Numbuzin 9+ NAD Bio Lifting-Sil Essence Versus Allies of Skin Multi Peptides & GF Advanced Lifting Serum
This anti-aging essence is formulated around Niacinamide and Adenosine to soften the look of wrinkles and refine skin texture.
This anti-aging serum is formulated around Sh-Oligopeptide-1 and Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate to soften the look of wrinkles.
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantHydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin)
EmollientPolyglycerin-3
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantPentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventDimethicone
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingMethylpropanediol
SolventCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientPolyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Sodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningTromethamine
BufferingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPalmitic Acid
EmollientStearic Acid
CleansingSodium Phytate
ChelatingCholesterol
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAdenosine Triphosphate
Skin ConditioningHydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin
MaskingNicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningCopper Gluconate
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Copper Ferment
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Iron Ferment
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment
Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces/Zinc Ferment
Skin ConditioningCapryloyl Dipeptide-17
EmollientThioctic Acid
AntioxidantLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialGlutathione
Tremella Fuciformis Extract
HumectantHaematococcus Pluvialis Oil
AntioxidantPotassium Hydroxide
BufferingResveratrol
AntioxidantHesperidin Methyl Chalcone
AntioxidantSorbitan Laurate
EmulsifyingSteareth-20
CleansingAstaxanthin
Skin ConditioningSodium Lactate
BufferingHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningHeptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSodium Citrate
BufferingChlorhexidine Digluconate
AntimicrobialDextran
Hexapeptide-2
BleachingMagnesium Chloride
Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-5
HumectantDipeptide-2
Skin ConditioningPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantPalmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningBiotinoyl Tripeptide-1
Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin ProtectingTrifolium Pratense Flower Extract
AstringentTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-8
Skin ConditioningDipeptide-4
Skin ConditioningHexapeptide-11
Skin ConditioningPentapeptide-18
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-3
Skin ConditioningSh-Decapeptide-7
AntioxidantSh-Octapeptide-4
AntioxidantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningAscorbic Acid Polypeptide
AntioxidantHexapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningOligopeptide-3
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningTripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningUbiquinone
AntioxidantCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCaffeoyl Tripeptide-1
AntioxidantCaffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4
AntioxidantGalloyl Pentapeptide-33
AntioxidantKojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23
AntioxidantNicotinoyl Tripeptide-1
AntioxidantOctapeptide-7
Skin ProtectingOligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Decapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-9
HumectantSh-Pentapeptide-19
Skin ConditioningAsparagine
MaskingGlutamine
Skin ConditioningTryptophan
MaskingOligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-22
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-3
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Octapeptide-3
HumectantAcetyl Tetrapeptide-2
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Tetrapeptide-9
Skin ConditioningCarnosine
Skin ConditioningNonapeptide-1
Skin ConditioningWater, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Poly(C6-14 Olefin), Polyglycerin-3, Butylene Glycol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate, Propanediol, Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Methylpropanediol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Sodium Polyacrylate, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Xanthan Gum, Pentylene Glycol, Tromethamine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Adenosine, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Cholesterol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Adenosine Triphosphate, Hydroxypropyl Cyclodextrin, Nicotinamide Adenine Dinucleotide, Beta-Glucan, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Copper Gluconate, Saccharomyces/Copper Ferment, Saccharomyces/Iron Ferment, Saccharomyces/Magnesium Ferment, Saccharomyces/Silicon Ferment, Saccharomyces/Zinc Ferment, Capryloyl Dipeptide-17, Thioctic Acid, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Glutathione, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Haematococcus Pluvialis Oil, Potassium Hydroxide, Resveratrol, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Sorbitan Laurate, Steareth-20, Astaxanthin, Sodium Lactate, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Heptasodium Hexacarboxymethyl Dipeptide-12, Panthenol, Polysorbate 20, Sodium Citrate, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Dextran, Hexapeptide-2, Magnesium Chloride, Tetradecyl Aminobutyroylvalylaminobutyric Urea Trifluoroacetate, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-5, Dipeptide-2, Potassium Sorbate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Palmitoyl Dipeptide-5 Diaminobutyroyl Hydroxythreonine, Citric Acid, Biotin, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-3, Trifolium Pratense Flower Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-8, Dipeptide-4, Hexapeptide-11, Pentapeptide-18, Tripeptide-3, Sh-Decapeptide-7, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Ascorbic Acid Polypeptide, Hexapeptide-9, Oligopeptide-3, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Ubiquinone, Copper Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Tripeptide-1, Caffeoyl Sh-Octapeptide-4, Galloyl Pentapeptide-33, Kojyl Carboxy Dipeptide-23, Nicotinoyl Tripeptide-1, Octapeptide-7, Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Decapeptide-9, Sh-Oligopeptide-9, Sh-Pentapeptide-19, Asparagine, Glutamine, Tryptophan, Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-22, Sh-Polypeptide-3, Acetyl Octapeptide-3, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-2, Acetyl Tetrapeptide-9, Carnosine, Nonapeptide-1
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantHeptyl Glucoside
SurfactantIsodecyl Neopentanoate
EmollientAcacia Senegal Gum
MaskingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantPhospholipids
Skin ConditioningGlycolipids
Skin ConditioningDimethyl Sulfone
SolventOrnithine
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCopper Lysinate/Prolinate
Skin ConditioningMethylglucoside Phosphate
Skin ConditioningCrocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningDipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate
Skin ConditioningPentapeptide-18
Skin ConditioningPentapeptide-48
Skin ConditioningButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningC12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientLevulinic Acid
PerfumingP-Anisic Acid
MaskingSodium Gluconate
ChelatingPropanediol
SolventMaltodextrin
AbsorbentCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingHeptanol
PerfumingPhenethyl Alcohol
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeWater, Glycerin, Heptyl Glucoside, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Acacia Senegal Gum, Polysorbate 20, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Phospholipids, Glycolipids, Dimethyl Sulfone, Ornithine, Lecithin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Copper Lysinate/Prolinate, Methylglucoside Phosphate, Crocus Chrysanthus Bulb Extract, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Pentapeptide-18, Pentapeptide-48, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Ethylhexylglycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Sclerotium Gum, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Levulinic Acid, P-Anisic Acid, Sodium Gluconate, Propanediol, Maltodextrin, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide, Heptanol, Phenethyl Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
This ingredient shows up on a lot of "pore-clogging" lists but there's no real evidence behind that. It doesn't even have a comedogenic rating from an actual study; the numbers you'll find online come from blogs citing other blogs.
