What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Isododecane
EmollientIsohexadecane
EmollientC9-12 Alkane
SolventSqualane
EmollientHydrogenated Polyisobutene
EmollientC13-15 Alkane
SolventDicaprylyl Ether
EmollientDicaprylyl Carbonate
EmollientParfum
MaskingTocopheryl Acetate
AntioxidantPlukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil
EmollientTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientPersea Gratissima Oil
Skin ConditioningRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil
MaskingMentha Arvensis Leaf Oil
MaskingMentha Piperita Oil
MaskingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingWater
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantDipropylene Glycol
HumectantLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningInulin
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningIris Pallida Root Extract
MaskingYeast Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingSerine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingNicotinamide Mononucleotide
AntioxidantSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium DNA
Skin ConditioningCholesterol
EmollientAspartic Acid
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAmmonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer
Phenoxyethanol
PreservativeAlanine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingThreonine
Valine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningSodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingHistidine
HumectantCysteine
AntioxidantMethionine
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialPlatycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract
AntioxidantSorbitan Stearate
EmulsifyingBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningSodium Citrate
BufferingCollagen
MoisturisingTromethamine
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingLimonene
PerfumingHydroxycitronellal
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingIsododecane, Isohexadecane, C9-12 Alkane, Squalane, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, C13-15 Alkane, Dicaprylyl Ether, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Parfum, Tocopheryl Acetate, Plukenetia Volubilis Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil, Persea Gratissima Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Oil, Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil, Mentha Piperita Oil, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Water, Glycerin, Dipropylene Glycol, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Inulin, Butylene Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Iris Pallida Root Extract, Yeast Extract, Glycine, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Nicotinamide Mononucleotide, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Sodium DNA, Cholesterol, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Caprylyl Glycol, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Vp Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Alanine, Lysine, Beta-Glucan, Arginine, Sodium Chloride, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Sodium Benzoate, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ferulic Acid, Platycodon Grandiflorus Root Extract, Sorbitan Stearate, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Sodium Citrate, Collagen, Tromethamine, Citric Acid, Limonene, Hydroxycitronellal, Citronellol, Linalool, Hexyl Cinnamal, Geraniol
Water
Skin ConditioningAlcohol Denat.
AntimicrobialNiacinamide
SmoothingDiethoxyethyl Succinate
SolventDipropylene Glycol
HumectantPanthenol
Skin ConditioningAdenosine
Skin ConditioningPEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
EmulsifyingEscin
TonicMenthol
MaskingGluconolactone
Skin ConditioningClimbazole
AntimicrobialButylene Glycol
HumectantGlycerin
HumectantCetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingSodium Citrate
BufferingCitric Acid
BufferingPiroctone Olamine
PreservativeBetaine
HumectantSalicylic Acid
MaskingTrehalose
HumectantRosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract
AntimicrobialBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicFerulic Acid
AntimicrobialSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantLactococcus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningInulin
Skin ConditioningTocopherol
AntioxidantGlycine Soja Oil
EmollientDisodium Phosphate
BufferingSodium Phosphate
BufferingPEG-Crosspolymer
Caffeine
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningScutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract
AstringentCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingYeast Extract
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingHouttuynia Cordata Extract
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingSodium Ascorbate
AntioxidantSerine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
Skin ConditioningEucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract
PerfumingAspartic Acid
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeRetinol
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingSodium Chloride
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingProline
Skin ConditioningThreonine
Valine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin ConditioningHistidine
HumectantCysteine
AntioxidantMethionine
Skin ConditioningChamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningBifida Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment Lysate
Skin ConditioningParfum
MaskingHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingLinalool
PerfumingCitral
PerfumingCitronellol
PerfumingGeraniol
PerfumingWater, Alcohol Denat., Niacinamide, Diethoxyethyl Succinate, Dipropylene Glycol, Panthenol, Adenosine, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Escin, Menthol, Gluconolactone, Climbazole, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Cetyl Hydroxyethylcellulose, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Piroctone Olamine, Betaine, Salicylic Acid, Trehalose, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Biotin, Ferulic Acid, Sodium Hyaluronate, Lactococcus Ferment Lysate, Inulin, Tocopherol, Glycine Soja Oil, Disodium Phosphate, Sodium Phosphate, PEG-Crosspolymer, Caffeine, Ceramide NP, Pentylene Glycol, Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Yeast Extract, 1,2-Hexanediol, Glycine, Houttuynia Cordata Extract, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Ascorbate, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Extract, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Retinol, Alanine, Lysine, Beta-Glucan, Arginine, Sodium Chloride, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Proline, Threonine, Valine, Isoleucine, Histidine, Cysteine, Methionine, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate, Parfum, Hexyl Cinnamal, Limonene, Linalool, Citral, Citronellol, Geraniol
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
Alanine is an amino acid and is already found in the human body. Our skin uses alanine to build collagen, elastin, and keratin.
