Versus

MEDI-PEEL Bio-Intense Glutathione White Ampoule Versus MEDI-PEEL Melanon X Ampoule

Ampoule
Ampoule
Korean Brand
Korean Brand

Updated on August 29, 2024

Overview

What they are

These products are both cruelty-free and reef safe ampoules. They have a total of 21 ingredients in common

Cool Features

They both contain hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, peptides, retinoid, Vitamin C and Vitamin E

Suited For

They're both likely to be good for fighting acne, anti aging, dry skin, brightening skin, sensitive skin, oily skin, reducing pores, scar healing, dark spots and better texture

Free From

They both do not contain any harsh alcohols, parabens, silicones or sulfates

What's Inside

They both contain common allergens, fragrances and oils

We independently verify ingredients, and our claims are backed by peer-reviewed research. Spot a product that needs an update? Let us know.

Ingredient Info

Click any item below to learn more and see relevant ingredients

What's inside (and what isn't)

What's inside (and what isn't)

At a glance

Click on any of the items below to learn more

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

found in both products
Bio-Intense Glutathione White Ampoule

Water

Skin Conditioning

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconGood for Oily Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Emollient
0 / 0 Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glutathione

Good for Dark Spots Icon

Cetearyl Olivate

Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Polyacrylamide

Sorbitan Olivate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Emollient
May worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Pulsatilla Koreana Extract

Skin Conditioning

Usnea Barbata Extract

Zanthoxylum Piperitum Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Triethanolamine

Buffering
2 / 0

Parfum

Masking
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Laureth-7

Emulsifying

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Limonene

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Hexyl Cinnamal

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Achillea Millefolium Extract

Cleansing

Malva Sylvestris Extract

Astringent

Melissa Officinalis Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Primula Veris Extract

Skin Conditioning

Veronica Officinalis Extract

Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Geraniol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Hamamelis Virginiana Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning
Can worsen Dry Skin Icon

Morus Alba Bark Extract

Skin Conditioning

Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract

Humectant

Trichosanthes Kirilowii Root Extract

Skin Protecting

Polyglyceryl-10 Stearate

Skin Conditioning
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Benzyl Benzoate

Antimicrobial
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Panthenol

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Tocopheryl Acetate

Antioxidant
0 / 0 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant Icon

Glyceryl Arachidonate

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glyceryl Linolenate

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Humectant
Peptide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Biotin

Antiseborrhoeic

Folic Acid

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Pyridoxine

Skin Conditioning

Retinyl Palmitate

Skin Conditioning
1-3 / 1-3 Retinoid IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Thiamine Hcl

Masking

Copper Tripeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Oligopeptide-29

Antioxidant
Peptide IconAntioxidant Icon

Cyanocobalamin

Skin Conditioning

Oligopeptide-32

Antiseborrhoeic
Peptide Icon

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon
Melanon X Ampoule

Water

Skin Conditioning

Panthenol

Skin Conditioning
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconGood for Oily Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin Icon

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether

Skin Conditioning

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate

Emollient
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Carica Papaya Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Eel Extract

Humectant

Propanediol

Solvent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Cetearyl Olivate

Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sorbitan Olivate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride

Masking
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Caprylyl Glycol

Emollient

Inulin Lauryl Carbamate

Emulsion Stabilising

Tromethamine

Buffering

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract

Cleansing
May cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Michelia Alba Flower Extract

Skin Conditioning

Salvia Officinalis Extract

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant Icon

Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract

Astringent

Alpha-Arbutin

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Clay Extract

Skin Conditioning

Boletus Edulis Whole Plant Extract

Perfuming
Fragrance Icon

Vitex Trifolia Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Lactobacillus Ferment

Skin Conditioning

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Disodium EDTA

Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil

Emollient
Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydrogenated Lecithin

Emulsifying
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Calcium Pantothenate

Maltodextrin

Absorbent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate

Absorbent

Garcinia Indica Fruit Extract

Humectant

Glutathione

Good for Dark Spots Icon

Camellia Sinensis Flower Extract

Perfuming
Fragrance Icon

Alteromonas Ferment Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce irritation Icon

