IT Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Brightening Eye Cream Versus Avène Physiolift Smoothing Regenerating Night Balm for Ageing Skin
What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Dimethicone
Emollient
Niacinamide
Smoothing
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
PEG-40 Stearate
Emulsifying
Palmitic Acid
Emollient
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Polysorbate 60
Emulsifying
Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
Emollient
Cetyl Ethylhexanoate
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer
Emulsion StabilisingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Acetyl Hexapeptide-8
Humectant
Copper Gluconate
Skin Conditioning
Collagen
Moisturising
Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate
Cleansing
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin Conditioning
Copper Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Biotin
AntiseborrhoeicCaffeine
Skin Conditioning
Magnesium Aspartate
Skin ConditioningZinc Gluconate
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
Antioxidant
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingCeramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide AP
Skin Conditioning
Phytosphingosine
Skin Conditioning
Cholesterol
Emollient
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCeramide EOP
Skin Conditioning
Retinol
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
Emollient
Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract
Masking
Curcuma Longa Root Extract
Masking
Squalane
Emollient
Spirulina Platensis Extract
Skin ProtectingAlgae Extract
EmollientCucumis Sativus Fruit Extract
Emollient
Colloidal Oatmeal
Absorbent
Propylene Glycol
Humectant
Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
Bleaching
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
Antimicrobial
Lecithin
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Creatine
Skin ConditioningSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract
Skin Protecting
Maris Aqua
HumectantPanthenol
Skin Conditioning
Polyglutamic Acid
Skin Conditioning
Methionine
Skin ConditioningLysine
Skin ConditioningLeucine
Skin ConditioningHistidine
Humectant
Isoleucine
Skin ConditioningArginine
Masking
Disodium EDTA
Polyacrylate-13
Polyisobutene
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Sorbitan Isostearate
Emulsifying
Tromethamine
BufferingSorbitan Stearate
Emulsifying
Benzophenone-5
UV Absorber
Cholesteryl Nonanoate
EmollientCholesteryl Isostearate
EmollientCholesteryl Chloride
Skin ConditioningPhenylalanine
Masking
Threonine
Valine
MaskingSaccharide Isomerate
Humectant
Tryptophan
MaskingElaeis Guineensis Butter
Emollient
Sorbitol
Humectant
Polysilicone-11
Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer
Skin Conditioning
Phenyl Trimethicone
Skin Conditioning
Citric Acid
Buffering
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Caprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Ethylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningChlorphenesin
Antimicrobial
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
CI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Dimethicone, Niacinamide, Cetearyl Alcohol, PEG-40 Stearate, Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Polysorbate 60, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Cetyl Ethylhexanoate, Glyceryl Stearate, Glycerin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Carbomer, Sodium Hyaluronate, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Copper Gluconate, Collagen, Tea-Cocoyl Glutamate, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Copper Tripeptide-1, Biotin, Caffeine, Magnesium Aspartate, Zinc Gluconate, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Xanthan Gum, Ceramide EOP, Retinol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Squalane, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Algae Extract, Cucumis Sativus Fruit Extract, Colloidal Oatmeal, Propylene Glycol, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Lecithin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Creatine, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Vaccinium Angustifolium Fruit Extract, Maris Aqua, Panthenol, Polyglutamic Acid, Methionine, Lysine, Leucine, Histidine, Isoleucine, Arginine, Disodium EDTA, Polyacrylate-13, Polyisobutene, Polysorbate 20, Sorbitan Isostearate, Tromethamine, Sorbitan Stearate, Benzophenone-5, Cholesteryl Nonanoate, Cholesteryl Isostearate, Cholesteryl Chloride, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Valine, Saccharide Isomerate, Tryptophan, Elaeis Guineensis Butter, Sorbitol, Polysilicone-11, Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Phenyl Trimethicone, Citric Acid, Alcohol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Chlorphenesin, Potassium Sorbate, CI 42090
Water
Skin ConditioningIsohexadecane
EmollientDimethicone
Emollient
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Cetyl Alcohol
Emollient
Glycerin
Humectant
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
PEG-100 Stearate
1,2-Hexanediol
Skin Conditioning
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract
Skin ConditioningBHT
Antioxidant
Ceteareth-33
CleansingDimethicone Crosspolymer
Emulsion Stabilising
Disodium EDTA
Parfum
Masking
Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone
Antioxidant
Methyldihydrojasmonate
MaskingPvp
Emulsion StabilisingCI 17200
Cosmetic ColorantRetinal
Skin Conditioning
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Isohexadecane, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, BHT, Ceteareth-33, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Disodium EDTA, Parfum, Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, Methyldihydrojasmonate, Pvp, CI 17200, Retinal, Sodium Hyaluronate, Xanthan Gum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping the skin prevent moisture loss.
It helps thicken a product's formula and makes it easier to spread by dissolving clumping compounds.
Caprylic Triglyceride is made by combining glycerin with coconut oil, forming a clear liquid. Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. It is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid. In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Be sure to patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholDimethicone is a type of synthetic silicone created from natural materials such as quartz. It is also known as polydimethylsiloxane.
What it does:
Dimethicone comes in different viscosities:
Depending on the viscosity, dimethicone has different properties.
Ingredients lists don't always show which type is used, so we recommend reaching out to the brand if you have questions about the viscosity.
This ingredient is unlikely to cause irritation because it does not get absorbed into skin. However, people with silicone allergies should be careful about using this ingredient.
Note: Dimethicone may contribute to pilling. This is because it is not oil or water soluble, so pilling may occur when layered with products. When mixed with heavy oils in a formula, the outcome is also quite greasy.
Learn more about DimethiconeDisodium EDTA is a chelating agent. It grabs onto and deactivates metal ions that sneak into your products from water, packaging, or air.
This ingredient mainly works behind the scenes and helps with:
On top of that, this ingredient can counteract the effects of hard water by binding to the minerals in it.
One thing worth knowing is that Disodium EDTA has been shown to be a mild penetration enhancer. It can help other ingredients absorb into skin more effectively which can be a double-edged sword (great for actives, but can also make the active too strong if you have sensitive skin).
Clinical patch testing showed no significant skin irritation at typical use concentrations and minimal dermal absorption.
You'll most likely see this ingredient near the end of an ingredient list. It's typically found in concentrations less than 1%.
Learn more about Disodium EDTAGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearateSodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is a long sugar chain that is naturally found in your skin, joints, and connective tissue that maintains hydration and elasticity.
In skincare, it works as a humectant. It pulls water from the environment and deeper layers of skin and binds it to the surface.
Interestingly, the size of the molecule affects its behavior:
Some clinical evidence links low molecular weight versions to improved wrinkle depth, elasticity, anti-inflammatory effects, and barrier repair.
Many serums use a blend of both weights so you can get surface hydration plus longer-lasting and deeper effects.
You'll typically see concentrations between 0.1-2% for this ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium HyaluronateTocopheryl Acetate is AKA Vitamin E. It is an antioxidant and protects your skin from free radicals. Free radicals damage the skin by breaking down collagen.
One study found using Tocopheryl Acetate with Vitamin C decreased the number of sunburned cells.
Tocopheryl Acetate is commonly found in both skincare and dietary supplements.
Learn more about Tocopheryl AcetateWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