Arginine is a semi-essential amino acid. This just means our bodies can product a bit on its own, but sometimes needs a little boost from food sources.
It is a part of your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Here's an interesting thing about Arginine: your skin converts it into urea through the Krebs-Henseleit urea cycle. Urea is one of the most effective humectants your skin naturally produces.
A clinical study showed applying 2.5% arginine hydrochloride to atopic dermatitis skin showed significant urea levels in the stratum corneum and improved moisture in just four weeks.
Arginine is also a precursor to nitric oxide; nitric oxide improves microcirculation and supports wound healing and collagen synthesis.
One study found that an amino acid complex containing Arginine reduced skin irritation, improved hydration, and accelerated skin repair in clinical / in-vivo studies.
Arginine itself is an amino acid and not a fatty acid, oil, or ester. On its own, it's not a direct food source for Malassezia, or the yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about ArginineAspartic Acid is an amino acid that our bodies produce naturally. It is an antioxidant.
Our body uses Aspartic Acid to help build collagen and elastin. It also plays a role in hydrating skin.
Beta-Glucan is a soluble polysaccharide (a chain of glucose sugars) sourced from the cells walls of oats, baker's yeast, mushrooms, and seaweed.
It's a rare ingredient that pulls double-duty as a heavy-duty hydrator and skin-soothing repair agent.
On the surface, it acts as a humectant that holds water in place and reduces moisture loss for a plumper, smoother feel, while its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties make it a great pick for calming redness or sensitive skin
The more interesting story is underneath:
Despite its large molecular size, oat beta-glucan has been shown to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis by slipping between skin cells. Here, it interacts with fibroblasts and macrophages to nudge collagen synthesis and support wound repair.
A small 2005 split-face clinical study of 27 subjects found topical beta-glucan produced measurable reductions in wrinkle depth, height, and roughness after 8 weeks of use.
It is worth noting the trial was small and the penetration testing used frozen, irradiated skin so the anti-aging data is encouraging rather than definitive.
This ingredient gets along with pretty much everything and is typically used around 0.1-1%.
Fungal acne: This ingredient is not a food source for the Malassezia yeast because it is a glucose polysaccharide with no fatty acid or ester component.
Learn more about Beta-GlucanBifida Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic ingredient made by fermenting Bifidobacterium to extract a nutrient-rich mix of peptides, amino acids, vitamins, organic acids, and polysaccharides.
These components are basically the building blocks that your skin already uses to stay hydrated, repair itself, and maintain its barrier. That's why this ingredient helps your skin hold onto moisture and stay resilient against irritation.
One in-vitro study found that this ingredient tells your skin cells to produce more of the proteins (filaggrin, loricrin, and involucrin) for building a strong and healthy barrier. This study also found this ingredient to be a solid antioxidant that helped neutralize damage against UV and pollution.
A study with people from 2010 found that sensitive, reactive skin using a cream with 10% of this ingredient for a month became noticeably less dry, less reactive, and harder to irritate compared to the group using a plain cream.
In short, this ingredient is a well-tolerated ingredient that can help with barrier repair, antioxidant protection, and calming reactive skin.
This ingredient is generally considered fungal acne (Malassezia) safe; Bifidobacterium is a bacterium, not a yeast or fungus.
The fungal acne concern with fermented ingredients mainly applies to yeast-derived ferments like Saccharomyces and Galactomyces, because those are in the same kingdom as Malassezia and could theoretically contain residual compounds that feed it.
Bifida is a completely different organism, so on its own it doesn't provide a food source for the Malassezia yeast that causes fungal acne.
Learn more about Bifida Ferment LysateButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCitric Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) naturally found in citrus fruits like oranges, lemons, and limes.
Like other AHAs, citric acid can exfoliate skin by breaking down the bonds that hold dead skin cells together. This helps reveal smoother and brighter skin underneath.
However, this exfoliating effect only happens at high concentrations (20%) which can be hard to find in cosmetic products.
Due to this, citric acid is usually included in small amounts as a pH adjuster. This helps keep products slightly more acidic and compatible with skin's natural pH.
