What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningAloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Skin ConditioningDiisooctyl Succinate
EmollientTheobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter
Skin ConditioningDiisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate
EmollientPropanediol
SolventLimnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningHydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate
EmollientHydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Palmitate
EmollientSorbitan Palmitate
EmulsifyingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantPiperonyl Glucoside
Skin ProtectingGlycerin
HumectantLecithin
EmollientCaffeine
Skin ConditioningPalmitoyl Carnitine
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract
Emulsion StabilisingGeranium Maculatum Extract
TonicEquisetum Arvense Extract
AstringentHamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract
Skin ConditioningTaraxacum Officinale Extract
Skin ConditioningPropolis Extract
Skin ConditioningCamellia Sinensis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialCentella Asiatica Extract
CleansingOryza Sativa Bran Extract
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialHelianthus Annuus Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Extract
AbrasiveTamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide
Skin ConditioningLavandula Angustifolia Oil
MaskingCitric Acid
BufferingSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
Masking1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientLonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
PerfumingLonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Diisooctyl Succinate, Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter, Diisopropyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Propanediol, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate, Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Cetearyl Olivate, Sorbitan Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Sorbitan Oleate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Piperonyl Glucoside, Glycerin, Lecithin, Caffeine, Palmitoyl Carnitine, Hydrolyzed Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Extract, Geranium Maculatum Extract, Equisetum Arvense Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Bark/Leaf/Twig Extract, Taraxacum Officinale Extract, Propolis Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Centella Asiatica Extract, Oryza Sativa Bran Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Tocopherol, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Extract, Tamarindus Indica Seed Polysaccharide, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Citric Acid, Sclerotium Gum, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate, 1,2-Hexanediol, Caprylyl Glycol, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Water
Skin ConditioningNiacinamide
SmoothingEthylhexyl Olivate
Skin ConditioningJojoba Esters
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantCetearyl Olivate
Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate
EmollientSodium Lactate
BufferingSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientPolyglycerin-6
HumectantCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientButylene Glycol
HumectantMagnesium Gluconate
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingHeptapeptide-7
Skin ConditioningNicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76
Skin ConditioningEragrostis Tef Seed Extract
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningCarnosine
Skin ConditioningAminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate
AntioxidantCitrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningLens Esculenta Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningEpigallocatechin Gallate
AntioxidantPyrus Malus Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin ConditioningLinoleic Acid
CleansingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantLinolenic Acid
CleansingSqualane
EmollientSodium PCA
HumectantTremella Fuciformis Extract
HumectantTocopherol
AntioxidantCetyl Palmitate
EmollientSorbitan Palmitate
EmulsifyingCetyl Alcohol
EmollientPentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
AntioxidantSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingPropanediol
SolventSilica
AbrasiveC9-12 Alkane
SolventPullulan
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingTriheptanoin
Skin ConditioningSclerotium Gum
Emulsion StabilisingSorbitan Oleate
EmulsifyingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningAmmonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
Emulsion StabilisingMyristyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientCalcium Gluconate
HumectantPolyurethane-10
Lecithin
EmollientGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeSodium Benzoate
MaskingPhytic Acid
Potassium Sorbate
PreservativeCitric Acid
BufferingSodium Hydroxide
BufferingWater, Niacinamide, Ethylhexyl Olivate, Jojoba Esters, Glycerin, Cetearyl Olivate, Isocetyl Stearoyl Stearate, Sodium Lactate, Sorbitan Olivate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglycerin-6, Cetearyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Magnesium Gluconate, Arginine, Heptapeptide-7, Nicotiana Benthamiana Hexapeptide-40 Sh-Polypeptide-76, Eragrostis Tef Seed Extract, Adenosine, Carnosine, Aminopropyl Ascorbyl Phosphate, Citrullus Lanatus Fruit Extract, Lens Esculenta Fruit Extract, Epigallocatechin Gallate, Pyrus Malus Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Sodium Hyaluronate, Linoleic Acid, Tocopheryl Acetate, Linolenic Acid, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Tremella Fuciformis Extract, Tocopherol, Cetyl Palmitate, Sorbitan Palmitate, Cetyl Alcohol, Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Propanediol, Silica, C9-12 Alkane, Pullulan, Xanthan Gum, Triheptanoin, Sclerotium Gum, Sorbitan Oleate, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, Myristyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Calcium Gluconate, Polyurethane-10, Lecithin, Gluconolactone, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Phytic Acid, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Sodium Hydroxide
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Cetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholCetearyl Olivate is a plant-derived emulsifier and texture enhancer. It helps keep the oil and water phases from separating so your formulas stay stable.
