What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
EmollientCarthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil
MaskingPolyethylene
AbrasiveMacadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil
EmollientPEG-8 Isostearate
EmulsifyingButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantWater
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantGlyceryl Linolenate
EmollientBeta-Sitosterol
Emulsion StabilisingCeteth-24
CleansingCholesterol
EmollientGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientCholeth-24
EmulsifyingPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingNiacinamide
SmoothingSqualane
EmollientPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Arachidonate
EmollientPropylene Glycol
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAvena Sativa Kernel Extract
AbrasiveUbiquinone
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin ConditioningPhytosphingosine
Skin ConditioningCurcuma Longa Root Extract
MaskingPalmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningDisteardimonium Hectorite
StabilisingPropylene Carbonate
SolventPalmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Skin ConditioningXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
Skin ConditioningAcetyl Hexapeptide-8
HumectantCeramide Eos
Skin ConditioningMelaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil
AntioxidantSodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantRetinyl Palmitate
Skin ConditioningPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingSilica
AbrasiveHyaluronic Acid
HumectantGlycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract
BleachingHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientChamomilla Recutita Flower Water
MaskingColloidal Oatmeal
AbsorbentLeuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate
AntimicrobialBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicOctyldodecanol
EmollientHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingCarbomer
Emulsion StabilisingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingSodium Lactate
BufferingLecithin
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate
EmollientCyclomethicone
EmollientDimethicone
EmollientParaffinum Liquidum
EmollientCitrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingDisodium EDTA
Caprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
Preservative1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingAlcohol
AntimicrobialEthylhexyl Palmitate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Carthamus Tinctorius Seed Oil, Polyethylene, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, PEG-8 Isostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Water, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Linolenate, Beta-Sitosterol, Ceteth-24, Cholesterol, Glyceryl Linoleate, Choleth-24, Polysorbate 20, Niacinamide, Squalane, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Propylene Glycol, Panthenol, Avena Sativa Kernel Extract, Ubiquinone, Ceramide NP, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Propylene Carbonate, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12, Xanthan Gum, Copper Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4, Acetyl Hexapeptide-8, Ceramide Eos, Melaleuca Alternifolia Leaf Oil, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Retinyl Palmitate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Silica, Hyaluronic Acid, Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Chamomilla Recutita Flower Water, Colloidal Oatmeal, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Biotin, Octyldodecanol, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Carbomer, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Sodium Lactate, Lecithin, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Cyclomethicone, Dimethicone, Paraffinum Liquidum, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis Oil, Citric Acid, Disodium EDTA, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Parfum, Alcohol
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
EmollientPolyethylene
AbrasivePEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate
EmollientButyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativePEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
EmulsifyingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingOctyldodecanol
EmollientPPG-26-Buteth-26
Skin ConditioningTrihydroxystearin
Skin ConditioningCI 42090
Cosmetic ColorantPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingCI 19140
Cosmetic ColorantWater
Skin ConditioningSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantGlucomannan
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingEthylhexyl Palmitate, Polyethylene, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Phenoxyethanol, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Caprylyl Glycol, Tocopherol, Polysorbate 20, Octyldodecanol, PPG-26-Buteth-26, Trihydroxystearin, CI 42090, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, CI 19140, Water, Sodium Hyaluronate, Glucomannan, Citric Acid
Alternatives
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid or alcohol, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidEthylhexyl Palmitate, also known as octyl palmitate, is created from 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and palmitic acid. It is a fatty acid ester.
The fatty acid content of Ethylhexyl Palmitate makes it an emollient. Emollients help soften and hydrate your skin by trapping moisture within.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate is also used to help improve the texture of cosmetics. It helps other ingredient dissolve in products and help disperse ingredients more evenly.
You'll likely find this ingredient in sunscreen, as it is often used to mix UV-blocking ingredients such as avobenzone and ethylhexyl triazone.
It can also help stabilize the fragrances in a product as a fragrance fixative.
Ethylhexyl Palmitate can be used to substitute mineral oil.
Due to its high fatty acid content, it may not be fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about Ethylhexyl PalmitateOctyldodecanol is a fatty alcohol sourced from plant oils like coconut or palm (or made synthetically).
It is:
You'll likely see this in many BHA products because this is the go-to solvent for salicylic acid.
This ingredient is typically used at levels between 2-20%.
Regarding fungal acne:
In 2019, this ingredient was tested against multiple Malassezia species (the yeast that causes fungal acne) and showed no growth.
Peg-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate comes from Isostearic Acid and glycerin.
It is an emollient, emulsifier, and gentle cleanser. As an emollient, it helps trap moisture to keep skin soft and hydrated. Emulsifiers help prevent ingredients from separating.
This ingredient is common in oil-based products. This is because it helps oil-ingredients be easily washed away without leaving a residue.
Peg-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate may not be fungal-acne safe.
Learn more about PEG-20 Glyceryl TriisostearatePeg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is derived from castor oil and polyethylene glycol (PEG). It is used as a emollient and emulsifier.
As an emulsifier, it helps prevent ingredients from separating. It also helps make the other ingredients more soluble; it is often used to solubilize fragrances. This increases spreadability and elongates shelf life in a product.
Emollients help soothe and soften the skin. They do this by creating a protective film on your skin. This barrier helps trap moisture and keeps your skin hydrated. Emollients may be effective at treating dry or itchy skin.
This ingredient may or may not be vegan, depending on the source.
Peg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil may not be fungal-acne safe. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have any questions or concerns.
Learn more about PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor OilPhenoxyethanol is a preservative that has germicide, antimicrobial, and aromatic properties. Studies show that phenoxyethanol can prevent microbial growth. By itself, it has a scent that is similar to that of a rose.
It's often used in formulations along with Caprylyl Glycol to preserve the shelf life of products.
Polyethylene is a synthetic ingredient that helps the skin retain moisture. It is a polymer.
It is also typically used within product formulations to help bind solid ingredients together and thicken oil-based ingredients. When added to balms and emulsions, it helps increase the melting point temperature.
Polysorbate 20 is a gentle, water-soluble emulsifier and mild surfactant. It stops oil and water from separating to keep your formulas blended and stable.
It also acts as a mild penetration enhancer by helping active ingredients absorb slightly better.
The common safety discussion around this ingredient involves a manufacturing byproduct called 1,4-dioxane.
Trace amounts can form during production but the EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety has concluded that levels at/below 10 ppm in finished products are safe (commercial products consistently fall within acceptable margins).
True allergic reactions are uncommon and the CIR Expert Panel has confirmed this ingredient to be safe as used in cosmetics.
Because it is derived from lauric acid, it may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Polysorbate 20Water. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water