In skincare formulas, citric acid can:
While it can provide some skin benefits, research shows lactic acid and glycolic acid are generally more effective and less irritating exfoliants.
Most citric acid used in skincare today is made by fermenting sugars (usually from molasses). This synthetic version is identical to the natural citrus form but easier to stabilize and use in formulations.
Read more about some other popular AHA's here:
Learn more about Citric AcidCitronellol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is often derived from plants such as roses. In fact, it can be found in many essential oils including geranium, lavender, neroli, and more. The scent of Citronellol is often described as "fresh, grassy, and citrus-like".
Since the Citronellol molecule is already unstable, Citronellol becomes irritating on the skin when exposed to air.
Citronellol is a modified terpene. Terpenes are unsaturated hydrocarbons found in plants. They make up the primary part of essential oils.
Citronellol is not able to be absorbed into deeper layers of the skin. It has low permeability,
Citronellol is also a natural insect repellent.
Learn more about CitronellolCysteine is a sulfur-containing amino acid that your body naturally makes and uses to build keratin (the protein in your hair, skin, and nails) and gluthatione (a major internal antioxidant).
In skincare, it's mostly added as an antioxidant. Some emerging research is also looking at its role in wound healing + evening out pigmentation though most of the pigmentation data comes from oral supplements rather than topical use).
Typical use concentrations for this ingredient are usually quite low (under 5% in leave-on skincare).
Safety data on cysteine specifically shows it's not a skin or eye irritant.
Learn more about CysteineDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinFerulic Acid is a plant based antioxidant that can be naturally found in the cell walls of grains like rice, oats, and corn. It has antioxidant and antimicrobial properties, and has the ability to boost the performance of other antioxidants as well.
A well-known study found that adding Ferulic Acid to a solution of Vitamins C and E doubled the photoprotection of skin. This is why you'll often see it paired with Vitamin C or Vitamin E serums rather than sold on its own.
A 2025 review of 18 human studies found that using Ferulic Acid (0.5-1%) daily for one to three months showed improvements in:
As far as allergies go, Ferulic acid is generally well-tolerated but can cause an allergic reaction in very rare cases. It's also worth noting that Ferulic acid is often extracted from plant sources like rice bran or wheat bran, so be sure to path test if you have known grain allergies.
Outside of skincare, researchers are also looking into Ferulic Acid for its potential benefits in areas like diabetes, Alzheimer's, and heart health.
Learn more about Ferulic AcidGeraniol is used to add fragrance/parfum to a product. It is the main component of citronellol. It is a monoterpenoid and an alcohol.
Monoterpenes are naturally found in many parts of different plants.
Geraniol can be found in many essential oils including Rose Oil and Citronella Oil. The scent of Geraniol is often described as "rose-like". Many foods also contain Geraniol for fruit flavoring.
Geraniol can irritate the skin when exposed to air. However, irritation depends on the ability of geraniol to penetrate into the skin. In general, geraniol is not able to penetrate skin easily.
Geraniol is colorless and has low water-solubility. However, it is soluble in common organic solvents.
Like citronellol, it is a natural insect repellent.
2,6-Octadien-1-ol, 3,7-dimethyl-, (2E)-
Learn more about GeraniolGlutamic Acid is an amino acid that is found in all living organisms. Our bodies use this to help nerve cells in the brain communicate with other cells.
In cosmetics, glutamic acid is a famous humectant. It draws water from the air to your skin, keeping your skin hydrated (like hyaluronic acid).
An in-vitro study from 2024 found glutamic acid to play a role in inhibiting inflammation and thus a potential skin-soothing ingredient.
Other studies show it to be have potential wound healing, skin barrier repair, and hair growth properties.
Glutamic acid has poor solubility in water and other solvents.
Learn more about Glutamic AcidGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlycine is the smallest amino acid and a key building block of collagen. It's part if your skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
A study from 2022 found that an amino acid complex featuring taurine, arginine, and glycine significantly reduced skin irritation, improved redness, and accelerated the skin repair process.
Glycine Soja Oil is a plant-derived oil from soybean seeds. Like other oils, it is rich in essential fatty acids (mostly linoleic and oleic) that support skin hydration and barrier function.
The fatty acids are able to integrate into the lipid matrix of the stratum corneum to help soften skin and reduce water loss.
On top of that, soybean oil is rich in vitamins like vitamin E, a potent antioxidant.
Research on soybean's active components also point to anti-inflammatory, collagen-stimulating, antioxidant activity, and protection against UV-induced oxidative damage.