You'll likely see it combined with Sorbitan Olivate (together sold as the trade name Olivem 1000). This combination generates a liquid crystal structure that closely resemble the lipid organization of the stratum corneum.
These "skin-like" liquid crystals improve skin barrier integrity and promote the delivery of actives into the skin.
This ingredient is well-tolerated and has no significant sensitization data.
Because it is derived from the fatty acids in olive oil, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl OlivateCetyl Palmitate is a wax-ester that pulls triple duty as an emollient, thickener, and emulsion enhancer.
It helps enhance the texture of products by giving a smooth, silky feel while helping to stabilize the formula. The emollient action softens skin and reduces moisture loss.
This ingredient is considered safe and human testing of concentrations between 2.5-2.7% were found minimal irritation. Just know, there have been very rare cases of the palmitate family causing contact dermatitis.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because it contains a C16 ester (palmitic acid) that falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can feed on.
Learn more about Cetyl PalmitateCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Depending on the source of this ingredient, lecithin may not be fungal acne safe. This is because some sources of lecithin come from soybean oil, which may feed the malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
We recommend reaching out to the brand you are purchasing from to inquire about the source of their lecithin.
Learn more about LecithinPotassium Sorbate is a preservative used to prevent yeast and mold in products. It is commonly found in both cosmetic and food products.
This ingredient comes from potassium salt derived from sorbic acid. Sorbic acid is a natural antibiotic and effective against fungus.
Both potassium sorbate and sorbic acid can be found in baked goods, cheeses, dried meats, dried fruit, ice cream, pickles, wine, yogurt, and more.
You'll often find this ingredient used with other preservatives.
Learn more about Potassium SorbatePropanediol is an all-star ingredient. It softens, hydrates, and smooths the skin.Â
It’s often used to:
Propanediol is not likely to cause sensitivity and considered safe to use. It is derived from corn or petroleum with a clear color and no scent.
Learn more about PropanediolSclerotium Gum is a polysaccharide gum made by the fungus, Sclerotium rolfssii. It is similar to xanthan gum.
In cosmetics, Sclerotium Gum is used to thicken the texture and to help stabilize other ingredients.
As an emulsifier, Sclerotium Gum helps prevent ingredients from separating, such as water and oil.
Learn more about Sclerotium GumSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateSorbitan Oleate is a PEG-free emulsifier made by esterifying sorbitol with oleic acid.
You'll likely see it paired with Polysorbate 80 to create the right emulsification balance.
Typical use levels in formulas range from 2-10%.
The CIR Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as a cosmetic ingredient.
Since this ingredient is an ester of oleic acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. Oleic acid is a fatty acid that falls into the C11-24 range that Malassezia can metabolize.
Learn more about Sorbitan OleateSorbitan Olivate is created from the fatty acids in olive oil and sorbitol.
This ingredient is an oil in water emulsifier. It helps stabilize a product by preventing oils and waters from separating. Sorbitan Olivate also helps hydrate the skin.
This ingredient is also known as part of Olivem 1000, with Cetearyl Olivate being the other part.
According to a manufacturer, this ingredient helps preserve the natural microbiome of skin. Having a healthy microbiome helps keep our skin healthy and protects against harmful bacteria.
Please note, having a healthy microbiome is different from fungal acne; a healthy microbiome includes small amounts of yeast that normally live on your skin without causing problems.
Fungal acne happens when one type of yeast (Malassezia) grows out of control. This is usually because it's feeding on certain oils or fatty acids. Due to the olive oil base, this ingredient may not be fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Sorbitan OlivateSorbitan Palmitate is an emulsifier.
It is created by reacting sorbitol with palmitic acid.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water