Phenethyl Alcohol

Masking

Hydrolyzed Sponge

Skin Conditioning

Artemisia Annua Extract

Masking

Pentylene Glycol

Skin Conditioning

Citrus Tangerina Peel Extract

Astringent

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Sodium Hyaluronate

Humectant
0 / 0 Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Hyaluronic Acid

Humectant
Hyaluronic Acid IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Tocopheryl Acetate

Antioxidant
0 / 0 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant Icon

Pyridoxine Hcl

Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin

Skin Conditioning

Sucrose Palmitate

Emollient

Ascorbic Acid

Antioxidant
Vitamin C IconAntioxidant IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps brighten skin Icon

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Menadione

Masking

Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate

Emulsifying
Not safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Linoleic Acid

Cleansing
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Retinyl Palmitate

Skin Conditioning
1-3 / 1-3 Retinoid IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Arachis Hypogaea Oil

Skin Conditioning
2 / 0 Oil IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sodium Phosphate

Buffering

Linolenic Acid

Cleansing
Fragrance IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Lecithin

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Retinol

Skin Conditioning
Retinoid IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps brighten skin IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Silica

Abrasive
Exfoliant IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Tranexamic Acid

Astringent
Helps reduce irritation IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Antimicrobial

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Humectant
Peptide IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Emollient
0 / 0 Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Sh-Oligopeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Sh-Oligopeptide-2

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-1

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-10

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Sh-Polypeptide-60

Skin Conditioning
Peptide Icon

Citrus Limon Peel Oil

Masking
Fragrance IconOil IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Limonene

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Citral

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Hexyl Cinnamal

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Linalool

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Benzyl Salicylate

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Water, Panthenol, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Niacinamide, 1,2-Hexanediol, PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether, Glycerin, Terminalia Ferdinandiana Fruit Extract, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Carica Papaya Fruit Extract, Eel Extract, Propanediol, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Carbomer, Caprylyl Glycol, Inulin Lauryl Carbamate, Tromethamine, Lavandula Angustifolia Flower Extract, Michelia Alba Flower Extract, Salvia Officinalis Extract, Centaurea Cyanus Flower Extract, Alpha-Arbutin, Clay Extract, Boletus Edulis Whole Plant Extract, Vitex Trifolia Fruit Extract, Adenosine, Lactobacillus Ferment, Xanthan Gum, Disodium EDTA, Elaeis Guineensis Kernel Oil, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Calcium Pantothenate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Garcinia Indica Fruit Extract, Glutathione, Camellia Sinensis Flower Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Phenethyl Alcohol, Hydrolyzed Sponge, Artemisia Annua Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Citrus Tangerina Peel Extract, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hyaluronic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Pyridoxine Hcl, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sucrose Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Tocopherol, Menadione, Polyglyceryl-4 Oleate, Linoleic Acid, Retinyl Palmitate, Arachis Hypogaea Oil, Sodium Phosphate, Linolenic Acid, Lecithin, Retinol, Silica, Tranexamic Acid, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-10, Sh-Polypeptide-60, Citrus Limon Peel Oil, Limonene, Citral, Hexyl Cinnamal, Linalool, Benzyl Salicylate

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Skin Conditioning, Solvent

1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse. 

It is a:

  • Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
  • Emollient, helping to soften skin
  • Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
  • Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives 
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, commonly known as Argireline, is a popular peptide in skincare. It’s often referred to as a “Botox-like” ingredient because it helps reduce muscle movement.

By relaxing these micro-movements, Argireline may help minimize the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. That said, it’s not as powerful as Botox, and research on its long-term effectiveness is still limited.

Beyond smoothing, Argireline may also support collagen production. Collagen is the protein that helps keep your skin firm, bouncy, and well-hydrated by strengthening the skin barrier.

So while Argireline isn’t a miracle fix, it can be a helpful addition to a routine focused on both prevention and skin health.

Read more about other common types of peptides here:

Learn more about Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol
Emulsion Stabilising, Gel Forming

Carbomer is a polymer of acrylic acid. Its main role is to create a gel consistency.

A high amount of carbomer can cause pilling or balling up of products. Don't worry, most products contain 1% or less of carbomer.