Most of this research applies to the broader soybean plant and not just the oil fraction alone.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe due to the oleic acid content.
Learn more about Glycine Soja OilHexyl Cinnamal is a fragrance ingredient with a similar scent to jasmine. It can be naturally found in chamomile essential oil.
This ingredient is a known EU allergen and may sensitize the skin. The EU requires this ingredient to be listed separately on an ingredients list.
Hexyl Cinnamal is not water soluble but is soluble in oils.
Learn more about Hexyl CinnamalHistidine is a semi-essential amino acid used by our bodies to create protein. It has humectant and skin conditioning properties.
Our bodies use histidine to create filaggrin - filaggrin is a structural protein that the skin uses in maintaining skin barrier.
One study found histidine and carnosine to be a dynamic duo for your skin:
Oral histidine has also been found to help with filaggrin-deficit skin disorders such as atopic dermatitis.
Why is it considered a semi-essential amino acid? This is because adults are able to create it but children must get it from their diet.
Learn more about HistidineInulin is a polysaccharide (carbohydrate) with prebiotic and antioxidant properties.
The majority of inulin is extracted from chicory, but can also be obtained from other plants such as garlic, onion, asparagus, and sugarcane.
Studies show inulin may help with controlling your skin's natural microbiota when applied topically.
The antioxidant potential of inulin varies depending on the source.
Learn more about InulinIsoleucine is an amino acid that helps reinforce our skin barrier. This amino acid plays a role in creating protein for the body.
Fun fact: Isoleucine is found in meat, fish, dairy, legumes, and nuts.
Lactobacillus Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic with skin soothing properties. Postbiotics are inactive molecules produced by probiotic bacteria that provide skin benefits.
This ingredient comes from the secretion of the bacteria, Lactobacillus.
Studies show this ingredient can help calm redness and may help treat the signs of photoaging; however, the evidence is inconclusive and further studies are needed.
Lactobacillus Ferment is generally considered safe for fungal-acne prone skin. The key thing to understand is that it comes from bacteria, not yeast or fungus.
Yeast-derived ferments (like galactomyces) have been shown to activate a protein that's linked to Malassezia-related skin issues whereas lactobacillus doesn't have that problem.
Its byproducts also don't contain the types of fatty acids (C11-24 chain lengths) that Malassezia feeds on.
Learn more about Lactobacillus Ferment LysateLactococcus Ferment Lysate is a postbiotic created by fermenting Lactoccus lactis, a type of bacteria more commonly used to create Lactic acid.
Postbiotics are inactive molecules produced by probiotic bacteria that provide skin benefits.
This ingredient offers promising benefits, but it is relatively new and more evidence is needed to prove its efficacy. The manufacturer claims this ingredient:
A study from 2022 found this ingredient helped protect skin against damaged from UV exposure (though this should not replace your sunscreen!).
The lysate in the ingredient name refers to a fluid that forms from breaking down the cell membrane.
Learn more about Lactococcus Ferment LysateLeucine is a small amino acid and one of the building blocks your body uses to make proteins.
It's also naturally found in your skin as part of your Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). Your NMF is a mix of water-binding molecules that keeps the outer skin layer hydrated and flexible.
In skincare, it's mainly used as a skin conditioning ingredient that helps reinforce the same moisture-retention function.
You'll usually see it used at low percentages (generally under 5%) which is in line with how amino acids are used in cosmetics.
Learn more about LeucineLimonene is a fragrance that adds scent and taste to a formulation.
It's found in the peel oil of citrus fruits and other plants such as lavender and eucalyptus. The scent of limonene is generally described as "sweet citrus".
Limonene acts as an antioxidant, meaning it helps neutralize free radicals.
When exposed to air, oxidized limonene may sensitize the skin. Because of this, limonene is often avoided by people with sensitive skin.
The term 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term. For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance.
Learn more about LimoneneLinalool is a fragrance and helps add scent to products. It's derived from common plants such as cinnamon, mint, citrus, and lavender.
Like Limonene, this ingredient oxidizes when exposed to air. Oxidized linalool can cause allergies and skin sensitivity.
This ingredient has a scent that is floral, spicy tropical, and citrus-like.
Learn more about LinaloolLysine is an essential amino acid (your body cannot make it on its own). It has skin conditioning properties and one of the key players in collagen synthesis.
When your body creates collagen, lysine is basically the glue that holds everything together. It helps collagen fibers lock into each other and stay strong, with vitamin C being its trusty sidekick. Without enough lysine, this glue gets flimsy and less firm, resulting in less bouncy skin.
