What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Collagen Extract
Skin ProtectingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantSqualane
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingPropylene Glycol Dicaprylate
EmollientArachidyl Alcohol
EmollientSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantSh-Oligopeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Oligopeptide-2
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-1
Skin ConditioningSh-Polypeptide-2
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantCalendula Officinalis Flower Water
MaskingRosa Centifolia Flower Water
Skin ConditioningDaucus Carota Sativa Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSophora Angustifolia Root Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate
Skin ConditioningChamomilla Recutita Flower Extract
MaskingTriticum Vulgare Germ Protein
EmollientHippophae Rhamnoides Water
MaskingCitrus Aurantifolia Fruit Water
Skin ConditioningMorus Alba Bark Extract
Skin ConditioningMalus Domestica Fruit Extract
AntioxidantPortulaca Oleracea Extract
Skin ConditioningEuterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract
Chenopodium Quinoa Extract
Skin ConditioningPadina Pavonica Extract
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingTrehalose
HumectantCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Cetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingArachidyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingPropanediol Dicaprylate
EmollientHydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientPropanediol
SolventGlyceryl Caprylate
EmollientBetaine
HumectantEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingSesamum Indicum Seed Oil
EmollientOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningWater, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Hydrolyzed Collagen Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Squalane, 1,2-Hexanediol, Niacinamide, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Arachidyl Alcohol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Sh-Oligopeptide-1, Sh-Oligopeptide-2, Sh-Polypeptide-1, Sh-Polypeptide-2, Panthenol, Beta-Glucan, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Calendula Officinalis Flower Water, Rosa Centifolia Flower Water, Daucus Carota Sativa Root Extract, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, Lactobacillus/Pumpkin Fruit Ferment Filtrate, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract, Triticum Vulgare Germ Protein, Hippophae Rhamnoides Water, Citrus Aurantifolia Fruit Water, Morus Alba Bark Extract, Malus Domestica Fruit Extract, Portulaca Oleracea Extract, Euterpe Oleracea Fruit Extract, Chenopodium Quinoa Extract, Padina Pavonica Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Trehalose, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Behenyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Glucoside, Arachidyl Glucoside, Sorbitan Olivate, Propanediol Dicaprylate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Propanediol, Glyceryl Caprylate, Betaine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Adenosine
Panax Ginseng Root Water
MaskingPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButylene Glycol
HumectantAlcohol
AntimicrobialCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientWater
Skin ConditioningVelvet Extract
HumectantButylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
EmollientHydrogenated Polydecene
EmollientPropanediol
SolventButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningGanoderma Lucidum Extract
Skin ProtectingStearic Acid
CleansingPalmitic Acid
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Behenyl Alcohol
EmollientHydrogenated Vegetable Oil
EmollientMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientDipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPhellinus Baumii Mycelium/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Extract Filtrate
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCI 77480
Cosmetic ColorantPanax Ginseng Cell Culture Extract
Skin ConditioningZingiber Officinale Root Extract
MaskingPoria Cocos Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingTriticum Vulgare Flour Extract
Skin ConditioningSesamum Indicum Seed Oil
EmollientHoney Extract
HumectantCoptis Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSh-Octapeptide-4
AntioxidantHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract
EmollientDextrin
AbsorbentCitric Acid
BufferingDimethicone
EmollientGlyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
HumectantBeeswax
Emulsion StabilisingPolyacrylate-13
Tocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPolyisobutene
Arginine
MaskingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingMica
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantCI 77489
Cosmetic ColorantAdenosine
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeChlorphenesin
AntimicrobialCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingPanax Ginseng Root Water, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Glycerin, Butylene Glycol, Alcohol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Water, Velvet Extract, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Propanediol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Ganoderma Lucidum Extract, Stearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Cetearyl Olivate, Behenyl Alcohol, Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Dipentaerythrityl Hexahydroxystearate/Hexastearate/Hexarosinate, Panthenol, Phellinus Baumii Mycelium/Panax Ginseng Root Ferment Extract Filtrate, Sorbitan Olivate, CI 77480, Panax Ginseng Cell Culture Extract, Zingiber Officinale Root Extract, Poria Cocos Extract, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Triticum Vulgare Flour Extract, Sesamum Indicum Seed Oil, Honey Extract, Coptis Japonica Root Extract, Sh-Octapeptide-4, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Glycyrrhiza Uralensis Extract, Dextrin, Citric Acid, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Acrylate/Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Beeswax, Polyacrylate-13, Tocopheryl Acetate, Polyisobutene, Arginine, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Mica, CI 77891, CI 77489, Adenosine, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum
Reviews
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineBehenyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol (these are different from the drying, solvent alcohols).
Fatty Alcohols have hydrating properties and are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product. They are usually derived from natural fats and oils; behenyl alcohol is derived from the fats of vegetable oils.
Emollients help keep your skin soft and hydrated by creating a film that traps moisture in.
In 2000, Behenyl Alcohol was approved by the US as medicine to reduce the duration of cold sores.
Learn more about Behenyl AlcoholCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateCetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient ester. It comes from cetearyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid.
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate is an emollient that adds a velvety feel to skin without being greasy or oily. Emollients help trap moisture into your skin, keeping your skin soft and hydrated.
Ethylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolPropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSesamum Indicum Seed Oil is the cold-pressed oil from sesame seeds.
It is an emollient and skin conditioning agent made up of roughly 82-85% unsaturated fatty acids, mostly linoleic (~41%) and oleic acid (~39%).
This pairing gives it barrier-supporting and moisturizing properties. Linoleic acid, an essential omega-6 fatty acid, can be incorporated into complex skin lipids. Topical application has shown barrier repair, anti-inflammatory, and wound-healing effects in cell and animal studies.
Beyond fatty acids, sesame oil brings something more distinctive to the table:
It contains natural antioxidants sesamol, sesamolin, and gamma-tocopherol. These also give the oil notably high oxidative stability.
One of the oil's key lignans, sesamin, has also demonstrated anti-inflammatory activity in preclinical models.
A 2023 clinical study found that a single application of sesame seed oil to the forearms of 35 healthy women improved stratum corneum hydration (though it didn't outperform raspberry seed oil).
The comedogenic rating of 1-3 depends on the type of sesame oil; unrefined carries a rating of 3 while refined sesame oil drops to a 1.
This ingredient may not be safe for fungal acne as it contains fatty acids that can feed Malassezia.
Learn more about Sesamum Indicum Seed OilSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water