Cetearyl Olivate is an emulsifier and texture enhancer. It is derived from the fatty acids of olive oil and Cetearyl alcohol, and is biodegradable.

As an emulsifier, it is used to prevent oils and waters from separating. It can also

Manufacturers use the name Olivem 1000. This ingredient has been found to preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria. This ingredient is grouped with Sorbitan Olivate under the name Olivem 1000.

Learn more about Cetearyl Olivate
Skin Conditioning

Ethylhexylglycerin (we can't pronounce this either) is commonly used as a preservative and skin softener. It is derived from glyceryl.

You might see Ethylhexylglycerin often paired with other preservatives such as phenoxyethanol. Ethylhexylglycerin has been found to increase the effectiveness of these other preservatives.

Glutathione is an antioxidant naturally found in our bodies. It is made up of three amino acids: glycine, cysteine, and glutamic acid.

As an antioxidant, it prevents oxidative damage to parts of our cell.

While glutathione is said to help with fading dark spots, the results from research are inconclusive. Further studies are needed. With that said, gluthatione has been shown to protect our skin from UV-B induced damage.

This ingredient is naturally occurring in plants, animals, fungi, and some bacteria.

Learn more about Glutathione
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin is already naturally found in your skin. It helps moisturize and protect your skin.

A study from 2016 found glycerin to be more effective as a humectant than AHAs and hyaluronic acid.

As a humectant, it helps the skin stay hydrated by pulling moisture to your skin. The low molecular weight of glycerin allows it to pull moisture into the deeper layers of your skin.

Hydrated skin improves your skin barrier; Your skin barrier helps protect against irritants and bacteria.

Glycerin has also been found to have antimicrobial and antiviral properties. Due to these properties, glycerin is often used in wound and burn treatments.

In cosmetics, glycerin is usually derived from plants such as soybean or palm. However, it can also be sourced from animals, such as tallow or animal fat.

This ingredient is organic, colorless, odorless, and non-toxic.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Emollient, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil is the oil derived from the seeds of a Sunflower. Sunflower seed oil is non-fragrant. It is an emollient, meaning it helps to soften the skin.

Sunflower seed oil contains many fatty acids. The fatty acids found in sunflower seeds include (from highest amount to least): linoleic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachidic acid, oleic acid, and linolenic acid.

These fatty acids help the skin create ceramides. Ceramides play a role in repairing the skin barrier.

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil helps moisturize the skin. This in turn helps the skin look more rejuvenated and smoother.

Sunflowers are rich in vitamin E.

Historians believe Indigenous cultures of North America domesticated sunflowers before corn. Thus they relied on sunflower oil for a variety of uses. One such use is moisturizing skin and hair.

Sunflower seed oil may not be fungal acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any concerns.

Learn more about Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
Perfuming

Hexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.

This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.

Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.

Learn more about Hexyl Cinnamal
Emulsifying, Skin Conditioning

Hydrogenated Lecithin is created from the hydrogenation of lecithin (a group of phospholipids). Hydrogenation is a chemical reaction between hydrogen and another element.

This ingredient is an emollient and emulsifier. As an emollient, it helps soften skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.

Perfuming, Solvent

Limonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.

It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".

Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.

When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.

The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.

Learn more about Limonene
Perfuming

Linalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.

Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.

This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.

Learn more about Linalool
Smoothing

Niacinamide is a multitasking form of vitamin B3 that strengthens the skin barrier, reduces pores and dark spots, regulates oil, and improves signs of aging.

And the best part? It's gentle and well-tolerated by most skin types, including sensitive and reactive skin.

You might have heard of "niacin flush", or the reddening of skin that causes itchiness. Niacinamide has not been found to cause this.

In very rare cases, some individuals may not be able to tolerate niacinamide at all or experience an allergic reaction to it.

If you are experiencing flaking, irritation, and dryness with this ingredient, be sure to double check all your products as this ingredient can be found in all categories of skincare.

When incorporating niacinamide into your routine, look out for concentration amounts. Typically, 5% niacinamide provides benefits such as fading dark spots. However, if you have sensitive skin, it is better to begin with a smaller concentration.