In skincare, lysine is mostly there to help keep your skin moisturized. It carries water through your skin's layers so everything stays plump.
So will putting lysine on your face create bouncier skin?
It's hard to say; most of the exciting collagen research on lysine comes from oral supplements or lab studies on mice. Further research is needed to truly understand what role topical lysine plays in skincare and your skin.
However, there's no harm in adding lysine to your routine as a supportive and hydrating ingredient.
Learn more about LysineMethionine is a natural amino acid your skin already uses to make proteins and gluthatione (one of the body's key defense molecules against environmental stress like sun + pollution).
Its sulfur content makes it especially reactive with the free radicals that damage skin, giving it genuine antioxidant properties.
Usage percentages are usually under 1%, and usually as part of an amino acid mix designed to mimic what's naturally in skin.
One study used a combination of essential amino acids at 0.2% with supplemental methionine added and found significantly boosted collagen production in human skin.
Cosmetic industry reviewers have looked closely at methionine and other amino acids and found them well tolerated. Methionine is actually used as a "negative control" in lab tests designed to spot irritating ingredients because it doesn't cause a reaction.
Learn more about MethionineParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPhenoxyethanol is one of the most widely used preservatives in skincare (and for good reason!).
It has a large spectrum of antimicrobial activity and especially effective bacteria, yeast, and mold while only having a weak effect on your skin's natural microbiome.
On a cellular level, it disrupts the cell membranes of microbes by poking holes that make the cell leak. This shuts down the chemical reactions the microbe needs to make energy so it can no longer survive.
Another perk of this ingredient is that it stays functional across a wide pH range (3-10).
You'll often see it paired with boosters like Ethylhexylglycerin; one study showed that a 1:9 ratio of Ethylhexylglycerin to Phenoxyethanol damages bacterial membranes as effectively as doubling the Phenoxyethanol concentration on its own.
Typical use concentrations range from 0.3-1% depending on the formula, and this ingredient is capped at 1% int the EU.
Safety-wise, the fear mongering does not hold up to the evidence. The EU's Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety and FDA consider it safe as a preservative at up to 1%, including for children of all ages.
Adverse systemic effects only showed up in animal studies at exposures roughly 200x higher than what people get from cosmetics. And despite its very widespread use, this ingredient is a rare sensitizer and allergic reactions are uncommon.
Learn more about PhenoxyethanolPhenylalanine is an amino acid. It is a skin soothing and hydrating ingredient. Amino acids play a crucial role in wound healing and skin hydration.
This ingredient is also used to help even out skin tone due to its ability to disrupt the melanin production process.
Two structures of phenylalanine exist: L-phenylalanine and D-phenylalanine. L-phenylalanine is essential, this means our bodies cannot produce it naturally and we must get it from foods. Our bodies convert D-phenylalanine to neurotransmitters, and D-phenylalanine is found in our bodies naturally.
Some foods that contain L-phenylalanine include eggs, soybeans, beef, milk.
Learn more about PhenylalanineProline is a non-essential amino acid, meaning your body can make it on its own. In skincare, it is a skin conditioning ingredient that keeps skin soft and hydrated.
It makes up about 23% of the collagen molecule (collagen is the protein responsible for keeping your skin firm) and is involved in your skin's natural hyaluronic acid production. When applied topically, proline can penetrate the skin fairly well due to its small molecular size.
Reviews of this ingredient have found it to be neither a dermal irritant nor a sensitizer.
Fun fact: Proline can be found in protein-rich foods like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy.
Learn more about ProlineSaccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract comes from a yeast used in fermentation. It has skin conditioning properties due to its naturally occurring peptides, polysaccharides (including beta-glucans), amino acids, minerals, and vitamins.
Clinical research shows formulas that contain this ingredient can improve moisture levels and refine skin texture over time. This is associate with its ability to reduce free-radical activity and protect the skin against environmental damage.
Lab studies demonstrate that some peptide fractions in this ingredient possess antioxidant and anti-collegenase effects, helping to protect the structural proteins in skin and soothing inflammation.
Additionally, this ingredient has been shown to have antimicrobial effects against bacteria associated with acne.
Learn more about Saccharomyces Cerevisiae ExtractSerine is a non-essential amino acid (your body makes it on its own!). It is a major player in your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the water-loving molecules in your outermost layer of skin (stratum corneum) that keeps everything hydrated and happy.
