This anti-aging treatment is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and brighten dull-looking skin.

This brightening treatment is formulated around 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid and Niacinamide to brighten dull-looking skin and soften the look of wrinkles.

Facial Treatment
Facial Treatment
French France
American United States

What's inside

What's inside

Key Ingredients

Benefits

Concerns

Ingredients Side-by-side

Show highlights for:

Water

Skin Conditioning

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconMay worsen Keratosis Pilaris IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Octyldodecanol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Cetyl Alcohol

Emollient
2 / 2 Fatty Alcohol IconCoconut Derived IconMay worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

PEG-100 Stearate

Surfactant
0 / 0 May worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Glyceryl Stearate

Emollient
1 / 0 May worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Skin Conditioning
Vitamin C IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Tocopheryl Acetate

Antioxidant
0 / 0 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps brighten skin Icon

C13-14 Isoparaffin

Emollient
May worsen Oily Skin Icon

Guanosine

Skin Conditioning

Cyathea Medullaris Leaf Extract

Skin Conditioning

Vaccinium Myrtillus Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Saccharum Officinarum Extract

Moisturising

Hydroxypropyl Tetrahydropyrantriol

Skin Conditioning

Sodium Citrate

Buffering

Hydrolyzed Linseed Extract

Skin Conditioning

Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein

Skin Conditioning

Sodium Benzoate

Masking
Preservative Icon

Sodium Levulinate

Skin Conditioning

Stearic Acid

Cleansing
2-3 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Phenylethyl Resorcinol

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Dark Spots Icon

Adenosine

Skin Conditioning
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Acer Saccharum Extract

Skin Conditioning

Palmitic Acid

Emollient
2 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconMay worsen Keratosis Pilaris IconMay worsen Oily Skin IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Polyacrylamide

Chlorphenesin

Antimicrobial
Preservative Icon

Poloxamer 338

Emulsifying

Limonene

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Perioral Dermatitis IconMay worsen Psoriasis IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Xanthan Gum

Emulsifying

Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Benzyl Alcohol

Perfuming
Alcohol IconSynthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconPreservative IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Cinnamic Acid

Perfuming
Fragrance Icon

Propylene Glycol

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

2-Oleamido-1,3-Octadecanediol

Skin Conditioning

Leontopodium Alpinum Extract

Skin Conditioning

Biosaccharide Gum-1

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Alpha-Isomethyl Ionone

Perfuming
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

Myristic Acid

Cleansing
3 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconBad for Acne Prone Skin IconMay worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconMay worsen Keratosis Pilaris IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Geraniol

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay cause irritation IconMay worsen Perioral Dermatitis IconMay worsen Psoriasis IconMay worsen Rosacea IconEU Allergen Icon

Disodium EDTA

Chelating

Citric Acid

Buffering
AHA IconHelps brighten skin IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Potassium Hydroxide

Buffering

Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Fruit Extract

Masking

Citrus Limon Fruit Extract

Masking
May cause irritation Icon

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative
Preservative Icon

BHT

Antioxidant
Antioxidant Icon

Laureth-7

Emulsifying

Levulinic Acid

Perfuming
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance Icon

Hexyl Cinnamal

Perfuming
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Glyceryl Caprylate

Emollient

Parfum

Masking
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance IconMay worsen Eczema IconMay worsen Perioral Dermatitis IconMay worsen Psoriasis IconMay worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconMay worsen Keratosis Pilaris IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Water

Skin Conditioning

Glycerin

Humectant
0 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Butylene Glycol

Humectant
1 / 0 Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Camellia Japonica Seed Oil

Emollient
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Oryza Sativa Bran Oil

Emollient
Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconMay worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Dimethicone

Emollient
1 / 0 Silicon IconGood for Scar Healing Icon

Sucrose

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Pentylene Glycol

Skin Conditioning
Good for Barrier Repair Icon

Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil

Emollient
0 / 0 Oil IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconMay worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer

Emulsion Stabilising

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid

Skin Conditioning
Vitamin C IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Skin Texture Icon

Collagen Amino Acids

Moisturising
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Niacinamide

Smoothing
Niacinamide IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Carnitine Hcl

Humectant

Hydroxyproline

Skin Conditioning

Glycine

Buffering
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Carnitine

Cleansing
Good for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores Icon

Squalane

Emollient
1 / 0 Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate

Humectant
Helps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Tocopherol

Antioxidant
0-3 / 0-3 Vitamin E IconAntioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Saccharide Isomerate

Humectant
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Humectant
Peptide IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Superoxide Dismutase

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate

Antimicrobial
May worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Ubiquinone

Antioxidant
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging Icon

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Lactobacillus Ferment

Skin Conditioning
Helps reduce Skin Redness IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Undaria Pinnatifida Extract

Skin Conditioning

Glycolic Acid

Buffering
AHA IconExfoliant IconHelps fight Acne IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps brighten skin IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconGood for Scar Healing IconGood for Dark Spots IconGood for Skin Texture IconMay worsen Perioral Dermatitis IconMay worsen Psoriasis IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Lecithin

