What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
Humectant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cyclopentasiloxane
Emollient
Steareth-21
CleansingCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate
AntimicrobialCyclohexasiloxane
Emollient
Steareth-2
EmulsifyingGlyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Polyacrylamide
Butylene Glycol
Humectant
Alcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
C13-14 Isoparaffin
Emollient
Phenoxyethanol
Preservative
Parfum
Masking
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Pentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Ascorbyl Glucoside
Antioxidant
Laureth-7
EmulsifyingPropylene Glycol
Humectant
Sodium Benzoate
Masking
Tocopheryl Acetate
Antioxidant
Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningRetinyl Palmitate
Skin Conditioning
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Humectant
Hydrolyzed Rice Protein
Skin ConditioningTetrasodium EDTA
Sorbitan Laurate
Emulsifying
Polysorbate 20
Emulsifying
Panax Ginseng Root Extract
Emollient
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
EmulsifyingPhyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract
HumectantCarbomer
Emulsion Stabilising3-Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid
SurfactantCalcium Hydroxymethionine
Skin ConditioningHydroxyethylcellulose
Emulsion StabilisingDimethylmethoxy Chromanol
Antioxidant
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingAcetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester
Skin Conditioning
Morus Alba Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin Conditioning
Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract
Skin ConditioningCeramide AP
Skin Conditioning
Phytosphingosine
Skin Conditioning
Cholesterol
Emollient
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1
Skin Conditioning
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
Skin Conditioning
Ceramide EOP
Skin Conditioning
CI 14700
Cosmetic ColorantCI 15985
Cosmetic ColorantWater, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Steareth-21, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Steareth-2, Glyceryl Stearate, Polyacrylamide, Butylene Glycol, Alcohol Denat., C13-14 Isoparaffin, Phenoxyethanol, Parfum, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Pentylene Glycol, Ascorbyl Glucoside, Laureth-7, Propylene Glycol, Sodium Benzoate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Hibiscus Abelmoschus Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Retinyl Palmitate, Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Tetrasodium EDTA, Sorbitan Laurate, Polysorbate 20, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Phyllanthus Emblica Fruit Extract, Carbomer, 3-Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid, Calcium Hydroxymethionine, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Dimethylmethoxy Chromanol, Xanthan Gum, Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester, Morus Alba Leaf Extract, Ceramide NP, Lindera Strychnifolia Root Extract, Ceramide AP, Phytosphingosine, Cholesterol, Tocopherol, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Ceramide EOP, CI 14700, CI 15985
Water
Skin ConditioningCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Masking
Glycerin
Humectant
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter
Skin Conditioning
Squalane
Emollient
Coco-Caprylate/Caprate
Emollient
Dicaprylyl Ether
Emollient
Glyceryl Stearate
Emollient
Cetearyl Alcohol
Emollient
Cetearyl Glucoside
Emulsifying
Stearic Acid
Cleansing
Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
CleansingAlcohol Denat.
Antimicrobial
Trehalose
Humectant
Retinal
Skin Conditioning
Vitex Agnus Castus Extract
AstringentLecithin
Emollient
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
Antioxidant
Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3
Skin Protecting
Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract
Astringent
Opuntia Vulgaris Extract
Skin ConditioningTotarol
Antioxidant
Sodium Hyaluronate
Humectant
Carnosine
Skin Conditioning
Ascorbic Acid
Antioxidant
Olea Europaea Fruit Oil
Masking
Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
Emollient
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder
Skin Conditioning
Tocotrienols
Skin Conditioning
Tocopherol
Antioxidant
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil
Skin Conditioning
Fructooligosaccharides
Humectant
Allantoin
Skin Conditioning
Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil
Skin Conditioning
Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract
Perfuming
Lavandula Angustifolia Oil
Masking
Ormenis Multicaulis Oil
Masking
Hamamelis Virginiana Water
Astringent
Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningPolyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate
Emulsifying
Alcohol
Antimicrobial
Elaeis Guineensis Oil
Emollient
Cyclodextrin
AbsorbentPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning
Dextran
Potassium Sorbate
Preservative
Phenethyl Alcohol
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
Emollient
Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate
Citric Acid
Buffering
Xanthan Gum
EmulsifyingWater, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, Squalane, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Glyceryl Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Stearic Acid, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Alcohol Denat., Trehalose, Retinal, Vitex Agnus Castus Extract, Lecithin, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, Caprooyl Tetrapeptide-3, Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, Opuntia Vulgaris Extract, Totarol, Sodium Hyaluronate, Carnosine, Ascorbic Acid, Olea Europaea Fruit Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Tocotrienols, Tocopherol, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil, Fructooligosaccharides, Allantoin, Rubus Chamaemorus Seed Oil, Lonicera Caprifolium Flower Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia Oil, Ormenis Multicaulis Oil, Hamamelis Virginiana Water, Lonicera Japonica Flower Extract, Polyglyceryl-6 Palmitate/Succinate, Alcohol, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Cyclodextrin, Pentylene Glycol, Dextran, Potassium Sorbate, Phenethyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Glycol, Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
Alcohol Denat. is an alcohol with a denaturant property. It is created by mixing ethanol with other additives.
The "denat" part just means "denatured"; common denaturants include Denatonium Benzoate, t-butyl alcohol, and Diethyl Phthalate. This step makes the alcohol undrinkable (and lets brand skip taxes related to beverage alcohol).