Serine is one of your NMF's most abundant components that works as a skin-identical humectant. Its hydroxyl group grabs onto water molecules to boost hydration without any heaviness or occlusion.
Research on a hydrogel with serine confirmed this serine got delivered to your stratum corneum and demonstrated enhanced skin moisturization.
Interestingly serine also helps your skin produce filaggrin, a protein that keeps your skin barrier strong and used to create collagen.
Learn more about SerineSodium Benzoate is a preservative. It's used in both cosmetic and food products to inhibit the growth of mold and bacteria. It is typically produced synthetically.
Both the US FDA and EU Health Committee have approved the use of sodium benzoate. In the US, levels of 0.1% (of the total product) are allowed.
Sodium benzoate works as a preservative by inhibiting the growth of bacteria inside of cells. It prevents the cell from fermenting a type of sugar using an enzyme called phosphofructokinase.
It is the salt of benzoic acid. Foods containing sodium benzoate include soda, salad dressings, condiments, fruit juices, wines, and snack foods.
Studies for using ascorbic acid and sodium benzoate in cosmetics are lacking, especially in skincare routines with multiple steps.
We always recommend speaking with a professional, such as a dermatologist, if you have any concerns.
Learn more about Sodium BenzoateChances are, you eat sodium chloride every day. Sodium Chloride is also known as table salt. This ingredient has many purposes in skincare: thickener, emulsifier, and exfoliator.
You'll most likely find this ingredient in cleansers where it is used to create a gel-like texture. As an emulsifier, it also prevents ingredients from separating.
You might see people debate whether Sodium Chloride is comedogenic, but there actually haven't been any comedogenic tests done on it. Either way, the overall formulation of a product matters a lot more than any single ingredient.
You might see this ingredient used in scrubs as a primary exfoliating ingredient.
Learn more about Sodium ChlorideSodium Citrate is the sodium salts of citric acid. In skincare, it is used to alter pH levels and acts as a preservative.
Its main functions are to maintain the pH of a product and neutralize metal ions.
The acidity of our skin is maintained by our glands and skin biome; normal pH level of skin is slightly acidic (~4.75-5.5).
Being slightly acidic allows our skin to create an "acid mantle". This acid mantle is a thin barrier that protects our skin from bacteria and contaminants.
Learn more about Sodium CitrateThreonine is an amino-acid. It helps hydrate the skin and has antioxidant benefits.
Our skin uses threonine for creating collagen and elastin. Humans are not able to create threonine and must get it through eating foods such as fish, lentils, poultry, sesame seeds, and more.
Tocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolTyrosine is one of the amino acids your body already uses as a protein building block. In skincare, it shows up as a skin-conditioning agent.
It's most notable for being the raw material that your skin's tyrosinase enzyme converts into melanin (skin pigment); this is why it's sometimes marketed as a "tan accelerator" in products.
However, the tanning claim is shaky. Lab studies on isolated skin cells show tyrosine can boost melanin production at fairly high concentrations but hasn't shown to speed up/deepen a tan when applied directly to skin in animal studies (up to 0.05%).
Finished cosmetic products use it at low levels (generally well under 1%). At these amounts, it's considered non-irritating and non-sensitizing based on repeat-use patch testing.
Allergy-wise, plain tyrosinase hasn't shown sensitization issues but a chemically modified relative called Oleoyl Tyrosine has had a handful of cases.
Learn more about TyrosineValine is one of the essential amino acids (meaning your body can't make it on its own and has to get it from food).
In skincare, it's usually synthetically-made or pulled from plant proteins like soy.
It's one of the small building blocks that make up your skin's natural moisturizing factor (NMF), or the built-in system that helps skin hold onto water. So its main job in a formula is to give the skin gentle hydration and help it feel more comfortable.
Typical amounts are very tiny: roughly 0.00004%-0.5% in leave on products and up to 1% in rinse-off ones.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel has looked at this ingredient and found no evidence of it being a skin irritant or allergen at cosmetic levels.
Learn more about ValineWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterYeast extract is a silky, clear liquid derived from yeast (usually Saccharomyces cerevisiae or Torula yeast).
This ingredient has plenty of skin benefits:
Bioferments of yeast and soy have been found to reduce hyperpigmentation at low levels.
Yeast extract is fungal acne safe because it's made up of amino acids, peptides, B vitamins, and nucleotides (not the C11-C24 fatty acids that Malassezia needs to thrive).
The "yeast" in the name can be misleading, but FA safety is about chemical composition and not ingredient origin.
Learn more about Yeast Extract