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconGood for Barrier Repair Icon

Biotin

Antiseborrhoeic

Maltodextrin

Absorbent
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Caprylyl Glycol

Emollient
Fatty Alcohol Icon

1,2-Hexanediol

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Carbomer

Emulsion Stabilising
1 / 0

Hydroxyethylcellulose

Emulsion Stabilising

Ammonium Hydroxide

Buffering

Polysorbate 60

Emulsifying
May worsen Seborrheic Dermatitis IconNot safe for Fungal Acne Icon

Potassium Hydroxide

Buffering

Sodium Phytate

Chelating

Sodium Citrate

Buffering

Citric Acid

Buffering
AHA IconHelps brighten skin IconMay worsen Rosacea Icon

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract

Antimicrobial
Antioxidant IconHelps with Anti-Aging IconHelps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps brighten skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconGood for Oily Skin IconGood for Minimizing Pores IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin IconHelps reduce irritation IconHelps reduce Skin Redness Icon

Elettaria Cardamomum Seed Extract

Perfuming
Fragrance Icon

Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Extract

Refreshing

Cupressus Sempervirens Leaf/Stem Extract

Skin Conditioning

Fucus Vesiculosus Extract

Emollient
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning
Helps hydrate Dry Skin Icon

Rubus Idaeus Fruit Extract

Astringent

Cananga Odorata Flower Extract

Perfuming
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Coffea Arabica Seed Extract

Masking
Helps with Anti-Aging IconHelps reduce irritation Icon

Rose Extract

Skin Conditioning

Cucumis Melo Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Jasminum Officinale Flower Extract

Masking
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation IconEU Allergen Icon

Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract

Antimicrobial

Citrus Aurantium Bergamia Fruit Extract

Skin Conditioning

Salvia Officinalis Leaf Extract

Cleansing

Lavandula Angustifolia Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract

Masking
Fragrance IconMay cause irritation Icon

Santalum Album Wood Extract

Perfuming
Fragrance Icon

Triethyl Citrate

Masking
Synthetic Fragrance IconFragrance Icon

Phenoxyethanol

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Potassium Sorbate

Preservative
Preservative Icon

Ingredients Explained

These ingredients are found in both products.

Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.

Skin Conditioning

3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid is one of the most popular "stable" vitamin C derivatives in skincare.

Plain ascorbic acid is fantastic but notoriously fragile; it browns, oxidizes, and loses potency fast. So attaching an ethyl group to the third carbon of the molecule gives it some cool perks:

In a formula, it does the 3 classic vitamin C jobs: it acts as an antioxidant, helps brighten skin tone by inhibiting tyrosinase, and supports collagen.

The evidence is reasonably solid for a cosmetic ingredient; Liao and colleagues (2018) showed it's significantly more stable than ascorbic acid while still being effective.

A 2021 study by Zerbinati and colleagues tested a serum with 30% 3-O-ethyl-l-ascorbic acid and 1% lactic acid significantly increased collagen production, reduced UVB-induced DNA damage, and decreased melanin on a reconstructed pigmented skin model.

Typical real world usage sits around 0.5-5% (and 1-2% is common for daily serums).

Amounts up to 30% have been shown to be non-irritating on human skin samples, but two isolated cases reported allergic contact dermatitis so a patch test is sensible if you have reactive skin.

Learn more about 3-O-Ethyl Ascorbic Acid
Humectant, Masking, Skin Conditioning

Butylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:

Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.

Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.

Learn more about Butylene Glycol
Buffering, Masking

Citric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.

Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.

However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.

Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.

In skincare formulas, citric acid can:

While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.

Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.

Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.

However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.

Learn more about Citric Acid
Emollient, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Dimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.

What it does:

Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:

Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.

Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.

This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.

Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.

Learn more about Dimethicone
Humectant, Skin Conditioning, Skin Protecting

Glycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.

Topically, glycerin does several things at once:

Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.

Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.

This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.

Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.

Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.

Learn more about Glycerin
Preservative

Phenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).

It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.

On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.

Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).

You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.

Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.

Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.

Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.

Learn more about Phenoxyethanol

Potassium Hydroxide (also known as potash) is a strong alkaline ingredient that does one job: it nudges a product's pH up so the whole formula lands in a skin-friendly range.

It's also the base that turns oils into liquid soap during the soap making process.

An expert safety panel reviewed it and found it safe when formulations are made to be non-irritating.

As a pH adjuster, it's typically used well under 1% though regulatory caps go much higher: 5% in nail cuticle removers and 2-4.5% in hair straighteners.

Though there is some concern for irritation from raw or high pH material, a well-balanced formula will be a non-issue for the vast majority of people.

Learn more about Potassium Hydroxide
Preservative

Potassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.

This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.

Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.

You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.

Learn more about Potassium Sorbate
Buffering, Masking

Sodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.

Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.

The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).

Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.

Learn more about Sodium Citrate
Skin Conditioning, Solvent

Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.

So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.

You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!

Learn more about Water

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