When you apply niacinamide to your skin, your body converts it into nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide (NAD). NAD is an essential coenzyme that is already found in your cells as "fuel" and powers countless biological processes.

In your skin, NAD helps repair cell damage, produce new healthy cells, support collagen production, strengthen the skin barrier, and fight environmental stressors (like UV and pollution).

Our natural NAD levels start to decline with age, leading to slower skin repair, visible aging, and a weaker skin barrier. By providing your skin niacinamide, you're recharging your skin's NAD levels. This leads to stronger, healthier, and younger looking skin.

Another name for vitamin B3 is nicotinamide. This vitamin is water-soluble and our bodies don't store it. We obtain Vitamin B3 from either food or skincare. Meat, fish, wheat, yeast, and leafy greens contain vitamin B3.

The type of niacinamide used in skincare is synthetically created.

Learn more about Niacinamide
Skin Conditioning

Panthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.

There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.

D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.

Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):

Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.

This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.

Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.

This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.

Learn more about Panthenol
Skin Conditioning

Retinyl palmitate is a form of retinoid. Retinoids are the superstar class of anti-aging ingredients that include tretinoin and retinol.

This particular ingredient has had a bumpy year with its rise and fall in popularity.

First, Retinyl palmitate is created from palmitic acid and retinol. It is a retinol ester and considered one of the weaker forms of retinoid.

This is because all retinoids have to be converted to Tretinoin, AKA retinoic acid. Retinyl Palmitate is pretty far down the line and has to go through multiple conversions before its effects are seen.

Due to this long and ineffective conversion line, the benefits of Retinyl Palmitate are debated.

Studies show Retinyl Palmitate to help:

Dermatologists say this ingredient is ineffective because it isn't used in high enough concentrations in cosmetics.

This ingredient used to be found in sunscreens to boost the efficacy of sunscreen filters.

The downfall of Retinyl Palmitate was due to released reports about the ingredient being correlated to sun damage and skin tumors.

While there is a study showing this ingredient to cause DNA damage when exposed to UV-A, there is no concrete proof of it being linked to skin cancer. It is safe to use when used correctly.

All retinoids increase your skin's sensitivity to the sun in the first few months of usage. Be especially careful with reapplying sunscreen when using any form of retinoid.

Currently, this ingredient is still allowed in cosmetics all over the world. In Canada, cosmetics must have a warning label stating the product to contain Retinyl Palmitate

Fun fact: This ingredient is often added to low-fat milk to increase the levels of Vitamin A.

Learn more about Retinyl Palmitate

Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is a form of Vitamin C. It is the salt of ascorbic acid.

This ingredient is more gentle than ascorbic acid. It is also more stable when exposed to light and oxygen.

Vitamin C helps reduce redness, improve skin texture, reduce the effects of aging, reduce the visibility of dark spots, and brighten skin.

Your skin uses Vitamin C to produce collagen and collagen production plays a role in having a strong skin barrier and plump skin. As an antioxidant, this ingredient also helps reduce the signs of aging such as fine-lines and wrinkles.

VItamin C helps brighten skin by blocking the process of skin darkening.

In a 2011 study, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate was found to have antibacterial properties. This may help treat acne.

Read more about other types of Vitamin C:

Learn more about Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Humectant, Skin Conditioning

Sodium Hyaluronate is hyaluronic acid's salt form. It is commonly derived from the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid.

Like hyaluronic acid, it is great at holding water and acts as a humectant. This makes it a great skin hydrating ingredient.

Sodium Hyaluronate is naturally occurring in our bodies and is mostly found in eye fluid and joints.

These are some other common types of Hyaluronic Acid:

Learn more about Sodium Hyaluronate
Emulsifying

Sorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.

This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.

Manufacturers sell sorbitan olivate under the name OliveM 1000. OliveM 1000 a multifunctional ingredient. It is self-emulsifying. According to a manufacturer, OliveM 1000 does not disrupt natural skin biome.

Due to its olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal-acne safe.

Learn more about Sorbitan Olivate
Antioxidant, Skin Conditioning

Tocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.

One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.

Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.

Learn more about Tocopheryl Acetate
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water

When to use

4 Routines
50% use in am
50% use in pm
50% use every on_specific_days