Ratings for other ingredients mostly come from a 1980s rabbit ear test. This test doesn't translate well to human skin or to real products because the ingredient sits at a much lower percentage.
Some people still find it breaks them out. So if that's you, definitely trust your skin. Just know this one's based on experience and not evidence.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Rosacea skin has a lower threshold for acids generally, with 62.5% of rosacea subjects in one study reacting to lactic acid in a sting test. This is why we mark citric acid as a potential rosacea trigger.
However, this ingredient shows up as a pH adjuster or chelator at roughly 0.1-1% in many products. These low levels are unlikely to be an issue for rosacea skin and becomes a potential trigger at exfoliating concentrations (20%). Because everybody's skin is unique, we recommend a patch test if you are unsure.
Learn more about Citric AcidThis small molecule peptide has similar benefits to Argireline, the "botox" peptide.
According to the manufacturer, this peptide mimics snake venom to freeze muscles. This prevents muscle movement and contractions to prohibit the formation of fine lines and wrinkles.
While this seems promising, research is lacking in proving this ingredient to be as effective as botox.
Learn more about Dipeptide Diaminobutyroyl Benzylamide DiacetateEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinHydrogenated Lecithin is a more stable version of lecithin.
It's made by taking lecithin (a phospholipid commonly found in soybeans and egg yolks) and hydrogenating it. This just means the unsaturated fatty acids are turned into saturated ones so they don't go bad as easily.
This ingredient is an emollient, emulsifier, and penetration enhancer. As an emollient, it helps soften and hydrate skin by trapping moisture within. As an emulsifier, it prevents oil and water ingredients from separating.
Hydrogenated Lecithin can form tiny spherical structures made of phospholipid bilayers called liposomes. These liposomes are able to capture compounds inside their structure and deliver them through the skin barrier.
Because phospholipids are a natural component of our cell membranes, this ingredient is inherently compatible with skin.
A 2021 study found lecithin-based surfactants were less harsh and more tolerable comared to Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS).
Learn more about Hydrogenated LecithinLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate is a natural preservative. It comes from fermenting radish roots with a bacteria called leuconostoc. The trade name for this ingredient is Leucidal.
Leuconostoc comes from lactic acid.
This ingredient has antimicrobial properties and helps prevent the growth of bacteria in a product.
Leuconostoc is used to make the traditional Korean side-dish, kimchi. It is also used to make sourdough bread (both incredibly yummy foods).
Learn more about Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment FiltrateThis peptide is more commonly known as Leuphasyl. It has similar properties to argireline, the "botox peptide".
According to a manufacturer, Pentapeptide-18 mimics botulinum to freeze muscles and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. Their study found this 5% of this ingredient reduced wrinkles by 11%.
Combining this ingredient with Argireline showed improved results.
Learn more about Pentapeptide-18Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Propanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about Propanediolsh-Oligopeptide-1 is a peptide found naturally in our bodies. Peptides are the building blocks for collagen and elastin in our skin.
In cosmetics, this ingredient is bioengineered to be identical to a human gene that codes for epidermal growth factor (EGF). EGF are signal molecules that simulate cell growth and healing.
Studies find EGF help with:
In South Korea and China, EGF is considered a controversial ingredient. The South Korean Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has cracked down on companies with products including EGF due to false advertisement claims.
According to Dr. Zoe Draelos, growth factors have some drawbacks:
There is also controversy surrounding growth factors. The controversy is due to their mitogenic activity, or their ability to increase the number of cells. It is best to avoid using growth factors if you have psoriasis or are at risk of skin cancer. However, it should be noted EGF are not mutagenic - meaning they will not cause cancer.
Learn more about Sh-Oligopeptide-1Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum