What's inside
What's inside
Key Ingredients
Benefits
Concerns
Ingredients Side-by-side
Water
Skin ConditioningOnsen-Sui
Dipropylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingCetearyl Alcohol
EmollientCetyl Alcohol
EmollientStearyl Alcohol
EmollientBrassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine
Skin ConditioningBehentrimonium Chloride
PreservativeBehentrimonium Methosulfate
SurfactantParfum
MaskingBehenyl Alcohol
EmollientGlyceryl Stearate
EmollientSteartrimonium Chloride
PreservativeQuaternium-33
Alcohol
AntimicrobialPentylene Glycol
Skin ConditioningPropylene Glycol
HumectantIsopropyl Myristate
EmollientPanthenol
Skin ConditioningPropanediol
SolventZinc Pyrithione
AntiseborrhoeicCitric Acid
BufferingButylene Glycol
HumectantSalicylic Acid
MaskingMenthol
MaskingPolyquaternium-10
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
Skin ConditioningCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientLanolin Acid
CleansingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningDisodium EDTA
Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Cnidium Officinale Rhizome Extract
Skin ConditioningPanax Ginseng Root Extract
EmollientSodium Citrate
BufferingHydrolyzed Soy Protein
HumectantHydrolyzed Keratin
HumectantZinc Chloride
AntimicrobialSorbitol
HumectantBelamcanda Chinensis Root Extract
Skin ConditioningSwertia Japonica Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycerin
HumectantCocos Nucifera Oil
MaskingGardenia Taitensis Flower
Skin ConditioningHydrolyzed Rye Phytoplacenta Extract
Skin ConditioningGlycine
BufferingPaeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract
Skin ProtectingSerine
MaskingGlutamic Acid
HumectantNymphaea Alba Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningSerenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningHibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningAspartic Acid
MaskingLeucine
Skin ConditioningFagraea Berteroana Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningCananga Odorata Flower Extract
PerfumingAlanine
MaskingLysine
Skin ConditioningArginine
MaskingTyrosine
MaskingPhenylalanine
MaskingUrea
BufferingLecithin
EmollientPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingThreonine
Proline
Skin ConditioningValine
MaskingIsoleucine
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningHistidine
HumectantMethionine
Skin ConditioningCysteine
AntioxidantCysteic Acid
Skin ConditioningSodium Succinate
BufferingPlumeria Alba Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningPlumeria Rubra Flower Extract
Skin ConditioningBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicTocopherol
AntioxidantWater, Onsen-Sui, Dipropylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Stearyl Alcohol, Brassicamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Behentrimonium Chloride, Behentrimonium Methosulfate, Parfum, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Steartrimonium Chloride, Quaternium-33, Alcohol, Pentylene Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl Myristate, Panthenol, Propanediol, Zinc Pyrithione, Citric Acid, Butylene Glycol, Salicylic Acid, Menthol, Polyquaternium-10, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Caprylyl Glycol, Lanolin Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Disodium EDTA, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cnidium Officinale Rhizome Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Sodium Citrate, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydrolyzed Keratin, Zinc Chloride, Sorbitol, Belamcanda Chinensis Root Extract, Swertia Japonica Extract, Glycerin, Cocos Nucifera Oil, Gardenia Taitensis Flower, Hydrolyzed Rye Phytoplacenta Extract, Glycine, Paeonia Suffruticosa Root Extract, Serine, Glutamic Acid, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Aspartic Acid, Leucine, Fagraea Berteroana Flower Extract, Cananga Odorata Flower Extract, Alanine, Lysine, Arginine, Tyrosine, Phenylalanine, Urea, Lecithin, Polysorbate 80, Threonine, Proline, Valine, Isoleucine, 1,2-Hexanediol, Ceramide NP, Histidine, Methionine, Cysteine, Cysteic Acid, Sodium Succinate, Plumeria Alba Flower Extract, Plumeria Rubra Flower Extract, Biotin, Tocopherol
Water
Skin ConditioningStearyl Alcohol
EmollientDipropylene Glycol
HumectantCetyl Alcohol
EmollientSorbitol
HumectantStearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
EmulsifyingIsoamyl Laurate
EmollientAlcohol
AntimicrobialParfum
MaskingCaprylyl Glycol
EmollientAspartic Acid
MaskingEthylhexylglycerin
Skin ConditioningMenthol
MaskingSalicylic Acid
MaskingPanthenol
Skin ConditioningHexyl Cinnamal
PerfumingGlycerin
HumectantGlycine Soja Seed Extract
Skin ConditioningCaffeine
Skin ConditioningPentylene Glycol
Skin Conditioning1,2-Hexanediol
Skin ConditioningButylene Glycol
HumectantCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride
MaskingOctanediol
Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningLecithin
EmollientPolysorbate 80
EmulsifyingTocopherol
AntioxidantCeramide NP
Skin ConditioningBiotin
AntiseborrhoeicHydrolyzed Collagen
EmollientPrunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil
MaskingSimmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil
EmollientMoringa Oleifera Seed Oil
EmollientOnsen-Sui
Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil
EmollientCandida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment
AntimicrobialAcorus Calamus Root Extract
PerfumingHippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract
Skin ConditioningLactobacillus Ferment
Skin ConditioningCurcuma Longa Root Extract
AntioxidantCentella Asiatica Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningChamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract
Skin ConditioningMethylpropanediol
SolventMaltodextrin
AbsorbentAloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract
EmollientDioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Skin ConditioningWater, Stearyl Alcohol, Dipropylene Glycol, Cetyl Alcohol, Sorbitol, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Isoamyl Laurate, Alcohol, Parfum, Caprylyl Glycol, Aspartic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Menthol, Salicylic Acid, Panthenol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Glycerin, Glycine Soja Seed Extract, Caffeine, Pentylene Glycol, 1,2-Hexanediol, Butylene Glycol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Octanediol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Lecithin, Polysorbate 80, Tocopherol, Ceramide NP, Biotin, Hydrolyzed Collagen, Prunus Armeniaca Kernel Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Moringa Oleifera Seed Oil, Onsen-Sui, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Candida Bombicola/Glucose/Methyl Rapeseedate Ferment, Acorus Calamus Root Extract, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract, Lactobacillus Ferment, Curcuma Longa Root Extract, Centella Asiatica Leaf Extract, Chamaecyparis Obtusa Leaf Extract, Methylpropanediol, Maltodextrin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Dioscorea Japonica Root Extract
Ingredients Explained
These ingredients are found in both products.
Ingredients higher up in an ingredient list are typically present in a larger amount.
1,2-Hexanediol is a synthetic liquid and another multi-functional powerhouse.
It is a:
- Humectant, drawing moisture into the skin
- Emollient, helping to soften skin
- Solvent, dispersing and stabilizing formulas
- Preservative booster, enhancing the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives
This ingredient is also called ethanol or ethyl alcohol. It is denatured, meaning made undrinkable for cosmetic use.
In formulas, it:
Is it bad for your skin?
The answer comes down to concentration. Patch and wash studies have found highly concentrated alcohol-based hand rubs (60-100%) cause less barrier disruption than washing with a basic detergent like SLS. The only measurable effect in these studies was a temporary dip in skin hydration.
Concentrations below 12-15% in leave-on cosmetics is generally well-tolerated. Concentrations above start to see increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and reduced hydration.
In concentrations about 58%, it creates temporary channels in your skin's lipid layers to become more permeable and allow other ingredients to slip through easily.
This ingredient can be up to 80% of the formula in alcohol-based perfumes.
Overall, this ingredient is probably harmless if found lower down an ingredients list but worth side-eyeing if it's high up (especially if your barrier is already struggling).
Alcohol can worsen dry skin, eczema, and oily skin, especially at higher concentrations. This is because it can increase transepidermal water loss and decrease hydration to disrupt the skin barrier.
According to the National Rosacea Society based in the US, you should be mindful of products with these alcohols in the top half of ingredients.
True allergic contact dermatitis to ethanol is uncommon, but be sure to patch test if you have dry or sensitive skin.
Learn more about AlcoholAspartic Acid is an amino acid that our bodies produce naturally. It is an antioxidant.
Our body uses Aspartic Acid to help build collagen and elastin. It also plays a role in hydrating skin.
Biotin is a B vitamin that is naturally produced by our bodies. It is also called Vitamin H.
Our bodies use biotin in the metabolism process. It also helps our bodies use enzymes and move nutrients around. A biotin deficiency can lead to brittle hair and nails.
More research is needed on applying biotin topically. However, taking biotin orally has been shown to help nourish the skin, hair, and nails. They play a role in forming skin-hydrating fatty acids.
Biotin is water-soluble. It can be found in foods such as fish, eggs, dairy, nuts, and meat. Vitamin H stands for "haar" and "haut". These are the German words for hair and skin.
Learn more about BiotinButylene Glycol (or BG) is used within cosmetic products for a few different reasons:
Overall, Butylene Glycol is a safe and well-rounded ingredient that works well with other ingredients.
Though this ingredient works well with most skin types, some people with sensitive skin may experience a reaction such as allergic rashes, closed comedones, or itchiness.
Learn more about Butylene GlycolCaprylic/Capric Triglyceride (aka MCT Oil) is a lightweight emollient, solvent, and texture enhancer. It is considered a skin-softener by helping to prevent moisture loss.
Though it behaves like an oil, it is not technically one due to its chemical composition. One perk of this ingredient is that it is very stable, resistant to oxidation, and unlikely to go rancid.
In practice, that translates to a long shelf life and a consistently elegant skin feel.
While there is an assumption Caprylic Triglyceride can clog pores due to it being derived from coconut oil, there is no research supporting this. Just patch test if you have concerns.
Fractionated coconut oil and MCT Oil are both listed as Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride according to INCI. This is because INCI names are based on the ingredient’s final chemical composition and not its marketing name or source.
This ingredient is treated as the gold standard fungal acne safe oil. Even though it is coconut derived, the problematic lauric acid is stripped out.
This leaves just caprylic (C8) and capric (C10) acid. These chain lengths actually trend antifungal; a 2020 study found caprylic acid was enough to disrupt Malassezia furfur cell membrane, with a caprylic acid derivative damaging membrane structures at concentrations as low as 0.2%.
Learn more about Caprylic/Capric TriglycerideCaprylyl Glycol is a humectant, skin conditioner, emollient, and preservative booster derived from either caprylic acid or synthetically created.
Typical use levels vary from 0.3-1% as a preservative booster and go up to 2% to condition skin.
Because it is not a free-fatty acid, this ingredient is fungal acne safe (there's nothing for Malassezia to feed on).
Learn more about Caprylyl GlycolCeramide NP (formerly known as Ceramide 3) is one of the skin's naturally occurring lipids.
Since ceramides are the major lipid components of the skin, they are crucial for maintaining skin barrier and hydration. Ceramide NP most closely mirrors the dominant kind in human skin amongst ceramide subtypes.
This ceramide works by slotting into gaps within the stratum corneum's lipid matrix to limit trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and shield the skin against external irritants.
A study with 312 patients found that using a ceramide-containing routine for 4 weeks reduced the severity of atopic dermatitis by over 61%.
Another clinical study in subjects aged 60 and older found that a ceramide body wash and moisturizer improved skin dryness and itchy skin in 15 days.
Overall, ceramides are considered non-irritating and safety tests have found little to no observable adverse effects from using this ingredient.
Ceramide NP is usually sourced from plants (like soybean or rice bran), or produced synthetically.
Learn more about Ceramide NPCetyl Alcohol is a fatty alcohol. Fatty Alcohols are most often used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Its main roles are:
Though it has "alcohol" in the name, it is not related to denatured alcohol or ethyl alcohol.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Cetyl AlcoholDipropylene Glycol is a synthetically created humectant, stabilizer, and solvent.
This ingredient helps:
Dipropylene glycol is technically an alcohol, but it belongs to the glycol family (often considered part of the ‘good’ alcohols). This means it is hydrating and gentle on skin unlike drying solvent alcohols like denatured alcohol.
As a masking agent, Dipropylene Glycol can be used to cover the smell of other ingredients. However, it does not have a scent.
Studies show Dipropylene Glycol is considered safe to use in skincare.
Learn more about Dipropylene GlycolEthylhexylglycerin is created from glycerin. It is a multitasker ingredient that:
The CIR Expert Panel found minimal skin absorption or sensitization of any kind in a safety assessment. Though this ingredient is considered well-tolerated, a small number of cases of allergic dermatitis have been published since 2002. Just be sure to patch test if you are unsure.
Industry-reported use ranges from 8% in rinse-off products and 2% in leave-on formulations.
Learn more about EthylhexylglycerinGlycerin (or glycerol) is a compound naturally found in your skin. It's a powerhouse humectant that pulls water into the stratum corneum.
Topically, glycerin does several things at once:
Your skin makes glycerin on its own (mostly from sebaceous oil breakdown) and shuttles it to your outermost layer of skin, or your epidermis, via aquaporin-3.
Aquaporin-3 is a transporter that is essential for normal skin hydration, elasticity, and repair. Interestingly, mice lacking in AQP3 have dry and less elastic skin that can be fully corrected with glycerin.
This ingredient is non-irritating, plays well with almost every ingredient, and works across all skin types. Typical use is anywhere between 3-10% but can go up to 79% in some leave-on products.
Just know very high concentrations (>40%) can feel tacky in low humidity.
Glycerin is the name for this ingredient in American English. British English uses Glycerol/Glycerine.
Learn more about GlycerinLecithin is a term for a group of substances found in the cell membranes of plants, animals, and humans. They are made up of phospholipids.
Thanks to its amphiphilic structure (water-loving head and oil-loving tail), it is a true multitasker:
It plays well with most ingredients and is typically used at 0.1-1%. However, concentrations up to 50% have been reported in moisturizers.
Learn more about LecithinMenthol is a compound found in mint plants, such as peppermint. In its pure form, it is a clear crystalline substance.
Menthol is known for its cooling sensation; however, the cooling is actually from your skin being sensitized. Menthol can worsen rosacea. We recommend speaking with a professional if you have concerns.
Menthol also has antimicrobial properties.
Learn more about MentholPanthenol is a common ingredient that helps hydrate and soothe the skin. It is found naturally in our skin and hair.
There are two forms of panthenol: D and L.
D-panthenol is also known as dexpanthenol. Most cosmetics use dexpanthenol or a mixture of D and L-panthenol.
Panthenol is famous due to its ability to go deeper into the skin's layers. Using this ingredient has numerous pros (and no cons):
Like hyaluronic acid, panthenol is a humectant. Humectants are able to bind and hold large amounts of water to keep skin hydrated.
This ingredient works well for wound healing. It works by increasing tissue in the wound and helps close open wounds.
Once oxidized, panthenol converts to pantothenic acid. Panthothenic acid is found in all living cells.
This ingredient is also referred to as pro-vitamin B5.
Learn more about PanthenolParfum is a catch-all term for an ingredient or more that is used to give a scent to products.
Also called "fragrance", this ingredient can be a blend of hundreds of chemicals or plant oils. This means every product with "fragrance" or "parfum" in the ingredients list is a different mixture.
For instance, Habanolide is a proprietary trade name for a specific aroma chemical. When used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics, most aroma chemicals fall under the broad labeling category of “FRAGRANCE” or “PARFUM” according to EU and US regulations.
The term 'parfum' or 'fragrance' is not regulated in many countries. In many cases, it is up to the brand to define this term.
For instance, many brands choose to label themselves as "fragrance-free" because they are not using synthetic fragrances. However, their products may still contain ingredients such as essential oils that are considered a fragrance by INCI standards.
One example is Calendula flower extract. Calendula is an essential oil that still imparts a scent or 'fragrance'.
Depending on the blend, the ingredients in the mixture can cause allergies and sensitivities on the skin. Some ingredients that are known EU allergens include linalool and citronellol.
Parfum can also be used to mask or cover an unpleasant scent.
The bottom line is: not all fragrances/parfum/ingredients are created equally. If you are worried about fragrances, we recommend taking a closer look at an ingredient. And of course, we always recommend speaking with a professional.
Learn more about ParfumPentylene Glycol (1,2-pentanediol) is a multitasking little diol with three main roles in a formula:
Research on alkanediols (the family pentylene glycol belongs to) show they work by disrupting microbial cell membranes. This disruption helps the primary preservative system in a product work more effectively at lower doses.
On the safety side, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel has concluded this ingredient to be safe as used in current cosmetic practices + concentrations.
Typical use levels in a formula run about 1-5%.
Learn more about Pentylene GlycolPolysorbate 80 is a synthetic surfactant and emulsifier derived from sorbitol and oleic acid.
It reduces the surface tension between oil and water phases to help them stay mixed and stable in a formulation. In other words, it prevents your formulas from separating into an oily mess.
The CIR Expert Panel has evaluated the scientific data and found this ingredient to be safe, non-irritating, and non-sensitizing at concentrations up to 5% (it's even approved by the FDA as an OTC eye drop ingredient).
Learn more about Polysorbate 80Salicylic Acid (also known as beta hydroxy acid or BHA) is a well-known ingredient for treating skin that struggles with acne and clogged pores. It exfoliates both the skin's surface and deep within the pores to help clear out buildup, control oil, and reduce inflammation.
Unlike AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids), salicylic acid is oil-soluble. This allows it to penetrate into pores which makes it especially effective for treating blackheads and preventing future breakouts.
Salicylic acid is also known for its soothing properties. It has a similar structure to aspirin and can calm inflamed or irritated skin, making it a good option for acne-prone skin that is also sensitive.
Concentrations of 0.5-2% are recognized by the U.S. FDA as an over-the-counter topical acne product.
It can cause irritation and/or dryness if one's skin already has a compromised moisture barrier, so it's best to focus on repairing that before introducing this ingredient into your routine.
While salicylic acid does not increase sun sensitivity, it’s still important to wear sunscreen daily to protect your skin.
If you are looking for the ingredient called BHA or Butylated Hydroxyanisole, click here.
Learn more about Salicylic AcidSerenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract can be good for oily skin.
Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol. It is a hydrating and moisturizing agent created from the reduction process of glucose.
Most sorbitol is usually made from potato starch. It is also found in fruits such as apples and pears.
As a humectant, Sorbitol helps draw water to the skin. This helps keep the skin hydrated. Sorbitol also helps create a thicker texture in products. You might find sorbitol in your toothpaste and other gels.
It is a non-irritating ingredient that is great for those with dry skin.
Sorbitol is a prebiotic. It helps promote the growth of healthy bacteria on your skin. The bacteria on your skin form a microbiome. This microbiome helps protect your skin from infection and harmful bacteria.
Learn more about SorbitolStearyl Alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol from stearic acid. It is a white, waxy compound used to emulsify ingredients used as an emollient or to thicken a product.
Emollients help soothe and hydrate the skin by trapping moisture.
Fatty alcohols are usually derived from natural fats and oils and therefore do not have the same drying or irritating effect as solvent (ethanol) alcohols.
The FDA allows products labeled "alcohol-free" to have fatty alcohols.
This ingredient may not be fungal acne safe. It is a primary fatty alcohol with a chain length above 12 carbons. A study from 2019 show Malassezia can feed on fatty alcohols in this range, so it may trigger fungal acne in those prone to it.
Learn more about Stearyl AlcoholTocopherol is a fat-soluble antioxidant known as Vitamin E.
You'll find this ingredient in the vast majority of skincare (for good reason). It works to neutralize free radicals, or unstable molecules generated by UV exposure, pollution, and other environmental stressors, before they can cause oxidative damage to your skin cells.
Topically applied tocopherol has been shown to protect against UV damage by ramping up the skin's own natural defense enzymes.
It also acts as a skin conditioning agent; some studies show that regular topical use can improve the skin's water-binding capacity over 2-4 weeks.
This ingredient is especially loved for being a team player. When combined with Vitamin C, the photoprotective effect of both ingredients roughly doubles and the combo also helps reduce UV-induced DNA damage.
This ingredient has some brightening potential but it's more of a prevention ingredient than spot-fader. Cell studies show it can slow down melanin production but it's worth noting that it's not the most powerful brightener out there.
In formulations, it also serves as a stabilizer that helps protect other oxidation-prone ingredients from degrading.
Concentrations usually range from 0.1-1% in most leave-on products.
Learn more about TocopherolWater. It's the most common cosmetic ingredient of all. You'll usually see it at the top of ingredient lists, meaning that it makes up the largest part of the product.
So why is it so popular? Water most often acts as a solvent - this means that it helps dissolve other ingredients into the formulation.
You'll also recognize water as that liquid we all need to stay alive. If you see this, drink a glass of water. Remember to stay hydrated!
Learn more about WaterAlso known as Japanese Hot Spring water. It's reported to exhibit anti-inflammatory effects and promote blood vessel dilation.