This ingredient gets a bad rep because it is irritating and drying due to its astringent property. Astringents draw out natural oils in tissue to constrict pores and dry out your skin.
However, alcohol denat. is not all that bad.
Due to its low molecular weight, alcohol denat. tends to evaporate quickly. One study on pig skin found half of applied alcohol evaporated in 10 seconds and less than 3% stayed on skin.
This also helps other ingredients become better absorbed upon application.
Studies are conflicted about whether this ingredient causes skin dehydration. One study from 2005 found adding emollients to propanol-based sanitizer decreased skin dryness and irritation. Another study found irritation only occurs if your skin is already damaged.
Small amounts of alcohol are generally tolerated by oily skin or people who live in humid environments.
The rule of thumb is this ingredient will probably not affect your skin much if it is near the end of an ingredients list.
One thing to note:
People with ALDH2 (aldehyde dehydrogenase 2) deficiency may experience skin irritation from continued alcohol use. About 8% of the world's population have this deficiency.
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has determined denatured alcohols to be safe for use in concentrations between 0.05% and 12% (depending on which denaturant is used).
Also...
This ingredient has antimicrobial and solvent properties.
The antimicrobial property helps preserve products and increase their shelf life. As a solvent, it helps dissolve other ingredients.
Look for formulas that contain glycerin, hyaluronic acid, or panthenol if you want to offset any drying effect.
This ingredient will trip away your skin's natural oils/lipids that help it lock in moisture. This can worsen dryness, trigger eczema flare-ups, and aggravate rosacea.
Be sure to patch test any product with this ingredient if you have dry or sensitive skin, eczema, or rosacea.
Learn more about Alcohol Denat.This ingredient is also known as shea butter. It is a plant-derived extract from the nuts of the Africa shea tree and one of the most well-studied emollients.
Because it has a high concentration of fatty acids (primarily oleic, stearic, and linoleic) it is able to form a protective barrier on the skin's surface. This helps seal in moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
In vitro research found an increase in skin hydration by 58% and a decrease in TEWL by 37.8% after 24 hours of applying this ingredient (pretty impressive for a single ingredient!).
Besides hydration, shea butter also contains triterpenes that have anti-inflammatory potential. In particule, lupeol cinnamate has shown the highest anti-inflammatory activity in vivo.
Shea butter also contains vitamins A and E which may contribute to antioxidant activity.
While Shea Butter has an SPF rating of about 3-4, it is not a sunscreen replacement.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe because its fatty acids fall within the C11-C24 range that the Malassezia yeast can metabolize.
Learn more about Butyrospermum Parkii ButterCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCetearyl alcohol is a waxy mixture of two fatty alcohols: cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. It is an emollient and emulsifier.
Despite having "alcohol" in its name, it has nothing to do with drying solvent alcohols; the FDA also allows "alcohol-free" products to contain fatty alcohols like this ingredient.
It plays several roles in a formula:
Typical use levels for this ingredient sit around 1-10% and the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has affirmed safety at concentrations up to 25% in leave-on products.
Multiple assessments have found it to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing to most people.
However, there have been some cases of allergic contact dermatitis in patients with chronically compromised skin barriers.
Cetearyl alcohol has a comedogenic rating of 2 and irritancy rating of 1. Both of these numbers come from the 1989 study that used rabbit ears; a "2" means mildly comedogenic and a "1" means low irritancy.
Here's the catch: rabbit skin is more sensitive than human skin and throws a lot of false positives. A 1996 reappraisal found that ingredients rated 1-2 in the rabbit ear tests are generally safe for humans.
Remember comedogenic ratings are unable to assess the entire formula of a product or how it will react on your skin. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure about certain ingredients.
This ingredient is not fungal acne safe. Cetearyl alcohol is a fatty alcohol with chain lengths that fall within the range that Malassezia can metabolize.
A 2019 study has also observed Malassezia growth in the presence of this ingredient, confirming it to be not-fungal acne safe.
Learn more about Cetearyl AlcoholGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinGlyceryl Stearate is made by reacting glycerin with stearic acid (typically sourced from plant oils like palm or coconut). It's an emulsifier, emollient, and mild occlusive.
Emulsifiers help ingredients like oil and water stay mixed so your formula stays nicely blended and uniform in texture.
This ingredient is typically used in concentrations between 1-10%. Studies have found it to be non-sensitizing, non-phototoxic, and non-photoallergenic.
A close cousin of this ingredient is Glyceryl Stearate SE ("self-emulsifying"). This just has a small amount of sodium or potassium stearate added so it can emulsify without a co-emulsifier.
Since this ingredient is an ester of a C18 fatty acid, it may not be fungal acne safe. The Malassezia yeast can potentially metabolize within the C11-C24 range.
Fun fact: The human body also creates Glyceryl Stearate naturally.
Learn more about Glyceryl StearatePentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterXanthan gum is used as a stabilizer and thickener within cosmetic products. It helps give products a sticky, thick feeling - preventing them from being too runny.
On the technical side of things, xanthan gum is a polysaccharide - a combination consisting of multiple sugar molecules bonded together.
Xanthan gum is a pretty common and great ingredient. It is a natural, non-toxic, non-irritating ingredient that is also commonly used in food products.
Learn more about Xanthan Gum
