What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningCoco-Caprylate/Caprate
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingButylene Glycol
HumectantOctyldodecyl Myristate
EmollientGlycerin
HumectantButyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract
Skin ConditioningCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientC12-16 Alcohols
EmollientMicrocrystalline Cellulose
AbsorbentVitis Vinifera Seed Oil
EmollientPalmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract
AntioxidantCetearyl Glucoside
EmulsifyingCI 77891
Cosmetic ColorantHydrogenated Lecithin
EmulsifyingPalmitic Acid
EmollientPotassium Cetyl Phosphate
EmulsifyingMica
Cosmetic ColorantCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientPolyacrylate Crosspolymer-6
Emulsion StabilisingBenzyl Alcohol
PerfumingTocopherol
AntioxidantHelianthus Annuus Seed Oil
EmollientXanthan Gum
EmulsifyingHydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
HumectantLecithin
EmollientAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSodium Phytate
Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin ConditioningHyaluronic Acid
HumectantDehydroacetic Acid
PreservativeSilica
AbrasiveKhaya Senegalensis Bark Extract
Skin ProtectingMaltodextrin
AbsorbentTin Oxide
AbrasiveSodium Hydroxide
BufferingPaeonia Lactiflora Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCitric Acid
BufferingParfum
MaskingLinalool
PerfumingLimonene
PerfumingCoumarin
PerfumingWater, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Butylene Glycol, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter Extract, Cetearyl Alcohol, C12-16 Alcohols, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Palmitoyl Grapevine Shoot Extract, Cetearyl Glucoside, CI 77891, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Palmitic Acid, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Mica, Caprylyl Glycol, Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6, Benzyl Alcohol, Tocopherol, Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, Xanthan Gum, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Lecithin, Adenosine, Sodium Phytate, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Hyaluronic Acid, Dehydroacetic Acid, Silica, Khaya Senegalensis Bark Extract, Maltodextrin, Tin Oxide, Sodium Hydroxide, Paeonia Lactiflora Root Extract, Citric Acid, Parfum, Linalool, Limonene, Coumarin
Water
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventGlycerin
HumectantNeopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate
EmollientTriethylhexanoin
MaskingCyclopentasiloxane
EmollientCetearyl Olivate
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Olivate
EmulsifyingCyclohexasiloxane
EmollientCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingArgania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientPolyacrylate-13
Butylene Glycol
HumectantPolyisobutene
Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil
Skin ConditioningOenothera Biennis Oil
EmollientOlea Europaea Fruit Oil
MaskingCoptis Japonica Extract
AntimicrobialHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningCamellia Japonica Seed Oil
EmollientDextrin
AbsorbentTheobroma Cacao Extract
Skin ConditioningPolysorbate 20
EmulsifyingAdenosine
Skin ConditioningSorbitan Isostearate
EmulsifyingDisodium EDTA
Sodium Polyacrylate
AbsorbentSodium Hyaluronate
HumectantAllantoin
Skin ConditioningPanthenol
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Linoleate
EmollientBeta-Glucan
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantHydrolyzed Extensin
Skin ConditioningPrunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningGlyceryl Linolenate
EmollientGlyceryl Arachidonate
EmollientIris Florentina Root Extract
MaskingPhenoxyethanol
PreservativeBiosaccharide Gum-1
HumectantPalmitoyl Tripeptide-5
Skin ConditioningSodium Benzoate
MaskingPotassium Sorbate
PreservativePhosphatidylcholine
EmulsifyingCopper Tripeptide-1
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingGlutamic Acid
HumectantSerine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningAlanine
MaskingArginine
MaskingThreonine
Proline
Skin ConditioningWater, Methylpropanediol, Glycerin, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Triethylhexanoin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cetearyl Olivate, Cetearyl Alcohol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Sorbitan Olivate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyacrylate-13, Butylene Glycol, Polyisobutene, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Coptis Japonica Extract, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Ethylhexylglycerin, Camellia Japonica Seed Oil, Dextrin, Theobroma Cacao Extract, Polysorbate 20, Adenosine, Sorbitan Isostearate, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Polyacrylate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Allantoin, Panthenol, Glyceryl Linoleate, Beta-Glucan, Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Extensin, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Seed Extract, Glyceryl Linolenate, Glyceryl Arachidonate, Iris Florentina Root Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Biosaccharide Gum-1, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-5, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Phosphatidylcholine, Copper Tripeptide-1, Ceramide NP, Glycine, Glutamic Acid, Serine, Lysine, Alanine, Arginine, Threonine, Proline
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Adenosine is a purine nucleoside that your body already makes in every cell. In skincare, it acts mainly as a skin conditioning and anti-aging agent.
The way it works is fairly well mapped out:
Your skin has cells called fibroblasts that build collagen (the stuff that keeps skin firm and smooth). Adenosine basically flips a switch on these cells that tells them to get to work making more collagen and other proteins. These cells slow down on their own as skin ages, so Adenosine helps give them a little nudge to keep going.
The clinical backing is pretty solid too.
A blind, randomized, placebo-controlled trial of 126 women aged 45-65 tested a 0.1% cream twice daily and found real improvements in crow's feet and frown lines using a precise 3D skin-mapping technique; these changes showed up by week 3 and held at 2 months.
A later study using Adenosine-loaded dissolving microneedle patches reported gains in wrinkle depth, dermal density, elasticity, and hydration.
On concentrations, South Korea's Ministry of Food and Drug Safety has set 0.04% as the approved functional anti-wrinkle level. You'll typically see this ingredient used somewhere in the 0.04-0.1% range since it works at low doses.
This ingredient has been found safe for cosmetics with the data showing no irritation or sensitization.
Overall, this is a great ingredient for any anti-aging routine and has no photosensitizing effect, so it suits both AM and PM use.
Learn more about AdenosineButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about Water