was recently restricted for use in the UK as of April 2024.
Learn more about BHTCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinRetinol is one of the most studied anti-aging ingredients in skincare (and for good reason!).
It's a form of vitamin A that your skin converts into Retinoic Acid, the active molecule that actually does the work in your cells.
That conversion happens in two steps: your skin first turns Retinol into Retinaldehyde (also called Retinal), then turns Retinaldehyde into Retinoic Acid.
Retinol is converted to biologically active retinoic acid via retinaldehyde by dehydrogenases in a two-step oxidation process.
Each step is a little "upgrade" toward the active form which is part of why Retinol is gentler than prescription Retinoic Acid; your skin does the work gradually. This also explains where Retinol sits in the retinoid family.
Here is the retinoid family ranked roughly by strength: Retinyl Esters (like Retinyl Palmitate) < Retinol < Retinaldehyde < Retinoic Acid.
Retinoid activity increases in that order, while tolerance runs in reverse; retinyl esters are the gentlest and retinoic acid the most irritating.
The more conversion steps an ingredient needs, the gentler (and slower) it tends to be, so Retinol lands in a nice middle spot. It's more effective than the esters, gentler than prescription options.
Once it becomes Retinoic Acid, it binds to receptors inside your cells' nuclei (called RARs and RXRs). These receptor pairs bind to specific DNA motifs called retinoic acid response elements and act like switches that turn certain genes on or off.
In practice, this means a few things happen in a formula. It:
That last two are worth a closer look.
A study that tested Retinol directly (not just prescription Retinoic Acid) found that four weeks of retinol thickened the epidermis and switched on the genes for Collagen I and Collagen III, with more procollagen I and III showing up in the skin. And after twelve weeks, facial wrinkles were visibly reduced.
Retinoids more broadly stimulate the skin's synthesis of hyaluronan and other glycosaminoglycans, part of what gives skin a plumper, more hydrated look over time.
So even the gentler OTC form is doing real structural work (not just sitting on the surface).
It's also worth knowing Retinol isn't only a wrinkle ingredient; it can help with uneven tone, dark spots, rough texture, and the look of pores as well because it speeds up turnover and influences pigment.
The research backs this up as well.
A pooled analysis of six clinical studies found that 0.1% stabilized retinol improved all signs of photoaging versus vehicle as early as week 4 and through 12 weeks, with only a few mild cases of irritation.
Another study comparing concentrations found that 0.3% and 1% Retinol were similarly effective at remodeling photodamaged skin, but 0.3% caused fewer adverse reactions when used daily (a useful reminder that more isn't always better).
Retinol is about tenfold less potent than Retinoic Acid. This is why it works as a gentler, non-prescription option that builds results over time.
Typical concentrations range from 0.1-1%, with 0.1% to 0.3% being a well-supported sweet spot for visible benefits with good tolerability.
One quirk worth mentioning: Retinol is famously unstable.
It's highly sensitive to light and oxygen, and UV exposure breaks it down into a range of degradation products.
Real-world testing bears this out, with retinoid content in some products dropping anywhere from 0% to 80% after six months at room temperature, and even more at higher temperatures.
This is why good formulations lean on opaque, air-tight packaging (think tubes and pumps, not clear jars) and often "encapsulate" the Retinol to shield it.
Signs of oxidation include your product turning yellow or smelling "off". Keeping it somewhere cool and dark, and using it up within a few months of opening helps it stay effective.
The most common side effects are mild and temporary: usually some dryness, redness, or light peeling as your skin adjusts. These tend to settle with consistent and lower-frequency use.
Like all retinoids, Retinol works best with nightly use, a good moisturizer, and daytime sunscreen.
The "ramp up" method works well: start with Retinol once a week to give your skin time to adjust, which keeps irritation low. Slowly add more nights until you reach your goal frequency once your skin feels comfortable.
Retinoids also make your skin more sensitive to the sun in the first few weeks, so wear sunscreen every morning and protect your skin from direct sun while you build up tolerance.
One safety note: topical Retinoids aren't recommended during pregnancy or breastfeeding. Systemic absorption from creams is low but because high oral vitamin A is a known teratogen and topical safety data are limited, most clinicians recommend stopping retinoids when pregnant or trying to conceive.
Learn more about RetinolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water